Question Extending an ethernet cable due to renovations

[Botswana]

Hey All -

So I will be doing some home renovations soon (closing in loft to make it a bedroom) The current wall that has the Ethernet outlet will become a closet. As such, I want to move where the Ethernet outlet is to another wall, which is also where the computers/switch will be set up. Problem is, there is likely (almost certainly) not enough slack in the Ethernet cord to take it an extra 15-20 feet+. I really don't want to have to fish a new wire from the router downstairs in a closet to the upstairs. Is there a way I can extend the cable...like do they make two sided female rj45 connectors that are just a signal pass through that are okay being in a wall? I certainly want no latency/connection problems. I can leave a blank outlet cover where it would be just incase I need to access in the future. I am running FIOS 100/100 internet at the moment.

Is the only solution to run a new cable? Can I leave the port where it is, connect a switch, then run a cable from the switch up through the attic to the new wall? I know that's not ideal, but I don't really want to tear down any walls or mess with sheetrock on walls that are not already being effected by the renovations.

 

[mxnerd]

Not sure what you really want/need. But here is the RJ45 Coupler

https://www.amazon.com/Coupler-Ethernet-Extension-Network-Connectors/dp/B07CZGCZPM

==

Well, actually you either have to
1. plug in a long (flat one exists) Ethernet patch cable, drill a hole and pull it out of the closet, or
2. add outlet on another side of the walls. in which case you have to fish the line.
3. use a switch as you said.

Don't think RJ45 coupler can help.

 

[VirtualLarry]

What about the option, to leave that jack where it is, essentially, even if it does end up in the back of someone's closet (Could still be useful for a few things), and just fish a new whole line (or two!), to the new jack location in the other room? Thus having two (or three!) ethernet jacks, when you're done? Seems like a better longer-term result, even if it is more effort.

That said, Mesh wifi is making leaps and strides.

 

[Botswana]

What about the option, to leave that jack where it is, essentially, even if it does end up in the back of someone's closet (Could still be useful for a few things), and just fish a new whole line (or two!), to the new jack location in the other room? Thus having two (or three!) ethernet jacks, when you're done? Seems like a better longer-term result, even if it is more effort.

That said, Mesh wifi is making leaps and strides.

Fishing a line without pulling one out would be pretty difficult. Fishing a line at all will be difficult. Given the setup. I don't understand why a coupler wouldn't work. The cables terminate into a coupler at the wall plate. Would having two couplers on one like really be that much worse than one?

 

[mxnerd]

Fishing a line without pulling one out would be pretty difficult. Fishing a line at all will be difficult. Given the setup. I don't understand why a coupler wouldn't work. The cables terminate into a coupler at the wall plate. Would having two couplers on one like really be that much worse than one?

You did not mention that you have a coupler type termination (like the ones Monoprice sells) at the wall plate, most setups don't use coupler type wall jacks. If your's setup did, then of course you can use a coupler to extend it out of the closet.

Monoprice 8P8C RJ45 Cat5e Inline Coupler Type Keystone Jack, White - Monoprice.com

Easy to use coupler style keystones allow you to use RJ45 terminated cables in the front and the back eliminating the need to splice wires while standing behind a rack. You can use pre-terminated fix

www.monoprice.com

Monoprice 8P8C RJ45 Cat6 Inline Coupler Type Keystone Jack, White - Monoprice.com

Easy to use coupler style keystones allow you to use RJ45 terminated cables in the front and the back eliminating the need to splice wires while standing behind a rack. You can use pre-terminated fix

www.monoprice.com

 

[Botswana]

You did not mention that you have a coupler type termination (like the ones Monoprice sells) at the wall plate, most setups don't use coupler type wall jacks. If your's setup did, then of course you can use a coupler to extend it out of the closet.

