Duron --> Athlon Mobile XP?

[AtlantaBob]

I've got a Compaq Presario 700 Laptop -- Duron 900 MHz processor -- works ok for what I need it to do, but it's a little slow with large Powerpoint files, running multiple apps at once, and running some newer releases (Mozilla Thunderbird Mail Client is darn slow).

Would it be possible to upgrade the processor? (Specifically, move it from a Duron --> Athlon Mobile XP? )

What all would I need to consider? The Socket should be the same right? then I just need to match FSB speeds and heat dissipation capacity? Should there be any problem with a Mobile XP and the Chipset/Older Ram?

The threads that I've seen on other boards have no responses and HP/Compaq isn't very helpful... so I'm hoping you guys can help me out--Thanks in advance!

PS. I'm also planning on upgrading the RAM--any suggestions, other than not buying it from HP/Compaq?

 

[eLiu]

This is probably impossible. For one thing, that CPU may be soldered onto the motherboard. For another thing, the higher FSB speeds may not be supported...and in all likelihood, your motherboard is not compatible with the Athlon XP series...different power requirements. Same socket, but your motherboard may not be up to spec.

For RAM, try www.newegg.com...you should find soem decent pricing there. Otherwise, wait till a store liek Best Buy throws a sale on that stuff.

 

[MDE]

Try Crucial.com for memory, it's guaranteed to be compatible.

 

[AtlantaBob]

Thanks.... that's what I was afraid of... Well, one more reason to look at at Powerbook then... I have been wanting an excuse to get one. Now if I can just convince my boss I need a raise...

 

[BehindEnemyLines]

Hi,

I have the Presario 700US with 128MB built-in and 256MB addon. It's currently running a Mobile Athlon 4 1.2GHz. Note that it's not Athlon XP-M. They've different power requirements (I think). As far as I can tell, the Athlon 4 has PowerNow! that dynamically adjust the multiplier and voltage. The lowest voltage I get is 1.30V (lowest speed) and highest is 1.550V (max speed). You can probably upgrade to a Mobile Athlon 4 1500+ (but I'm not sure about the XP version). BTW, it's not soldered in as I opened mine up. Uses a ZIF Socket A.

Mine uses the ProSavage KN133 chipset (VT8362) that supports a maximum FSB of 266MHz. But whether the BIOS & motherboard supports lower voltage is another thing.

Does your Presario fan run often and how fast? Mine seems to run very often, but at a slow speed never at maximum (max speed sounds like a tornado). The exhausted air is somewhat warm, and the keyboard is just a bit warm as it sits above the heatsink. The bottom is hot especially the memory cover. Do you've the same description.

Other than that, it's very stable. Never had any shutdown from overheating even though I ran MemTest86+ for about 30 minutres. The laptop became extremely hot.

 

[mehmetmunur]

The biggest bottleneck in a laptop, and therefore any other computer, is the hard drive. Most older ones come with 4200rpm or 5400rpm hard drives with little cache. After increasing the RAM in your laptop, switching to a newer harddrive would be more advantageous than upgrading your CPU, which is more complicated. 900Mhz should be plenty in a Windows XP environment. You will see leaps in performance when upgrading from 64MB to 128MB or higher. If you are running XP, 512MB should be more than plenty, and 256MB should be adequate.

I just purchased a Compaq presario XP2800+ with 512MB ram and wireless g. Except for the hard drive that spins at 5400rpm, does a great job. It only cost me $900. The best part is, I can still upgrade to 1GB ram easily, since I still have 1 slot open.

 

[dnuggett]

you will see leaps in performance when upgrading from 64MB to 128MB or higher. If you are running XP, 512MB should be more than plenty, and 256MB should be adequate.

I am interested in how you can offer that blanket statement to everyone..... do you think every user is equal in system requirements? I would get absolutely nowhere with 256, and I'd be crying w/ 512.

 

[xcrunner51]

its more of a in general statement. if you not a general type of person then whoop di do don't say anything.

 

[AtlantaBob]

BehindEnemyLines-

Thanks for the advice. I thought I had come across some places on the web showing that the chip wasn't soldered in, but I couldn't find them to quote for the message.

The fan does seem to run often, but at low speads, and it does run warm -- at least, I don't like actually using it in my lap unless it's a cold winter night. I've had it overheat (I think) one time -- whatever happened, I came back to a BSOD that referenced a memory failure. In general my experiences seem to line up with yours.

Anything that you learned from upgrading the machine? Anything to look out for? Any places on the web that I should look for directions? It seems like the upgrade could be a good bost for a fairly low cost.

Also--do you find that the display hinges are a little loose? (that is, that the screen rotates maybe a quarter of an inch forward and backwards on it's hinges as you type on it?) If so, have you found a decent solution?

