• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Entire house hardwood flooring

Calculation looks right, but you're going to need to add 10-20% for waste.

You get some really short boards, so if you don't want to use those boards you'll want to get 20% extra. If you don't mind using the small boards, 10% should be sufficient. You can also hide them in closets and under your kitchen cabinet (if you're also replacing the cabinets)

Edit: If you're doing the entire house you're presumably doing the stairs, so you have to factor that in.

Edit: Regarding the price - it's cheaper because it's engineered wood and it's only 9/16" thick. Engineered wood isn't really inferior to solid wood - it has its own advantages. It's more dimensionally stable, meaning it won't be significantly affected by changes in temperature and humidity. You won't have to worry about the boards cupping or gaps appearing. On the downside you can only refinish it once or twice.

Hardwood floors don't need to be expensive though. I paid about the same price per sq ft for a 3/4" solid maple floor (3 1/4" wide boards), and I think they look great.
 
you are doing this yourself?

A contractor will do it faster and might be cheaper and a warranty for labour and flooring.
 
Originally posted by: Iron Woode
you are doing this yourself?

A contractor will do it faster and might be cheaper and a warranty for labour and flooring.
Click to expand...

Since the OP has "installation cost" listed, I would assume he/she is having it installed! 😉

I agree with the 10% extra for waste (but wouldn't go higher).

Make sure that whoever is doing is knows what the hell they are doing too! 😛
 
Luckily my house came with hardwood through out 🙂 (and to think they carpeted over all of it)

Anyone know how much refinishing might cost?
 
Originally posted by: BriGy86
Luckily my house came with hardwood through out 🙂 (and to think they carpeted over all of it)

Anyone know how much refinishing might cost?
Click to expand...

Im interested in refinishing too. I dont feel like getting it quoted because I doubt ill do it but a ballpark cost for a 1200sqft house would be nice. The floors are in decent shape already.
 
Originally posted by: BriGy86
Luckily my house came with hardwood through out 🙂 (and to think they carpeted over all of it)

Anyone know how much refinishing might cost?
Click to expand...



Ive heard figures of $2-3 sq ft.
 
And, are you sure you want hardwood everywhere? Will you just use area rugs in the bedrooms, living room, etc?

We put hardwood in every room except the bedrooms. They have top grade carpet. The kitchen, bathrooms, dining room, etc are all wood.
 
I installed 1600 sqf carbonized vertical bamboo 2 years ago for my house, and replaced every stair treads & bull nose with matching bamboo and it look great once finished. However, it didn't take long for the floor to have dents/scratches.

IMHO, it is better to get real hard wood such as Brazilian Cherry, Cumaru, Ipe, Cabreuva, or the like instead of bamboo, because bamboo is much softer than advertised (falsified Janka rating).

[add]
I'm not sure if you have Rona in your area, but the Rona in my locality have Curupay for $5.49 sqf CAD ($4.92 USD).
 
Originally posted by: Safeway
And, are you sure you want hardwood everywhere? Will you just use area rugs in the bedrooms, living room, etc?

We put hardwood in every room except the bedrooms. They have top grade carpet. The kitchen, bathrooms, dining room, etc are all wood.
Click to expand...

Why wouldn't you have tile in the kitchen/bathroom?
 
Originally posted by: Fritzo
Originally posted by: Safeway
And, are you sure you want hardwood everywhere? Will you just use area rugs in the bedrooms, living room, etc?

We put hardwood in every room except the bedrooms. They have top grade carpet. The kitchen, bathrooms, dining room, etc are all wood.
Click to expand...

Why wouldn't you have tile in the kitchen/bathroom?
Click to expand...

You can have hardwood in the kitchen. I have it and it's not a big deal, if you wipe up any spills right away.

I've never seen hardwood in the bathroom, that doesn't really make sense to me...

I did my whole first floor, ~600 sq feet, and paid about $4 per square foot. Also used maple; I needed the light color to brighten the rooms and holy cow do they look great. I can't see paying $4 for engineered wood.

