Evga E760 A1 - Northbridge

Nov 26, 2005
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Hello. I have an Evga E760 A1, and I am considering swapping out the Northbridge Heatsink for a different one. Link/Pic Mainly due to my Megahalems HS/F not sitting on my chip in the proper orientation. In order to make it fit I had to install it horizontal. I'm mainly curious if this is sabotaging the heat dissipation, and I'm also considering a better processor cooling solution if there is one. Are there aftermarket Northbridge heatsinks for this board, or would it be better to look into a different CPU heatsink?


Thanks
 

BonzaiDuck

Lifer
Jun 30, 2004
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Hello. I have an Evga E760 A1, and I am considering swapping out the Northbridge Heatsink for a different one. Link/Pic Mainly due to my Megahalems HS/F not sitting on my chip in the proper orientation. In order to make it fit I had to install it horizontal. I'm mainly curious if this is sabotaging the heat dissipation, and I'm also considering a better processor cooling solution if there is one. Are there aftermarket Northbridge heatsinks for this board, or would it be better to look into a different CPU heatsink?


Thanks

I started to write up a "comprehensive" solution to your problem and it grew too long before I realize I'd missed other relevant aspects because of the detail of those I'd explored.

First, leave the orientation of the Megahalems as is.

Second, pick up $5 in foam-art-board of any color. [You could have more tedium using Lexan, which offers "bling."] Usually, a place like Michaels Arts/Crafts has a $5 tube of glue made to work with foam art-board. The "best" is a small bottle you can get at a hobby shop for $15/ounce, but it lasts a long time.

Third, do the measuring to figure out how to design a duct-box between the narrow side of fins at the back and the rear 120/140 exhaust fan.

The side of the box closest and parallel to the motherboard should lie flat -- not angled -- if possible. cut a small rectangle ~ 5/8" x 2" or 2.5" in the bottom of that surface. That's the basic idea in fulfillment. The velocity of air exiting the Megahelems and vented to the exhaust-fan will pull air through the hole, increasing airflow around those Mosfet/VRM heatisinks -- what looks like the custom heatpipe necklace that comes with many high-end boards.

This basically requires the duct-box to pull straight out toward the sidepanel for maintenance. It would have an overlap of as little as 1/4" to rest on the upper, broad side of the heatsink fins.

There are all sorts of elaborate improvements to this idea. You could basically make the duct-box to the exhaust fan a three-sided affair, with the bottom surface -- closest to the motherboard-- as part of a foam-board plate that slides in between the Megahelems pipes -- slots you would cut in a bigger piece, possible more or less square. it could even cover RAM modules if there's enough clearance between the lowest fin of the Megahalems and the DIMMs.

You could add a small fan secured to a hole in this duct-plate for something like a Sunon Mag-Lev 40x25mm fan -- to push air into the crevices between the plate and the motherboard.

But the better and more elaborate the design, the more tedium you invest up-front. You could get a "bigger" idea of what I'm suggesting here by looking at various models of ASUS Sabertooth boards, but the Sabertooth boards don't duct the MEgahelems to the rear fan. And the duct-plate shown for the Sabertooth board covers much more of the board (all of it!) than the extension I described.

I say all this, because the "necklace" heatpipe-and-fin assembly on that motherboard looks to have very good cooling potential. It is custom-made for that board. Anything you get to replace it/them will be a generic heatsink or unit that won't fit as well as the original. So I say -- Leave it alone! Work around it! Work around it to use it!

Just a parting thought. With the horizontal Megahelems, you might want to extend the top-side of the duct over the broad side of the cooler with maybe 1/4" clearance. You could even cover both upper and lower sides that way. Or you could exhaust air from that broad side, while pulling air through the narrow side with the rear exhaust fan. Or you could simply build a duct box for the rear fan to exclusively pull air off the motherboard, while a puller fan on the upper side of the Megahalems pulls air from it to exhaust at a top-panel vent.