And as for the RAM discussions--thanks for the advice. Usually, however, I'm using a couple of different applications at once (Word, PowerPoint, Bookshelf, and an email and web client), so I think I may want to at least look at upgrading the RAM over the defualt 256 (actually 240, since 16 MB goes to the integrated graphics).

Thanks again, all!

 

[BehindEnemyLines]

I bought the laptop originally from an ATer that had a motherboard problem, so I bought a replacement one on Ebay. The original laptop came stocked with the Mobile Athlon 4 1.2GHz and 128MB built-in plus 128MB addon. I later bought a 256MB from another fellow ATer pulled from a Compaq laptop.

Foreword & Disclaimer:

If your laptop works fine, I don't recommend upgrading the processor even though it's not too difficult. It can be expensive if the motherboard dies ($155 from ebay). But if you follow the direction, it should be okay. I will not be responsible or be liability if you do use my instruction, and it works or doesn't work. Do it at your own risk and only if you're comfortable. Read the entire instruction/post three or four times before opening.

Read mine and others discussion on the presario 700 before opening: Presario 700 Problems

Tools and materials you'll need:
A torx #8 (may also need #9) screw driver. I got a set of this from Radio Shack.
A flat-blade screw driver, but make sure the blade isn't too big.
Good quality thermal pad or thermal paste. I recommend Arctic Silver 3,5 or Arctic Alumina paste (non conductive and non-capacitive). Use thermal pad if you're not comfortable with the paste. Don't use any adhesive or epoxy.
Anti-static bag to store your old cpu.
Paper, pencil, and a good container to keep track of the screws (or use digi camera).
Brightly lit work area & a safe non-static environment if possible.
Time and patience.
RTC Lithium 3V battery for BIOS if you want to replace - number 1220 from Radio Shack

IMPORTANT: Before opening, disconnect from main power, lithion-ion battery, and wear a static wrist strap if possible. If you can't, then make sure to discharge yourself by touching something metal before and each time you touch any of the motherboard components and cpu.

I used this site: Dissambling & Reassembling as my guide for disassembling and reassembling. Take note (draw pictures if you have to) the order of the components and screws you take off (the locations and type of screws used). Keep the screws well (I didn't).

Actual opening for cpu upgrade. LCD screen does NOT need to be removed, but you may want to protect it from scratches:

