Do You Think a 365w PSU is sufficient for a Radeon 6850?

Madmick

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Recently, a friend of mine who is an IT administrator gave my brother and I some computers his corporation was e-wasting: they're stock HP Compaq dc7900 Convertible Minitower PCs. Everything is stock except the hard drives (since he had to degauss the stock hard drives with customer account info on them), but he was able to scrounge some 500GB internal hard drives which I assume consume roughly the same power as stock. The only thing they came without was a video card. I was looking at the Radeon 6850 since it's so remarkable in its class for performance/dollar and performance/watt.

The PSU is a 365w with a total of 26.65 Amps on the 12V rails. I can't find it now, but somewhere in a forum I learned that the stock setup for this computer eats ~13 Amps on the 12V rails. The peak power consumption rating for the Radeon 6850= 127w. So 127/12= 10.6 Amps. This brings my total amp consumption to ~23.6 Amps: leaving roughly 3 Amps in reserve.

Assuming that I don't install other power consuming hardware (like additional hard drives), do you guys think this is sufficient to drive the Radeon 6850? I'm concerned because I've seen some general forum statements online that suggest that PSU's output diminishes over time and that it's generally not optimal to consistently demand more than 80% of its peak power production if you wish to prolong its life.

Here's the AnandTech chart I used to compare video card performance around this class:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/4221/nvidias-gtx-550-ti-coming-up-short-at-150/5
I would really prefer not having to step down to something like the 6670 (which has a peak power consumption of 67 watts) when it costs roughly half the $130 for the 6850, but delivers less than half the performance:
http://www.hwcompare.com/10856/radeon-hd-6670-oem-1gb-vs-radeon-hd-6850/

Nevertheless, the PSU can handle what it can handle.
 

dma0991

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Mar 17, 2011
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If it comes with a 6 pin PCIE power by default, get the HD6850. If you have to use a molex to 6 pin PCIE power adapter, go with the HD6670. Even with a HD6850, you won't be using it at constant peak power. I would push it with the HD6850 and if it breaks, I'd get an off the shelf replacement. If it is a non ATX standard PSU, play safe with it.
 

aaksheytalwar

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Feb 17, 2012
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The thing is a Seasonic 365w will cut it easily. But a crappy 365w will in reality just give 150w or so and that won't be enough. So unless it is a top notch brand, the answer is no
 

DigDog

Lifer
Jun 3, 2011
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The thing is a Seasonic 365w will cut it easily. But a crappy 365w will in reality just give 150w or so and that won't be enough. So unless it is a top notch brand, the answer is no
+1

Rosewill has been putting out some pretty decent (read: not completely shit) high wattage PSUs for really little money, i'd take a look into that if i were you.
 

dma0991

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Mar 17, 2011
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The thing is a Seasonic 365w will cut it easily. But a crappy 365w will in reality just give 150w or so and that won't be enough. So unless it is a top notch brand, the answer is no
Don't underestimate the PSUs that come with OEM desktops. An Acer desktop (Athlon64 3800+) of mine with a Delta 250W is still going strong, re-purposed as a PC for my parents with SB.
 

Madmick

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If it comes with a 6 pin PCIE power by default, get the HD6850. If you have to use a molex to 6 pin PCIE power adapter, go with the HD6670. Even with a HD6850, you won't be using it at constant peak power. I would push it with the HD6850 and if it breaks, I'd get an off the shelf replacement. If it is a non ATX standard PSU, play safe with it.
It's an ATX board, but the PCIE power cable appears to be a 4-pin. I used this page to reference:
http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html
The connector I see looks exactly like the one labeled "4 Pin ATX + 12V Power Cable", except the cables are Black & Brown, not Black and Yellow.

There's another set of cables (black, red, yellow) protruding from the PSU and feeding into a white casing labeled "P6" that appears to be a Molex connector. It looks like this:
250px-Molex_female_connector.jpg


I'm guessing this means I have to go with the 6670 or buy a new PSU. Do you think a 430w could handle the 6850?

