- Jun 24, 2004
- 2,280
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My jetted tub's heater has not worked since I moved into my house 3 years ago. I've poked around with troubleshooting before and mostly narrowed it down to the high limit switch*, which is sort of a run-away circuit control device that protects the system from getting the water too hot or just running non-stop by itself. I bypassed this device temporarily and the heater popped on when I turned it on. 240v at the heating elements, and I tested the water temp and it was going up.
The switch was a big pain to remove as the electronics module it was attached to was very close to a stud in the wall on the opposite side of the screws. The smallest screw driver I had barely fit into the top screw. I do not have right angle drivers on hand so for the bottom screw I had to insert a driver bit then use my vice grips to loosen the screw (lol).
So I get the switch out and google the part numbers...nothing helpful. I was just going to order another one. So I decided to rip apart the switch itself. Once I did this I saw how the thing actually worked physically. Basically the switch stays closed until it gets too hot, at which point the temp probe thingy will push open the connection as it gets warmer. The "pin" of this temp probe was not seated correctly it appeared, nor was the connection actually closed just at room temp.
I stuck the probe in ~120 degree water which i measured with my meat probe and hand calibrated it close ish to that value. 120 is the stock calibration. There is simply a square bit drivable spring to physically adjust the calibration. So a bit of trial and error there.
It is reinstalled now and I can't wait to melt my flesh in my tub. It is a pretty big tub and it often drains me of all my hot water when I fill it.
*
Other troubleshooting:
Ohm rating of heating elements tested okay at 8-9. Voltage at input good at 220-240v. Thermometer tested successfully closed and open where appropriate. Switch tested open w/ empty tub, should be closed.
The switch was a big pain to remove as the electronics module it was attached to was very close to a stud in the wall on the opposite side of the screws. The smallest screw driver I had barely fit into the top screw. I do not have right angle drivers on hand so for the bottom screw I had to insert a driver bit then use my vice grips to loosen the screw (lol).
So I get the switch out and google the part numbers...nothing helpful. I was just going to order another one. So I decided to rip apart the switch itself. Once I did this I saw how the thing actually worked physically. Basically the switch stays closed until it gets too hot, at which point the temp probe thingy will push open the connection as it gets warmer. The "pin" of this temp probe was not seated correctly it appeared, nor was the connection actually closed just at room temp.
I stuck the probe in ~120 degree water which i measured with my meat probe and hand calibrated it close ish to that value. 120 is the stock calibration. There is simply a square bit drivable spring to physically adjust the calibration. So a bit of trial and error there.
It is reinstalled now and I can't wait to melt my flesh in my tub. It is a pretty big tub and it often drains me of all my hot water when I fill it.
*
Other troubleshooting:
Ohm rating of heating elements tested okay at 8-9. Voltage at input good at 220-240v. Thermometer tested successfully closed and open where appropriate. Switch tested open w/ empty tub, should be closed.
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