Monoprice 8P8C RJ45 Cat5e Inline Coupler Type Keystone Jack, White - Monoprice.com

Easy to use coupler style keystones allow you to use RJ45 terminated cables in the front and the back eliminating the need to splice wires while standing behind a rack. You can use pre-terminated fix

www.monoprice.com

Monoprice 8P8C RJ45 Cat6 Inline Coupler Type Keystone Jack, White - Monoprice.com

Easy to use coupler style keystones allow you to use RJ45 terminated cables in the front and the back eliminating the need to splice wires while standing behind a rack. You can use pre-terminated fix

www.monoprice.com

Sorry, meant to be more clear. The house was built in 2012. The ethernet, as far as i know, ends in a coupler at the ethernet jack wallplate in each of the rooms we had it run to. Problem is, i need to move that wall plate to another wall since the current one would be buried in a closet. I would remove the current wall plate, put a coupler in (which would be legit inside sheetrock), run the new wire all the way up the wall, into the attic, and then down into one of the new walls ill be building and end it in a coupler wall plate, like i currently have. If the wires ran through the attic itd be easy to fish a line and such, but the router is downstairs in a closet, loft is upstairs and the lines run in the space between the first and second floor, where hvac duct work also runs. I just want to make sure two couplers in one line (and effectively three different ethernet cords before it enters a PC) won't degrade the signal. I do a lot of gaming and such and last thing I'd want is connection/speed problems. I dont really see couplers from reputable companies that dont look chinese. Guess i can pull a current wall plate off and see what brand the installer used.

The other alternative is to keep the current ethernet wall plate where it is..plug an ethernet cord into a switch which would be in the closet, then run an ethernet from the switch back into the wall, up and around, then to a wall plate. That seems like a redneck/bad idea.

 

[VirtualLarry]

Well, you kind of have to look at your "points of failure". Earlier in my life, I had lived with a friend and his wife, and the ethernet from the modem went up to their room, and then from a line to a coupler and into my closet and into my room. I had a couple of PCs there. Well, inevitably, every week, they had to go and re-plug the coupler, as it got a little loose, and I would lose connection. (I don't believe that this was gigabit, only 10/100 ethernet at the time. The Internet connection was probably around 6-10Mbit/sec.)

A switch might be more reliable that a coupler, but of course, that takes a power source too, and generates heat (not that great in an enclosed closet). If it were a managed switch, you could use SNMP and stuff to monitor connections, and possibly initiate remote re-boots.

 

[mxnerd]

I only used coupler in the 100M era once, I never use any coupler since 1Gbps ethernet appears, so I can't say whether the couplers can be used more than one time on a single line.

I can only say if it works, then it works. Whether it's stable enough, it's another story probably will be like what VL has experienced, I have no idea

If you do use coupler, wrap and tighten it up using a tape. The couplers available at Amazon do seem to have good quality.

 

[nOOky]

Hmmm if I understand your dilemma what I would try is running the cable out of the existing jack (either couple the new cable on or splice it ) into the new room where you'll almost certainly have molding (trim). I'd then route the molding out in the back to accept the cable, and run the cable along the molding to the spot on the wall you want it to and than drill through the bottom of the wall behind the molding, and drill where you want the plate and hook the cable up to the wall jack there.

If your molding is stout enough to take a router to the back anyway... I've run cables under molding in the small expansion gap that exists between the floor and the wall that is covered by the bottom trim.

 

[Botswana]

If i run a new cable, what cable should it be? Cat5e? Any benefit or need to run cat6 or some other designation? Remember i use fiber optic with 100mb download and upload and will likely only go higher in future. Also. Should i just use a premade "patch" cable? Prob needs to be 50-75ft or should i run bare wire and crimp rj45 connectors myself. I think i can measure and get a decently accurate measurement of what ill need but i certainly wouldn't want to run it and come up short lol

 

[Eric Fazekas]

I'd do everything I can to put a new wire in for end-to-end continuity. I'd probably see if I could tape the new cable to the old cable and just start pulling from the source with any assistance I could give it along the route. But, if I decided it was nearly impossible my preferences would be

1) put a small switch from the original wire to a new drop cord
2) a patch cable from the original wall jack (as long as it would remain accessible)
3) use a coupler (as long as it would remain accessible)

Under no circumstance would I bury and connection in the wall. When there's a broken link light it would the first thing I will want to check.