This Corsair 430W PSU is just $27 after shipping and the rebate:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139026

And right now the XFX-branded Radeon 6850 is just $120 at NewEgg after the rebate:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...N82E1681415057

I really didn't want to spend money replacing parts I got for free, but this is so tempting.
 
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aaksheytalwar

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Feb 17, 2012
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But you need to be sure that the one in his pc can handle his system with a 6850. with a quality psu you are sure, otherwise it is just luck. I once artifacted with a 350 watts psu with pentium 4 1.7ghz stock with one hdd with stock 9800pro. It was the psu, not the card. It was a generic psu. A Seasonic or corsair would have had no problem at all
 

aaksheytalwar

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Feb 17, 2012
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That 430watts should do fine with a 6850 stock with a regular stock CPU and 1 hdd. Even with fur ark load I guess :)
 

dma0991

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I really didn't want to spend money replacing parts I got for free, but this is so tempting.
There are no 4pin PCIE power cable AFAIK. It should only be a 6,6+2 or 8. What you have there might be an EPS cable or a spare EPS.

Go with the CX430 or better yet a CX500. Not due to the fact that there is insufficient power but I find 500w to be a sweet spot where it supports pretty much any mid range GPUs should you find a need to upgrade to a better one. You don't have to if you can't find a good deal on the CX500, the CX430 fits the bill perfectly. Do a double check if the current PSU uses standard mounting holes that most off the shelf PSU uses.
 

bryanW1995

Lifer
May 22, 2007
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It's an ATX board, but the PCIE power cable appears to be a 4-pin. I used this page to reference:
http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html
The connector I see looks exactly like the one labeled "4 Pin ATX + 12V Power Cable", except the cables are Black & Brown, not Black and Yellow.

There's another set of cables (black, red, yellow) protruding from the PSU and feeding into a white casing labeled "P6" that appears to be a Molex connector. It looks like this:

I'm guessing this means I have to go with the 6670 or buy a new PSU. Do you think a 430w could handle the 6850?

This Corsair 430W PSU is just $27 after shipping and the rebate:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139026

And right now the XFX-branded Radeon 6850 is just $120 at NewEgg after the rebate:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...N82E1681415057

I really didn't want to spend money replacing parts I got for free, but this is so tempting.

I just bought that corsair 430w for one of my work computers. That will be $27 well spent!
 

krumme

Diamond Member
Oct 9, 2009
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One computer in the house runs a core2 3.7Ghz plus 6850 non oc from a old fanless 300watt supply with molex. Try, if it works it works, and you saved time. All this powersuply is overrated ! haha.
Remember, the closer you get to max for the ps, the higher the efficiency = saved electricity.
 

Avalon

Diamond Member
Jul 16, 2001
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Since you're lacking a 6pin PCI-e connector and that OEM PSU is likely crap (the HP ones usually are), then your options are as previously mentioned...

Either grab a 6670, or upgrade the PSU and go for the 6850. Just depends on how much you want to spend.
 

blastingcap

Diamond Member
Sep 16, 2010
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One computer in the house runs a core2 3.7Ghz plus 6850 non oc from a old fanless 300watt supply with molex. Try, if it works it works, and you saved time. All this powersuply is overrated ! haha.
Remember, the closer you get to max for the ps, the higher the efficiency = saved electricity.

PSUs are typically most efficient at about 40-60% of rated max wattage, and less efficient at the extremes (under 20% and over 90%).

OP, kudos for doing your homework and looking at the 12V power draw.

The short answer: if you plan to use the PC a lot, then upgrade to a more efficient PSU that will pay for itself over time. I recommend the Capstone 450 Gold series found on Newegg (and reviewed by Anandtech: http://www.anandtech.com/show/5698/rosewill-capstone-450w-and-650w-80plus-gold ), though prices are a little high right now (I got mine for ~$65. It's now $10 higher.) Else your existing PSU is probably adequate, even using the too-high-sounding 13 amp estimate for the CPU TDP.

The long answer: 13 amps sounds awfully high for the 12V rail w/o a GPU. It should only be servicing the CPU and GPU; I doubt that any other components are drawing from the 12V rail. What CPU does it have so that it's drawing 13 amps = 156 watts? I would look up the CPU model number and find out its TDP. Divide by 12 and you get its true peak draw.

