Do I need a new clutch?

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HybridSquirrel

Diamond Member
Nov 20, 2005
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Sometimes i'll punch on the gas when getting onto the freeway, and it sounds like my engine is speeding up, but my car doesn't go quite as fast as it sounds like it should. For example in 2nd gear I can usually take it up to 55 when I shift at 5k rpms(not that I do it every time I go that fast, just as an example), and now at 5k rpms I usually see it at 45-50. Sometimes when i'm accelerating from a light it feels really super sluggish, and im talking like snails pace, in which case I will just double clutch and it fixes it. It also makes a chirping noise when my foot isn't pushed on the clutch and im sitting at idle. So the two major symptoms i've been seeing are the under acceleration at times, and the chirping noise. Should I see about getting it replaced? I just had one put in in August, so it is still covered under the warranty. At least I think the part is, but not the labor which is the super expensive part.

EDIT: its a 98 corolla with 140xxx miles on it.
 
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EightySix Four

Diamond Member
Jul 17, 2004
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Sometimes i'll punch on the gas when getting onto the freeway, and it sounds like my engine is speeding up, but my car doesn't go quite as fast as it sounds like it should. For example in 2nd gear I can usually take it up to 55 when I shift at 5k rpms(not that I do it every time I go that fast, just as an example), and now at 5k rpms I usually see it at 45-50. Sometimes when i'm accelerating from a light it feels really super sluggish, and im talking like snails pace, in which case I will just double clutch and it fixes it. It also makes a chirping noise when my foot isn't pushed on the clutch and im sitting at idle. So the two major symptoms i've been seeing are the under acceleration at times, and the chirping noise. Should I see about getting it replaced? I just had one put in in August, so it is still covered under the warranty. At least I think the part is, but not the labor which is the super expensive part.

Sounds like a clutch to me... How do you blow through them that quick?
 

HybridSquirrel

Diamond Member
Nov 20, 2005
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Sounds like a clutch to me... How do you blow through them that quick?

I think the people who put it in did a real shitty job to be honest. I've already had to take it back to them 3 times on account of their fuck up. 02 sensor was actually my old one, not the new one they said they would put in, and that new one they put it was put in wrong and short circuited my dash cluster/lights. Then they forgot to connect some of my spark plug wires, which they weren't even supposed to be working on. I was getting my wheels aligned and they were fucking with my spark plugs.
 
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DesiPower

Lifer
Nov 22, 2008
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Yes, seem to the clutch IMO

Keep your feet off the clutch pad when you are not using it. There is a footrest built right next to it to rest your foot on. Just like you switch your felt foot between gas and break, switch your right foot between clutch and that foot rest (since you are burning them you pretty quick).
 

HybridSquirrel

Diamond Member
Nov 20, 2005
6,161
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Yes, seem to the clutch IMO

Keep your feet off the clutch pad when you are not using it. There is a footrest built right next to it to rest your foot on. Just like you switch your felt foot between gas and break, switch your right foot between clutch and that foot rest (since you are burning them you pretty quick).

I usually do keep it off, and I barely drive 20 miles a day. I got it replaced in August after having it for 130k miles, so I'm fairly certain it is not my driving style causing it to go bad.
 

amdhunter

Lifer
May 19, 2003
23,332
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So when you sit at a light, and don't have anything on the clutch pedal -- it chirps?
 

HybridSquirrel

Diamond Member
Nov 20, 2005
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If it doesn't stall out at idle - I'd think your clutch is gone also.
Maybe it's not adjusted properly? Did it ever feel good?

hmm for a little while it felt decent. I mean, it didn't feel like I had a brand spanking new transmission but it felt like a newused one. The chirping noise has always kinda been there, just been getting worse. I thought it might be a drive belt so I replaced those last week. The acceleration problems i've noticed since the end of March.
 
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CraigRT

Lifer
Jun 16, 2000
31,440
5
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Might not be the clutch itself, but it could be a rear main seal leak or quill seal or something along those lines. Clutches should honestly last easily 140k miles if not more under normal conditions.

