Drywalling/closing a doorway. Need advice. Calling all contractors/DIYers!

Shawn

Lifer
Apr 20, 2003
32,236
53
91
I am going to remove an interior door in a hallway and close up the opening. Unfortunately the hallway still has wood paneling which I won't be able to match. I'm going to use this as an opportunity to replace all the wood paneling with drywall. Luckily the adjoining room already has drywall.

I get that I will need to close off the doorway by putting in wood studs then drywalling over it. Seems easy enough, except I have tile flooring going through the two rooms. The tile is on top of cement boards/hardiebacker. None of the DIY sites mention anything about existing flooring

Will I need to cut the tile on both sides and somehow remove both the tile and hardiebacker on that one area so that the framing can meet the subfloor, or can I just go on top of the tile and not worry about it? It seems like I could but would be a huge pain for anyone who wanted to change the flooring in the future.

Assuming I need to remove a strip of tile/backer, how would I do this without ruining the tile?
 

Eug

Lifer
Mar 11, 2000
23,928
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Is it really necessary to cut out the tile? Couldn't you just add 2x4s to span the doorway without putting in new studs into the floor, considering it is just to hold up drywall?
 

Newell Steamer

Diamond Member
Jan 27, 2014
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First, get yourself about 500 lbs worth of cement.

Not in a cement mixing truck - just 500 lbs worth of cement bags. Once you got that, I'll tell you what's next.
 

NoTine42

Golden Member
Sep 30, 2013
1,387
78
91
With time on cement board I would strongly consider stud on tile. (Unless you are considering replacing the tile within 5 years)

I wouldn't nail through the tile, instead I would pre-drill the tile with a masonry bit and then screw (3" construction screw) down the stud.
Just a doorway, you probably only need 1 screw down in the middle, then screw the sides into the Jack studs.
 

T9D

Diamond Member
Dec 1, 2001
5,320
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All it needs to do is hold the drywall up. The door stud framing already does any load bearing. Just go over the tile and call it good.
 

NoTine42

Golden Member
Sep 30, 2013
1,387
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All it needs to do is hold the drywall up. The door stud framing already does any load bearing. Just go over the tile and call it good.

Technically, you could build another "header" 1/4" off the ground and not even touch the tile with framing (use caulk or spray foam for sound insulation)
 

highland145

Lifer
Oct 12, 2009
43,973
6,333
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Technically, you could build another "header" 1/4" off the ground and not even touch the tile with framing (use caulk or spray foam for sound insulation)
If he's taking the paneling down, might as well do this and leave the tile intact, with no holes, for when the SO changes her mind.:thumbsup:
 

edro

Lifer
Apr 5, 2002
24,326
68
91
How are you going to fasten the studs to the floor?
You need a 2x4 lying on the ground to tie the vertical studs to.
How are you going to secure the bottom board to the tile?
Construction adhesive?

I would buy an oscillating tool (they are awesome and you will use it a lot in the future) and cut the tile out. No need to take out the hardibacker, but you might as well once you have the tile off too.
 

MarkXIX

Platinum Member
Jan 3, 2010
2,642
1
71
Go through the tile and a 2x4 with a few screws into the subfloor and frame from there. No need to remove tile, baseboard will mask it anyway.
 

VulgarDisplay

Diamond Member
Apr 3, 2009
6,188
2
76
How are you going to fasten the studs to the floor?
You need a 2x4 lying on the ground to tie the vertical studs to.
How are you going to secure the bottom board to the tile?
Construction adhesive?

I would buy an oscillating tool (they are awesome and you will use it a lot in the future) and cut the tile out. No need to take out the hardibacker, but you might as well once you have the tile off too.

Toe nail the plate on the floor into the cripples of the doorway. Simple. It's just there to hold drywall up it doesn't need to be some engineering marvel.

Just put it over the tile and once your drywall and baseboard are down you will never know it happened.
 

feralkid

Lifer
Jan 28, 2002
16,648
4,766
136
How are you going to fasten the studs to the floor?
You need a 2x4 lying on the ground to tie the vertical studs to.
How are you going to secure the bottom board to the tile?
Construction adhesive?

I would buy an oscillating tool (they are awesome and you will use it a lot in the future) and cut the tile out. No need to take out the hardibacker, but you might as well once you have the tile off too.


First you need to go pick up 3 tons of riprap, then completely rebuild your transmission; probably pick up some left handed panda hammers while you're at it..
 

DrPizza

Administrator Elite Member Goat Whisperer
Mar 5, 2001
49,601
166
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www.slatebrookfarm.com
Over the tile. Otherwise, you risk cracking/damaging the tiles adjacent to the wall when making your cuts. And, you also risk pulling the tiles loose. Refastening the tiles isn't a huge problem - it's just an extra trip to the hardware store, a bit of chiseling some of the old thinset (or mastic) out, so that when you apply new adhesive, it'll still sit flush. Basically, it would be an unnecessary annoyance.

You can probably get away with only attaching it at the ends (to the framing around the doorway). But, if you have to go through the tile, use a masonry bit to drill through the tile on top first. (And maybe through the backerboard).
 
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T9D

Diamond Member
Dec 1, 2001
5,320
6
0
Did anybody say just go over the tile?

Well we have to beat him into submission until he complies.

Besides I look at it like a poll. Sure you can have one person tell him exactly what is fine or right, but if 9 other people come on and say the wrong thing they are probably going to go do the wrong thing and just follow the crowd. In this case the wrong thing is wasting extra time and energy. So we need a crowd of people saying the best way so he get's it right.
 

Shawn

Lifer
Apr 20, 2003
32,236
53
91
IMG_20140423_150324_037copy.jpg


IMG_20140423_140457_087.jpg


That was the original doorway. At some point someone knocked out a large opening but left the original doorway. I think that wall must be load bearing. Just going to close up the doorway because it looks stupid.
 

edro

Lifer
Apr 5, 2002
24,326
68
91
Pfft. After seeing the pics... just toe nail the 2x4 into the existing framing on top of the tile.
No need to take the tile out. Screw the next owners. If they are replacing the flooring, they can chisel the tile out up to the wall.
 

DrPizza

Administrator Elite Member Goat Whisperer
Mar 5, 2001
49,601
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www.slatebrookfarm.com
Keep this in mind: when you put 2x4 studs in that doorway, you're going to want to plan ahead for where a sheet of drywall ends, especially if you're placing the sheets vertically vs. horizontally.
 

NoTine42

Golden Member
Sep 30, 2013
1,387
78
91
Keep this in mind: when you put 2x4 studs in that doorway, you're going to want to plan ahead for where a sheet of drywall ends, especially if you're placing the sheets vertically vs. horizontally.

Good point, you want your "fill in" vertical studs to match the wall's existing 16" On Center stud spacing. (Instead of just symmetrically filling in the doorway opening)
 

Shawn

Lifer
Apr 20, 2003
32,236
53
91
What about for the existing drywall on the other side? Wouldn't it make sense to center the stud in that case?

Either way, many of the studs aren't even spaced 16". Whoever built this house was drunk.