Then add in 10 amps for the video card's worst case scenario.

Without knowing the real TDP of your CPU it is impossible to know how much room you have to work with.

Keep in mind that these are worst case scenarios. In practice you will rarely see both the CPU and GPU at 100% load at the same time on a continuous basis. Look at online reviews that measure system peak draw and you will see what I mean... adding up TDPs of all components is the theoretical worst case scenario, but it never happens, even when playing demanding games like Crysis.

You are right that it is not good to demand 80% of peak power, unless it's a rock solid make like a good-quality, new Seasonic PSU or something. That means 292 watts for your PSU. (Maybe slightly less, because capacitors age so the rated capacity of a PSU will diminish over time... but this happens very slowly.)

I would leave ~50 watts of cushion for your mobo, RAM, USB sockets, optical and hard drives, etc. since they will almost never all max out at the same time, either.

I would still go for a more efficient PSU as it will save money in the long run, but I wouldn't worry about the one you've got for now. Or if you don't plan on using the PC much so there isn't much run time in which to recover the upgrade cost.
 
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bryanW1995

Lifer
May 22, 2007
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A dying psu will often take down other things as well, but $75 seems like a lot for that capstone psu. Spend the $27 for the corsair, you're being thrifty and smart at the same time!
 

blastingcap

Diamond Member
Sep 16, 2010
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A dying psu will often take down other things as well, but $75 seems like a lot for that capstone psu. Spend the $27 for the corsair, you're being thrifty and smart at the same time!

That PSU goes on sale for even less than that sometimes, actually. And even at $27, it's a good compromise if the OP doesn't plan to use the PC that often.

For those who leave their PCs idling 24/7 and can't/don't want to turn off their PCs, the higher efficiency PSUs really shine. The Capstone 10% load efficiency is very good (86% on 115V AC) whereas the Corsair is at 74%. (Though it's more like 82 vs. 74 if you compare 44 vs 43 watts.) The Capstone also has a 140mm ball-bearing fan whereas the longevity of the Corsair's smaller 120mm sleeve-bearing fan is likely to be decent or good, but not great. Reviews here for the Corsair and Capstone, respectively (Super Flower makes the Capstone PSU for Newegg): http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&file=print&reid=239 vs http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&file=print&reid=250 (Unfortunately, jonny did not test decibel level but I suspect the Capstone/Super Flower design is a little quieter thanks to its better fan.)

If OP gets free electricity or never idles, then that changes things some more, obviously. :) But yes your suggestion is a good one as well if the OP doesn't use the PC enough to recoup costs via lower electric bills.
 
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Madmick

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The long answer: 13 amps sounds awfully high for the 12V rail w/o a GPU. It should only be servicing the CPU and GPU; I doubt that any other components are drawing from the 12V rail. What CPU does it have so that it's drawing 13 amps = 156 watts? I would look up the CPU model number and find out its TDP. Divide by 12 and you get its true peak draw...

I would leave ~50 watts of cushion for your mobo, RAM, USB sockets, optical and hard drives, etc. since they will almost never all max out at the same time, either.
Glad that you pointed this out. The ~13 Amp figure (for CPU + everything else) was a figure I saw quoted at some forum yielded by a Google search for info on a video card this system could handle. I think it's way, way too high.

Here's the general specifications for this computer:
HP Compaq CD7900 Minitower Convertible PC
http://h10010.www1.hp.com/wwpc/ca/e...87-3328898-3328898-3784892-3785379.html?dnr=1
And here's the specifications for the Intel Core 2 Duo 3GHz processor:
http://ark.intel.com/products/33910/Intel-Core2-Duo-Processor-E8400-%286M-Cache-3_00-GHz-1333-MHz-FSB%29

That page suggests a Max TDP of 65W for this CPU. That's 65/12= 5.4 Amps. Added to the 10.6 Amps for the Radeon 6850= 16.0 Amps total between the GPU & CPU. So even if I add the ~50W you suggest as breathing room for Mobo + RAM + everything else, my total Amp demands on the 12V rail are ~20.2 Amps. That puts my peak consumption at roughly 75%.

