dumb question about drilling into drywall

[bitt3n]

I'm trying to drill some #9X3" drywall screws but it looks like I need to make pilot holes first, because the phillips bit keeps jumping out of the screw. What size drill bit should I use? (I'm just going to buy the one I need, from here http://www.amazon.com/s/qid=1280180...8240&sort=price )

Also, I'm kind of curious why drill bits are cylindrical (whereas screw bits have a hex end to bind to the chuck).)

Yes I know nothing about drills

 

[Kelvrick]

Why not get a set of drill bits? It isn't that much for a cheap set and you don't need fancy pants bits for dry wall. It will help for when you're doing other things.

Is there a stud where you're drilling, and if not, are you going to use anchors?

http://www.internetwoodworking.com/w5/screws.html

 

[marvdmartian]

some drill bits come with hex head attachments on the end, but most inexpensive ones are round, just because the chuck on the drill should be able to hold it.

Now, first question. Are you trying to put these screws into the wall with a regular drill motor? Or do you have like a cordless drill/driver, where you can turn it down to lower speed? Even with a good trigger finger, a variable speed drill motor is a bitch to keep low speed, and really lacks any significant torque to drive screws (unless you've got a BIG drill motor, which then is even tougher to keep at the low speed). If you're using a drill motor, I suggest you beg/borrow/buy/steal a cordless drill/driver, and use that. Generally speaking, I have have had to pre-drill a pilot hole for a screw, unless it was going into hardwood (which generally isn't used for studs in construction of walls).

Second question, are you using drywall screws, or wood screws? Again, better tool to use is a lower speed/higher torque drill/driver. Depending on the size of the screw will depend on a pilot hole size, but going much over 3/32 will probably not leave you enough wood for the screw threads to engage. Even a 1/16 should be adequate (you're only trying to give the screw a path of lower resistance through the wood). Also, you can lubricate the screw threads with some soap (liquid or hand soap....just drag the screw threads across a scrap of soap), and they'll go through the wood easier.

Not sure if that answers your questions or not? :hmm:

 

[bitt3n]

Why not get a set of drill bits? It isn't that much for a cheap set and you don't need fancy pants bits for dry wall. It will help for when you're doing other things.

Is there a stud where you're drilling, and if not, are you going to use anchors?

http://www.internetwoodworking.com/w5/screws.html

yeah I bought a stud finder and found 4 sets of studs. I'm hanging up a climbing board (for rock climbing, doing exercises), so I'm drilling a piece of pine on the wall to the studs, then attaching the board to that.

Seems like a waste of ~$15 to buy a full set of bits, just because I live in an apartment and will likely never use this for anything else than installing this board. That chart looks like exactly what I want, thanks.

some drill bits come with hex head attachments on the end, but most inexpensive ones are round, just because the chuck on the drill should be able to hold it.

Now, first question. Are you trying to put these screws into the wall with a regular drill motor? Or do you have like a cordless drill/driver, where you can turn it down to lower speed? Even with a good trigger finger, a variable speed drill motor is a bitch to keep low speed, and really lacks any significant torque to drive screws (unless you've got a BIG drill motor, which then is even tougher to keep at the low speed). If you're using a drill motor, I suggest you beg/borrow/buy/steal a cordless drill/driver, and use that. Generally speaking, I have have had to pre-drill a pilot hole for a screw, unless it was going into hardwood (which generally isn't used for studs in construction of walls).

Second question, are you using drywall screws, or wood screws? Again, better tool to use is a lower speed/higher torque drill/driver. Depending on the size of the screw will depend on a pilot hole size, but going much over 3/32 will probably not leave you enough wood for the screw threads to engage. Even a 1/16 should be adequate (you're only trying to give the screw a path of lower resistance through the wood). Also, you can lubricate the screw threads with some soap (liquid or hand soap....just drag the screw threads across a scrap of soap), and they'll go through the wood easier.

Not sure if that answers your questions or not? :hmm:

I'm using drywall screws with a $30 Ryobi corded drill that has variable torque. The screw gets tight and the bit skips out of the screw. I'm not sure why it's so hard to do it. I'm installing a metolius climbing board and the dude in the youtube installation video drives them right in like through butter. My only guess is that it might be because I'm installing it into a heavier duty stud (it appears to be structural support for the roof of the building).

how about these? http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Twis...0191187&sr=1-1
http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Twis...0191372&sr=1-1

that's based on marv's chart for a 9-gauge screw through wood, soft and hard. I could try the soft version first, then switch to hard if necessary.

I must admit I'm a bit uneasy, because the 4 sets of studs I found aren't exactly equidistant from one another. (I found four vertical studs using a magnet stud finder, and I'm assuming that the studs must not be exactly in the center of each support, since the supports themselves should be the same distance apart.) if this falls down I'm going to hit the deck and then it's going to hit me on the head, so hopefully I don't screw it up

 

[ElFenix]

use a bit slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the screw


edit: did you get your apt's permission to do this? if you don't drill pilot holes there is a good chance you will split the studs.

 

[jlee]

If you're screwing right into drywall, you should be able to run the screw right in...I've never had to pre-drill drywall before. Are you using the proper sized bit for the screws?

 

[OUCaptain]

If the screws are new and your bit is still jumping out (assuming you're applying descent pressure), your Philips bit is shot. The moment mine starts slipping, even just a little, I grab a new bit. I usually grab the Dewalt 25 pack for 6 bucks I think. It's well worth it to make sure the screws goes in on one shot. A good bit also keeps you from having to press as hard.

also, make sure you're using a #2 bit.

 

[JohnOfSheffield]

Dry wall is just 1/2 inch plaster boards covered with thin paper seal, you can't hang anything heavy on it without proper plaster plugs and even then it will eventually crack with vibration if there is any.

Are you sure it's drywall?

If you are talking about drywall over concrete, that might explain it. In that case you need to use a proper drill, plugs and screws, ask in your local hardware store and they'll set you up with what you'll need. Cost... less than £5 for that.

 

[JulesMaximus]

I'm trying to drill some #9X3" drywall screws but it looks like I need to make pilot holes first, because the phillips bit keeps jumping out of the screw. What size drill bit should I use? (I'm just going to buy the one I need, from here http://www.amazon.com/s/qid=1280180...8240&sort=price )

Also, I'm kind of curious why drill bits are cylindrical (whereas screw bits have a hex end to bind to the chuck).)

Yes I know nothing about drills

So that the makers of cheap drills can keep selling new ones or expensive chucks when theirs break. I had a Ryobi cordless drill that would not hold drill bit tight enough to drill into pine studs without the bit slipping. I replaced the chuck with a Jacobs and never had a problem after that...until the battery charger died of course.

Cheap drills are NEVER worth the money.

 

[JohnOfSheffield]

So that the makers of cheap drills can keep selling new ones or expensive chucks when theirs break. I had a Ryobi cordless drill that would not hold drill bit tight enough to drill into pine studs without the bit slipping. I replaced the chuck with a Jacobs and never had a problem after that...until the battery charger died of course.

Cheap drills are NEVER worth the money.

Actually, most expensive drills are cylindrical too, it's just that a proper drill has a chuch that will hold it just fine. When you try to use your all in purpose crap for something it's not meant to handle, you will have a problem.

I agree with Jules, those chucks delivered with most hobby machines like cordless Ryobi and Bosh are just useless for proper drilling, you need a key chuck to use the drills (and the more higher quality of the drill bits, the higher the quality of the chuck needs to be to hold them) properly.

I recommend Hilti or DeWalt.

 

[Greenman]

This has lost time injury written all over it.

Why are you attaching pine to the wall? Why not attach the climbing board directly? Why are you using drywall screws? 1/4" lags would be more appropriate.

What you really need to do is call a friend that has some tools and a little knowledge. A 1/4" impact driver would make your life so much easier.

 

[Greenman]

Actually, most expensive drills are cylindrical too, it's just that a proper drill has a chuch that will hold it just fine. When you try to use your all in purpose crap for something it's not meant to handle, you will have a problem.

I agree with Jules, those chucks delivered with most hobby machines like cordless Ryobi and Bosh are just useless for proper drilling, you need a key chuck to use the drills (and the more higher quality of the drill bits, the higher the quality of the chuck needs to be to hold them) properly.

I recommend Hilti or DeWalt.

Keyed chucks are a pain in the ass. A good quality key-less chuck will work just fine unless you're trying to turn a 4" holesaw, or you're using an auger bit.
Of the dozen or so drills I own, the two that see the most use are the impact driver (not really a drill) and my 1/2" angle drive.

 

[bitt3n]

This has lost time injury written all over it.

Why are you attaching pine to the wall? Why not attach the climbing board directly? Why are you using drywall screws? 1/4" lags would be more appropriate.

What you really need to do is call a friend that has some tools and a little knowledge. A 1/4" impact driver would make your life so much easier.

I'm just blindly following the instructions of this video: http://www.youtube.com/user/metolius#p/u/3/t5w_zETZzYk

the climbing board came with 9 9X3" screws to attach the climbing board to the pine, and I got a bunch more to attach the pine to the wall. the reason for the pine (the guy in the video uses plywood, but Home Depot happened to have a piece of discarded pine the right size and thickness) is that the drill holes in the climbing board are not spaced the same distance as the studs.

