Elegant Way of Linking WBs?

FireBean

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Jun 5, 2011
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Is there an elegant way of linking two universal GPU Water-blocks? Since I have non-reference 6850 boards, and these thing run 24/7 at full load, I'm in need of water cooling them. I already have my CPU in a loop and I got plenty of raditor to handle the extra heat. But I have to use universal WBs. I'm going to use EK's universal Supreme HF WBs, but I don't want to have big looping 5/8" tubing running from each other. Looks tacky to me.

There are two x1 slots between the first and second x16 slots. I'd like to run them in parallel as well. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm not sure if those SLI/Crossfire bridges will work with these.

Thanks for the help peeps!
 

aigomorla

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its very hard to run core only blocks in paralell.

Becuase of how the barb arrangements are.

Your just better off looping it with tubing, or using bitspowr 90's and trying to get the bend up that way.
 

aigomorla

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Swiftech recently announced this:
http://www.swiftech.com/slicrossfirebridge.aspx

It seems like it's exactly what you're looking for.

problem tho is height from barb to barb is not the same with all makers.

Swiftech has one of the highest tops... and even 1 mm off in spacing would ruin it.

This is why u wont see many hard sli bridges. Most of them now are variable because even board makers can be 1 mm off in the spacing of pci-e slots which can throw off hard bridges.
 

EarthwormJim

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problem tho is height from barb to barb is not the same with all makers.

Swiftech has one of the highest tops... and even 1 mm off in spacing would ruin it.

This is why u wont see many hard sli bridges. Most of them now are variable because even board makers can be 1 mm off in the spacing of pci-e slots which can throw off hard bridges.

It uses tubing for the connection, so it has some flexibility.
 

aigomorla

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It uses tubing for the connection, so it has some flexibility.

????

HW-MNFD-DUAL-2P-dimensional-drawing.jpg



i personally would hard pipe the top gpu out and attach a T on both the top inlet and out and try to do a parallel with hard pipes with variable bridges.
 

EarthwormJim

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????

HW-MNFD-DUAL-2P-dimensional-drawing.jpg



i personally would hard pipe the top gpu out and attach a T on both the top inlet and out and try to do a parallel with hard pipes with variable bridges.

What's with the question marks? Have you read about it on swiftech's website?

HW-MNFD-DUAL-2P-example-of-installation.jpg
 

EarthwormJim

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Wow... I never seen these yet. I will order some TODAY! Thanks!

Build log coming!

Just verify that the spacing on the EK blocks you want aren't too far off from the MCW60/80/82.

This is designed around swiftech blocks, even with hosing as the main connection from the manifold to the blocks, it can only accommodate so much.
 
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aigomorla

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What's with the question marks? Have you read about it on swiftech's website?

HW-MNFD-DUAL-2P-example-of-installation.jpg

yes but do you know how ugly that honestly is?

The MCW60 brings the barbs just to the edge of the video card.
Then you got about a 1 inch barb sticking outside... then followed by tubing... then followed by another barb with the sli bridge...

Better yet.. OP, you consider the simple paralell using a Y? and feeding each card out and trying to fan the tubing so it looks good?
ive seen a few people do it that way, and fan the tubings out since they have 2 branching to 4, and it looked really nice.

So the top card would have 90's going up.
the bottom card has 90's going down.

The location of your Y's are behind the card.
You got 2 tubing faning upwards.. and 2 faning downwards... converging behind the card.
 
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EarthwormJim

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yes but do you know how ugly that honestly is?

The MCW60 brings the barbs just to the edge of the video card.
Then you got about a 1 inch barb sticking outside... then followed by tubing... then followed by another barb with the sli bridge...

Better yet.. OP, you consider the simple paralell using a Y? and feeding each card out and trying to fan the tubing so it looks good?
ive seen a few people do it that way, and fan the tubings out since they have 2 branching to 4, and it looked really nice.

So the top card would have 90's going up.
the bottom card has 90's going down.

The location of your Y's are behind the card.
You got 2 tubing faning upwards.. and 2 faning downwards... converging behind the card.


Just seems more expensive to do what you suggested. I'd rather just get a full/partial cover block, they do have one for HD6850's.
 
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EarthwormJim

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the tubing will conpensate because u bend them.

It will work...



But honestly... its not going to look like a fullcard sli bridge as you you'd think.

It won't look like this?

HW-MNFLD-2X-20-INSTALLATION-CLOSEUP.jpg



It's not amazing looking, but if he wanted looked he'd get the heatkiller 6850 block.
 

aigomorla

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It won't look like this?

HW-MNFLD-2X-20-INSTALLATION-CLOSEUP.jpg



It's not amazing looking, but if he wanted looked he'd get the heatkiller 6850 block.

dont get me wrong earthworm....

But ive learned whats in pictures is not always 80% reproducable unles ur using the exact same parts. :biggrin:

And even then you need the exact same cutting tools to get the tubing to work out.

If he was using the MCW60's id say go for it... without batting an eye.
Its the fact he's using EK, and well.... lets say EK is not known for compatibility in accessories.

Which is why they make most of their own accessories.
 

EarthwormJim

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Oct 15, 2003
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dont get me wrong earthworm....

But ive learned whats in pictures is not always 80% reproducable unles ur using the exact same parts. :biggrin:

And even then you need the exact same cutting tools to get the tubing to work out.

If he was using the MCW60's id say go for it... without batting an eye.
Its the fact he's using EK, and well.... lets say EK is not known for compatibility in accessories.

Which is why they make most of their own accessories.

Fair enough, it's a very DIY dependent implementation.
 

FireBean

Junior Member
Jun 5, 2011
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I agree. I got some more picture thanks to Swiftech, and personally, I don't like it. I did a hold of EK and they are making a new top for their block, that will work with their bridges. I just have to wait a couple of weeks.

YAY!
 

aigomorla

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I agree. I got some more picture thanks to Swiftech, and personally, I don't like it.
YAY!

yeah thats exactly what i said when i saw it from a non professional source .. :D
it works... but its very hard to reproduce unless ur using the MCW60's
 

FireBean

Junior Member
Jun 5, 2011
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I cannot use the heat-killer block. I have non-ref boards, and they cut out that digital voltage regulators (at least that what I think they are) and have shortened the pcb. They also moved quite a few peices around as well...

It won't look like this?

HW-MNFLD-2X-20-INSTALLATION-CLOSEUP.jpg



It's not amazing looking, but if he wanted looked he'd get the heatkiller 6850 block.
 

EarthwormJim

Diamond Member
Oct 15, 2003
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I agree. I got some more picture thanks to Swiftech, and personally, I don't like it. I did a hold of EK and they are making a new top for their block, that will work with their bridges. I just have to wait a couple of weeks.

YAY!

Waiting for Ek's new tops would be the most elegant way :thumbsup: