Discussion Does anyone here 3D print?

[DesiPower]

What's the best, most popular entry level printer these days? Planning on ordering one this weekend, hoping on spending around 200 - 300, can go a bit higher if there's any significant advantage. Looking at this Monoprice Maker Select 3D Printer v2. The more expensive models have -
- Removable build plate
- Assisted leveling
- Filament sensor and
- Build plate temp of 110 vs this models 70

How much does these things matter? I have heard that leveling is can be difficult and even a nightmare, is that the case? Anything else I should be looking for in a good 3D printer?

Are there any better, more popular makes? I have heard about mods and spare parts, are they important?

 

[Red Squirrel]

I've been kind of curious myself of getting into it. I sometimes wonder if I'm making my life harder by not using windows as my main OS though. I would need to make sure that whatever one I get is Linux friendly. Ex: that the software works in Linux without jumping through a million hoops.

 

[dave_the_nerd]

I've been kind of curious myself of getting into it. I sometimes wonder if I'm making my life harder by not using windows as my main OS though. I would need to make sure that whatever one I get is Linux friendly. Ex: that the software works in Linux without jumping through a million hoops.

Cura is probably still the most popular controller software, and it's multiplatform. Haven't tried it on Linux but it works fine on Windows and MacOS.

A lot of the printers have their own OS - you just use Cura or another slicer app to generate a gcode file, feed the file to the printer, and it takes over from there. Raspberry Pi based 3D printer controllers/monitors are also popular.

Monoprice is pretty popular, and well regarded for cheap printers. Microcenter sells a few that are pretty decent too.

Too hot a build plate is as bad as too cold - whether or not 70 is "enough" depends on your materials.

I kinda want to get one of those resin based printers. The fine details come out a lot better.

 

[extide]

70C should be good for PLA, but you will have a tough time with ABS. Expect to do some fiddling to get the prints correct but yeah they can be pretty fun. We recently got a CraftBot XL at work to prototype parts that we will eventually have extruded out of aluminum. Masking those dies is expensive and takes a long time so it has been very helpful to us to be able to prototype parts and see them in person and see if they fit correctly, check for ease of installation, etc before committing to the die -- and has saved us a ton of money already. I will say it's been a bit challenging to get the parts to print correctly but we tend to be printing parts with a pretty high aspect ratio -- they are typically 2-3" wide, 4-5" tall, and 12-18" long. I think I finally have the settings kinda dialed in but it has taken a while to get there.

 

[Aikouka]

I own a Monoprice Maker Select V2, and it's an okay unit. The biggest problem is that some aspects of the unit are... kind of garbage, and you'll end up spending more just replacing parts. For example, I replaced the hotend (the nozzle + heater core area) with a nice one from MicroSwiss that doesn't use a plastic tube. (This means you can go a bit higher with temperatures.) Also, the build plate connects to a mounting plate which actually connects to the drive belts. On my Select V2, the mounting plate was awful... it's a thin piece of metal that bent very easily, and consequently, it was incredibly hard to ever dial in the unit.

That's the one thing... I was pretty much never able to get my Select V2 properly flat to print. I'm quite literally in the process of replacing almost everything on the unit apart from its T-structure and the motors. So, I'm using a new controller (faster, quieter, level-correction, etc.), new build surface, new mount surface, new heat pad. At this rate, it would be far easier to just buy a better unit to begin with.

A friend of mine does a bit with 3D printing and also as a hobbyist, so he purchased the Creality CR-10S and has been quite happy with it compared to his older models. He has also been telling me about a resin printer that he purchased recently and has been quite happy with. The only downside to resin is that the build volume is much smaller, but the detail on the units is very good compared to extrusion-based additive printing.

Also, if you have a Raspberry Pi lying around, you'll likely want to consider building up a unit for OctoPrint. It pretty much creates a nice web interface for your 3D printer!

70C should be good for PLA, but you will have a tough time with ABS.

I'd worry more about the lack of a controlled environment than just build plate temperature. ABS is notorious for wanting an enclosed case to keep temperatures moderated to avoid warping. On the other hand, PLA doesn't really have that issue and can be used in an open configuration.

 

[quikah]

I have an Ender 3. Seems to be the most popular cheap 3D printer. Works fine for me, though I don't do that much with it. Only complaint I have is it is kind of noisy, but there is a new board for it that supposedly fixes it. There is a pretty active ender3 subreddit, so you can get a lot of advice and tips on mods and settings.

