Difference between 21 and 18 speed mountain bikes

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JulesMaximus

No Lifer
Jul 3, 2003
74,459
854
126
Originally posted by: ThisIsMatt
Originally posted by: JulesMaximus
Originally posted by: ThisIsMatt
Originally posted by: JulesMaximus
Originally posted by: ThisIsMatt
Originally posted by: FrankyJunior
Very rarely will you ever use the very top or the very bottom gears so for standard riding it won't make a bit of difference.
I use the top end of my mtb when on road all the time, getting up to over 45mph. I use the low end when offroading quite often as well.

I have 53 teeth on my big chainring on my road bike and 11 on the smallest rear cog. At 42mph (I hit that on Sunday going down a huge hill near my house) I could barely keep up if I pedalled. I seriously doubt you have a 53 on a mtb so you must have been spinning at a cadence of what...130? I can do 100 fairly smoothly. I call shens.

Edit-You sure you have your cycle computer calibrated for the correct wheelsize?
11 rear, 44 front. Yes, steep hill, yes my cyclometer is configured correctly (and I've compared it against my car), yes I'm passing traffic. I don't have clipless, but I do have shoe straps/baskets/whatever you want to call them, and yes it takes a lot of pedalling. FYI, it was 47.6mph to be exact :)

Checking this calculator Text, with your chainring/rear cog, 26" tires and 170mm cranks, 120rpms is (only) 37.1mph.

Another source says if you're running a 26" x 2.25" tire (with the standard 2115 mm circumference), you'd have to pedal at 149 rpm to reach that speed, according to the Gearing Calculator built into Cyclistats.

Again, shens.

Now, if you're saying you can coast downhill at that speed? I might be inclined to believe you...it would have to be a pretty steep hill though.
You really don't think I can pedal 3 revolutions in a second? Maybe you're just slow...get over it :)

I generally spin on the 53 on my road bike and vary between the 17-19-21 tooth cogs on the cassette. My cadence is around 90-100rpm and speed is around 20 on flat roads. Not exactly tearing it up and certainly not race speeds but I get a good workout at that speed and cadence. People I've talked to who race say you really have to train hard to be able to pedal smoothly at 150-170rpm. Unless you're a racer or semi-pro cyclist, I don't think you can pedal 3 revolutions per second.
 

Dessert Tears

Golden Member
Feb 27, 2005
1,100
0
76
Originally posted by: JulesMaximus
I generally spin on the 53 on my road bike and vary between the 17-19-21 tooth cogs on the cassette. My cadence is around 90-100rpm and speed is around 20 on flat roads. Not exactly tearing it up and certainly not race speeds but I get a good workout at that speed and cadence. People I've talked to who race say you really have to train hard to be able to pedal smoothly at 150-170rpm. Unless you're a racer or semi-pro cyclist, I don't think you can pedal 3 revolutions per second.
I've topped out at 160rpm, slight downhill, middle gears (probably only 20-22mph) doing a impromptu spinning drill. I was bouncing a little, but overall stable (I would not be comfortable doing this with traffic). My form is neither terrible nor particularly developed. Just some anecdotal experience in contrast.

Most cyclists can reach smoothness at such cadence only by specifically training to pedal quickly. High RPMs are useful for track cyclists, single-speed riders, and possibly non-technical downhillers.
 

waggy

No Lifer
Dec 14, 2000
68,145
10
81
Originally posted by: laurenlex
Originally posted by: Neeraj
I'm on a low budget, and I've found this one: http://www.halfords.com/opd_product_details.asp?id=20352&type=0&cat=415. Problem is, instead of being the usual MB, it's a Dirt Jump bike. Will I be able to gtthe seat higher - with my own long seat post? Will this be worse on road than a normal MB?


That would be a TERRIBLE bike for riding around for fitness or transportation. Bikes are made for specific purposes, and that one is for catching air, dropping off ledges, and doing stunts. It is not meant to be pedaled while sitting down. The seat is low so you don't break your nads on a landing.

You need a plain jane, quality, mountain bike with smooth, narrow tires. Any brand will do (Specialized, Trek, Fisher, Kona). They are pretty much the same at the same price point.

If a new bike only has 18 speeds, it's not worthy of being ridden, IMO. The cheapest of the cheap Shimano compontets are 21 speed. 24 or 27 speed is better.

The benefit of all those gears is so your legs are spinning at the perfect RPM's at any given speed. You will also get higher and lower gears, which helps hauling @ss and climing steep hills.

Pony up and spend at least $300 US on a basic mountain bike. NO REAR SUSPENSION. Try and not get front suspension if you won't be off road. It makes the bike heavier, and more expensive. If you ride off road, you must have suspension.

Enough rambling, hope I helped a little.

I love my specilized i got. I got it thanks to people on ATOT! woot!

great bike. well worht the money i paid.

 

ThisIsMatt

Banned
Aug 4, 2000
11,820
1
0
Originally posted by: JulesMaximus
Originally posted by: ThisIsMatt
Originally posted by: JulesMaximus
Originally posted by: ThisIsMatt
Originally posted by: JulesMaximus
Originally posted by: ThisIsMatt
Originally posted by: FrankyJunior
Very rarely will you ever use the very top or the very bottom gears so for standard riding it won't make a bit of difference.
I use the top end of my mtb when on road all the time, getting up to over 45mph. I use the low end when offroading quite often as well.

I have 53 teeth on my big chainring on my road bike and 11 on the smallest rear cog. At 42mph (I hit that on Sunday going down a huge hill near my house) I could barely keep up if I pedalled. I seriously doubt you have a 53 on a mtb so you must have been spinning at a cadence of what...130? I can do 100 fairly smoothly. I call shens.

Edit-You sure you have your cycle computer calibrated for the correct wheelsize?
11 rear, 44 front. Yes, steep hill, yes my cyclometer is configured correctly (and I've compared it against my car), yes I'm passing traffic. I don't have clipless, but I do have shoe straps/baskets/whatever you want to call them, and yes it takes a lot of pedalling. FYI, it was 47.6mph to be exact :)

Checking this calculator Text, with your chainring/rear cog, 26" tires and 170mm cranks, 120rpms is (only) 37.1mph.

Another source says if you're running a 26" x 2.25" tire (with the standard 2115 mm circumference), you'd have to pedal at 149 rpm to reach that speed, according to the Gearing Calculator built into Cyclistats.

Again, shens.

Now, if you're saying you can coast downhill at that speed? I might be inclined to believe you...it would have to be a pretty steep hill though.
You really don't think I can pedal 3 revolutions in a second? Maybe you're just slow...get over it :)

I generally spin on the 53 on my road bike and vary between the 17-19-21 tooth cogs on the cassette. My cadence is around 90-100rpm and speed is around 20 on flat roads. Not exactly tearing it up and certainly not race speeds but I get a good workout at that speed and cadence. People I've talked to who race say you really have to train hard to be able to pedal smoothly at 150-170rpm. Unless you're a racer or semi-pro cyclist, I don't think you can pedal 3 revolutions per second.
Well then, I'll have to reattach my crank magnet and go riding tomorrow.

 

herm0016

Diamond Member
Feb 26, 2005
8,393
1,026
126
wow. 2005 bump.

you may want to just start a new thread. are you in the uk?