Failed XP unlocking attempt

[DT4K]

Well, I tried to unlock my XP last night. I used crazy glue to fill the pits, and that wasn't too hard. I was using the conductive paint from a rear window defogger repair kit to try to connect the contacts.

No matter what I tried, I just could not get the contacts connected without the paint spreading and getting on other contacts.

I tried to mask with scotch tape, but no matter how I tried it, the paint kept spreading under the tape.

Has anyone else had problems with this method or is it just me?

Is there something else I can use that is easier to work with? The conductive paint was always either too thick or too thin. I think I need a microscope, not just a magnifying glass.

I would like to try again, but I don't know, maybe I will just stick with fsb overclocking.

 

[Blieb]

damn, I saw this crap all over the place yesterday ...

search for an athlon XP overclocking kit ... bout $12, you get the ingredients and a cookie cutter sheet ...

 

[Crucial]

I used scotch tape and it worked just fine. Did you make sure you pressed down the edge? I had no bleeding problems at all. before I used scotch tape I would just use a needle. It took a little longer but it worked well.

 

[DT4K]

What did you use as a conductor. The problem with that paint, was that I couldn't get any to go on with the needle. I would dip the needle in the paint and then try to put it on and it seemed too thin. I couldn't get enough to stick to the needle. Then if I let it thicken a little, as soon as I put it on the needle, it would start to clump and I couldn't get it to spread between contacts.

Yes, I pressed the edges of the tape down. The problem was that pieces of tape were overlapping each other creating gaps under them. But I think the main problem is that that defogger repair paint is just not a good consistency to work with.

I ended up with some super glue covering a couple of the L1's. Anyone know what to use to remove super glue without damaging my chip?

If I can get it off, maybe I will start over with one of the unlocking kits. I thought conductive paint would be better since it would be more permanent. But now I'm thinking it would be easier with conductive grease since you can just wipe it off if you screw it up.

 

[chuonthis]

<< What did you use as a conductor. The problem with that paint, was that I couldn't get any to go on with the needle. I would dip the needle in the paint and then try to put it on and it seemed too thin. I couldn't get enough to stick to the needle. Then if I let it thicken a little, as soon as I put it on the needle, it would start to clump and I couldn't get it to spread between contacts. >>

Don't use a needle...before I unlocked my cpu, I was like "Whoa, those L1 bridges sure must be small but they're not that bad...use a toothpick instead or something thicker. A needle doesn't do anything.


<< I ended up with some super glue covering a couple of the L1's. Anyone know what to use to remove super glue without damaging my chip? >>

Acetone will the do the trick of removing anything off the cpu without damaging it (I think =P). I had to redo mine because I only got whole number multipliers the first time and I just used acetone (nail polish remover) to rub it everything off with a q-tip and it was fine. Took the superglue and defogger stuff right off. The defogger repair kit should be fine for your conductive material, everyone's using it. Where'd you get yours? Is it the one from Pepboys? I got mine there and it works. =)

 

[Crucial]

I used the defogger repair kit. It was thin but I eventually figured out a technique for applying it with the needle. I never thought of using a toothpick. I think it was the fact that I had none till about 2 weeks ago. I moved in to my recent place in November and hadn't bought any yet.

 

[Kuroyama]

Definitely use the toothpick. If the ink is too thick then you can wipe the toothpick on the edge of the bottle and if it's too thin then don't wipe it. I've unlocked an XP & Duron with toothpicks and had no trouble.

 

[IndyJaws]

If you want something easy, you can try this unlocking kit from Highspeedpc.com. It'll run you about $12.

 

[DT4K]

<< The defogger repair kit should be fine for your conductive material, everyone's using it. Where'd you get yours? Is it the one from Pepboys? I got mine there and it works. =) >>



I used the Permatex Quick Grid stuff.

For those of you who used defogger repair, when connecting L1's, were you able to leave all the L1's unmasked and paint them one at a time without crossing?

Or did you have to mask off everything except the pair you were painting?
If you had to mask everything except the pair, did you have a problem with the tape pulling off the paint on the ones you had already done?

I'm going to clean everything off with acetone and try again. I am now determined to get this thing unlocked. I will try a toothpick this time instead of the needle. And if it still doesn't work, I may try that unlocking kit.

 

[Crucial]

I used to do them with no masking. This last time I masked the undone pairs and left the finished ones untaped. I didn't want to pull off the existing paint. It made it a little easier but not much. The next time I think I will try a toothpick and no masking. It doesnt take much paint to make the connection.

Earlier someone asked how to remove excess glue from the pits. I used the edge of my swiss army knife blade to shave the extra off. You cant even tell there were pits there now. The tip of the blade works great to shave off any extra glue and to smooth out the surface. Also shows any low spots in the pits.

 

[Assimilator1]

A toothpick! ,now why didn't I think of that!?

,I'm definatly going to give it another go

My last attempt had no effect what so ever!:|