 

[Aikouka]

I have an Ender 3. Seems to be the most popular cheap 3D printer. Works fine for me, though I don't do that much with it. Only complaint I have is it is kind of noisy, but there is a new board for it that supposedly fixes it. There is a pretty active ender3 subreddit, so you can get a lot of advice and tips on mods and settings.

Excessive noise is usually an issue with your motor controller. Your motor controller is what defines the stepping count, and lower counts often lead to more noise. Albeit, when you consider that each motor requires its own motor controller, things start to get a bit pricy. When I was choosing upgrade parts, I think it was... around $18 per controller for a... 1/128 stepping? (I might have the numbers wrong.) I went one lower, which was considerably cheaper at about $8 each. Sure, it's going to be a little noisier, but since I'd need five (one for X, one for Y, two for Z, and one for extruder), it's hard to ignore that savings. I can also upgrade them pretty easily in the future (install the new ones and change the configuration).

 

[DesiPower]

I have an Ender 3. Seems to be the most popular cheap 3D printer. Works fine for me, though I don't do that much with it. Only complaint I have is it is kind of noisy, but there is a new board for it that supposedly fixes it. There is a pretty active ender3 subreddit, so you can get a lot of advice and tips on mods and settings.

Does this look like official site of the maker to you? Looks like a very good deal

Creality 3D

Creality® 3D Printers Online Sale, Up to Extra $50 Coupon. Get original Creality 3D printers at the lowest price. Free shipping and 1-year warranty. The best printer under $200 Ender-3, largest print size CR-10 MAX, new arrival Ender3 pro. Creality sweet discount for you.

www.creality3d.shop

 

[extide]

Looks a little shady -- but they have an amazon store: https://www.amazon.com/stores/node/17936569011

 

[quikah]

There are a dozen places to buy the ender 3. I got mine from aliexpress
CREALITY 3D Official Store

https://creality3d.aliexpress.com/store/2846085

Didn't have any issues with shipping to California. Amazon official store is probably the safest if you are concerned.

Btw, when you get it I suggest watching a build video on YouTube to get some idea about the process since the documentation is not the best. Just search for ender 3 build.

 

[dave_the_nerd]

I'd worry more about the lack of a controlled environment than just build plate temperature. ABS is notorious for wanting an enclosed case to keep temperatures moderated to avoid warping. On the other hand, PLA doesn't really have that issue and can be used in an open configuration.

I've got an open-config Printrbot, and even with a heated bed and PLA... I usually start a run and then close the door so no drafts cause rapid or uneven cooling of the print. My cat has destroyed prints just by walking past them - 10 seconds later, half the print is curled up off the bed or something.

I totally should have gotten an enclosed one.

 

[Red Squirrel]

Yeah I imagine an enclosed one with a heater and/or fan to try to regulate the temp would be ideal. Could probably even build a cabinet for it then have the cabinet itself have it's own climate control system. Would need to experiment with what is the optimal temp but either way just want to keep it consistent I guess.

 

[quikah]

I've got an open-config Printrbot, and even with a heated bed and PLA... I usually start a run and then close the door so no drafts cause rapid or uneven cooling of the print. My cat has destroyed prints just by walking past them - 10 seconds later, half the print is curled up off the bed or something.

I totally should have gotten an enclosed one.

I have never really had any issues with PLA once the first few layers are down, though the location of my printer is pretty controlled anyway (small laundry room off the garage), haven't tried any other materials.

 

[Aikouka]

I've got an open-config Printrbot, and even with a heated bed and PLA... I usually start a run and then close the door so no drafts cause rapid or uneven cooling of the print. My cat has destroyed prints just by walking past them - 10 seconds later, half the print is curled up off the bed or something.

I totally should have gotten an enclosed one.

What's your usual bed temperature set to? I've had pretty good luck with PLA -- apart from my bed not being properly flat -- and I just usually run it off the dining room table. Although, I use a glass bed with higher bed temperatures.

Some people will just put a Rubbermaid container over their printer. It isn't perfect, but if you just need a simple cover, it works well enough. Plus, if you get a large, clear bin, you can still see the print!

