Does anybody have a good tut on opening

[uethello]

I got a PII 333 that I want to open up. I skipped the slot cpus, anybody got a good tutorial?

 

[stevty2889]

..it depends on if you want it to still be functional after opening it..lol

 

[uethello]

I'm not too stupid to use a BFH, I'm talking about using a little finesse here.


I'm upgrading a possible linux rig cause I got another cpu basically free. But it doesn't have a housing, just the bare board/cpu.

 

[Zap]

There were three different slot 1 packages.

SECC - Fully enclosed, back is plastic, front is aluminum plate. Typically used with Pentium II and "Katmai" Pentium III.

SECCII = Half enclosed, back is plastic, front is bare CPU. Typically used with "Coppermine" Pentium III.

SEPP - Completely open front/back. Typically used with Celeron.

 

[uethello]

PII 333... that would be the Pentium 2 SECC package...

 

[uethello]

OK, Found a hsf to go directly on the bare slug, rather than changing out housings. Thanks for your help

 

[JDCentral]

Isn't SECC the ones with the HS bolted to the cpu?

Or something ultra-intelligent like that?

 

[uethello]

I think so, as I said. I have very little experience with slot processors. I saw them and knew I didn't like them. This one has a heat spreader "bolted" in some fashion against the cpu. The hsf is attached to this.

The hsf just unclipped. Actually removing the housing from the processor board is a different matter, applying pressure to various points/seams does not produce the desired freeing effect upon the processor. Do I merely need to increase the amount of force applied? Anyone with first hand experience?

 

[JDCentral]

Dunno... the one that I bought, second-hand, had little rivets through the HSF and through the case/silicon.

It doesn't seem like that's the case w/ your, though 😉

 

[uethello]

Just decided to reply to the OP here as I now have 1st hand experience. In case somebody Googles and comes across this. There appears to be three main pieces to the PII packaging, a plastic backing, a metal front (heat spreader for direct cpu contact), and a thin-ish plastic piece underneath the metal heat spreader.

1. the thin plastic piece underneath the heat spreader must come off first. There are two spots on the plastic, up against the heat spreader (hereafter : "spreader") that appear made to put a straight screwdriver, turning it to pull the plastic away from the spreader. Do so. If you applied NINJA FORCE! the plastic came off and you see the long arrow-ish thingies that went up into the housing to hold it on and you're wondering what they scraped, pulled, and snapped off trying to keep the plastic piece on. NOT to worry, if you used your NINJA SENSE! while removing, you were able to keep breakage to a minimum.

2. Read "the art of war"

3. Now put the straight screwdriver into the seam where the spreader touches plastic on the metal sides (where there may or may not be little handle thingies that are used to keep the CPU/housing in place when in the SLOT). Time for more NINJA FORCE! You will probably see that the little handle thingies come out and are part of the mechanism keeping the housing together.

4. There should be a total of 6 studs that are pressed in to the metal spreader. These go through the PCB and into the plastic backing. You are now at the most sensitive point. Meditate....NINJA SENSE! must be at least 10. You need to seperate the plastic backing from the spreader. Grasp the spreader and bend the plastic away from it, TRY not to bend the spreader. The PCB will rest on the pressed in studs, so should be OK. Once the plastic portion of the housing is pulled away, you have only to pick off any black plastic left on the studs then remove the PCB


Remember! If you break the PCB, My Kung-Fu is BETTER!