Fan grill that allows for greatest air flow

[JBS]

I need some 120mm and 140mm-sized fan grills, and I'd like to get the ones that allow for the greatest amount of air flow (least amount of blockage of air). I'm guessing that either the circle wire grills or the Hex-mesh (Hex modders mesh) would be best (allow for the greatest air flow), but I'm not sure.

What grill would be best for maximum air flow (least amount of air blockage), circle wire, hex-mesh, some other type, or maybe something custom?

 

[EarthwormJim]

Circle wire has the best balance between exhaust ratio and air velocity.

 

[Nickel020]

Take a look at this:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=209801

 

[WoodButcher]

Circle wire has the best balance between exhaust ratio and air velocity.

This will also give you the least noise. I cut out any case grill and use nothing unless the fan is in a position to have wire, cable or waterline that may interfere with operation of the fan. On the front, top or side where you may not want to see the fan and choose to use a mesh grill for aesthetics keep a space between the grill and fan. Use an old fan of the same size with the guts removed as a shroud for best results.

 

[JBS]

Take a look at this:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=209801

That link was a huge help, thanks. But I just wish a circle wire grill was included in the tests (I didn't see it included), so I could see how restrictive it is compared to the others (out of those tested, the hex mesh is the least restrictive, but I wonder how it would compare to the circle wire grill).

 

[0roo0roo]

i simply don't use any.
its easier to j ust blast the heatsinks with a can of air every couple weeks. anything that catches dust will rapidly degrade in performance as it fills up, adding a pain in the ass chore to your routine.

 

[EarthwormJim]

That link was a huge help, thanks. But I just wish a circle wire grill was included in the tests (I didn't see it included), so I could see how restrictive it is compared to the others (out of those tested, the hex mesh is the least restrictive, but I wonder how it would compare to the circle wire grill).

http://www.silverstonetek.com/tech/wh_chessis.php?area

 

[JBS]

http://www.silverstonetek.com/tech/wh_chessis.php?area

wow, thanks again. Wire grills still look like they perform the best (of all grills), but I didn't know they were that restrictive (only lets 71% of air through).

 

[0roo0roo]

wow, thanks again. Wire grills still look like they perform the best (of all grills), but I didn't know they were that restrictive (only lets 71% of air through).

i wonder how the numbers scale though at different rpms. maybe at lower rpms the ability to fight the resistence is a lot less?

 

[EarthwormJim]

wow, thanks again. Wire grills still look like they perform the best (of all grills), but I didn't know they were that restrictive (only lets 71% of air through).

It could depend on whether the fan is sucking air through, or blowing air through the grill. Silverstone doesn't really document their testing methods either, and they don't list the RPM of the fan or it's actual open air performance, just relative numbers.

I can attest that on my Lian Li case, wire fan grills are significantly quieter than the included mesh grills. Noise is wasted air, either the air is being slowed down significantly or being blocked.

Modders mesh might be the exception though.

 

[ehume]

The best grill is no grill. You may not even need a rear exhaust fan (see this).

 

[JBS]

The best grill is no grill. You may not even need a rear exhaust fan (see this).

I know, but I'd like some kind of grill for protective purposes (for two top exhaust fans). That study you did is neat (only having the heatsink fans running). My case is somewhat similar (CM Centurion 590) - it has two top exhaust holes, two side panel holes, and a meshed front. Right now I have my heatsink blowing upwards/horizontal (OCZ Vendetta 2) with two top exhaust fans right over it blowing air up and out vertically (for a negative pressure setup).

Also, your fan testings (65 fans on a Megahalems) are excellent, and I've been following your thread on other websites. If I could ask, I'd like to put a new fan on my heatsink, and I can't decide between a Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm, or a Sanyo Denki medium speed fan (9G1212M101). The San Ace medium speed seems to have better specs (77cfm, 32db, 4.0mmH2O pressure) than the GT (59cfm, 28 db, ~3mmH20 pressure), but from your tests, it looks like the GT performed better on the heatsink (the GT produced much lower noise than the SA at similar temperatures and rpms).

Between a San Ace 9G1212M101 and a GT 1850rpm, which one would you choose for your heatsink? thanks and sorry for the ramble.

 

[ehume]

Between a San Ace 9G1212M101 and a GT 1850rpm, which one would you choose for your heatsink? thanks and sorry for the ramble.

On my own rig (I'll update my sig when I get to it) I have a Noctua NH-D14 with a P14 in the middle and two 1450 rpm Gentle Typhoons (AP-14's) as push-pull.

As for your Vendetta 2, it looks like you're stuck with a single fan. Since it is pointing its output up you should not try to use a sleeve bearing fan. That leaves the Ultra Kaze 2000 out.

If you are handy with a soldering iron or with crimping small pins, the 9G1212M101 would be fine. If you want a fan you can just plug in and use, the Panaflo medium would be a better fan.