 

[Midwayman]

What are you hoping to print? I have two printers

CR10- FDM great for large or structural parts. I use it a lot for cosplay type stuff and making terrain\accesories for gaming

Anycubic Photon- Resin. If you're looking for smaller, detailed prints, this is way better. Mini figures for gaming, decorative elements, etc. Depending on resin they can get close to FDM strength, but build volume can be limiting. Despite all the extra resin process I found this type of printer WAY easier to get good results from.

 

[Ichinisan]

I have a Creality CR-10 since 2017 and two Creality Ender-3 printers. Always printing something...

 

[DesiPower]

Finally decided on Creality Ender 3 Pro, placed order yesterday... Let's see how if goes!

I have heard that Tinkercad is a good way of designing your own models, any other easy websites or software out there for beginners? Also what is a good place to get free designs?

 

[quikah]

Finally decided on Creality Ender 3 Pro, placed order yesterday... Let's see how if goes!

I have heard that Tinkercad is a good way of designing your own models, any other easy websites or software out there for beginners? Also what is a good place to get free designs?

Fusion 360 is free for hobyists, though you need to "requalify" every year. Pretty powerful, but might be overkill/tough for beginners.

Fusion 360 for Personal Use | Fusion 360 | Autodesk

Download Fusion 360 for personal, non-commercial use. Get access to free CAD, CAM, CAE and PCB software for qualifying individuals here.

www.autodesk.com

Thingiverse has lots of models for download

Thingiverse - Digital Designs for Physical Objects

Download millions of 3D models and files for your 3D printer, laser cutter, or CNC. From custom parts to unique designs, you can find them on Thingive

www.thingiverse.com

 

[Paratus]

Edit: just saw you already bought one. Good Luck!

I’ve got a Flashforge Finder. It costs $200-$300, has bed leveling assist, nice touch screen controls, and a removable print tray. It can produce some very nice prints.

The cons for it are no heated bed so it’s limited to PLA printing, smaller print volume of 140mm^3, somewhat proprietary g-code, and I’ve been having bed adhesion issues for large flat prints which a heated bed would probably help.

 

[DesiPower]

Edit: just saw you already bought one. Good Luck!

I’ve got a Flashforge Finder. It costs $200-$300, has bed leveling assist, nice touch screen controls, and a removable print tray. It can produce some very nice prints.

The cons for it are no heated bed so it’s limited to PLA printing, smaller print volume of 140mm^3, somewhat proprietary g-code, and I’ve been having bed adhesion issues for large flat prints which a heated bed would probably help.

View attachment 11422View attachment 11423

Woah! that a pretty cool rocket you get there! who much spool/KG of filament did it need? Also, where did you get design from?

 

[DesiPower]

Fusion 360 is free for hobyists, though you need to "requalify" every year. Pretty powerful, but might be overkill/tough for beginners.

Fusion 360 for Personal Use | Fusion 360 | Autodesk

Download Fusion 360 for personal, non-commercial use. Get access to free CAD, CAM, CAE and PCB software for qualifying individuals here.

www.autodesk.com

Thingiverse has lots of models for download

Thingiverse - Digital Designs for Physical Objects

Download millions of 3D models and files for your 3D printer, laser cutter, or CNC. From custom parts to unique designs, you can find them on Thingive

www.thingiverse.com

Thanks! will bookmark them

 

[Ichinisan]

Today, I bought a Dymo LabelWriter 450 from the Goodwill thrift store for $4. The threaded spool thing was missing.

Downloaded the model from Thingiverse and I'm printing it now...

 

[Paratus]

Woah! that a pretty cool rocket you get there! who much spool/KG of filament did it need? Also, where did you get design from?

It’s an SLS block 1 model from Thingiverse

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2681457

It took two weeks of printing at night to finish it. It probably took about two thirds of a spool. It was part of a science project for my daughter. I taught her how to setup the machine and use the slicer program.

 

[Midwayman]

I will be super sad if they ever kill the free edition of fusion 360. That program is amazing for designing function parts. (Or mechanical stuff in general) If you're more looking for organics I'd learn sculptris. Its also free and amazing for doing super high detail surfaces. (Its a watered down z-brush by the same people)

 

[DesiPower]

I will

It’s an SLS block 1 model from Thingiverse

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2681457

It took two weeks of printing at night to finish it. It probably took about two thirds of a spool. It was part of a science project for my daughter. I taught her how to setup the machine and use the slicer program.

Wow nice, I was just trying to guestimate how long a spool lasts... They seem to be expensive.

Where do you guys generally get your filaments from? Who much do you generally pay?