doin' a brake job

[morkinva]

Next week I'm helping someone do the front brakes on their Hyundai Sante Fe 6cyl AWD.

Is there anything special I need to know, for instance, do the rotors easily come off, any special tools required, etc.? I plan on getting the rotors cut at Pep Boys.

Thanx!

 

[yobarman]

i learned how to change the rotors on my car from my gramps... as far as i know they're not much you need to do besides taking it apart with regular wrenches. the rest is pretty easy.

 

[NutBucket]

If the rotors aren't scored I wouldn't get them turned. Just throw on some high quality pads.

 

[white]

the bolts holding the calipers might be hard to get off. and if you're set on going to pep boys to have them turned, go early before the line of jobs gets long. they told me two hours so i went elsewhere.

 

[morkinva]

I just found out the truck has 34k miles on it, and they've never been cut. I heard there are some vehicles which have to get the rotors turned while still on the car?

 

[notfred]

If the car doesn't vibrate while braking, and the rotors look ok, you shouldn't need to trun them.

 

[monckywrench]

There are on-car brake lathes, which are a timesaver for high volume shops.
The best way though is to remove the rotor if it requires turning, and inspect the wheel bearings and nearby components. Consult your shop manual for any special tools, torque values, or adjustments.

 

[TekViper]

make sure you use the right hex/torque head bit to take the caliper off! many times people use something that they think fits (you cant really see the nut your removing) and will apply force only to strip the nut on the caliper. thats a major pain in the ass you dont want to deal with. best thing to do is lookup in a manual what type of bolt it is and get the right size. btw those bolts can be very hard to get off, might need to put a piece of pipe over your wrench to get enough torque to brake it loose. also remember to turn the steering wheel all the way to one side so u have more room to work. when getting your pads/rotors, get a pack of that brake glue, forgot what its called but its blue, brake quite maybe? apply the glue to the BACK of the pads, not the working side. it'll help keep the pads in place and not rub against the rotors when brakes are not in use.

Rotors are pretty cheap, if they are already very worn its better just to get new rotors then have them cut. I think 2 rotors are less then 20 bucks or so. rotors slide off pretty easily. if not just hit it with a hammer and it should come off.

 

[Tominator]

It is a real waste of time not to turn the rotors imho. I do it everytime! It'll only cost 5 bucks each. Cheap insurance for a job done right....

 

[TekViper]

i agree but if they are already at thier minumum thickness and he's only got like 1 turn left in the rotors after that, if that, then its a waste. just get new rotors and turn them more often so they'll last longer.

 

[monckywrench]

I think 2 rotors are less then 20 bucks or so.

Usually twice that or more. Each.
Simple rule of thumb is if cutting will work and there is enough thickness, then true the rotor. No reason to replace a rotor that will true within safe llimits. When ya run out of usable rotor, replace rotor. I don't cut rotors for minor scoring, as this does not cause pulling or other evil behavior. Sometimes a rotor, when cut to limits, will still have a minor score or two that is deeper than the trued surface. This is no big deal either. If in doubt, ask the machinist who trues the rotor for their opinion.
Note that reputable shops will not cut your rotor or drum below factory-approved limits as this IS dangerous because it thins the metal. Any cracked, severely heat discolored, or damaged rotors/drums should be discarded.

 

[Tominator]

Originally posted by: monckywrench

I think 2 rotors are less then 20 bucks or so.

Usually twice that or more. Each.
Simple rule of thumb is if cutting will work and there is enough thickness, then true the rotor. No reason to replace a rotor that will true within safe llimits. When ya run out of usable rotor, replace rotor. I don't cut rotors for minor scoring, as this does not cause pulling or other evil behavior. Sometimes a rotor, when cut to limits, will still have a minor score or two that is deeper than the trued surface. This is no big deal either. If in doubt, ask the machinist who trues the rotor for their opinion.
Note that reputable shops will not cut your rotor or drum below factory-approved limits as this IS dangerous because it thins the metal. Any cracked, severely heat discolored, or damaged rotors/drums should be discarded.

Pep Boys or Autozone or name your favorite chain store will turn rotors for 5 bucks a pop. It is against federal law to turn a rotor after it reaches minimum thickness. They will 'mic' the rotor and tell you if it can be done.

 

[morkinva]

Yeh I figure the things got over 30k on it and they're OE rotors, they need to be turned. I'm told new pads on an unturned rotor will wear much faster. He's got inspection coming up so he wants to do something first before getting a shocker.

Also the brakes squeak, but not all the time so I intent to use the brake quiet TekViper recommends. I think if they squeaked all the time it would be the sensor digging into the rotor.

I called the local Autozone and they said they didn't cut rotors, so I guess its pepboys time. I'll bring some preprinted pepboys coupons if he needs new ones.

I doubt very much that new rotors for this vehicle are cheap. I estimate at least $50 each around here.

Thanks for all the help folks

 

[Squisher]

Originally posted by: Tominator
It is a real waste of time not to turn the rotors imho. I do it everytime! It'll only cost 5 bucks each. Cheap insurance for a job done right....

I don't know, some of these (how does red say it) pimple farmers they have working on the lathes can't help but screw up the turning.

At 35k I would probably just break the glaze on the rotors with some 60 grit emery. At 70k I would replace them.

But, then again I'm too old and lazy to want to do it twice if they screwed up the rotors.

 

[TekViper]

hmm i dunno. rotors for our 89 buick park avenue ran around $20 bucks total at pepboys, for 2 brand new ones.

 

[monckywrench]

But, then again I'm too old and lazy to want to do it twice if they screwed up the rotors.

Ditto on the "old and lazy", so I check them in shop before accepting them back and only get them cut at real machine shops or NAPA, who have never wasted a saveable rotor or drum on me yet. 10 bucks worth of cutting beats 40-50 bucks x 2 for parts.

 

[Lvis]

On my last car, it was only like eight bucks more to buy brand new ones. Worth checking on anyway.

 

[morkinva]

update:

The wheel studs are situated such that removal of the castle nut requires a socket, 1-1/4" - so I had to go out and buy that. The castle nut was on so tightly it required a 4' breaker bar plus a lot of force to break it. This was confounding to me as I've put wheel bearings on another car which required sensitive adjustment of the castle nut.

Then there were 2 screws securing the rotor to the spindle, each screwed in so tightly, that use of other than an exactly fitting philips bit would stip out the screw. Finally found the right bit and got them out.

Along with these problems, the car's owner was up against time pressure so the whole project was postponed.

 

[JC]

Originally posted by: morkinva
update:

The wheel studs are situated such that removal of the castle nut requires a socket, 1-1/4" - so I had to go out and buy that. The castle nut was on so tightly it required a 4' breaker bar plus a lot of force to break it. This was confounding to me as I've put wheel bearings on another car which required sensitive adjustment of the castle nut.

Then there were 2 screws securing the rotor to the spindle, each screwed in so tightly, that use of other than an exactly fitting philips bit would stip out the screw. Finally found the right bit and got them out.

Really? Usually just the 2 screws retain the rotor (besides the wheel when it's on ) and the big nut just secures the axle in the hub. Usually the rotor requires a whack or two with a hammer (preferably a brass hammer) to free it from the hub.

On the subject of turning the rotors, you definitely want to do it. It doesn't just true the surface, it puts on a finish that helps the pads seat properly. Otherwise the pads can glaze over and cause problems, such as poor braking performance, and noise.

JC