That seems like a fair estimate. When I opened the tower and was looking at the PCI cords I noticed that the new internal hard drive specified only an 0.25 Amp requirement on the 12V rail, or a 6 watt demand. Ergo, in summary, I think the 6850 will clear by a mile with this PSU assuming that it doesn't grossly underperform like some nightmarish PSU's described in this thread. If it fries, I can always order that cheap Corsair.

After all, this computer was a freebie, and I want to put as little into it as possible. Right now I'm on the highest end Intel MacBook Pro that's about 3 years old (don't hiss). So with this PC, even though I don't play many games anymore, I figured I'd try out Mass Effect 3 on it. Gaming demands have trended down hard due to the console market taking over, so I was hoping the 6850 could run it just below max settings on a 1920x1200 display at 30+ FPS.

Along that line there's one expense I'm considering: RAM. It currently has 6GB DDR2 RAM (2x2GB + 2x1GB). It would run me $108 at Amazon for 2x4GB Komputer Bay PC2 5300 DDR2 RAM to upgrade to 12GB RAM total. Or it would run me about $55 for 2x2GB GSkill PC2 6400 DDR2 RAM to upgrade to 8GB RAM total.

Do you think either of these RAM upgrades are worth it or necessary for a casual gaming build? I do have a 27" Planar 1920x1200 display (if that matters...it's my understanding that larger screens tend to be more demanding even with equal resolution).
 
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aaksheytalwar

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Feb 17, 2012
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You really think a generic psu can give its rated amperage. If it states 20 you will probably get 8-12 tops, if it is a generic psu. Even branded lower level plus will probably give about 12-16 or so. Only a good psu will give 18-22+. And ideally you shouldn't put more than 70% stress on that thing ever. So if you need 20a get one which can guarantee 28a continuously. A generic 28a will still guarantee at most 15a and isn't recommended. A corsair 400+ would do a neat job,
 

Madmick

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*Edit Delete. Check Post #22. I got confused because I didn't see my post. For now, it appears a mod has to approve all of my posts.
 
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blastingcap

Diamond Member
Sep 16, 2010
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No prob.

1) I have never seen systems max out every component at the same time. So if you add up everything that is overstating the realistic maximum peak power draw.

2) TDP can be overestimated, as Anandtech reviews have proven over and over again, AMD/Intel overstate TDP a lot of the time. So the E8400 may actually draw even less than 65W peak.

3) On the other hand it's nice to have a little overclocking headroom (I don't think that mobo lets you OC the CPU, but you can OC the 6850 which will add another 10-20 watts to system load).

I figure that those three things cancel each other out.

A budget of 50 watts ought to more than cover the non-CPU/GPU parts. Hard drives and optical drives consume about 5-10 watts each. A mobo that isn't using its IGP (since you will have a graphics card) probably uses another 10 watts. And RAM doesn't use that much, another 5 watts per stick at most. Same for CPU and case fans, USB keyboards and mice which draw relatively little power (the maximum a USB 2.0 device can draw is 2.5 watts, and it's unlikely your keyboard and mouse hit the max).

In short, you can game on your existing hardware with no problems. The main difference between a strong office PC (one with a decent CPU) and a gaming rig is literally the video card. That's about the only major difference. Compaq is reputable so they probably used a reputable PSU maker like Delta or something. Think about it: why would Compaq use crappy PSUs in their PCs that don't even make spec? Doing that would invite lawsuits and hurt their reputations. The doomsayers are thinking about less-reputable companies who don't care if they give customers out-of-spec PSUs. Compaq/HP/Dell use legit PSUs. Maybe not the best, but they are in spec new. Maybe the capacitors suck more and they lose max wattage faster, but you've still got a thick margin for error.

Also, to that guy above me: where is this "don't ever put 70% load on it" stuff coming from, wtf. 242 watts isn't even 75% of rated PSU max load; it's more like 67% load anyway. And you seriously think Compaq uses out of spec PSUs? Also, going to about 80% is fine, 70% is very conservative. In fact you could go even higher to something like 90%+ load as long as its a good PSU and at good temperatures. Which would you rather have: a PSU running at 60% of max wattage inside a 100 degree F sauna, or a PSU running at 80% of max wattage in a 60 degree F basement? Yeah, that's what I thought.

