Do drill chuck keys wear out? Replacement chucks.

[Muse]

I have a Craftsman corded drill (Model 315.11480, 3amp) from the 1970's, I bought at Sears. I don't remember if I've replaced the chuck, quite possibly so.

On the chuck it says CRAFTSMAN, Chuck 29751 and key 2058, 1/16 - 3/8.

For some years now, when I use the drill (very occasionally), it's kind of tough tightening the chuck down on a drill bit because the chuck key tends to slip out of its purchase. I have to bear down hard to prevent that and move from hole to hole in the chuck (which I think you're supposed to do anyway, to get an even tightening). I've lived with that.

Do chuck keys wear out? I kind of think the teeth on it are worn some, causing it to slip out of the chuck more easily than it used to. Also possible is that the chuck itself is contributing to this problem.

I brought the drill to my local tool lending library (part of the local public library system), and the guy said I might want to get a larger 3/8" chuck for it, he says the tiny one on there sucks compared to the bigger kind he thinks I can get for it (he showed me the much larger 3/8" chuck on one of their drills for comparison).

Should/can I get a bigger chuck for it, where should I look for this (local hardware store, online?), should I (or do I need to) stick with a CRAFTSMAN part?

 

[NoTine42]

I recall my dad re-chucking his old Black & Decker drill, and I've seen chucks for sale, so sure it's all possible.

He wound up having to replace the drill after a fire. He was amazed with the power of his new drill. As admirable it is to reuse instead of trash it....

 

[boomerang]

Yes, chuck keys can wear out but a more likely scenario is that the key is wrong for the chuck. The pilot need to be a slip fit in the hole so the gears will mesh without easily slipping. You may have the wrong key having inadvertently switched it with one for another drill. You can buy replacement keys.

Having said that, I would remove the current chuck and buy a compatible replacement from whatever source you desire. But get a keyless chuck. That's what I did years ago with a corded drill and it was a purchase I did not regret. Whether you want to get a key or a replacement chuck is something you must determine based on the value to you.

What you have is a 3/8" chuck so I don't know what that guy is referring to. The much larger chuck he is showing you is more than likely a 1/2" chuck. My advice would be to stay with the 3/8". It's properly sized for the drill you have.

 

[TheSlamma]

Yes, chuck keys can wear out but a more likely scenario is that the key is wrong for the chuck. The pilot need to be a slip fit in the hole so the gears will mesh without easily slipping. You may have the wrong key having inadvertently switched it with one for another drill. You can buy replacement keys.

Having said that, I would remove the current chuck and buy a compatible replacement from whatever source you desire. But get a keyless chuck. That's what I did years ago with a corded drill and it was a purchase I did not regret. Whether you want to get a key or a replacement chuck is something you must determine based on the value to you.

What you have is a 3/8" chuck so I don't know what that guy is referring to. The much larger chuck he is showing you is more than likely a 1/2" chuck. My advice would be to stay with the 3/8". It's properly sized for the drill you have.

I second what boomerang said :thumbsup: same size chuck in a keyless option.

 

[cabri]

Teeth on a chuck key itself will wear. I remember that they used to slip on my dad's old craftsman.

I finally took the drill to a local hardware store and got a new key.

 

[Muse]

Yes, chuck keys can wear out but a more likely scenario is that the key is wrong for the chuck. The pilot need to be a slip fit in the hole so the gears will mesh without easily slipping. You may have the wrong key having inadvertently switched it with one for another drill. You can buy replacement keys.

Having said that, I would remove the current chuck and buy a compatible replacement from whatever source you desire. But get a keyless chuck. That's what I did years ago with a corded drill and it was a purchase I did not regret. Whether you want to get a key or a replacement chuck is something you must determine based on the value to you.

What you have is a 3/8" chuck so I don't know what that guy is referring to. The much larger chuck he is showing you is more than likely a 1/2" chuck. My advice would be to stay with the 3/8". It's properly sized for the drill you have.

I'm pretty sure he was saying to get a bigger/beefier 3/8" chuck for it. The one he showed me looked like it easily weighs twice the one I have on there.

I'm wondering if I can get a replacement chuck online or if I should go into a local hardware emporium. Well, not a Home Depot (although that might be possible for this), there's a large hardware store (Ace I think), not far from here. They have much better personal service than HD and the like. 10x more personal and the people tend to know what they're doing.

Keyless, yeah, I love that, but the guy I talked to at the tool lending library said (IIRC) that I should stick with a keyed replacement chuck. Don't remember his reasoning. I think he said the purchase on the bit would be more secure.

 

[boomerang]

I'm pretty sure he was saying to get a bigger/beefier 3/8" chuck for it. The one he showed me looked like it easily weighs twice the one I have on there.

I'm wondering if I can get a replacement chuck online or if I should go into a local hardware emporium. Well, not a Home Depot (although that might be possible for this), there's a large hardware store (Ace I think), not far from here. They have much better personal service than HD and the like. 10x more personal and the people tend to know what they're doing.

Keyless, yeah, I love that, but the guy I talked to at the tool lending library said (IIRC) that I should stick with a keyed replacement chuck. Don't remember his reasoning. I think he said the purchase on the bit would be more secure.

