Do you think this is a power supply problem?

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JoeFahey

Platinum Member
Jan 15, 2005
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Well, I have recently started having a problem with my computer. It will sometimes not power on. And sometimes when it does, it will go on for about 3 seconds, and then power off. What I have been doing is on plugging the power cord, and plugging it back in, and then flipping the power swtich off and on, and it will sometimes go on, and stay on. But now it wont do anything. The time it stays on is decreasing. I checked the AC flowing in from the cord, and its a good 115-120 Volts. The switch on back of the power supply is switched to the USA standard. I do have a poor wiring job, where it might cause, heat, but this computer has worked fine for the year that Ive had it since I built it 2 X-mases ago.
The computer is running off an AMD 64 3500+, an MSI k8n neo2 plat, a 160 Seagate HD, a 9800 pro vid card, and I have a 5.1 speaker system running off the onboard sound.

The power supply is a 420 Watt Thermaltake (it came with the thermaltake case) , and I think should be enough power, it has worked for over a year. I also havent attached any new hardware recently.
What do you think is the problem? AnythingI should try?

THANKS!!!
 
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pkme2

Diamond Member
Sep 30, 2005
3,896
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PSU acting up! Time to change to Fortron, Enermax, or Seasonic. Your choice.
Quik check, substitute another PSU. If nothing happens, PSU.
If something happens, its mobo. Usually, its the PSU. Good hunting.
 
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JoeFahey

Platinum Member
Jan 15, 2005
2,163
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Originally posted by: pkme2
PSU acting up! Time to change to Fortron, Enermax, or Seasonic. Your choice.
Quik check, substitute another PSU. If nothing happens, PSU.
If something happens, its mobo. Usually, its the PSU. Good hunting.
Click to expand...

You mean if somthing happens with a sub., its the psu, right?
 
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stevty2889

Diamond Member
Dec 13, 2003
7,036
8
81
Sounds a lot like what my POS 420 thermaltake PSU did right before it died..but could also be an overheating problem. My bet is the PSU..thermaltake PSU's are far from the best, and have weak 12v rails.
 
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Luckyboy1

Senior member
Mar 13, 2006
934
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I know a guy who purchased against my advice a case that came with that power supply and he granted, had a video card that ate more power than yours', but evcerything else was the same and he had the same problem from jump. He replaced the power supply with a 520 watt OCZ Powerstream model and it worked fine.
 
JEDIYoda

JEDIYoda

Lifer
Jul 13, 2005
33,986
3,320
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I also know a guy who purchased against my advice a case that came with that power supply and he granted, had a video card that ate more power than yours', but evcerything else was the same and he had the same problem from jump. He replaced the power supply with a PC Power & Cooling TURBO-COOL® 510 DELUXE model and it worked fine. :)

 
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Luckyboy1

Senior member
Mar 13, 2006
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Exactly Yedi! Please don't assume that even though the example I gave you was a good choice, that it's your only choice!
 
SparkyJJO

SparkyJJO

Lifer
May 16, 2002
13,357
7
81
Antecs are decent PSUs too - I'm on my 4th and never had any trouble with any of them. Well, except that I keep having to upgrade because of power usage :p
 
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JoeFahey

Platinum Member
Jan 15, 2005
2,163
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Ok, well, after starting to unplug all the connections, I noticed what I thought to be "burn marks" on the motherboard power p1 connection. Two of the platic casings for the pins are burned, and one had the plastic burned of, and sitting in the motherboard connection.

How could this have happened? And could this be the only reason my computer isn't working?

Oh, and sorry, I dont have any pics.
 
SparkyJJO

SparkyJJO

Lifer
May 16, 2002
13,357
7
81
Originally posted by: JoeFahey1
Ok, well, after starting to unplug all the connections, I noticed what I thought to be "burn marks" on the motherboard power p1 connection. Two of the platic casings for the pins are burned, and one had the plastic burned of, and sitting in the motherboard connection.

How could this have happened? And could this be the only reason my computer isn't working?

Oh, and sorry, I dont have any pics.
Click to expand...

If you have burned connections that could easily be the only problem. Burned connections usually mean a short or overload of some sort.

Test the system with another PSU, if it still acts up, the mobo is probably a goner. Just to be safe I wouldn't test the current PSU in another system in case it is a cuplrit. Don't need 2 dead systems.
 