Also, I remember gaming on an ancient Dell before with a 300W PSU that probably had something like 220W load on it. It did fine.

One of my old rigs was very similar to what yours would be. I got a stock E8400 + 3GB DDR2 RAM + slightly oc'd HD 5850 and was able to play at very high settings for every game I had not named Crysis, on my 1920x1200 Dell Ultrasharp monitor that I used to have. You will easily hit 30 fps in Mass Effect 3, even with eye candy at fairly high settings, and even at 1920x1200 or 1080p. Certain games like Crysis, BF3, etc. you might have to turn down a few settings or play without AA, but otherwise you should be fine.

Higher resolutions or more AA need more VRAM, not more system RAM. 1GB of VRAM is sufficient as long as you don't game at 2560x1440 or higher, or crank up AA a lot (AA eats VRAM like candy). You get diminishing returns on AA anyway so even if I had infinite GPU power and VRAM I probably wouldn't go over 4x MSAA, personally. If you are hitting a VRAM wall just turn AA to 2x or just turn it all the way off and that will almost surely solve your problem.

As for AF, Vsync, etc. they take up some VRAM too but not nearly as much as AA. You should almost always max out AF because it barely affects performance and doesn't eat that much VRAM, and it improves the image quality significantly from certain angles.

Imho, 12GB of system RAM is unnecessary even for a modern gaming rig, let alone a casual one. This is because games just aren't pushing the envelope like they used to, like you said. You could get away with as little as 3GB DDR2 and be okay in almost all games. I am not speculating, as my old system had that amount and did fine.

Glad that you pointed this out. The ~13 Amp figure (for CPU + everything else) was a figure I saw quoted at some forum yielded by a Google search for info on a video card this system could handle. I think it's way, way too high.

Here's the general specifications for this computer:
HP Compaq CD7900 Minitower Convertible PC
http://h10010.www1.hp.com/wwpc/ca/e...87-3328898-3328898-3784892-3785379.html?dnr=1
And here's the specifications for the Intel Core 2 Duo 3GHz processor:
http://ark.intel.com/products/33910/Intel-Core2-Duo-Processor-E8400-%286M-Cache-3_00-GHz-1333-MHz-FSB%29

That page suggests a Max TDP of 65W for this CPU. That's 65/12= 5.4 Amps. Added to the 10.6 Amps for the Radeon 6850= 16.0 Amps total between the GPU & CPU. So even if I add the ~50W you suggest as breathing room for Mobo + RAM + everything else, my total Amp demands on the 12V rail are ~20.2 Amps. That puts my peak consumption at roughly 75%.

That seems like a fair estimate. When I opened the tower and was looking at the PCI cords I noticed that the new internal hard drive specified only an 0.25 Amp requirement on the 12V rail, or a 6 watt demand. Ergo, in summary, I think the 6850 will clear by a mile with this PSU assuming that it doesn't grossly underperform like some nightmarish PSU's described in this thread. If it fries, I can always order that cheap Corsair.

After all, this computer was a freebie, and I want to put as little into it as possible. Right now I'm on the highest end Intel MacBook Pro that's about 3 years old (don't hiss). So with this PC, even though I don't play many games anymore, I figured I'd try out Mass Effect 3 on it. Gaming demands have trended down hard due to the console market taking over, so I was hoping the 6850 could run it just below max settings on a 1920x1200 display at 30+ FPS.

Along that line there's one expense I'm considering: RAM. It currently has 6GB DDR2 RAM (2x2GB + 2x1GB). It would run me $108 at Amazon for 2x4GB Komputer Bay PC2 5300 DDR2 RAM to upgrade to 12GB RAM total. Or it would run me about $55 for 2x2GB GSkill PC2 6400 DDR2 RAM to upgrade to 8GB RAM total.

Do you think either of these RAM upgrades are worth it or necessary for a casual gaming build? I do have a 27" Planar 1920x1200 display (if that matters...it's my understanding that larger screens tend to be more demanding even with equal resolution).
 