Well, I'll leave you to overthink this for yourself. I'm guilty of overthinking things myself from time to time.

But I'm going to close with some questions and comments for you.

You rarely use it. Why do you need a beefier chuck? Is there an advantage to making the tool heavier?

Keyless chucks are in wide use these days. This guy sounds old school. Good for him. I'm sure his buggy whips are in tip top condition.

Remove the existing chuck so you know what you need to replace it from the perspective of how it attaches to the drill motor.

 

[NoTine42]

Every now and then, I wish I had a drill with a keyed chuck (although those times may be when I am using a dull bit in metal or hard wood.)

Also consider ergonomics. It's harder on a wrist holding a front heavy drill.

 

[IronWing]

Have you tried cleaning out the chuck? Grime, saw dust, and bits of metal can get in there making the grip on the bit less sure. I bathed mine in WD-40 and cleaned it out really well. It was like a new drill all over again.

 

[Muse]

Have you tried cleaning out the chuck? Grime, saw dust, and bits of metal can get in there making the grip on the bit less sure. I bathed mine in WD-40 and cleaned it out really well. It was like a new drill all over again.

I'll see what I can do. I hate the smell of WD-40, so I'll have to try to minimize that. I can work outside, maybe follow up by dousing it with a solvent, followed by a little lubricating oil. In fact, maybe I can just use the latter two and not the WD-40. I have plenty on hand, but rarely use it.

 

[bryanl]

Keyless, yeah, I love that, but the guy I talked to at the tool lending library said (IIRC) that I should stick with a keyed replacement chuck. Don't remember his reasoning. I think he said the purchase on the bit would be more secure.

"Purchase" refers to the strength of the grip, and a keyed chuck can always be tightened much more than a keyless one, even if the latter has splined jaws. Keyless chucks can be so bad that some people use drill bits with hexagonal shafts.

Corded drills with keyed chucks are still sold, as little as $30 new, but I'd be reluctant to buy one from Harbor Freight because the speed control may be terrible and burn out. Besides the best 3/8" drill, like a DeWalt or Ridgid (lifetime warranty) is just twice that. Chucks alone typically cost $10-25, so I'd browse thrift stores for an old drill and remove its chuck.

 

[Muse]

"Purchase" refers to the strength of the grip, and a keyed chuck can always be tightened much more than a keyless one, even if the latter has splined jaws. Keyless chucks can be so bad that some people use drill bits with hexagonal shafts.

Corded drills with keyed chucks are still sold, as little as $30 new, but I'd be reluctant to buy one from Harbor Freight because the speed control may be terrible and burn out. Besides the best 3/8" drill, like a DeWalt or Ridgid (lifetime warranty) is just twice that. Chucks alone typically cost $10-25, so I'd browse thrift stores for an old drill and remove its chuck.

Interesting post! I have hexagonal shaft bits I bought at Harbor Freight. I bought a 2nd set when I broke one of the bits.I rarely reach for them, not sure why... probably partly because I don't want to break more of them! I almost always grab my round shaft set. I have many backup bits for those if they break... or get dull.

 

[bryanl]

I have hexagonal shaft bits I bought at Harbor Freight. I bought a 2nd set when I broke one of the bits.I rarely reach for them, not sure why... probably partly because I don't want to break more of them!

I won't buy anything from Harbor Freight that needs to be sharp because it dulls so fast it ends up costing more per use than any far more expensive equivalent sold elsewhere. On the other hand their Pittsburgh Pro (not to be confused with regular Pittsburgh) mechanics tools are high quality.

 

[Muse]

I won't buy anything from Harbor Freight that needs to be sharp because it dulls so fast it ends up costing more per use than any far more expensive equivalent sold elsewhere. On the other hand their Pittsburgh Pro (not to be confused with regular Pittsburgh) mechanics tools are high quality.

I bought packets of their smaller drill bits like 1/16" and 3/32". So cheap, even if they dull or break it's cheaper than buying them individually at Ace Hardware. That size breaks very easily, in my experience doesn't matter if they are good or cheap. But I don't think I'd buy another set of drill bits 1/16" - 1/4" or larger. I have too many junk drill bits around already. I don't know what's junk and what isn't. If it's sharp enough to get the job done, I use it.

 

[Muse]

Today, took the Craftsman corded drill from the 1970's to an oversized Ace hardware and they took me to the rack that had replacement chuck keys, etc. She grabs a Jacobs #30249 and it fit the drill's chuck perfectly. ~$3.50 out the door. No slipping tightening up on drill bits now, exactly what was needed. Makes sense, Sears quite possibly contracted with Jacobs for the chucks. Even Sears store locally supposedly didn't stock the #2058 key recommended, I would have had to order it online.

 

[SparkyJJO]

Sounds about right. Jacobs chucks were used on a lot of drills. Still are I believe, in both forms.

 

[shortylickens]

Cheap ones do. I just purchased a high quality 4-way chuck key. It cost a bit more, however I think its worth it.

 

[Muse]

Cheap ones do. I just purchased a high quality 4-way chuck key. It cost a bit more, however I think its worth it.

What's a 4-way chuck key?