Do MIRs effect your purchase decision?

[DesiPower]

Today submitted 2 MIRs, my 4th this year. I dig them, I have a 99.99% success rate. I probably buy something with MIR every 2 months if not more, and only once in my life I got rejected, they had a 1 week deadline to submit that shit and obviously I missed it. I buy stuff that I absolutely do not need, like there was this laptop cooler, free after MIR and some 10 pack DVD with a 8GB memory stick combo, again, free after MIR. One useful one this year, a win, was M500 120gb for $50 after MIR, that was a nice one!

BTW, anyone else notice the huge amount of Total Defense MIRs out there? They give $60 MIR so basically the software is free, plus, you get discount on the bundles product, for example their TD Plus + M500 120GB was $50 total after MIR. Yesterday say a $180 router was $120 after MIR along with TD combo. However they do make you register and provide credit card number in order to submit the MIR, but CC is not charged for another year. I think its a bad way to attract customers.

 

[smackababy]

I avoid them as "deals", but if they exist on a product I am purchasing at the price without the MIR in consideration, I'll send 'em off. I've had decent success (like 80%), but I've heard enough stories not to count on them.

 

[BurnItDwn]

I generally consider the price of the object excluding the rebate. I think they are a scam and hate them if/when items are advertised price after rebate with the "after rebate" in small print.

I don't want to deal with rebates, and they are not 100% reliable.

If I buy an item with a rebate, I will give the forms to my mom or my fiancee's mom and tell them they can fill it out and reap the rewards. They score a meal or two out of it, and I don't have to fill out forms that I hate filling out or deal with mailing things.

 

[KeithTalent]

I've never sent one in, so I generally just ignore them as a factor when making my purchase.

KT

 

[Midwayman]

Even if they work, they are usually a huge hassle. Unless its a sizable rebate where you'll chase it down you better factor on a low return rate.

 

[Rakehellion]

What the hell is an MIR?

 

[GagHalfrunt]

I generally only go for the rebates that are big enough to give a damn. Those $5 and $10 deals I don't care that much about, sometimes turn them in late or not at all, don't keep track of the progress, etc. The bigger ones I pay attention, do the paperwork rigorously, keep photocopies, keep on top of the status and raise hell if they try to reject it. That works 100% for me, the rebate clearing houses will try to screw a large number of people on the assumption that most people won't notice or fight it. If you don't let them screw you they can't screw you.

 

[smackababy]

What the hell is an MIR?

medium irregular rare.

The final form of a steak. You wouldn't understand.

 

[MrPickins]

I take them in to account when deciding where/if to purchase an item.

I don't find them to be difficult, and can't remember a time when I haven't received one back.

Just be sure to cross your t's and dot your i's when submitting.

 

[Greenman]

I absolutely hate that I'm expected to jump through hoops for some pittance that might be refunded to me in the future. I'll never buy anything with an MIR attached.

 

[master_shake_]

won't touch an artificial sale with an MIR...

too many reasons to get it denied and i don't really want my info given to some rebate house i couldn't trust with a unicef box.

 

[DrPizza]

I take them into account when developing brand loyalty - I avoid MIRs whenever possible. And, if for a couple extra bucks, I can jump ship and get a competitor's brand without jumping through hoops, I'm there.

So, in case any of the MIR data miners for companies are reading this, here's a piece of data: I despise you.

 

[Anubis]

don't care about them
they do not effect my decision

 

[MagnusTheBrewer]

They don't affect my buying decision.

 

[JManInPhoenix]

no

 

[cubby1223]

Rebates are a relic of a time best left to the past.

 

[RossMAN]

What do you think?

 

[squarecut1]

Not that many items have mail in rebates anymore. Due to their deserved bad reputation, lots of companies and stores no longer go that route

 

[DaveSimmons]

I hate them and am 90% or more likely to pass up a deal that requires a MIR.

To me a $10-20 rebate is more trouble than it's worth, and a $100 rebate is too much of a risk since the rebate companies try hard to keep from paying what they should.

Rebates often come before new models or price drops, so I usually just wait.

 

[RossMAN]

Not that many items have mail in rebates anymore. Due to their deserved bad reputation, lots of companies and stores no longer go that route

Good point and I do take into consideration which third party rebate processors are involved and their past reputation.

Some rebates are crazy awesome like StaplesEasyRebates.com which can be 100% submitted online, nothing to clip or mail in.

OK apparently there are tons of idiots out here
http://reviews.gethuman.com/customer-reviews/Staples-Easy-Rebates/

 

[OVerLoRDI]

Since I'm responsible and I do them without fail and as long as you follow the steps you pretty much always get your money (in my experience)

I just use them for gas. $X on number 2, swipe, fill tank. Get maximum value out of them.

 

[WaTaGuMp]

I am 100% on getting my rebates, got one that was $35, last week.

 

[SithSolo1]

The only time I purchase something these days with a rebate is when its the lowest price before the rebate is even applied.

 

[FeuerFrei]

A rebate is a tacit admission the product is no longer worth what they're selling it for. It just annoys me that I have to jump through hoops to avoid being ripped off. Just mark it down already.

I recently bought a motherboard offering $10 mail-in rebate. But collecting required sharing personal info, so I didn't collect. I discovered this before buying so the rebate bait did not induce me to buy the motherboard.

I'd have waited for a lower price on the motherboard, but WinXP support cessation forced my hand.

 

[MrPickins]

Since I'm responsible and I do them without fail and as long as you follow the steps you pretty much always get your money (in my experience)

I just use them for gas. $X on number 2, swipe, fill tank. Get maximum value out of them.

:thumbsup:

I convert them to Amazon "gift cards" online so I can be sure to use the whole thing. I'm not giving the leftover change back to the rebate issuer...