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Luckyboy1

Senior member
Mar 13, 2006
934
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Burnt connectors are a defnate sign of power starvation. If a given power supply can't give the watts needed to run stuff at a given wattage, it will still try to do so at a lower voltage the only way it can. That means it has to increase the amps given at the lower voltages to supply the needed power in wattage and more amps means more heat.

Replace that door stop of a power supply before cranking it up again.
 
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GalvanizedYankee

Diamond Member
Oct 27, 2003
6,986
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Clean the male pins of any residue as best you can. Use a very narrow bladed screw driver. Inspect them with a magnifying glass, to be sure they are clean. Coat with some type of protectant before hooking up the better, new PSU. Protectant?? At the very least, WD-40 from a Q-Tip. Dielectric silicone if you have it, just a lite coat mind you.


...Galvanized
 
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Luckyboy1

Senior member
Mar 13, 2006
934
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I'd say keep the WD-40 away from anything that sparks. It is just too flammable for that. Yes Galvanized, I already know there's no way 5 volts or in most cases that even 12 volts will cause a fire based on spark alone. However, the power supply in most cases sends out power based on the "sense strand" which is a monitor of what power is actually making it to the board in question. As the connection cr@ps out, not only is there more heat at that connection, but the power supply will ramp up the voltages to the part in an attempt to give what it thinks should be delivered.

Yes, the possiblilty is small, but NOT impossible and dielectric grease is available at about every auto parts store, so why use anything less?

I think at this point, the original poster will benefit from reading my psychotic diatribe on heating and power issues at the end of Luckyboy's Guide For Complete Users. When troubleshooting power problems, you should NOT start at the board or even the power supply. Remember, garbage in = garbage out.
 
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GalvanizedYankee

Diamond Member
Oct 27, 2003
6,986
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Spraying WD-40 over an open flame is not to be done. The reducers in WD-40 evaporate
quite guickly. That's why I said *Q-Tip* application. Cleaning a burnt male pin is requiored
and doing so will abrate the flash of tin, exposing the parent brass. WD-40 would protect
it from oxidation and the resistance it might offer.

I use ProGold from http://www.caig.com/ and do not believe in dry connections.

If you like, my posts can be deleted from this thread. NBD ;)

BTW, did you ever resolve your cap issue or were you just playing like JEDI does :D


...Galvanized
 
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Luckyboy1

Senior member
Mar 13, 2006
934
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No, it still is a cap issue.

An excellent link by the way Galvanized! Deleting isn't needed and yes, I saw you write down in your response the q-tip deal. Still, I know the less than enlightened types will gloss over that idea and start spraying. Then they'd be mad enough to come back here and whine! Also, it is that volitile stage of the WD-40 product that gets you the best cleaning results. Still, as long as they've been warned of the very, very slight possibility, easpecially if the partially disregard your instructions!... let's just say if Galvanized took the time to ad the words something like...

apply with a q-tip

he did so for a reason and those who edit the instructions do so at their own risk!

 
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JoeFahey

Platinum Member
Jan 15, 2005
2,163
1
0
Well, I ordered a new Enermax Liberty 500W psu.

I also cleaned out all the burnt plastic casings from the old TT psu. But it still looks a little dirty down in the mobo connection where the burnt psu pin was. Are you saying that I should put some WD-40 on a q-tip, and apply it to the mobo pins?
 
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Luckyboy1

Senior member
Mar 13, 2006
934
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That will help, but even though I've never tried it, I'd default to the product Galvanized linked to earlier in this thread.
 
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GalvanizedYankee

Diamond Member
Oct 27, 2003
6,986
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WD-40 is common that's why I said to use it *AFTER*the male pin is cleaned.
If the *MALE* pin *ON* the board got burnt a little, that burnt surface will present some
resistance. Clean it by scraping it with a narrow straight bladed screw driver...Got it.

Because small burnt particals will hold the *FEMALE* pin away from the *MALE* pin,
preventing good contact. The WD-40 is just to protect the abrated surface of the *MALE*
pin...OK

WD-40 is a Water Dispersant but it will protect from oxidation.

If I were doing this job. The motherboard WOULD be removed from the case.

It might be a good idea to look at the backside of the motherboard.


...Galvanized
 
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