I'm using an MSI NX8500GT video card in a HTPC setup coupled to a Toshiba 1080p LCD TV. My issue is I can't set the card up to pass 1080p. The nvidia control panel only displays 480p, 720p, and 1080i. I called MSI tech support and they informed me DVI won't pass 1080p resolution. Is this right? If not, does anyone know how to do it? Thanks.
DVI resolution
- Thread starter Da Grump
- Start date
Throckmorton
Lifer
- Aug 23, 2007
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Yes, DVI can go even higher than 1080p on larger LCD monitors. What does your TV say when you display the output from your PC? If you have a Regza, just press the Menu button on the remote then Exit.
I am running XP, so I'll download Powerstrip and give it a shot.
Is there a way to determine what DDC info is being reported to the PC?
Is there a way to determine what DDC info is being reported to the PC?
kylebisme
Diamond Member
- Mar 25, 2000
- 9,396
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I think this should do the trick, though I've never actually tried it with a digtial connection, just analog.
That is only with dual-link DVI, which I highly doubt his TV supports. Single-link is fine for 1080p though.
Definitely. 1920x1200 is the standard resolution for 24" computer monitors, and those run off single link DVI (by using some vertical blanking)
Yeah, it should show as 1920 by 1080 pixels with 32 bit color at 60Hz on Display properties. On my HTPC, although it only shows as a Plug and Play monitor in Display properties, Catalyst Control Center sees the tv as TSB-TV. I can also force it to show 1080i (1920 by 1080 30Hz) as an option. I doubt it is a TV issue if your tv can output 1080p from other sources (HD player or upscaling DVD player). Is it a DVI port on the TV or are you doing DVI-HDMI via adapter?
I don't have another source yet, so I can't confirm that the TV ouputs 1080p (although the data below suggests it doesn't). I'm connecting to one of the HDMI ports on the TV via an HDMI cable and DVI>HDMI adapter on the card.
Here is an excerpt of the data reported by moninfo.exe (thanks, Snowman):
If I'm interpreting this correctly, this TV reports that it supports 480p, 540p, and 1080i. Is this correct?
This is the TV I have:
http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/te...duct.asp?model=42hl196
I would like suggestions on how to proceed from this point. Thanks.
Actually, I am not entirely sure about that model. Cnet says it is a 1080i set but it is being advertised by Toshiba and some resellers as 1080p. I will have to take your observations and a user opinion on Cnet as confirmation that this is indeed a 1080i only TV. I wish could find the user manual for it.
Honestly though, at 42 inches 1080i is good enough for regular HD programming and 1080p won't be much of an upgrade but for PC use, I imagine 30Hz can easily cause eye strain. Try setting it to 720p.
EDIT: After checking in the AVS forums, this set is not 1080p in a true sense that it accepts 1080p input but instead takes in 1080i signal and upconverts to 1080p. So essentially you have to force out a 1080i signal from your PC to let the TV do its funky conversion. Head over to www.avsforum.com for more details.
Honestly though, at 42 inches 1080i is good enough for regular HD programming and 1080p won't be much of an upgrade but for PC use, I imagine 30Hz can easily cause eye strain. Try setting it to 720p.
EDIT: After checking in the AVS forums, this set is not 1080p in a true sense that it accepts 1080p input but instead takes in 1080i signal and upconverts to 1080p. So essentially you have to force out a 1080i signal from your PC to let the TV do its funky conversion. Head over to www.avsforum.com for more details.
As I expected, that manual wasn't so helpful in this case. Had to rely on the AVSforums for an answer to this.
Short answer is, your entire setup is working just fine and it is actually a 1080p resolution that you are seeing on the TV, although it was upconverted by the TV's built in chip.
Your video card is smart enough to know that your TV can only accept up to 1080i signals so that is why your options are limited in the Nvidia control panel. To add to the confusion, your TV on screen display will not tell you that the picture is 1080p because it can only tell your about the incoming signal which is 1080i coming from your video card.
Short answer is, your entire setup is working just fine and it is actually a 1080p resolution that you are seeing on the TV, although it was upconverted by the TV's built in chip.
Your video card is smart enough to know that your TV can only accept up to 1080i signals so that is why your options are limited in the Nvidia control panel. To add to the confusion, your TV on screen display will not tell you that the picture is 1080p because it can only tell your about the incoming signal which is 1080i coming from your video card.
Throckmorton
Lifer
- Aug 23, 2007
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kylebisme
Diamond Member
- Mar 25, 2000
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The "funky conversion" is just deinterlacing, it's what every progressive scan display has to do for interlaced content. That just means each pair of interlaced fields are combined into the progressive frames they were created from. The only drawback with using an interlaced resolution is that they are limited to 30fps, but unless you were hoping to game with better framerate at 1080p, you aren't missing anything by using 1080i.
That would be nice if true. I would like to see this for myself but that is what I have heard from some sites. I am working towards acquiring a dual format HD drive so hopefully it should be soon.
taltamir
Lifer
- Mar 21, 2004
- 13,576
- 6
- 76
TheSnowman and saiga6360 are right... you can't tell the difference and there is no real issue...
Basically the only real difference between 1080i and 1080p is that i runs at 30fps while p runs at 60 fps... there is no noticeable difference unless you are playing a fast paced computer game. Even then your chances of noticing are slim (because it is constant, not a shifting variable)
Basically the only real difference between 1080i and 1080p is that i runs at 30fps while p runs at 60 fps... there is no noticeable difference unless you are playing a fast paced computer game. Even then your chances of noticing are slim (because it is constant, not a shifting variable)
that is VERY incorrect.
