Duron overclockability?????

[Fuzzmuncher]

By now everyone knows how overclockable Durons are.... but I read this section in an Anandtech review and was confused.

"The Duron 800 is also not the best overclocking candidate as it is still using Aluminum interconnects. From what we've seen, only the Copper based cores from Dresden are really able to hit 1GHz and beyond reliably and on a large enough scale. While there may be some Aluminum cores to hit 1GHz, for the most part it seems like it'll take a Fab30 produced Duron to be a truly solid overclocker beyond what the current Durons are capable of reaching.

So as far as the Duron is concerned, chances are that the 800MHz parts won't get any higher than the 700MHz parts we've had around for the past couple of months. Meaning that 900 - 950MHz is the realistic max without getting into some more powerful cooling methods."

Does this mean that the theoretical max for Duron 800 isn't much better than a 6 or 700? Thanks. Gonna build overclocking system for the first time & just trying to read up on everything I can.

 

[Oreo]

Yep, that´s basically what it means. Just get a 600, I mean they´re so cheap you can´t go wrong (even if it "only" hits 900 ).

 

[tigger80]

i agree, with durons its just icing on a cake if you can hit 1ghz. most will at least do 850mhz plus

 

[paulip88]

Yep. Even the early ones would reach 800-850. Basically what they are saying is that yields are so good now, basically any Duron can reach around 900. Below are some interesting numbers that I found.

CPU (Duron 600) Overclockability
AKAA0022MPMW Week 22 800 - 850Mhz
AKAA0024DPBW Week 24 800 - 850Mhz
AKAA0027BPAW Week 27 900 - 950Mhz
AKBA0029TPAW Week 29 900 - 1.0Ghz
AKBA0036APAW Week 36 1.0 - 1.05Ghz
AKBA0036APBW Week 36 950Mhz - 1Ghz

 

[snow patrol]

This UK company, OverClockers.co.uk is selling pre-tested Durons Ranging all the way up to 1Ghz, so I'm guessing that the supply must be pretty good.

 

[jinsonxu]

paulip88, got the info from my post?

 

[Hairbrush]

Do Durons generally come with the L1 bridges intact? If not is it easy enough for a ham fisted klutz (who me?) to reconnect 'em? Assuming I can find some of this conductive gloop.

 

[Elbryn]

ya dont need to get the conductive gloop to reconnect the l1 bridges. Just grab a pencil, either sharpen it up real nice or use a mechanical and just color the bridges over to connect them. Since you said you were ham fisted you might try this over the more permanent defogger kit method until you got it down.

 

[Hairbrush]

Will that be a permanent solution or will I have to get out my colouring set every so often?

 

[paulip88]

jinsonxu,
yeah. I did copy it from your post. Found it useful info. Thanks.

Hairbrush,
IMHO, the pencil trick is not a permanent solution. I got a 50MHz degradation in performance within 24 hours. This is unusualy fast since most people either don't experience this or see it several weeks later. Right now I'm using the compound from an epoxy used to repair a defogger. Running 50MHz faster and more stable.

 

[Rigoletto]

Will that be a permanent solution or will I have to get out my colouring set every so often?
LOL!
Actually I wuz thinking the same thing.

 

[jinsonxu]

No problem, paulip88
That's what the forums are for!

 

[Vpham97]

I though we could use nail polish remover to remove the defogger stuff and we need to redo it again. Am I not right?

 

[paulip88]

About the defogger kit:
There are some defogger repair kits that are available that come as an epoxy. The kind I have was manufactured by Syon Corp (not sure what the brand was though) and came in two syringes. One was the silver compound, the other was the other half of the epoxy. So... since the silver is obviously the conductive bit, I only used that, and its doesn't harden (in theory), so it was a bit safer to play with without risking losing my cheap Duron chip.