Differences between Brands?

[Andrew1990]

I need to replace the waterpump on my 1989 Chevy G20. I am looking on the autozone website and there are a couple different brands with large gaps in pricing.

For example, the Duralast pump is $36.99 while the valuecraft pump is $27.99. Then there is a heavy duty version of the duralast that cost $54.99.

Do the more expensive ones do anything the cheap valuecraft wont? The engine is a 5.0L V8 350 if that matters.

 

[zerocool84]

I would assume they would all work but that the difference is in how long they each last and with different warranties. If you want to keep your car and have it going strong, I would buy quality parts for it and not the cheapest stuff you can get. Duralast does have some good quality parts. I would go for the one with the longest warranty.

 

[JulesMaximus]

Originally posted by: Andrew1990
I need to replace the waterpump on my 1989 Chevy G20. I am looking on the autozone website and there are a couple different brands with large gaps in pricing.

For example, the Duralast pump is $36.99 while the valuecraft pump is $27.99. Then there is a heavy duty version of the duralast that cost $54.99.

Do the more expensive ones do anything the cheap valuecraft wont? The engine is a 5.0L V8 350 if that matters.

5.0l V8 could not possibly be a 350.

I had a Mustang GT with a 5.0l engine (two of them in fact) and they are about 302 cubic inches. A 350 cubic inch motor from Chevrolet would be around 5.7l in displacement if I'm not mistaken. I think their 5.0l engine is around 305 cubic inches.

That said, don't buy the cheap aftermarket water pumps. If you're going to go through the trouble of replacing the water pump, get a good quality OEM one from Chevrolet. Working on a van is hard enough, you don't want to be tearing it apart a year from now because you put in crap parts to save a few bucks.

 

[JulesMaximus]

Originally posted by: zerocool84
I would assume they would all work but that the difference is in how long they each last and with different warranties. If you want to keep your car and have it going strong, I would buy quality parts for it and not the cheapest stuff you can get. Duralast does have some good quality parts. I would go for the one with the longest warranty.

Warranties are useless. It's the labor that will kill you.

I had a friend who owned a Mustang, his water pump went out at around 85k miles so he replaced it with one from NAPA with a lifetime warranty. He said they crap out after about a year but that he can go down to his local NAPA store and get a new one for free. Honestly, even if you do the work yourself, all the labor it takes to change the pump isn't worth the $30-40 you'll save over buying one from the dealership parts department IMO.

 

[njmodi]

I agree with Jules... especially for something as cumbersome (and important) as a waterpump - OEM all the way. I would not want to do that job over and over again - even if the part is free, and I would not want that part failing when on the road...

If it was something like an alternator or starter - I *might* consider a cheaper alternative since they are much easier to replace and can't really cause irreversible damage to the car if they fail prematurely.

 

[Pacfanweb]

5.7 is a 350.

Probably no difference in the pumps, other than the warranty on them. They are pieces of cast iron, with a shaft, bearings and impeller. Very simple parts.

 

[Andrew1990]

Originally posted by: JulesMaximus

Originally posted by: Andrew1990
I need to replace the waterpump on my 1989 Chevy G20. I am looking on the autozone website and there are a couple different brands with large gaps in pricing.

For example, the Duralast pump is $36.99 while the valuecraft pump is $27.99. Then there is a heavy duty version of the duralast that cost $54.99.

Do the more expensive ones do anything the cheap valuecraft wont? The engine is a 5.0L V8 350 if that matters.

5.0l V8 could not possibly be a 350.

I had a Mustang GT with a 5.0l engine (two of them in fact) and they are about 302 cubic inches. A 350 cubic inch motor from Chevrolet would be around 5.7l in displacement if I'm not mistaken. I think their 5.0l engine is around 305 cubic inches.

That said, don't buy the cheap aftermarket water pumps. If you're going to go through the trouble of replacing the water pump, get a good quality OEM one from Chevrolet. Working on a van is hard enough, you don't want to be tearing it apart a year from now because you put in crap parts to save a few bucks.

Oops, meant 305, typing too fast.

I guess the Duralast one isnt too much more, I will be going there tomorrow so I will ask about the warranties on both parts.

Also, I don't expect to own this van for a long time, maybe a year or so until I get a better vehicle. The body is in pretty rough shape, but the engine is in very good shape except the pump.