Either way, you will probably have to get it diagnosed by someone else. That type of stuff can be hard to diagnose on your own.
 

bruceb

Diamond Member
Aug 20, 2004
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All points to a bad clutch or as suggested an oily clutch disc. When you get it replaced next time, consider a better street / strip style clutch. They are available for most makes and provide better clamping power, usually with little or no increase in pedal pressure. Be sure you also replace the Throwout Bearing, Pilot Bearing and be sure the Flywheel is smooth and shows no signs of Heat Checking (hot spots) ... if it does it needs to be resurfaced or replaced if it is very bad. Be sure the clutch release point is properly adjusted, usually done at the pedal linkage and that the clutch system is properly bleed, as most cars use a hydraulic clutch line to move the pressure plate.

http://www.autocom.com/prod_71228.html
 

HybridSquirrel

Diamond Member
Nov 20, 2005
6,161
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81
Might not be the clutch itself, but it could be a rear main seal leak or quill seal or something along those lines. Clutches should honestly last easily 140k miles if not more under normal conditions.

Either way, you will probably have to get it diagnosed by someone else. That type of stuff can be hard to diagnose on your own.

i'm going to have a buddy who worked at the car dealership with me take a look at it when he drives it on thursday.


i tried today to go about 25 in 4th gear and hit the gas. the engine kept revving up and didnt sputter like it shouldve
 

exdeath

Lifer
Jan 29, 2004
13,679
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Definitely your clutch. But I'd dig deeper into it if it's wearing that fast.

The squealing is your throwout/release bearing. If it's wearing out that fast and squealing already, it points to always spinning, staying hot, burning up it's grease supply, and injesting clutch dust 24/7. That bearing is not intended to be under constant engagement at 3-6k RPM at all times. For that to happen, it needs to be riding the pressure plate all the time and not just when you're foot is on the clutch, meaning your pedal linkage is preloading it too much. English: your clutch engagement range does not line up with the range of movement of your pedal and the clutch is being partially actuated even though the pedal it at it's highest point. If it's severe enough, you're clutch is slipping too even when your foot is off the pedal, and you'll burn up a new one just as fast.

Might want to check the pedal linkage adjustment and make sure the fork/pressure plate is being allowed to fully disengage when the pedal is up all the way. If it's not, it's the same thing as riding the clutch pedal all the time and you'll just keep wearing out clutches prematurely. If it's a cable, you need more slack in the cable, if it's hydraulic, there should be some kind of mechanical adjustment at the slave cylinder to "zero" it with the hydraulics at rest (bleeding or messing with the hydraulics will not change that relationship).

Also don't cheap out and neglect the flywheel when doing a clutch, the flywheel is an important part of the clutch system. Get it resurfaced or get a new one if it's damaged.
 
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amdhunter

Lifer
May 19, 2003
23,332
249
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i'm going to have a buddy who worked at the car dealership with me take a look at it when he drives it on thursday.


i tried today to go about 25 in 4th gear and hit the gas. the engine kept revving up and didnt sputter like it shouldve

That clutch is toast...lol
 

HybridSquirrel

Diamond Member
Nov 20, 2005
6,161
2
81
Definitely your clutch. But I'd dig deeper into it if it's wearing that fast.

The squealing is your throwout/release bearing. If it's wearing out that fast and squealing already, it points to always spinning, staying hot, burning up it's grease supply, and injesting clutch dust 24/7. That bearing is not intended to be under constant engagement at 3-6k RPM at all times. For that to happen, it needs to be riding the pressure plate all the time and not just when you're foot is on the clutch, meaning your pedal linkage is preloading it too much. English: your clutch engagement range does not line up with the range of movement of your pedal and the clutch is being partially actuated even though the pedal it at it's highest point. If it's severe enough, you're clutch is slipping too even when your foot is off the pedal, and you'll burn up a new one just as fast.

Might want to check the pedal linkage adjustment and make sure the fork/pressure plate is being allowed to fully disengage when the pedal is up all the way. If it's not, it's the same thing as riding the clutch pedal all the time and you'll just keep wearing out clutches prematurely. If it's a cable, you need more slack in the cable, if it's hydraulic, there should be some kind of mechanical adjustment at the slave cylinder to "zero" it with the hydraulics at rest (bleeding or messing with the hydraulics will not change that relationship).

Also don't cheap out and neglect the flywheel when doing a clutch, the flywheel is an important part of the clutch system. Get it resurfaced or get a new one if it's damaged.

when they re-did it it was flywheel and clutch. since both were stock i had them do both, but as far as I know all they did was drop the transmission, take the old shit out, put in a new rear seal, and slap new shit in. I will take a look at the pedal assembly this weekend. Well when i say it keeps revving up, I dont mean like it redlines as it would when im in neutral....it is slow, but steady revving up.
 
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