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Did my pads/rotors for the first time today

RichieZ

RichieZ

Diamond Member
Cost me $660 in parts (OEM pads and OEM manufacturer for rotors) for my 2008 Boxster, saved ~$1,100 over a quote from the indy shop I take it to for more involved services

Boy it took me five hours since it was the first time I've ever done this, really easy actually I bet I could do it in <2.5 hours next time. My friend was working on his S2000 at the same time and made sure I didn't mess anything up.

Here's to mostly avoiding the Porsche tax!
 
RichieZ said:
Cost me $660 in parts (OEM pads and OEM manufacturer for rotors) for my 2008 Boxster, saved ~$1,100 over a quote from the indy shop I take it to for more involved services

Boy it took me five hours since it was the first time I've ever done this, really easy actually I bet I could do it in <2.5 hours next time. My friend was working on his S2000 at the same time and made sure I didn't mess anything up.

Here's to mostly avoiding the Porsche tax!
Click to expand...

gotta ask why you went with OEM parts since there is many many suppliers of good parts at much lower prices. Also you should know that "OEM" parts are not sourced from the same place the manufacturers uses when the car was built. maybe for porsche but generally no.
 
RichieZ said:
Cost me $660 in parts (OEM pads and OEM manufacturer for rotors) for my 2008 Boxster, saved ~$1,100 over a quote from the indy shop I take it to for more involved services

Boy it took me five hours since it was the first time I've ever done this, really easy actually I bet I could do it in <2.5 hours next time. My friend was working on his S2000 at the same time and made sure I didn't mess anything up.

Here's to mostly avoiding the Porsche tax!
Click to expand...


If that were the case then why did you use "OEM" parts? Can you tell me where Porsches brake rotor and pad factory is?
 
silicon said:
gotta ask why you went with OEM parts since there is many many suppliers of good parts at much lower prices. Also you should know that "OEM" parts are not sourced from the same place the manufacturers uses when the car was built. maybe for porsche but generally no.
Click to expand...

I used the OEM pads b/c I like the fact that they are very quiet and have great bite even though they dust a lot

I used the OEM manufacturer (Sebro) for rotors b/c I like the drilled rotor look, also I think these are the cheapest option

Its not like the parts are shared with a lot of other cars. I did a good amount of research on porsche specific boards (rennslist, planet9 etc) and found the lowest cost sources

Rotor options:
http://www.bmaparts.com/ShopByVehic...id=disc-brake-rotor@@Disc+Brake+Rotor&mode=PA

Pad options, could have saved a little money here but why risk it:
http://www.bmaparts.com/ShopByVehic...typeid=disc-brake-pad@@Disc+Brake+Pad&mode=PA

PS you can see what the same rotors stamped with the porsche part number cost:
http://www.suncoastparts.com/category/987brakes27brakes.html
 
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Did my brakes a few weeks ago. Saved ~300 bucks over having a dealer do it. Took me around 2.5 hours total. Wasn't my first brake job, but first time doing Brembo's. Overall, easy maint. to do for an average joe.
 
FWIW I would've used porsche parts as well.

Ignore the hecklers acting like you should put $20 autozone shit rotors/pads on your sports car.
 
Paid my Craigslist mobile mechanic $40 labor to replace front pads. Parts from Amazon. It's too frickin' hot to work on the car. 😛
 
SpatiallyAware said:
FWIW I would've used porsche parts as well.

Ignore the hecklers acting like you should put $20 autozone shit rotors/pads on your sports car.
Click to expand...


Hahah says the guy that was talking up napa pads while talking down other pads that were made at the same place just different boxes. 🙂

You're the last person that should ever give auto advice. Now go put some air in your tires, you're below sidewall max.
 
brake pads are Textar (155 retail front, 142 rear)
sensors are Sebro (about $46 retail each x4)
rotors are sebro (184 retail each)

Sounds like you paid a lot less than MSRP on parts anyway, so good job on the DIY! 🙂
 
SpatiallyAware said:
FWIW I would've used porsche parts as well.

Ignore the hecklers acting like you should put $20 autozone shit rotors/pads on your sports car.
Click to expand...

Why? The pads work just fine on my corvette...plus when they wear out (which they do) I just get new ones for free. As a matter of fact, just a few weeks ago replaced the starter on my vette with a rebuilt from Advance auto. Then again, my vette is no Porsche.
 
tweakmonkey said:
brake pads are Textar (155 retail front, 142 rear)
sensors are Sebro (about $46 retail each x4)
rotors are sebro (184 retail each)

Sounds like you paid a lot less than MSRP on parts anyway, so good job on the DIY! 🙂
Click to expand...

I guess what I am trying to say is that even high end parts may be sourced in china or some place where the labor is cheap to produce them. Probably built to OEM specs though. Plus the home mechanic, when buying parts from a dealer, is entitled to a discount as I have asked for and received up to a 15% discount on exhaust parts. But the quality even from the dealer parts store was never equal to the original parts.
 
Vetterin said:
Why? The pads work just fine on my corvette...plus when they wear out (which they do) I just get new ones for free. As a matter of fact, just a few weeks ago replaced the starter on my vette with a rebuilt from Advance auto. Then again, my vette is no Porsche.
Click to expand...

I personally got tired of replacing autozone cheap pads every 7500 miles personally. Nearly always had warped rotors at that point also. I bought "OEM" for each car since then and one of the vehicles has hit 18,000 miles and the pads an rotors look fine, looked like about ~50% life left. The 300 is at about 9k.

The cheap ones seem to be made of crummy slag steel and crummy pad material. I never plan to use the 'cheap' brands again. I didn't do anything different with the OEMs stuff than I did with the Autozone stuff so, please, no stories about how I must have had a stuck rotor or bad pins / brake hardware.
 
Was this purely a pad and rotor replacement, or did you have to do any type of fluid change or bleeding of the brakes?
 
imagoon said:
I personally got tired of replacing autozone cheap pads every 7500 miles personally. Nearly always had warped rotors at that point also. I bought "OEM" for each car since then and one of the vehicles has hit 18,000 miles and the pads an rotors look fine, looked like about ~50% life left. The 300 is at about 9k.

The cheap ones seem to be made of crummy slag steel and crummy pad material. I never plan to use the 'cheap' brands again. I didn't do anything different with the OEMs stuff than I did with the Autozone stuff so, please, no stories about how I must have had a stuck rotor or bad pins / brake hardware.
Click to expand...


Autozone switched suppliers not to long ago and the quality went down, at least on the metallic pads.
I looked at their pads when I got my truck and even the Gold ones were basic EE rated. The ceramics are still ok, in the gold series, but the metallic are very basic ones.
 
KentState said:
Was this purely a pad and rotor replacement, or did you have to do any type of fluid change or bleeding of the brakes?
Click to expand...

pads and rotors only, the shop price includes things such as:
- labor
- tax
- $150 for pad wear sensors that I simply reused
- markup/profit on parts

my friend has a power bleeder so I'll do that myself too
 
monkeydelmagico said:
you did all 4 corners? Isn't it unusual for both front and rear to need replaced at the same time?
Click to expand...

I already had the front pads replaced once, so needed to do all 4 pads this time. Rear pads were probably down to 15-20% left and just decided to to the rear rotors while I had everything off
 
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