 

[brblx]

i wouldn't put a 'duralast' anything on my car.

the more expensive pumps may be new. the cheaper ones are going to be remans, and cheaper they are, the less they probably put into remanufacturing them.

i would go to napa or carquest.

 

[Andrew1990]

Originally posted by: brblx
i wouldn't put a 'duralast' anything on my car.

the more expensive pumps may be new. the cheaper ones are going to be remans, and cheaper they are, the less they probably put into remanufacturing them.

i would go to napa or carquest.

Ok, going for a napa pump may be more convenient anyways as I have a dealer right here in town.

 

[Vette73]

I have bought a pile of water pumps from autozone. Unless something has changed it was/is...


Valuecraft = Reman (Rebuilt pump)
I never used these as I rather have a new casting and the price differance was not big enough for me.

Duralast = New pump and bearings
I used this one most. Made to OEM specs and never had any major issues with them

Duralast Gold (may be a different name) = new pump but supposed to have a better internal fin design and better lubed (maybe syn grease?) bearings.
Had someone bring me this and never had any issue. Did not tear it apart to see if it was better.


If it was my car/truck I put the duralast on it. Use a little, but good quality, silicone on the gasket and replace/check the Rad. cap, thermostat, and hoses.

 

[bruceb]

Generally the more the pump costs, the more new parts are in it as opposed to some parts being refurbished. And the heavy duty pump, likely has a higher water volume flow rate than the stock one. So it will move more coolant, which would be a big help if you do a lot of towing or driving in very hot weather. Just an aside, on the Chevy 305 / 350 motor, changing the water pump is not hard for a backyard mechanic to do. Anywhere from 1 to 3 hours at most, depending on how easy you can get to the front of the motor. Drain the coolant, remove lower hose, remove your drive belt or belts, fan, in some cases, brackets are under some of the water pump bolt, remove them and the pump. Be sure to get the gaskets and while all is apart would be a good time for a system flush, new thermostat and radiator cap and hoses.

 

[JulesMaximus]

Originally posted by: bruceb
Generally the more the pump costs, the more new parts are in it as opposed to some parts being refurbished. And the heavy duty pump, likely has a higher water volume flow rate than the stock one. So it will move more coolant, which would be a big help if you do a lot of towing or driving in very hot weather. Just an aside, on the Chevy 305 / 350 motor, changing the water pump is not hard for a backyard mechanic to do. Anywhere from 1 to 3 hours at most, depending on how easy you can get to the front of the motor. Drain the coolant, remove lower hose, remove your drive belt or belts, fan, in some cases, brackets are under some of the water pump bolt, remove them and the pump. Be sure to get the gaskets and while all is apart would be a good time for a system flush, new thermostat and radiator cap and hoses.

I've done this job on a Mustang GT and it wasn't difficult but it was at least 1 hour of labor...probably more like 2 for a n00b. Never tried it on a fullsize van though, which the OP has. I'd be willing to bet money that it's a whole lot more of a pain in the ass on that vehicle than on pretty much any other and not one I'd want to repeat...ever.

 

[sdifox]

I still don't understand why pumps fail so much, why not a magnetic drive pump?

 

[Vette73]

Originally posted by: sdifox
I still don't understand why pumps fail so much, why not a magnetic drive pump?

Pumps should not fail much. If they are then there are other issues.


But they fail due to not only tempatures but also moving a thicker then water fluid under pressure around at great speeds. It is a sealed bearings so think of it like only changing the oil in your car once and then seal it off. So they actually last a long time for their conditions.

1 big mistake people make that wears them out faster is running pure antifrezze or not adding enough water.

 

[sdifox]

went though 5 pumps on my Protege5 over 177K

 

[Andrew1990]

Originally posted by: JulesMaximus

Originally posted by: bruceb
Generally the more the pump costs, the more new parts are in it as opposed to some parts being refurbished. And the heavy duty pump, likely has a higher water volume flow rate than the stock one. So it will move more coolant, which would be a big help if you do a lot of towing or driving in very hot weather. Just an aside, on the Chevy 305 / 350 motor, changing the water pump is not hard for a backyard mechanic to do. Anywhere from 1 to 3 hours at most, depending on how easy you can get to the front of the motor. Drain the coolant, remove lower hose, remove your drive belt or belts, fan, in some cases, brackets are under some of the water pump bolt, remove them and the pump. Be sure to get the gaskets and while all is apart would be a good time for a system flush, new thermostat and radiator cap and hoses.