1. Remove the led cover (the row of buttons on top with the Power button). See Led Cover.
2. Lift up the keyboard gently. See Keyboard. There's a cable attached to it. Remove the cable as instructed from the site.
3. Unscrew the screws that hold the two LCD screen ground wires. See LCD Display. You DON'T have to remove the LCD display, just the ground cables and the two connectors. Take note of the two connectors orientation. Never pull on the cables wires. See the site for more instruction. Afterward, place the two cables away from the heatsink area so that they wouldn't interfere with the heatsink removal and installation.
4. Remove the heatsink. See Heatsink. Unscrew the top right screw near the right LCD hinge. Then remove the four main CPU screws. The removal order of the four screws is important. Remove & install in this order: 1,2,3,4. Also, take note of the heatsink fan's connector orientation (how is it plugged in) and where the excess wire goes as you take it off.
5. Remove the CPU. Take note of its position on the socket. See CPU. Follow the site's instruct carefully. Clean and remove all the thermal pad and paste from the cpu with 99% isophrl alcohol. Store it in the anti-static bag and put in a safe place.
6. Take some 99% isophyrl alcohol and Q-tip and clean the heatsink well. It's good enough when the Q-tip is no longer dark or black or otherwise dirty.
7. This is also a good time to clean the heatsink's fan and fins. The secondary fan is probably not dirty, but you can clean it too if you remove the CDROM. See CDROM. Take note HOW the cdrom drive slides into the rails. You may also clean the motherboard of dust using an anti-static pressured can air. Don't spray the air too near at the motherboard as it can condense at freezing temperature. This may damage delicate components. Spray at a far distance, maybe 4-6 inches away.
8. Recommended Option:If you read the article above I provided above the AC plug soldering going bad, then you probably try to prevent it first. The soldering on the AC plug is terrible. Check to see if the center pin connector is good by first removing the CDROM drive. Take note HOW the cdrom drive slides into the rails. The center pin is the one from the back of the plug. There's not much on the connectors and traces so the movement of the plug (from plug in and out) can tear the soldering away. It did in my case. So I decided to use liquid super glue and glue both entire sides of the plug onto the motherboard PCB very well, but don't make a mess. Clamp it with your fingers for about one or two minutes. I also made sure that the glue would also "slip" underneath the plug (not gluing the bottom of the motherboard as that requires you to take the motherboard out which is not recommended). The plug should be very strong and shouldn't move at all once the super glue dried. You should also replace the RTC lithium battery with a new available from Radio Shack making sure the polarity is correct.
9. Take out the new CPU by holding it on the edges. Never touch the pins. Clean the die well with the alcohol and remove all paste from the traces gently as they're delicate. Then put it in the same position as original or align it as instructed by the site. If it doesn't fall in easily, check to see if the socket is in the unlock position, no pins are bent, and the orientation is correct. Don't force it if it doesn't go in.
10. Now, I made a mistake right here when I reinstall the CPU. Go to the CPU site again above, and see under "Installing the Processor". I'll add a few additions to the instruction. Gently slide the screw driver to the right until you first feel a little resistance, then slowly and gently slide the cpu with MORE force into the socket. Stop when you see the that the right edge of the socket (the top piece of plastic that slide as welll, cannot go any farther. It should reach the same place as you should have noted originally before removing the CPU. I originally stopped when I first felt resistance, so the cpu didn't make contact with the pins. If you can EASILY take the cpu off without doing the removing procedure, then it's not seated properly.
11. If you did take out the CDROM drive and put it back in, make sure that it does not dislodge the RTC battery and the secondary fan connectors. Check and make sure all connectors are secured properly.
12. Apply the thermal pad or thermal paste as instructed. If you use thermal paste, don't make it too thick. A thin layer is good enough, but make sure it's evenly applied to the entire die. A quality thermal pad may be easier and better in this case. I used AS 5, but I think I put too much on it since the fan now spins much more often at the moment the laptop is turned on, and it doesn't seem to stop even while idling for more than an hour.
13. Reconnect the heatsink fan's cable taking note the connector's orientation and put the excess wires properly away from the moving blade. Then place the heatsink in gently and slowly. See the picture again. Make sure and double check that the four holes are aligned perfectly before screwing in. Screw in the sequence 1,2,3,4 as marked on the heatsink. Each screw should be tightly screwed in BEFORE continuing to the next one. But do NOT use too much force as it may rip the nuts from the bottom casing. Stop when you feel you cannot screw in any further. After all the screws are in tightly, you can use aluminium foil or something that doesn't melt to fill un the screw holes. This will prevent the screws from unscrewing itself. Make sure the foil or the material you'll using is tight and fills to the top. Then use scotch tape and tape each hole so the fillings don't fall out, but don't use too much tape as it may tape in heat. Use just enough to cover the holes securely.
14. Screw in the heatsink upper screw near the right hinge. Reattach the LCD main connectors making sure the orientation of the connectors are correct and securely and snuggly in place, then screw in the ground cables.
15. Install the keyboard as instructed by the site.
16. Install the LED cover.
17. Press the power button, and cross your fingers. Test it for about 30 minutes and do a burn-in test for about 20 minutes. I used MemTest86+. That raised the temperature incredibly. You may want to place the laptop on a glass panel or aluminum panel. That'll help dissapate the heat. Take note of the fan speed. If you just boot-up and let it idle, but it still spins at maximum speed and cold or slightly warm air is exhaust, then something may be wrong. Shutdown and double check the heatsink. If you do the burn-in test and everything gets hot especially the exhausted air, then it should be normal. If it shutdowns all of a sudden, then something is wrong. Go over the procedure again and make sure everything is properly done. If everything is fine, screw in the two screws from the back.
18. Remember that the laptop shutdowns by itself if it gets overheated or the cpu isn't seated properly. If that happens more than two times, then go over the procedure again.
19. IMPORTANT ADDITION: If the CPU is NOT seated properly, then you will very likely get nothing except for the AC light, power light, and maybe battery light you when turn it on. You will not get any audible or visual sign that the cpu isn't seated correctly.

Misc Remarks
I did a full/total disassembling of the laptop so that I could repaint the casing (just the silver stuff) and the LCD bezel.

If you decide to upgrade the memory, please let me know the maximum you can upgrade. The manual says 384MB, but I think it can go higher possibly a maximum of 512MB for the add-on memory for a total of 640MB if you have 128MB built-in and 768MB if you have 256MB built-in. I don't know whether the Athlon XP-M can be used. I think it uses more power (dissapates more heat) unless you use the Athlon XP-M low-voltage which I think uses different packaging.

Is there two different versions of the Athlon XP-M? I think one uses the standard 462 pins Socket A but the other has a completely and smaller confirgurations.

My LCD hinges are fine. If yous have troubles, you can try ebay. They often sell these stuff. Type in "Presario 700 hinges" or "Presario 700 hinge".

Well, that's all that I can think of. Ask if you need more help. Good luck.

 

[AtlantaBob]

Thanks very much--It'll be at least next weekend until I can get to all of this, but I certainly appreciate it. May have some more posts then.