 

[Botswana]

I'd do everything I can to put a new wire in for end-to-end continuity. I'd probably see if I could tape the new cable to the old cable and just start pulling from the source with any assistance I could give it along the route. But, if I decided it was nearly impossible my preferences would be

1) put a small switch from the original wire to a new drop cord
2) a patch cable from the original wall jack (as long as it would remain accessible)
3) use a coupler (as long as it would remain accessible)

Under no circumstance would I bury and connection in the wall. When there's a broken link light it would the first thing I will want to check.

I think i found a way to run a while new wire. Just tryikg to decide now what type..cst5e..cat6..etc. and if a premade 50 or 75ft would work.

 

[ch33zw1z]

I think i found a way to run a while new wire. Just tryikg to decide now what type..cst5e..cat6..etc. and if a premade 50 or 75ft would work.

Run cat6 at least, especially if this area will be difficult to access after project completion.

Premade's are good, if you can fit the cable connectors thru all the area's. I would probably run two if your situation to make sure I had a spare, but I tend to overdo stuff

 

[Botswana]

Run cat6 at least, especially if this area will be difficult to access after project completion.

Premade's are good, if you can fit the cable connectors thru all the area's. I would probably run two if your situation to make sure I had a spare, but I tend to overdo stuff

I actually had that very same thought (running 2). The rj45 connectors arent big. I will need to cut away some sheetrock but its in a closet where the router is to run the wire up through the sill plate, from there itll be in the space between 1st and 2nd floor and i have a way from grabbing it and pulling it since i have storage space underneath my staircase that gives me access to the void between first and second floor. Im not as worried about cutting into sheetrock and repairing it in a closest as opposed to a visible painted wall

 

[Micrornd]

So you intend to fish a new cable from where the existing one terminates in a wall plate now, to it's new destination, correct?
And you fished the original cable in yourself, so it's not fastened/stapled anywhere in the wall, right?

If so, here is another way to consider.

What I normally do in a case like this is -
Fish a pull line from (or to) the new destination to the existing wall plate location.
At the other end of the existing cable, cut off the connector and attach/braid the new longer cable to it.
Tape the connection between the 2 cables and do your best to keep it the same size as the rest of the cable.
Using the old cable as a pull line, pull the new cable to the existing location.
Unattach/unbraid the old cable from the new cable.
Then attach your new pull line (that goes to the new location) to the new cable and complete pulling the new cable to it's new location.
Go back and terminate both ends of the new cable.

A fish tape or fish sticks would also make this easier.

 

[KentState]

So you intend to fish a new cable from where the existing one terminates in a wall plate now, to it's new destination, correct?
And you fished the original cable in yourself, so it's not fastened/stapled anywhere in the wall, right?

If so, here is another way to consider.

What I normally do in a case like this is -
Fish a pull line from (or to) the new destination to the existing wall plate location.
At the other end of the existing cable, cut off the connector and attach/braid the new longer cable to it.
Tape the connection between the 2 cables and do your best to keep it the same size as the rest of the cable.
Using the old cable as a pull line, pull the new cable to the existing location.
Unattach/unbraid the old cable from the new cable.
Then attach your new pull line (that goes to the new location) to the new cable and complete pulling the new cable to it's new location.
Go back and terminate both ends of the new cable.

A fish tape or fish sticks would also make this easier.

To that point, I used the older phone and coaxial lines in our house to pull ethernet.

Since the cabling was from 2012, you are probably looking at 5e at the best so take the time to go with something better while you are doing the work. As far as couplers, they work and should not be a problem. A very popular option for modular patch panels and can be had in Cat6.

Monoprice 8P8C RJ45 Cat6 Inline Coupler Type Keystone Jack, Black - Monoprice.com

Easy to use coupler style keystones allow you to use RJ45 terminated cables in the front and the back eliminating the need to splice wires while standing behind a rack. You can use pre-terminated fix

www.monoprice.com