Does caulk just generally suck?

[Sukhoi]

I feel that I rarely see an installation of caulk that looks good after a couple years. Depending on the location it's either pulling away, moldy behind the surface, or dirty and impossible to clean.

Does caulk just need to be replaced that frequently? Or am I seeing caulk of the wrong type for the usage or poor surface cleaning before installation? When I am installing caulk in bathrooms and kitchens in the future what can I do to avoid these issues? Or is(are) there a different product(s) that are better to use for such sealing/filling applications? I'm mostly thinking of around sinks, shower doors, etc.

 

[Blanky]

I've used many kinds in many places over the years. It often does separate, but this appears to be always related to movement of the surfaces; the caulk itself is fine, but is being asked to do too much; if it's asked to bridge a gap too small, even a tiny bit of movement can demand it stretch to twice its original size. But overly large installations always seem to have seams as well.

Any time I use it to seal the gap of something that does not change, it has held up for years, including outdoors. Unfortunately, few materials of disparate constructs next to each other maintain their space long term. There always seems to be some movement.

 

[DrPizza]

I'm not sure how much this matters, but years ago, I'd buy cheap materials and expect them to hold up just as well as expensive materials. I'd get the $1/tube caulk. And, it would pull away, get moldy, etc. I've since changed to $7/tube 100% silicone, e.g., http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1272264 for the ACE brand; it's rated for 50 years or more. And, surface prep is incredibly important. Absolutely clean - after cleaning it with soap and water, it gets wiped down with a solvent that won't damage the surfaces; at the very least, rubbing alcohol. I can do a very good job without it, but sometimes I even use masking tape to make sure I have nearly perfect lines, and make sure it tapers to flat at the edge, so there are no little pockets that hold water, especially the top edge when applying horizontally. I no longer have any issues with the stuff not holding up or getting moldy.

Tips: push the tube of caulk when applying, don't pull. Most people pull. And, put on some tight latex gloves and use your finger to finish it, making the surface concave, instead of convex. Paper towels to wipe the caulk off each finger as you get a little excess sticking to the finger; don't expect to just go from one end to the other without making a mess, if you're not willing to do it carefully and remove even tiny bits of excess.

 

[skyking]

Dampen the finger to get really smooth results too.

 

[dandruff]

NP-1 if you can afford
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sonnebor...ethane-Sealants-4-Pack-White-181249/100678631

or

Top Gun 400 from porter paints
http://buyat.ppg.com/rep_pafpainttools_files/Pghpaints/TDB/1418.pdf

 

[MustISO]

I had the same issue with the standard caulk that home depot sells, I may try the 100% silicone but I'm pretty sure I've tried it in the past. The stuff the builder used 15 years ago still looks great.

 

[highland145]

I most always mask off the joint for a nice clean line. I don't do it enough to free hand and not get it everywhere.

 

[Sukhoi]

Interesting, it does seem that material and surface prep quality makes a huge difference. I think most of the caulk I have lived with has been cheap quality that was probably not prepped properly prior to installation.

 

[Humpy]

Besides product quality the main thing is to recognize is if the joint will experience movement, and if so, how much. Too often caulk is just splooged into a dirty gap(!) and called good, instead of using primer and backing rod, etc. to form a long lasting seal. For filling small gaps when painting stuff that will have very little differential movement you can get away with far less prep.

I've seen so many situations where the misuse of caulk does little but create future maintenance nightmares when flashing or gaskets or proper design could do the job cheaper and for far longer than tube after tube of whatever miracle product people were using.

 

[Sukhoi]

Besides product quality the main thing is to recognize is if the joint will experience movement, and if so, how much. Too often caulk is just splooged into a dirty gap(!) and called good, instead of using primer and backing rod, etc. to form a long lasting seal. For filling small gaps when painting stuff that will have very little differential movement you can get away with far less prep.

I've seen so many situations where the misuse of caulk does little but create future maintenance nightmares when flashing or gaskets or proper design could do the job cheaper and for far longer than tube after tube of whatever miracle product people were using.

