----- First time car owner, am I getting ripped on new brakes ?? Advice

[thatsright]

I have a 2000 Maxima SE. Both Front and Rear brakes are rotors. I definitely need to replace the front Rotors and Pads, flush brake line. Thinking maybe to also get rear brakes replaced, or at the very least new pads.

I live in Boston, MA and this being my first car, no idea how much this might run me. Best case scenario I would replace just the front rotors and pads. Worst case, both axels with new pads and new rotors (NOT resanded rotors).

Local shop wants $250 just for front axle. Is this about right, or am I getting ripped.

Thoughts. Anything could help me out. Thanks guys!

 

[sao123]

Originally posted by: thatsright
I have a 2000 Maxima SE. Both Front and Rear brakes are rotors. I definitely need to replace the front Rotors and Pads, flush brake line. Thinking maybe to also get rear brakes replaced, or at the very least new pads.

I live in Boston, MA and this being my first car, no idea how much this might run me. Best case scenario I would replace just the front rotors and pads. Worst case, both axels with new pads and new rotors (NOT resanded rotors).

Local shop wants $250 just for front axle. Is this about right, or am I getting ripped.

Thoughts. Anything could help me out. Thanks guys!

if you dont do the work yourself, you are getting ripped.

 

[sonoma1993]

probably sound about right, depending on the the rotors. A single rotor can cost anywhere from $30 to $100+. And same for the pads, they can cost anywhere from $20 to $100+. They rest is in labor charges.

 

[bctbct]

If the rotors can be turned there is no reason to buy new ones.

 

[thatsright]

Originally posted by: bctbct
If the rotors can be turned there is no reason to buy new ones.

I don't trust em.

The 2000 Maxima has a knows issue with the rotors. Uneven wear causes Braking 'judder.' The whole steering colum vibrates when braking. Even if that wasn't a issue, I'd prob still get new ones. On the other hand, I'd be open to resrufacing the rears if its still safe.

 

[thatsright]

Originally posted by: sao123

Originally posted by: thatsright
I have a 2000 Maxima SE. Both Front and Rear brakes are rotors. I definitely need to replace the front Rotors and Pads, flush brake line. Thinking maybe to also get rear brakes replaced, or at the very least new pads.

I live in Boston, MA and this being my first car, no idea how much this might run me. Best case scenario I would replace just the front rotors and pads. Worst case, both axels with new pads and new rotors (NOT resanded rotors).

Local shop wants $250 just for front axle. Is this about right, or am I getting ripped.

Thoughts. Anything could help me out. Thanks guys!

if you dont do the work yourself, you are getting ripped.

I don't have the equipment to do this properly, or time. I know more about cars than the average person (I guess.....), but taking apart brakes is not one of them.

The only thing I'm concerned about is what kind of rotors the place will put on. Ceramics is the way to go, so I'll ask. I don't need anything exotic.

 

[SearchMaster]

Originally posted by: thatsright

Originally posted by: bctbct
If the rotors can be turned there is no reason to buy new ones.

I don't trust em.

The 2000 Maxima has a knows issue with the rotors. Uneven wear causes Braking 'judder.' The whole steering colum vibrates when braking. Even if that wasn't a issue, I'd prob still get new ones. On the other hand, I'd be open to resrufacing the rears if its still safe.

I had that problem with my 2000 Maxima until the rotors were replaced. Man, what a difference it made. I don't recall exactly how much it cost to get all 4 done but $250 per axle sounds about right.

 

[thatsright]

And, how often do you guys change your pads, rotors? Just trying to get and idea of how often I will be doing this. If you have a 2000-03 maxima, let me know especialy.

 

[radioouman]

Do it yourself. I have a Chrysler Sebring convertible, and I just replaced all four rotors and brake pads, and it cost me $120 for all of the parts.

And why do you think that you need your brake lines flushed?

 

[Viperoni]

Originally posted by: radioouman
Do it yourself. I have a Chrysler Sebring convertible, and I just replaced all four rotors and brake pads, and it cost me $120 for all of the parts.

And why do you think that you need your brake lines flushed?

Because after 7 years, there's plenty of water inside the brake fluid.


Definetely get ceramic pads, they're worth it for any kind of spirited driving. However, for absolutely normal driving, semi-metallic's are fine.

 

[Amused]

Originally posted by: radioouman
Do it yourself. I have a Chrysler Sebring convertible, and I just replaced all four rotors and brake pads, and it cost me $120 for all of the parts.

What would it have cost if you needed to buy all the tools?

