Fitting a Corsair H70 in a CM 690ii Adv (with Asus P6X58D-E)

[Triggaaar]

Corsair H70
Cooler Master 690ii Advanced
Asus P6X58D-E

I'm trying to build a new system with the above, and I forsee trouble with airflow. The case has great reviews, and for the size seems like the perfect choice for me. But despite having 8 120mm+ fan mounts (on the outside of the case), there's only one position that will fit the H70 with the motherboard I have (top rear). In this position it would seem appropriate to set the H70 to exhaust (against Corsair's recommendations), but the airflow of the case does become a bit of a mess.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to setup this sytem (maybe I should modify one of the other fan mounts)? Is there a reason why I shouldn't set it all up and let it drag smoke through the case to get a better idea of how well the air is circulating?

Thanks

 

[Kenmitch]

With good airflow in the case you should be fine exhausting thru the rad. At most you'll get a couple degree penalty if any at all.

 

[Triggaaar]

Thanks for the reply. Achieving good airflow dpesn't seem to be straightforward though.

Has anyone tried different combinations with this case/cooler combo?

 

[billyb0b]

Thanks for the reply. Achieving good airflow dpesn't seem to be straightforward though.

Has anyone tried different combinations with this case/cooler combo?

put another fan on the h70... do a push/pull exhausting outside

 

[Petey!]

put another fan on the h70... do a push/pull exhausting outside

they come with 2 fans.

 

[Petey!]

Thanks for the reply. Achieving good airflow dpesn't seem to be straightforward though.

Has anyone tried different combinations with this case/cooler combo?

2 exhaust fans up top, 1 on the back, throw an intake in the side, bottom and front. Should be fine airflow wise.

 

[Triggaaar]

Thank you for the suggestions.

2 exhaust fans up top, 1 on the back, throw an intake in the side, bottom and front. Should be fine airflow wise.

That's what I thought, but the problems are:

The side top fan position can't be used, because it would hit the H70
The the top rear position is also half covered by the H70 - I'm also concerned about using this position as an exhaust, as it will compete with the H70 for air (the 2 fans will be almost touching, adjacent to each other).

Using the side bottom fan as an intake will put cool air onto the Graphics Card, but that (now warm) air would be used by the H70. So I'd like to try the side bottom fan as an exhaust, getting rid of the hot air from the GC.

If I can get enough air in at the bottom and front, there would still be enough cool airfor the H70. I think I will mod an intake fan to fit in the 5.25" drive bays.

Ideally I'd like a chunck of air in 1 side, and all out the other side - nice, clean and simple airflow. I don't think I can do that, which will presumably mean air spinning inside in places, but I don't think I have a choice.

 

[Kenmitch]

So I'd like to try the side bottom fan as an exhaust, getting rid of the hot air from the GC.

Hot air rises so unless you put a very high flow fan I doubt it would work like you wanted.

If it was me I'd just mount the H70 in the upper rear as exhaust and see what the temps are like. Put as many fans as you can mount intake on the low ones and exhaust on the upper ones. I think your making it more complicated than need be. The more airflow your case has the cooler the air inside your case will be. Dont worry about the heat unless you know it's gonna be a problem....But without trying you may just be stressing over something trivial like 2-3 degrees anyways.

 

[Triggaaar]

I think your making it more complicated than need be.

Thanks, that's why I started the thread - I felt I'd need help.

Hot air rises so unless you put a very high flow fan I doubt it would work like you wanted.

This is a funny one - I'm aware that hot air rises, but how relevant is that when the air is being blown about? When a single fan can move over 100 cfm (obv less with resistance) then the entire air content of the case should be emptied every second. But I assume experienced people here have put that to the test?

If it was me I'd just mount the H70 in the upper rear as exhaust and see what the temps are like. Put as many fans as you can mount intake on the low ones and exhaust on the upper ones.

Thanks, I'll do that. I'll hopefully get the chance to experiment with a couple of the fans too, once I get going.

But without trying you may just be stressing over something trivial like 2-3 degrees anyways.

I'm not stressing too much, I'd just like to set it up as best as possible first time. One thing I do not want to do, is re-seat the pump - I want to fit it, and leave it.

Thanks

 

[Kenmitch]

This is a funny one - I'm aware that hot air rises, but how relevant is that when the air is being blown about? When a single fan can move over 100 cfm (obv less with resistance) then the entire air content of the case should be emptied every second. But I assume experienced people here have put that to the test?

Exactly why I don't think you'll have a problem unless you play around with the intake vs exhaust ratio. With good airflow the inside of your case will be pretty close to ambient temperature of your room.

I'm not stressing too much, I'd just like to set it up as best as possible first time. One thing I do not want to do, is re-seat the pump - I want to fit it, and leave it.

I wouldn't worry about that. You said the Rad will only fit one place so I'd see no need to remove the pump/block even if you feel the need to play around with the fans later.

So anyways what CPU are you gonna be running? Are you gonna overclock it?
What GPU(s) are you gonna be using?