I will definitely avoid splooging into a dirty gap. Most of the applications I am thinking of are minimal movement and small gap (shower doors, etc), but all good stuff to keep in mind.

 

[Scarpozzi]

There are definitely differences in caulk quality. Some aren't made to withstand temp differences and UV as well. It's important to note that it does shrink when it dries. If you're using it to fill a gap, it takes 15 hours to typically cure, so try not to get it wet in that time and it will last longer.

The water-based caulk they sell is junk and if you buy a tube and don't use it, take it back to the store. The shelf life isn't as long as you'd think. I've had some that was a few years old separate in the tube before.

 

[mizzou]

I feel that I rarely see an installation of caulk that looks good after a couple years. Depending on the location it's either pulling away, moldy behind the surface, or dirty and impossible to clean.

Does caulk just need to be replaced that frequently? Or am I seeing caulk of the wrong type for the usage or poor surface cleaning before installation? When I am installing caulk in bathrooms and kitchens in the future what can I do to avoid these issues? Or is(are) there a different product(s) that are better to use for such sealing/filling applications? I'm mostly thinking of around sinks, shower doors, etc.

That isn't a problem with caulk, it's a problem with something else. Caulk isn't supposed to be some sort of constant water barrier, it protects areas from water intrusion. If the caulk is moldy from behind or pulling away, there is a moisture problem BEHIND the caulk. Occasionally, the caulk may also pull away if it is in a place of constant moisture, which it is not designed for (as far as i know).

 

[mizzou]

OP, I love this finishing tool. It has made very professional lines...although it is not great for filling large gaps.

http://www.amazon.com/Homax-5850-10...30147308&sr=8-1&keywords=caulk+finishing+tool

 

[zardthebuilder]

Top Gun 400 from porter paints
http://buyat.ppg.com/rep_pafpainttools_files/Pghpaints/TDB/1418.pdf

before reading this thread, i only bought caulk at home depot and walmart. i needed paintable exterior caulk and just bought Top Gun 300 from porter paint for $1.89 per tube (weekly special -- $1 off per tube. YMMV.) not as good as Top Gun 400, but should be good enough for my purposes. 60 year warranty. i am really surprised how inexpensive it is. thanks all.

http://buyat.ppg.com/rep_pafpainttools_files/porter/tdb/1416.pdf

 

[gururu2]

If you accept that you may need to redo in a couple years and aren't a perfectionist when you do it, then it is a simple job. Its also easier to clean off an old job if it is a couple years old. Cleanup and replace shouldn't take more than 2 hours.

 

[paperfist]

I'm not sure how much this matters, but years ago, I'd buy cheap materials and expect them to hold up just as well as expensive materials. I'd get the $1/tube caulk. And, it would pull away, get moldy, etc. I've since changed to $7/tube 100% silicone, e.g., http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1272264 for the ACE brand; it's rated for 50 years or more. And, surface prep is incredibly important. Absolutely clean - after cleaning it with soap and water, it gets wiped down with a solvent that won't damage the surfaces; at the very least, rubbing alcohol. I can do a very good job without it, but sometimes I even use masking tape to make sure I have nearly perfect lines, and make sure it tapers to flat at the edge, so there are no little pockets that hold water, especially the top edge when applying horizontally. I no longer have any issues with the stuff not holding up or getting moldy.

Tips: push the tube of caulk when applying, don't pull. Most people pull. And, put on some tight latex gloves and use your finger to finish it, making the surface concave, instead of convex. Paper towels to wipe the caulk off each finger as you get a little excess sticking to the finger; don't expect to just go from one end to the other without making a mess, if you're not willing to do it carefully and remove even tiny bits of excess.

Interesting, I never heard/thought of pushing the caulk forward. I'll have to try that next time.

 

[MongGrel]

Silicone is great, I used to be big into fish tanks and used that all the time of course.

If you can rebuild a 55 gallon or larger fish tank and have it support all that water/pressure weight for decades on end, it's reliable stuff.

Prepping things is always a big factor. If you apply anything to dirt it will come loose.