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Madmick

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Apr 7, 2012
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Also, to that guy above me: where is this "don't ever put 70% load on it" stuff coming from, wtf. 242 watts isn't even 75% of rated PSU max load; it's more like 67% load anyway. And you seriously think Compaq uses out of spec PSUs? Also, going to about 80% is fine, 70% is very conservative. In fact you could go even higher to something like 90%+ load as long as its a good PSU and at good temperatures. Which would you rather have: a PSU running at 60% of max wattage inside a 100 degree F sauna, or a PSU running at 80% of max wattage in a 60 degree F basement? Yeah, that's what I thought.

In short, you can game on your existing hardware with no problems. The main difference between a strong office PC (one with a decent CPU) and a gaming rig is literally the video card. That's about the only major difference. Compaq is reputable so they probably used a reputable PSU maker like Delta or something. Think about it: why would Compaq use crappy PSUs in their PCs that don't even make spec? Doing that would invite lawsuits and hurt their reputations. The doomsayers are thinking about less-reputable companies who don't care if they give customers out-of-spec PSUs. Compaq/HP/Dell use legit PSUs. Maybe not the best, but they are in spec new. Maybe the capacitors suck more and they lose max wattage faster, but you've still got a thick margin for error.
Ah, nice, this settles my mind. This echoed my reaction to his post because I googled that PSU Calculator someone recommended, plugged in values for the entire system as it is, plugged in the Radeon 6850, and it quoted a minimum wattage of 240w (20 Amps) with a recommended 290w (24.2 Amps). That's falls exactly into the low-high range of estimates developed in this thread.

Yet if I plug in no video card at all into their calculator it spits out a minimum 146w (12.2 Amps) with a recommended 190w (16.3 Amps). Ergo, if I were to believe him, then this PSU barely has enough amperage to drive itself, and certainly consumes more than 70% of his asserted power production of a 26.65 Amp "generic PSU", so it couldn't reliably support any video card. I know this to be false since my IT friend also gave us a computer of this same model for my best friend, and my friend has installed a lower end NVIDIA GT card (I can't remember which) that probably eats between 60w-100w, and he's running fine on it.

Obviously, I don't want to burn out my PSU (and therein risk overheating and damaging other components), but he didn't provide any evidence like a feature article from AnandTech, Engadget, or Tom's Hardware to support his assertions, and I'm the type of person who relies on empirical data.


I noticed that PC gaming's demands have trended downward steeply since I last owned and operated a PC before I went to college. I'm actually a fan of this- I like not having to spend $1500 on a rig to max most games. I'll heed your warning and use the minimum anti-aliasing with everything else maxed. I'm glad to hear this, too, because I am aware that ME3 is no Crysis, and from that AnandTech benchmark review I figured the 6850 would handle it or just about any other game I wanted to play, but I wasn't sure. So you saved me money on the RAM, too. For the grand total of $120 on the XFX 6850, I've got a gaming rig! I think I'll recommend the same to my little brother. He's a WoW addict. I figure he can run Ultra settings and max shadings/textures in Raids and still pull 30+ FPS. Maybe the 6670 would suffice for that.

Awesome. Thanks.
 

dma0991

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Mar 17, 2011
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You really think a generic psu can give its rated amperage. If it states 20 you will probably get 8-12 tops, if it is a generic psu. Even branded lower level plus will probably give about 12-16 or so. Only a good psu will give 18-22+. And ideally you shouldn't put more than 70% stress on that thing ever. So if you need 20a get one which can guarantee 28a continuously. A generic 28a will still guarantee at most 15a and isn't recommended. A corsair 400+ would do a neat job,
Delta isn't one of the generic PSUs that advertise peak power instead of the more reliable continuous power. I do not know whether Delta is a PSU supplier for HP Compaq PCs but I'm pretty sure whatever it is, it will be quite reliable if operated within its constraints, no overclocking etc. Why would OEMs cheap out on something that is prone to wear and tear? If they did, they would have to cover warranties more often than they should and a blow to their reputation for reliability.