 

[Triggaaar]

Exactly why I don't think you'll have a problem unless you play around with the intake vs exhaust ratio. With good airflow the inside of your case will be pretty close to ambient temperature of your room.

Thanks

I wouldn't worry about that. You said the Rad will only fit one place so I'd see no need to remove the pump/block even if you feel the need to play around with the fans later.

Yep, fan position is decided - I think it could go in the top with a little modding, but since the consenses is that the rear is a perfectly fine position, that's where it's going and staying. I do intend to swap the fans though, as the Scythe GTs weren't in stock, so I'll be starting with the Corsair kit fans. One of the only reasons it could move is if I tried to add a shroud, I'll check that out today.

So anyways what CPU are you gonna be running? Are you gonna overclock it?

i7-930 I've never overclocked before, but since I'm building a new case with nice fans, I think it would be insulting not to 🙂 I would like to set it up so I can switch between overclocking and standard, depending on what work I'm doing - it depends how the overclocking goes, but I'd like to keep the vcore down to help the cpu lifespan.

What GPU(s) are you gonna be using?

I'm going to start be destroying all with the devastating power of my GeForce 6600GT. Oh yes, be prepared.

The machine is mainly for photo processing, and won't make use of fancy graphics cards. I will be changing this card to something more modern when a game I'm after comes out, but if I can use my GT6600 until then, I will. My plans for removing GC heat are only for when I do upgrade the card, I don't think there's much to worry about until then.

 

[Petey!]

You should be able to use both side fans, and I'd say both as intake. The rad should fit in the back spot, although you may need to run a fan outside the case in that scenario. It'd definitely fit in the rear top spot. If you really wanted to see if it makes a difference you could make the rear spot into an intake to feed fresh air right into the push fan of the H70. or mount the rad in the front top spot to be close to the cooler intake air.

 

[Triggaaar]

First stage complete - PC built, switched on, and Win 7 loaded.

The H70 is fitted to the rear, top, and is only 5 or 10mm from the case left side, so I'd only get a fan in that position is I mounted it externally.

I can easily add a shroud on the internal most fan, as it doesn't move the radiator. To add a shroud on the other side, I could move the fan outside the back of the case - trying to keep it all inside might mess with the pump and pipes.

I intend to get going as it is, and take some temperatures before I get the new fans etc.

Is there particular software that's recommended to watch temps, or just what came with the MB (Asus Probe II)?

 

[Kenmitch]

First stage complete - PC built, switched on, and Win 7 loaded.

Nothing like pushing the button for the first time 🙂

The H70 is fitted to the rear, top, and is only 5 or 10mm from the case left side, so I'd only get a fan in that position is I mounted it externally.

Most likely the fans on the H70 will be drawing air thru the opening anyways if it's pretty close. External fan would kinda ugly up the case.

Is there particular software that's recommended to watch temps, or just what came with the MB (Asus Probe II)?

You could use RealTemp if you don't like the Asus Probe http://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/SysInfo/Real_Temp/

Once you get her broken in a little you can start the real fun....Playing with your first overclock 🙂

Just do some reading and look at a couple of guides and you should be fine. Unless your gonna go for something exteme you should be able to just leave the energy effecient items like speedstep, C1E, etc. enabled still. Then you'd have no need to switch between overclocked and not. Figure around 3.5ghz should be a giveme without much struggle.

 

[Triggaaar]

Nothing like pushing the button for the first time 🙂

The first time it was trying to boot off an HDD, and complained that the case was open - 2nd time I changed the boot to the DVD drive, and all fine since. It's quite surprising it works with all the things that can go wrong. I've no idea how tight I was supposed to fit the H70 (manual just says 'don't over-tighten'. Well obviously. Don't under-tighten either, but what's just right.

Most likely the fans on the H70 will be drawing air thru the opening anyways if it's pretty close. External fan would kinda ugly up the case.

Yes and yes 🙂

You could use RealTemp if you don't like the Asus Probe http://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/SysInfo/Real_Temp/

I have no preference, whatever works.

Just do some reading and look at a couple of guides and you should be fine. Unless your gonna go for something exteme you should be able to just leave the energy effecient items like speedstep, C1E, etc. enabled still. Then you'd have no need to switch between overclocked and not. Figure around 3.5ghz should be a giveme without much struggle.

Yeah loads of reading. I was thinking of about 3.8GHz, but it depends on voltages. I don't even know what speedstep or C1E are. I've now got to check out the utilities that came with the Asus MB, I don't know what I need.

 

[Kenmitch]

I don't even know what speedstep or C1E are.

In a nutshell they allow the CPU to throttle speed and voltages on demand.

I'll use my CPU as an example to give you an idea of how it works. For example if I overclock my CPU to 4ghz and have C1E and SpeedStep enabled when CPU is at idle it runs at 1.7ghz with a vcore of 1.07v but when CPU is fully loaded it jumps up to 4ghz with a vcore of 1.34v and will fluctuate in between depending on load. If I disable C1E my chip sits at 4ghz with a vcore of 1.34v at all times. Alot of guides will suggest to disable these features but most of the time it's not needed unless your going for some insane overclock.