I don't know anyone local who can help me with this, unfortunately. It's unlikely I'll ever use this drill for anything else (other than removing the thing when I move out)

If the screws are new and your bit is still jumping out (assuming you're applying descent pressure), your Philips bit is shot. The moment mine starts slipping, even just a little, I grab a new bit. I usually grab the Dewalt 25 pack for 6 bucks I think. It's well worth it to make sure the screws goes in on one shot. A good bit also keeps you from having to press as hard.

also, make sure you're using a #2 bit.

yeah I chewed up the bit pretty bad

 

[speg]

Can you make sure you have video recording the first time you go to use this board. You know, just in case...

 

[JohnOfSheffield]

Keyed chucks are a pain in the ass. A good quality key-less chuck will work just fine unless you're trying to turn a 4" holesaw, or you're using an auger bit.
Of the dozen or so drills I own, the two that see the most use are the impact driver (not really a drill) and my 1/2" angle drive.

Well if you are going to use it professionally then go for a fitted drill and an autochuck but if you are going to use it as a hobby/home drill, a proper drill with a key chuck works just fine and you can use something else for screwdriving.

I've got a Hilti at home, key chuch and over 35 years old, it will drive a 10 inch holesaw if i need it to and still be good to use for anything else.

There is also something to be said for the proper tool for the proper job without having to buy a sheitload of equipment for jobs that you might do once every ten years.

That said, Ryobi is crap, Hitatchi is crap, Bosh is crap and b&d is just as good as any of them, AEG tools and Hilti are pretty fucking great tools, DeWalt is somewhere in the between.

ONE Hilti is enough for any use, couple that with some cheap Ryobi or B&D regular screwdriving machine and you are good to go.

 

[bfdd]

You know you could just tap them in slightly with a hammer to get them started then do the rest by hand if you wanted.

 

[JohnOfSheffield]

I'm just blindly following the instructions of this video: http://www.youtube.com/user/metolius#p/u/3/t5w_zETZzYk

the climbing board came with 9 9X3" screws to attach the climbing board to the pine, and I got a bunch more to attach the pine to the wall. the reason for the pine (the guy in the video uses plywood, but Home Depot happened to have a piece of discarded pine the right size and thickness) is that the drill holes in the climbing board are not spaced the same distance as the studs.

I don't know anyone local who can help me with this, unfortunately. It's unlikely I'll ever use this drill for anything else (other than removing the thing when I move out)


yeah I chewed up the bit pretty bad

Yeah, if this IS drywall, you're going to either need to find two studs, one at each side or if they are too far in between you will need board to attatch to the studs and apply it to that board.

You can't expect regular drywall to hold your weight on a few mount points because it wont.

I buy bits by the bucket, regular low quality bits, it takes about one hundred screws before it jumps and then i just change into the next one in the bucket.

You can get a bucket for about £20.

 

[JohnOfSheffield]

You know you could just tap them in slightly with a hammer to get them started then do the rest by hand if you wanted.

In drywall, a sligt tap would push the screw right through...

am i missing something here? Is drywall something different in the US?

 

[bitt3n]

Yeah, if this IS drywall, you're going to either need to find two studs, one at each side or if they are too far in between you will need board to attatch to the studs and apply it to that board.

You can't expect regular drywall to hold your weight on a few mount points because it wont.

I buy bits by the bucket, regular low quality bits, it takes about one hundred screws before it jumps and then i just change into the next one in the bucket.

You can get a bucket for about £20.

I've found four sets of studs, and I'm putting 3 screws in each.

 

[bfdd]

In drywall, a sligt tap would push the screw right through...

am i missing something here? Is drywall something different in the US?

huh? no it wouldn't wtf kind of drywall are you using?

 

[MikeyIs4Dcats]

good lord, you shouldn't need to predrill holes in drywall or wood studs for anything short of a lag bolt, and even that's questionable.

 

[MagnusTheBrewer]

Apparently there's several people who aren't as smart as the drywall. There is a learning curve you know for using hand tools.

 

[bfdd]

Apparently there's several people who aren't as smart as the drywall. There is a learning curve you know for using hand tools.

lol.

 

[jlee]

huh? no it wouldn't wtf kind of drywall are you using?

A tap should put the point of the screw through the paper layer.

Every sheet of drywall I've seen is plaster covered with paper. There's a reason that drywall screws are pointy.

 

[bfdd]

A tap should put the point of the screw through the paper layer.

Every sheet of drywall I've seen is plaster covered with paper. There's a reason that drywall screws are pointy.

duh, but it's not going to get pushed straight through the drywall like JOS said. i should know i've done it quite a few times.