Difficult to replace brake pads?

DrumminBoy

Golden Member
Mar 10, 2002
1,995
0
0
Is it difficult to replace disc brake pads? I only have 10% of my braking surface left on my current pads so im thinking of changing them myself to save a little money. btw, this is on a 92 civic
 

agnitrate

Diamond Member
Jul 2, 2001
3,761
1
0
It's not hard by any means. I know nothing about cars and I was able to do it.

-silver
 

T2T III

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
12,899
1
0
Pick up a Hayne's repair manual. It should only cost about $12.00. However, it will be quite detailed with some good photos to guide you through the process.
 

Scarpozzi

Lifer
Jun 13, 2000
26,391
1,780
126
You just have to get the Calipers apart and pry those suckers out. Be sure to be careful not to suck air in your breaklines.
 

white

Senior member
Nov 2, 2000
988
3
81
do you have tools, jack and jackstands? are you mechanically inclined? if the bolts are too tight and you don't have impact tools you could use a rubber mallet on a wrench. just make sure you're turning it the right way. eventually it should come off. you might also have trouble with the screw holding the rotor on. don't know how to help you there.
 

Evadman

Administrator Emeritus<br>Elite Member
Feb 18, 2001
30,990
5
81
Make sure to have the rotors turned. that can be done where you bought the pads, usually free with pad purchase. Remember to remove the top from the brake resovior or you can blow it off and make a big mess when you push the pistons back into the bore.

Rough steps that will work for any car:

#1 chock wheels.
#2 losen lugnuts, but do not remove.
#3 lift front of car.
#4 support with jackstands, not jack.
#5 remove lug nuts and wheel.
#6 inspect break lines and other components since movement can worsen problems. Look for leaking fluid.
#7 unbolt caliper. usually 2 bolts.
#8 Slide caliper off of rotor and support it so the brake line is not stressed.
#9 Inspect caliper. Look for cracks or leaking fluid, expecialy around the copper washer where the brake line attaches. grease slide pins.
#10 remove rotor. usually bolted on with 2 screws. My prelude used 2 #3 philips screws.
#11 Inspect rotor. look for "bluing" where it overheated, and gouges. If blued or gouged, replace. they are not too bad $ wise usually.
#12 Remove old pads from caliper. they usually snap out.
#13 inspect pads for uneven wear. differing thicknesses from inboard and outboard pad are normal.
#14 Push piston back into bore with a c-clamp and old pad as buffer. go slow so the piston is not cocked by accident.
#14 Anti-squeal grease is usualy supplied. it goes on the back of the pad betweent he piston. some come with a steel backing plate.
#15 Install pads. one side of pad usually has a "tab" that fits int he caliper. make sure to use the correct pad (left, right, inboard, outboard)
#16 If everything went well, go to auto store and get rotors turned and pickup 1 or 2 cans of brake cleaner.
#17 Install new or turned rotors.
#18 spray rotors with brake cleaner.
#19 Spray pads with brake cleaner.
#20 Install caliper.
#21 Spray everything with brake cleaner again. Brake cleaner = friend.
#22 Install wheel.
#23 Check brake fluid level.
#24 Lower car.
#25 Final torque lug nuts.
#26 test drive car. check pedal feel.
#27 repeat steps 1-6.
#28 Your done. have a beer.
#29. retorque wheels in 500 miles.

<edit>
be aware that the bolts holding on the calipers are probably T-45 or T-50 style. They look kinda like stars. Most people do not have one of these available.
 

Analog

Lifer
Jan 7, 2002
12,755
3
0
Originally posted by: Evadman
Make sure to have the rotors turned. that can be done where you bought the pads, usually free with pad purchase. Remember to remove the top from the brake resovior or you can blow it off and make a big mess when you push the pistons back into the bore.

Rough steps that will work for any car:

#1 chock wheels.
#2 losen lugnuts, but do not remove.
#3 lift front of car.
#4 support with jackstands, not jack.
#5 remove lug nuts and wheel.
#6 inspect break lines and other components since movement can worsen problems. Look for leaking fluid.
#7 unbolt caliper. usually 2 bolts.
#8 Slide caliper off of rotor and support it so the brake line is not stressed.
#9 Inspect caliper. Look for cracks or leaking fluid, expecialy around the copper washer where the brake line attaches. grease slide pins.
#10 remove rotor. usually bolted on with 2 screws. My prelude used 2 #3 philips screws.
#11 Inspect rotor. look for "bluing" where it overheated, and gouges. If blued or gouged, replace. they are not too bad $ wise usually.
#12 Remove old pads from caliper. they usually snap out.
#13 inspect pads for uneven wear. differing thicknesses from inboard and outboard pad are normal.
#14 Push piston back into bore with a c-clamp and old pad as buffer. go slow so the piston is not cocked by accident.
#14 Anti-squeal grease is usualy supplied. it goes on the back of the pad betweent he piston. some come with a steel backing plate.
#15 Install pads. one side of pad usually has a "tab" that fits int he caliper. make sure to use the correct pad (left, right, inboard, outboard)
#16 If everything went well, go to auto store and get rotors turned and pickup 1 or 2 cans of brake cleaner.
#17 Install new or turned rotors.
#18 spray rotors with brake cleaner.
#19 Spray pads with brake cleaner.
#20 Install caliper.
#21 Spray everything with brake cleaner again. Brake cleaner = friend.
#22 Install wheel.
#23 Check brake fluid level.
#24 Lower car.
#25 Final torque lug nuts.
#26 test drive car. check pedal feel.
#27 repeat steps 1-6.
#28 Your done. have a beer.
#29. retorque wheels in 500 miles.

<edit>
be aware that the bolts holding on the calipers are probably T-45 or T-50 style. They look kinda like stars. Most people do not have one of these available.

excellent, you should put this on a web site.
 

tarheelmm

Golden Member
Apr 17, 2002
1,207
0
0
Doing mine this Saturday, usually takes me about 45 mins. as I dont have jack stands and have to do each side at a time.
 

SuperSix

Elite Member
Oct 9, 1999
9,872
2
0
I did mine last night. All hail the vacuum brake bleeder! :) Little contraption that hooks up to my Sun vacuum pump and pulls the air out of the lines.

I couldn't find my damn grease gun so I couldn't repack the bearings.. :(

Dammit I need that grease gun!