But all these considerations affect the simplicity of a ducted solution. Simple is best.
 
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Nov 26, 2005
15,189
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I currently have a 140mm fan resting on top of my GPU, facing towards the NB heatsink and the CPU heatsink. Then I have a 140mm fan on top pulling the air from the fan on the GPU exhausting out the top while another fan exhausts out the back of the case. Seems pretty efficient but I've always been curious if I could get better results with the Megahalems orientated vertically
 

BonzaiDuck

Lifer
Jun 30, 2004
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I currently have a 140mm fan resting on top of my GPU, facing towards the NB heatsink and the CPU heatsink. Then I have a 140mm fan on top pulling the air from the fan on the GPU exhausting out the top while another fan exhausts out the back of the case. Seems pretty efficient but I've always been curious if I could get better results with the Megahalems orientated vertically

Comparing vertical versus horizontal, one needs either a top-panel fan exhausting the horizontal mounting, or a duct-box ported to the rear exhaust fan. In the latter case, there is little appreciable difference between a DUCTED vertical mounting and a DUCTED horizontal mounting. I posted my test and proof of that around 2007.

For the 2007 case, for the horizontal mounting, the duct covered the two broad sides of the cooler in addition to the duct end ported to the exhaust fan.

Ducting makes any directed airflow more efficient, but it also requires an investment in time, effort and tedium -- up-front. Even so, it's a pretty cheap mod to make.

In your case and from your description, there should be plenty of airflow for those two fin assemblies at issue. But you could still wring several degrees C in cooling from them -- with, as I said, the tedious effort.

In parting, I'll say this. For your rig, I might consider at least a couple alternative configurations. If the intake airflow is sufficient, I'd investigate two fans pulling air from two sides of the horizontally-mounted cooler: rear exhaust and top exhaust. For simplicity, though, I'd consider the use of only the rear exhaust fan, and I'd probably block off the top-panel vent after removing any fan from it. I'd extend the duct box to cover at least half the widest dimension of the heat-pipe tower, and I'd pick a beefier rear-exhaust fan. I'd still consider the duct-vent to pull air from the motherboard, or the extension of it to cover more motherboard components.

But it has been my experience that no further effort per what you call the Northbridge heatsink and fins is necessary -- IF -- there is sufficient case intake and a decent amount of pressurized turbulence in the case. The fan blowing down on your GPU provides plenty of cooling for those fins.

You could eliminate that fan, though, with the sort of mods I've described. You could even use a smaller fan instead. For instance, you might want to look at a 92x15mm fan if you can find it. In your case, the 140mm fan over the GPU adds some clutter. In other situations, adding a smaller fan at some strategic position also raises a need to thermally control it to eliminate noise as an unpleasant by-product.

I've got two GTX 970's in SLI. I had initially over-clocked them, but driver-installation problems required me to uninstall Afterburner -- the OC'ing utility. Afterburner also provided custom thermal fan-control for those cards. Now, I think I can reinstall AFterburner, but I was thinking I could build a duct-box or duct-panels for the graphics cards, and put a 92x15mm fan in the mix at the front-most edge of the cards -- blowing air into the box. There are a lot of incidentals, details and complications to that, and obviously the assembly would need to be both solid and easily removed for maintenance.

But the best choices for mods are the simplest. For instance -- the simple duct-box with the slot cut in it to use the Bernoulli Effect to draw air off the motherboard. Better than adding another fan, and as simple as four cuts with an Xacto knife.
 
Nov 26, 2005
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Thanks much for the help and suggestions. If I put the side cover back on I think a duct system would help, how much is to be seen. I guess I can always lower my volts and clock speed to keep things cool in the summer and when the winter comes crank it back up
 

PhIlLy ChEeSe

Senior member
Apr 1, 2013
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Cool!
I just saw on flee bay there selling broke X58 boards for almost $200 lolz! Pass the pipe!