As for my old Delta 250W, even with its reduced efficiency, it managed to hold up for a couple of hours of Prime95 as I was doing burn in with the re-purposed casing and PSU for an Intel G620. I doubt my parents would be able to push it as hard as I could so I'm pretty sure it will be trouble free for about 1-2 years more.

I did recommend OP to go ahead with a Corsair CX430 as I already made a condition that his PSU did not meet, therefore he should change his PSU to a better one. Not that it is necessary but since he got a good deal out of it, he should.
 

bryanW1995

Lifer
May 22, 2007
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That PSU goes on sale for even less than that sometimes, actually. And even at $27, it's a good compromise if the OP doesn't plan to use the PC that often.

For those who leave their PCs idling 24/7 and can't/don't want to turn off their PCs, the higher efficiency PSUs really shine. The Capstone 10% load efficiency is very good (86% on 115V AC) whereas the Corsair is at 74%. (Though it's more like 82 vs. 74 if you compare 44 vs 43 watts.) The Capstone also has a 140mm ball-bearing fan whereas the longevity of the Corsair's smaller 120mm sleeve-bearing fan is likely to be decent or good, but not great. Reviews here for the Corsair and Capstone, respectively (Super Flower makes the Capstone PSU for Newegg): http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&file=print&reid=239 vs http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&file=print&reid=250 (Unfortunately, jonny did not test decibel level but I suspect the Capstone/Super Flower design is a little quieter thanks to its better fan.)

If OP gets free electricity or never idles, then that changes things some more, obviously. :) But yes your suggestion is a good one as well if the OP doesn't use the PC enough to recoup costs via lower electric bills.

Corsair is a quality brand, and for 1/3 the price the op would get 90% of the psu.
 

blastingcap

Diamond Member
Sep 16, 2010
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Corsair is a quality brand, and for 1/3 the price the op would get 90% of the psu.

I would amend that statement because Corsair is not a maker of PSUs. Let's not confuse Seasonic-built Corsairs with non-Seasonic-built Corsairs. The 430W PSU is NOT built by Seasonic, which is the best in the business imho, but another builder that still makes pretty decent PSUs... just not as good, which is why Corsair has a shorter warranty on them. (Look at Seasonic-built warranties and compare to the CX430 one. 5 vs 3 year.) Also, the CX430's got a sleeve-bearing 120mm fan that I suspect is louder and will not last as long as the Globe 140mm ball-bearing fan on the Capstone (36% larger surface area of fan so it can spin at lower speed and still move the same amount of air). In addition of course to the efficiency.

All of that said, the CX430 appears to be a decent low-budget choice for many users. But you cannot make a blanket statement like that. Is it "90% of the psu" for someone who pays Hawaii-electricity rates and runs their computer 24/7 folding? Just to make an extreme example. No, you have to look at how they will be using the PSU.

All I'm saying is that if OP plans to run the PSU a lot, then consider a higher-efficiency PSU which is a little better built, with a larger, probably quieter, and longer-lasting fan, longer warranty, and higher efficiency which will help pay for itself via lower electricity costs. Furthermore, I didn't recommend the Capstone at $75 and said it pricing was a little high right now. It was $60 a few months earlier, plus sales tax if applicable. For an extra $33 (which is more like double than triple the cost like you implied) to get a better, quieter fan and higher efficiency, that's a good deal in my eyes, but then I do run my computer 24/7 and pay some of the highest electrical costs in the U.S. even at Tier 1 rates. For the hypothetical Hawaii 24/7 folder, the case for higher efficiency is even stronger. It's like, if you don't drive much then sure, keep your existing beater which you got for free, or else get a cheap car with decent fuel efficiency, but if you drive a lot, consider a Prius. That's all I'm saying.

I already concurred with your rec already if the OP was on a hard budget (though frankly it's $47 for the CX430 out of pocket since there's a rebate involved but I'm ignoring that) or didn't plan to use the PC enough to allow for higher efficiency to recoup costs. What more do you want? Let it go. I just wanted to set the record straight and comment on your "Corsair is a good brand" statement. Corsair does not make PSUs and subcontracts to multiple manufacturers with varying quality levels. I am not revisiting this dead horse with you again.
 
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