 

[funboy6942]

Why do you feel you need to get your system flushed?
I have never flushed any of my brake systems unless then developed a leak. It is a sealed system otherwise, and only being 7 years old that fluid should never be replace. IMO when you start to open they system up and bleeding it your asking for trouble, wasting your money, and highly doubt the mechanics even do the flush at all.

 

[AMCRambler]

I bought my Contour when it was four years old and the rotors were pretty dished. Took it to see if I could get it resurfaced but it was too thin. So I want to say four years on the rotors.
Pads should be more frequently, although I put new pads on when I did the rotors they're still in pretty good shape. Just checked them this weekend and I've probably got another 3,000 miles left on them. So the pads have lasted about 2 years.

 

[deerslayer]

Parts for my 98 Cavalier were pretty cheap. I think it cost me around $50 for the rotors and pads.

Tools needed: wrench to take the tire off, allen wrench for the caliper, and a hammer to get the rotor loose.

Skill level: trained monkey.

If you don't have the tools or the time, $250 probably isn't unreasonable in the area you live in. I would certainly never pay anyone $250 to put rotors and pads on my car, but that's just me.

 

[mercanucaribe]

Just brakes charges $100 for labor, pads, machining, front and rear. I know because I just called to make an appointment. The dealer said 2-3 hours of labor, and that's not including machining etc.

 

[d3n]

Weekend before last I did the fronts on my 04 Sienna. The costs of a good set of dustless pads was about $70 online.

The costs to do drilled rear rotors and good pads all around on my v40 was about $160 online.

The fluid looked good so no flush on ether car.

I went to auto zone and put a deposit on a tool kit, got some wheel hub grease and some break pad lube and took care of it in one afternoon for both cars.

I expect that it would have been close to $800 to do the same with a mechanic. $1000 with a fluid flush.

 

[funboy6942]

Originally posted by: mercanucaribe
Just brakes charges $100 for labor, pads, machining, front and rear. I know because I just called to make an appointment. The dealer said 2-3 hours of labor, and that's not including machining etc.

This you would think would be incentive enough to learn how to do brakes on your own cars. For most parts places they will turn a rotor and either not charge anything at all if you buy the parts from them, or as low as $10 per rotor vs $75 per hour shop time.

Brakes, especially front rotors, are the easiest to change on a car IMO, and requires nothing more then the removal of your tire, 2 bolts, push the caliper back in, put the new pads on, slap on the new rotor, and reinstall the 2 bolts and the tires, pump the pedal, and your done. To do the fronts and swap out a set of rotors will be 30 minutes at max, unless you have friends over, beer, and a tv in the garage then a couple hours.

Shops take advantage of the mechanically disadvantaged and charge 1-2 hours for 30 minutes worth of work and upsell you on brake line flushes and other non needed services you just dont need.

Then you make threads on how you got screwed. If your tired of being screwed take control, learn, do it yourself, the money and satisfaction you will get from it will be a rush bigger then any drug.

In most cases most work on your own car can be done with a cheap, but good, $100 craftmens tool set from Sears, and a Chiltons or Haynes auto manual from any parts store. It will pay for itself the first time you do your own work.

But you can lead a horse to water, cant force it to drink it. In the time you wasted waiting for a tow truck, at the dealership getting the car signed up, at the waiting area or waiting for a ride, the ride home, the ride back to the shop, the wait to pay for the repairs, then the ride back home, you could of done the job yourself and had a lot more time left over if you sit and think of all the time you waste still having someone else do it for you, and then you paid them to do it to boot. So your out not only for the repairs but what ever your time is worth to you running around so they can do the work for you as well

 

[boomerang]

Originally posted by: funboy42
Why do you feel you need to get your system flushed?
I have never flushed any of my brake systems unless then developed a leak. It is a sealed system otherwise, and only being 7 years old that fluid should never be replace. IMO when you start to open they system up and bleeding it your asking for trouble, wasting your money, and highly doubt the mechanics even do the flush at all.

Why does normally clear brake fluid turn black? You're giving really, really bad advice based on what, a feeling? Wait until you see the cost to replace an ABS unit because you didn't flush your brake fluid.

 

[nakedfrog]

I don't think you're getting ripped. It might be a little on the high side, but I don't know how much your parts cost.

 

[d3n]

Originally posted by: boomerang

Originally posted by: funboy42
Why do you feel you need to get your system flushed?
I have never flushed any of my brake systems unless then developed a leak. It is a sealed system otherwise, and only being 7 years old that fluid should never be replace. IMO when you start to open they system up and bleeding it your asking for trouble, wasting your money, and highly doubt the mechanics even do the flush at all.