 

[EarthwormJim]

I know, but I'd like some kind of grill for protective purposes (for two top exhaust fans). That study you did is neat (only having the heatsink fans running). My case is somewhat similar (CM Centurion 590) - it has two top exhaust holes, two side panel holes, and a meshed front. Right now I have my heatsink blowing upwards/horizontal (OCZ Vendetta 2) with two top exhaust fans right over it blowing air up and out vertically (for a negative pressure setup).

Also, your fan testings (65 fans on a Megahalems) are excellent, and I've been following your thread on other websites. If I could ask, I'd like to put a new fan on my heatsink, and I can't decide between a Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm, or a Sanyo Denki medium speed fan (9G1212M101). The San Ace medium speed seems to have better specs (77cfm, 32db, 4.0mmH2O pressure) than the GT (59cfm, 28 db, ~3mmH20 pressure), but from your tests, it looks like the GT performed better on the heatsink (the GT produced much lower noise than the SA at similar temperatures and rpms).

Between a San Ace 9G1212M101 and a GT 1850rpm, which one would you choose for your heatsink? thanks and sorry for the ramble.

38mm fans have a larger dead zone in the center, so if you have room you might want to make a shroud (hollowed out 25mm fan).

Because of the large dead zone, that's also how a fan like a GT can be competitive with a San Ace. Add a shroud though and there's a fair difference.

Regardless, if you're after low noise, a 38mm is not your answer. They emit an annoying whirring sound at low voltages. Even if they measure at the same dB level as a GT, the tone is annoying.

My Chenbro 5 in 3 hard drive rack came with a sanyo denki 38mm (80mm diameter though) fan. I had to immediately swap it out, even undervolted it was a serious distraction.

 

[JBS]

On my own rig (I'll update my sig when I get to it) I have a Noctua NH-D14 with a P14 in the middle and two 1450 rpm Gentle Typhoons (AP-14's) as push-pull.

As for your Vendetta 2, it looks like you're stuck with a single fan. Since it is pointing its output up you should not try to use a sleeve bearing fan. That leaves the Ultra Kaze 2000 out.

If you are handy with a soldering iron or with crimping small pins, the 9G1212M101 would be fine. If you want a fan you can just plug in and use, the Panaflo medium would be a better fan.

But you feel the Sanyo Denki 9G1212M101 would be better than a GT1850rpm as a single fan for the heatsink (better performance per db)? I think I've narrowed my choice to those two, and I'd like to go with the fan that gives the better performance at the same db level (when they each put out 'x' decibels, this fan would perform better (SA-91212M101 or GT1850rpm)). thanks again btw

 

[JBS]

38mm fans have a larger dead zone in the center, so if you have room you might want to make a shroud (hollowed out 25mm fan).

Because of the large dead zone, that's also how a fan like a GT can be competitive with a San Ace. Add a shroud though and there's a fair difference.

Regardless, if you're after low noise, a 38mm is not your answer. They emit an annoying whirring sound at low voltages. Even if they measure at the same dB level as a GT, the tone is annoying.

My Chenbro 5 in 3 hard drive rack came with a sanyo denki 38mm (80mm diameter though) fan. I had to immediately swap it out, even undervolted it was a serious distraction.

thanks again, that's a huge help in my decision. I plan on undervolting the fan and I prefer a lower/more pleasant noise set up, even if it means a few degrees rise in temperature. Do you know if the GT has a large dead zone in the middle? It has a fairly large hub, so I'm guessing there might be a dead spot.

About the shroud, wouldn't there maybe be an increase in temps, since the fan would be further away from the heatsink (because of the shroud in between), and the air flow might be weaker when it hits the heatsink (since the fan is further away to begin with)?

 

[ehume]

Shrouds tend to work or not, but with a 38mm fan a shroud will not detract from cooling performance. Try one and see.

The point I want to make about all the fans from Newark and other industrial suppliers of San Ace fans: the fans come with bare wires, not plugs or other terminals.

 

[EarthwormJim]

thanks again, that's a huge help in my decision. I plan on undervolting the fan and I prefer a lower/more pleasant noise set up, even if it means a few degrees rise in temperature. Do you know if the GT has a large dead zone in the middle? It has a fairly large hub, so I'm guessing there might be a dead spot.

About the shroud, wouldn't there maybe be an increase in temps, since the fan would be further away from the heatsink (because of the shroud in between), and the air flow might be weaker when it hits the heatsink (since the fan is further away to begin with)?

Shrouds eliminate the deadzone. If the shroud is still short enough, the increased distance isn't that important. Any detriments to air flow that the increased distance creates, is more than made up for by eliminating the large dead zone of a fan.

Ideally a shroud is airtight, so there shouldn't be any loss of flow anyway. Of course when the shroud becomes deeper, then it does start to negatively impact air performance.

There is a sweet region of depth. Around 28mm I think is optimal, which coincidentally is basically the depth of most fans.

Check this link out: http://martin.skinneelabs.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html

Shrouds can let you get push/pull like (but not quite) performance with only one fan running.