I've done this job on a Mustang GT and it wasn't difficult but it was at least 1 hour of labor...probably more like 2 for a n00b. Never tried it on a fullsize van though, which the OP has. I'd be willing to bet money that it's a whole lot more of a pain in the ass on that vehicle than on pretty much any other and not one I'd want to repeat...ever.

Well my father will there to assist me and he is pretty good at stuff like this. Also the engine is actually pretty easy to work on as you can access the entire back of it through the Van cab and get in to the front compartment under the hood.

 

[JulesMaximus]

Originally posted by: Marlin1975

Originally posted by: sdifox
I still don't understand why pumps fail so much, why not a magnetic drive pump?

Pumps should not fail much. If they are then there are other issues.


But they fail due to not only tempatures but also moving a thicker then water fluid under pressure around at great speeds. It is a sealed bearings so think of it like only changing the oil in your car once and then seal it off. So they actually last a long time for their conditions.

1 big mistake people make that wears them out faster is running pure antifrezze or not adding enough water.

5.0l Mustangs were notorious for water pumps wearing out at around 85k miles. I know several people who owned them and they all said the same thing, the water pump will start to leak at around 80-90k miles. Cost is around $300 to have it replaced at the dealer but the pump itself only cost about $75 from the dealer. I replaced one myself on my first Mustang.

 

[Pacfanweb]

Originally posted by: sdifox
I still don't understand why pumps fail so much, why not a magnetic drive pump?

Silicates in the antifreeze eat up the shaft seals.

 

[JulesMaximus]

Originally posted by: Andrew1990

Originally posted by: JulesMaximus

Originally posted by: bruceb
Generally the more the pump costs, the more new parts are in it as opposed to some parts being refurbished. And the heavy duty pump, likely has a higher water volume flow rate than the stock one. So it will move more coolant, which would be a big help if you do a lot of towing or driving in very hot weather. Just an aside, on the Chevy 305 / 350 motor, changing the water pump is not hard for a backyard mechanic to do. Anywhere from 1 to 3 hours at most, depending on how easy you can get to the front of the motor. Drain the coolant, remove lower hose, remove your drive belt or belts, fan, in some cases, brackets are under some of the water pump bolt, remove them and the pump. Be sure to get the gaskets and while all is apart would be a good time for a system flush, new thermostat and radiator cap and hoses.

I've done this job on a Mustang GT and it wasn't difficult but it was at least 1 hour of labor...probably more like 2 for a n00b. Never tried it on a fullsize van though, which the OP has. I'd be willing to bet money that it's a whole lot more of a pain in the ass on that vehicle than on pretty much any other and not one I'd want to repeat...ever.

Well my father will there to assist me and he is pretty good at stuff like this. Also the engine is actually pretty easy to work on as you can access the entire back of it through the Van cab and get in to the front compartment under the hood.

I don't know where the water pump is on that engine but on most V8's it is located at the front of the engine and is driven by the belts that run your accessories. You're going to have to remove the fan, fan shroud, drain the cooling system, remove the pump, scrape off all the old gasket material, fit the new pump, and then re-install all the parts you had to remove to get at the water pump. Like I said, it's not difficult but on a van it will probably be a big PITA because of how the engine is packaged into the chassis.

 

[BUTCH1]

Originally posted by: JulesMaximus

Originally posted by: zerocool84
I would assume they would all work but that the difference is in how long they each last and with different warranties. If you want to keep your car and have it going strong, I would buy quality parts for it and not the cheapest stuff you can get. Duralast does have some good quality parts. I would go for the one with the longest warranty.

Warranties are useless. It's the labor that will kill you.

I had a friend who owned a Mustang, his water pump went out at around 85k miles so he replaced it with one from NAPA with a lifetime warranty. He said they crap out after about a year but that he can go down to his local NAPA store and get a new one for free. Honestly, even if you do the work yourself, all the labor it takes to change the pump isn't worth the $30-40 you'll save over buying one from the dealership parts department IMO.

Boy did I learn that the hard way, replaced a heater core, a brutal affair that took 14 hours only to have it fail 2 years later. At least the OEM one from ford lasted 5 before it croaked. Yea, bring it back and we'll swap you out with a new one!, no thanks, I went with OEM 2nd time around..

 

[Squisher]

Originally posted by: sdifox
I still don't understand why pumps fail so much, why not a magnetic drive pump?

I wonder what that would cost over a regular pump? I had a magnetic driven pump for my waterfall in the pond at my old house.