Wrong choice of words on my part. I meant to say, it just gives something else for an alternator to charge. It's much better to have a strong electrical system, than to try and patch a weak one with a cap.
??
Bass is a momentary load (outside of electronic bass farting.) To have enough electrical generation capacity to fill what a high-end amp can momentarily load would take a retarded number of alternators.
A capacitor evens out the load by loading the alternator when the amp is cutoff (or lightly loaded) and giving that stored charge to the amp when it's on, taking some of that load off the alternator. Instead of the alternator seeing, say, 200A-->20A--->200A-->20A and bouncing your electrical system through undervoltage/overvoltage, it sees 110A--------------->.
Caps are awesome. I would never be without one for any sub layout over 500W RMS. (My current setup is 1100W across a 1F cap pushing three 12W6's and my lights don't dim at all even with just the stock GM alternator.)
(And that's not optimistic or peak wattage rating. I have to watch it with electronic bass lest I burn through my 80A main fuse.)
As for whether that's a good deal, OP... it looks to be ~$550 worth of stuff new. $75 off after 3 years doesn't sound very good to me.
I mean, it's half the price of my sub amp alone and it does look like you get a decent amount for it, but that's a lot of power into one sub. If you don't have much room in your car it's ok, but if you have room I'd do dual/tri 15's or 18's. You can get so much more bass out of your power budget.
(Also, wear hearing protection. Damn shit's cumulative. Just because you're hearing starts off clear/clear/clear doesn't mean that it won't start going into fuzz/fuzzier/fuzzy. My hearing for low frequencies is shit now, and I'm only in my 30's.)
After looking more closely, he either misprinted or screwed up his setup. The sub is rated at 750WRMS, and being a dual 2-ohm
Where do you see that it's DVC? That's a
08VS12L72 , no?
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