Why does normally clear brake fluid turn black? You're giving really, really bad advice based on what, a feeling? Wait until you see the cost to replace an ABS unit because you didn't flush your brake fluid.

I agree this is bad advice. Break fluid heats up and pulls in moisture, you need it flushed. I'd say on average every 30-50k depending on how its looking. Otherwise it will make the fluid into a corrosive and rust your break system from the inside out. It should be an amber color, at least in my DOT4 cars.

Bleeding by means of mashing on the pedal to remove the fluid is also not something to do on todays ABS cars. It just pumps crap and junk into the master cylinder. Gravity drip or a power vacuum is the way to go for this. There are a lot of 'classic' processes that mechanics do in general auto repair shops that can cause you some problems down the road. Thats why I don't knock dealerships pricing for doing anything I can't do myself.

 

[Tobolo]

Originally posted by: thatsright
I have a 2000 Maxima SE. Both Front and Rear brakes are rotors. I definitely need to replace the front Rotors and Pads, flush brake line. Thinking maybe to also get rear brakes replaced, or at the very least new pads.

I live in Boston, MA and this being my first car, no idea how much this might run me. Best case scenario I would replace just the front rotors and pads. Worst case, both axels with new pads and new rotors (NOT resanded rotors).

Local shop wants $250 just for front axle. Is this about right, or am I getting ripped.

Thoughts. Anything could help me out. Thanks guys!

Are you guys screwing with me?!?!?!? If you pay $250 for a front axle replacement they better at least cuddle with you afterwards. They probably wont call you like they say they will though.

 

[Tobolo]

If you have a screw driver then all you need is a large pair of sunken pliers to compress the hydraulic pump on the caliper.

 

[imported_Baloo]

Originally posted by: thatsright


I don't have the equipment to do this properly, or time. I know more about cars than the average person (I guess.....), but taking apart brakes is not one of them.

The only thing I'm concerned about is what kind of rotors the place will put on. Ceramics is the way to go, so I'll ask. I don't need anything exotic.

Tools needed, pliers, flat head screwdriver, wrench, large c-clamp. Let the shop do it this time, but buy the tools and a book for next time.

Oh, and they don't make ceramic rotors.

 

[mercanucaribe]

Originally posted by: funboy42

Originally posted by: mercanucaribe
Just brakes charges $100 for labor, pads, machining, front and rear. I know because I just called to make an appointment. The dealer said 2-3 hours of labor, and that's not including machining etc.

This you would think would be incentive enough to learn how to do brakes on your own cars. For most parts places they will turn a rotor and either not charge anything at all if you buy the parts from them, or as low as $10 per rotor vs $75 per hour shop time.

Brakes, especially front rotors, are the easiest to change on a car IMO, and requires nothing more then the removal of your tire, 2 bolts, push the caliper back in, put the new pads on, slap on the new rotor, and reinstall the 2 bolts and the tires, pump the pedal, and your done. To do the fronts and swap out a set of rotors will be 30 minutes at max, unless you have friends over, beer, and a tv in the garage then a couple hours.

Shops take advantage of the mechanically disadvantaged and charge 1-2 hours for 30 minutes worth of work and upsell you on brake line flushes and other non needed services you just dont need.

Then you make threads on how you got screwed. If your tired of being screwed take control, learn, do it yourself, the money and satisfaction you will get from it will be a rush bigger then any drug.

In most cases most work on your own car can be done with a cheap, but good, $100 craftmens tool set from Sears, and a Chiltons or Haynes auto manual from any parts store. It will pay for itself the first time you do your own work.

But you can lead a horse to water, cant force it to drink it. In the time you wasted waiting for a tow truck, at the dealership getting the car signed up, at the waiting area or waiting for a ride, the ride home, the ride back to the shop, the wait to pay for the repairs, then the ride back home, you could of done the job yourself and had a lot more time left over if you sit and think of all the time you waste still having someone else do it for you, and then you paid them to do it to boot. So your out not only for the repairs but what ever your time is worth to you running around so they can do the work for you as well

Mopar front brake pads for my Jeep are $94! More than the rotors ($70)!

 

[d3n]

Originally posted by: Tobolo
If you have a screw driver then all you need is a large pair of sunken pliers to compress the hydraulic pump on the caliper.

I have been able to do this do this by hand by taking my time. Its a different story if you need to rotate the piston as its retracted.