The difference between 1080i and 1080p is quite fundamental. 1080i is an interlaced display mode, which means that the screen is drawn in alternating "fields" - where each field is the odd or even lines of the screen. This is done ~60 times per second.
Interlaced scanning is very common - and is standard on NTSC and PAL TV.
The technical reasons behind it are complex, but basically it lets you get 60 pictures per second (59.94 actually), while only "really" using 30 fps of bandwidth. The sacrifice is that in high motion, you don't get as much spatial resolution.
Progressive scanning (1080p) is what we're all accustomed to on PC monitors. The display is refreshed one line at a time, which gives full spatial resolution at all times. 1080p60 is very intense to render and deliver, but most (video) content is actually 1080p24, since films are shot at 24fps.
Interlaced video loses perceived spatail resolution in high motion because each field is 540 lines, so in a worst case scenario (LOTS of movement) you only get 540 lines of resolution for each picture you see. In low motion, the fields blend together nicely, and you can "see" the full 1080 lines, since your eyes are tricked by persistence of vision.
It's very important to realize that interlaced scanning only properly works on interlaced displays! PC monitors, LCDs, DLPs, etc ARE NOT. They are inherently progressive. The only "true" 1080i displays are CRTs. All other displays must deinterlace 1080i to 1080p. This is a very difficult process to do well, and in the worst case scenario can result in literally throwing away half the fields and scaling up 540 lines to 1080. The quality of deinterlacers varies tremendously, and in the best case (with a dedicated hardware processor) you can get great results. Most of the time, it's best to just stick with progressive scan output to a progressive scan display. That's why most of the time 720p > 1080i on most displays.
A lot of TVs are actually 1080p these days. If you see an LCD or other flat panel TV advertising 1080i, that means it's likely a 720p panel that takes 1080i, does a questionable job of deinterlacing it (maybe to even 540p as I said), and then scaling it to 720p.
So, long winded video-nerd technical discussions aside - your best bet when connecting your TV to your PC is to determine what the true native resolution of your TV is, and then output that resolution, or the next best thing.
If your panel is native 720p (not exactly 1280x720, but something very close to it, I forget the funky standard) - then output 720p! If you panel is 1080p, then output 1080p! Don't output interlaced video from your PC unless you're going to an old CRT HDTV, or a standard NTSC or PAL CRT TV. In those cases, interlaced is the way to go!
[edit]
After closely reading the thread, I see that this TV probably has a 1080p panel, but doesn't properly take 1080p60 in through HDMI. In this case, it's all up to the deinterlacer in this TV. If it's got good deinterlacing, then 1080i will end up looking better than 720p. If it's a crappy deinterlacer, then 720p will be a better bet.
[/edit]
~MiSfit
The difference between 1080i and 1080p is quite fundamental. 1080i is an interlaced display mode, which means that the screen is drawn in alternating "fields" - where each field is the odd or even lines of the screen. This is done ~60 times per second.
Interlaced scanning is very common - and is standard on NTSC and PAL TV.
The technical reasons behind it are complex, but basically it lets you get 60 pictures per second (59.94 actually), while only "really" using 30 fps of bandwidth. The sacrifice is that in high motion, you don't get as much spatial resolution.
Progressive scanning (1080p) is what we're all accustomed to on PC monitors. The display is refreshed one line at a time, which gives full spatial resolution at all times. 1080p60 is very intense to render and deliver, but most (video) content is actually 1080p24, since films are shot at 24fps.
Interlaced video loses perceived spatail resolution in high motion because each field is 540 lines, so in a worst case scenario (LOTS of movement) you only get 540 lines of resolution for each picture you see. In low motion, the fields blend together nicely, and you can "see" the full 1080 lines, since your eyes are tricked by persistence of vision.
It's very important to realize that interlaced scanning only properly works on interlaced displays! PC monitors, LCDs, DLPs, etc ARE NOT. They are inherently progressive. The only "true" 1080i displays are CRTs. All other displays must deinterlace 1080i to 1080p. This is a very difficult process to do well, and in the worst case scenario can result in literally throwing away half the fields and scaling up 540 lines to 1080. The quality of deinterlacers varies tremendously, and in the best case (with a dedicated hardware processor) you can get great results. Most of the time, it's best to just stick with progressive scan output to a progressive scan display. That's why most of the time 720p > 1080i on most displays.
A lot of TVs are actually 1080p these days. If you see an LCD or other flat panel TV advertising 1080i, that means it's likely a 720p panel that takes 1080i, does a questionable job of deinterlacing it (maybe to even 540p as I said), and then scaling it to 720p.
So, long winded video-nerd technical discussions aside - your best bet when connecting your TV to your PC is to determine what the true native resolution of your TV is, and then output that resolution, or the next best thing.
If your panel is native 720p (not exactly 1280x720, but something very close to it, I forget the funky standard) - then output 720p! If you panel is 1080p, then output 1080p! Don't output interlaced video from your PC unless you're going to an old CRT HDTV, or a standard NTSC or PAL CRT TV. In those cases, interlaced is the way to go!
[edit]
After closely reading the thread, I see that this TV probably has a 1080p panel, but doesn't properly take 1080p60 in through HDMI. In this case, it's all up to the deinterlacer in this TV. If it's got good deinterlacing, then 1080i will end up looking better than 720p. If it's a crappy deinterlacer, then 720p will be a better bet.
[/edit]
~MiSfit
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