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ECS 755-A2

I have not used one, but every review I have seen of this board indicates it is highly stable and fast. A lot of notebook manufacturers are using the SiS 755 chipset, indicidentally.
 
The notebook makers use the M760 w/ integrated graphics. The 755 is w/o.

The 755-A2 is a solid board, no fuss, no nonsense, no overclocking toys - and no problems. Performance is where it should be.
 
Originally posted by: Peter
The notebook makers use the M760 w/ integrated graphics. The 755 is w/o.

The 755-A2 is a solid board, no fuss, no nonsense, no overclocking toys - and no problems. Performance is where it should be.
Click to expand...


Yup, plus some notebook makers also use the SiS755 w/ATI Mobility Radeons as well, for the more expensive gaming notebook setups.
 
i found a link for a modified bios that gives extra vcore, but none can pass the 232mhz fsb mark 🙁 the agp/pci bus is locked, right?
 
I've had to RMA an ECS 755-A2 from NewEgg because it could not power on (no fan, nothing). While I agree that most ECS boards are fine... I do like the led MB power light on some of the other boards to help troubleshoot. I replaced the board with an ASUS KN8A... everything worked fine.

System specs:
Sempron 2600+ (754)
Asus KN8A
Rosewell 512MB (DDR400)
(I was trying to use Roswell 512MB DDR233 with the ECS due to it's low voltage capability on the mem slot... but it failed on the Asus (though the board spun up the fans so I switched it out with DDR400).
Rosewll Value Case (350W)
MSI Radeon 9550 128MB AGP
Western Digital 40GB IDA133
Sony 52X CDROM
Philips 17"
Windows XP / Office Student

As you can see this was an low cost system for client ($800). By pulling the ECS, I lost my profit margin.

 
The typical reason why an ECS or PC-Chips board appears to be DOA is because people forget to move the "CMOS Clear" jumper to "Normal" position. Unlike other vendors, they ship with this jumper on "Clear" in order to save battery life whilst the boards are still in the box.
 
I had two just blow up on me (just go dead within 48hours) although the third gave me no problems. It's a decent board, the highlight of course being the class leading SiS chipset. The Asrock K8S8X is a better board but it will cost more and I'm not sure you can find it anymore. Bottom line, if you get one that works you'll be quiet pleased as long as you're not looking to do any serious overclocking.
 
I love Sis chipset, i got 735, 748 and I will have the 755-A o 755FX I can't find the Windfast board with the Sis chipset for the K8, Neweeg used to have it...
 
Bar, you didn't have a closer look at what component has popped? This would help figure out whether it's an actual design problem or just DIY failure.
 
Considering nothing changed between mobos 1,2, and 3 and no other mobo (out of the other 4 I've had in the setup ASRock K8S8X (2 of them), Asus K8V SE Deluxe (OMG VIA!!!), Asus K8N-E Deluxe) has exhibited the same problem I lay the fault completely on the door of ECS, as it should be.
 
You might still have shorted something on the ECS board in a location where the others happen to not have something you can short. That isn't unusual, quite easy to do with case mounts, ESD shield flaps, plenty of things inside a PC case actually.

Will you now care to tell us exactly WHAT went pop? "The mainboard" is not a valid answer ...
 
Well, your theory doesn't hold water because the third mobo with the exact same layout worked fine so it's an ECS thing as I said.
 
You've had your three rounds of telling exactly what went. The lack of actual information in your post lets me take it as another FUDsling.
 
The lack of understanding in your posts tells me you are dense. I explained the problem quite clearly. ONE variable changed, THAT'S IT. If that one variable had a problem 2 out of 3 times, then that variable is to blame as the third time there was no problem (not to mention the other four mobos.) It's a really simple analysis. If you can't grasp that I really can't help you.
 
Ah yes, phase 2. Pretend the others are stupid.

Now did you investigate into how exactly those two boards broke or didn't you? If something went pop, a simple visual inspection would have revealed it - and every DIY man would have had a look, at least when the same thing happened a second time.

Now, can you provide factual detail or can't you?
 
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