Also, OP, if you do add 10% or 20% for waste/short pieces, make sure you let the contractor know. Many will add the 10% on their own to account for waste.
 
Originally posted by: Newbian
Originally posted by: Engineer
For all you do it yourself people out there, my last project....

Bedroom #1

Bedroom #2

Bedroom #3

Bedroom #4

Bedroom #5


Turned out very nice, but ended in my double hernia surger in April! 🙁
Click to expand...

So in theory the money you saved by doing it yourself ending up being three times as much after the medical bills?
Click to expand...


Probably. One hernia I was born with so that had really nothing to do with it. The 2nd one was "probably" started by the heavy flooring, and was torn open about a year later by a sprint through the neighborhood (I was exercising) and I pulled up when I felt a burn. The hernia appeared that night. I have always assumed it was the flooring that started it, but it could have been something else.

Regardless, I would still do it again (more careful this time though).
 
I recommend gluing the floor down, we had a floating floor and I hated it; it creaked when you walked on it and that drove me nuts. We have a glue down floor now and I love it.

Get the hardest hardwood you can afford, it will resist scratches and dents much much better.
 
Originally posted by: JulesMaximus
I recommend gluing the floor down, we had a floating floor and I hated it; it creaked when you walked on it and that drove me nuts. We have a glue down floor now and I love it.

Get the hardest hardwood you can afford, it will resist scratches and dents much much better.
Click to expand...

Was your floating floor snap together or tongue and groove glue together? I have two floors that are floating tongue and groove glue together and have been installed for nearly 10 years. They do not creak when walked on. (well, the subfloor which I didn't fix when installing #2 does in one spot, but it is clearly the subfloor as it happens both on and off the floating floor in the adjacent room).
 
Originally posted by: Engineer
Originally posted by: JulesMaximus
I recommend gluing the floor down, we had a floating floor and I hated it; it creaked when you walked on it and that drove me nuts. We have a glue down floor now and I love it.

Get the hardest hardwood you can afford, it will resist scratches and dents much much better.
Click to expand...

Was your floating floor snap together or tongue and groove glue together? I have two floors that are floating tongue and groove glue together and have been installed for nearly 10 years. They do not creak when walked on. (well, the subfloor which I didn't fix when installing #2 does in one spot, but it is clearly the subfloor as it happens both on and off the floating floor in the adjacent room).
Click to expand...

Snap together. It was crap and I wouldn't recommend it. Kind of a blessing when one of our water pipes started leaking and got under the flooring warping the crap out of it. 😛
 
Originally posted by: Engineer
Originally posted by: BriGy86
Hear are some pics of mine. The house was built in 1957 and had carpet over them the entire time until now.

Living room 1
Liveing room 2
Click to expand...

Could the spots be sanded off (completely sand the floor?) and the entire floor refinished to make it more uniform?
Click to expand...

That's my plan. The worst part is by the bathroom when the sink over flowed once (not when I owned the house) But those spots look like they could be re-sanded and stained to fix them.

I'm planning on doing the floors last since we need to redo the kitchen and bathroom as well. I figured we wouldn't want all that traffic across newly finished floors.
 
Originally posted by: JulesMaximus
Originally posted by: Engineer
Originally posted by: JulesMaximus
I recommend gluing the floor down, we had a floating floor and I hated it; it creaked when you walked on it and that drove me nuts. We have a glue down floor now and I love it.

Get the hardest hardwood you can afford, it will resist scratches and dents much much better.
Click to expand...

Was your floating floor snap together or tongue and groove glue together? I have two floors that are floating tongue and groove glue together and have been installed for nearly 10 years. They do not creak when walked on. (well, the subfloor which I didn't fix when installing #2 does in one spot, but it is clearly the subfloor as it happens both on and off the floating floor in the adjacent room).
Click to expand...

Snap together. It was crap and I wouldn't recommend it. Kind of a blessing when one of our water pipes started leaking and got under the flooring warping the crap out of it. 😛
Click to expand...

LOL. Yes, I've heard bad things about the snap-lock stuff. I'll use glue together (for floating), glue down or nail down. No snap stuff.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Back
Top