• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Device that lets me turn power on/off remotely?

Muse

Lifer
My printer is upstairs but a lot of times I send to the printer from my downstairs computer. I don't want to leave the printer on all the time because it's pre-Energy Star (HP4M). So, when I print now, I have to run upstairs, turn on the printer, wait for it to warm up, then the print(s) come out, then I wait for it to rev down (figure it's cooling something), then I figure it's safe to turn it off.

If I could just turn on the printer from downstairs and then turn it off a few minutes later, when I go up there the print(s) would be sitting in the tray waiting for me. Is there a cheap device that will let me do that?
 
Look into "X10" systems. There is a huge range of devices used to remotely control electrical outlets or appliances from anywhere in your house.
 
Originally posted by: BlahBlahYouToo
it's called a wife. it's not cheap but it'll do the trick.

the newer models also do laundry and make sandwiches.

Um, my wife has to be sexy too! 😀
 
Originally posted by: Paperdoc
Look into "X10" systems. There is a huge range of devices used to remotely control electrical outlets or appliances from anywhere in your house.

Thanks. I'm having problems connecting to their website. Can't hit www.x10.com.
 
I have one of these wireless AC switches from RadioShack, but it looks like they may have discontinued it. There are lots of similar devices on the market.

FWIW, the one I have has enough range to work between the two most distant corners of my apartment. If you have a gigantic house, you may have problems.
 
Originally posted by: Aluvus
I have one of these wireless AC switches from RadioShack, but it looks like they may have discontinued it. There are lots of similar devices on the market.

FWIW, the one I have has enough range to work between the two most distant corners of my apartment. If you have a gigantic house, you may have problems.

The house is midsized... 1925 square feet, two stories. The printer's upstairs, I'll want to control it from the downstairs kitchen. X10 has a system that uses house wiring to control an appliance module, so you have to get two items. Looks like they've discontinued the controller, but I imagine they have something similar. Looks like a ~$35-40 investment if I go with X10, at least from their own online store.
 
There's this one at Amazon but I don't like my odds that it will work with the controller downstairs and the outlet upstairs. Says "up to 60 feet" but that's undoubtedly for when there are no obstructions.
 
Originally posted by: Muse
Originally posted by: Paperdoc
Look into "X10" systems. There is a huge range of devices used to remotely control electrical outlets or appliances from anywhere in your house.

Thanks. I'm having problems connecting to their website. Can't hit www.x10.com.

My Google search turned up many commercial sites like this one:
http://www.smarthome.com/_/X10...1LCu5ZwCFQtN5Qody0p4FQ

Also check out the Wiki Article for explanations:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/X10_(industry_standard)

The site you mentioned carries some X10 stuff, but is more heavily into home security systems.

One feature of X10 is that it is NOT based on a radio signal transmitted everywhere with a limited range. It depends on sending radio signals through the house wiring itself, thus establishing a range of your whole house.
 
Originally posted by: BlahBlahYouToo
it's called a wife. it's not cheap but it'll do the trick.

the newer models also do laundry and make sandwiches.

New models. Maybe a classic 1950 version but not the new energy efficient compacts. To get that service, you need to upgrade your OS to husband and install the DIY Dear package. lol
 
Originally posted by: Paperdoc
Originally posted by: Muse
Originally posted by: Paperdoc
Look into "X10" systems. There is a huge range of devices used to remotely control electrical outlets or appliances from anywhere in your house.

Thanks. I'm having problems connecting to their website. Can't hit www.x10.com.

My Google search turned up many commercial sites like this one:
http://www.smarthome.com/_/X10...1LCu5ZwCFQtN5Qody0p4FQ

Also check out the Wiki Article for explanations:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/X10_(industry_standard)

The site you mentioned carries some X10 stuff, but is more heavily into home security systems.

One feature of X10 is that it is NOT based on a radio signal transmitted everywhere with a limited range. It depends on sending radio signals through the house wiring itself, thus establishing a range of your whole house.
Does it use just one circuit or all the house's circuits. I have a number of different circuit breakers in the house's wiring.
 
Originally posted by: piasabird
3 way switch to power outlet. In living rooms they would often wire the bottom plugs to a light switch. Dont know if they have a socket that will turn on when it senses a signal to the printer.

This has a good review:

http://www.northerntool.com/we...70_200206724_200206724

Just buy a new printer.

Buy a printer for downstairs.
Mmm, this is a possibility. Actually I have a new in box Canon MP240, but I'm going to donate it. I don't want the reusables hassles, and I'm sure I'd be disappointed with the print quality compared to my HP4M. The HP is quite old, but the print quality is truly stellar. I've had it since ~1994, and it's not used a lot (around 6 cartridges is all). I absolutely have no idea why this 600 dpi printer has far sharper prints than the supposed 1200 dpi printers I see in the stores.

I could probably find a used HP4M or better yet the one that came out just after it, which is Energy Star, for not a whole lot of money.

 
Regarding the quality of the print on your HP4M, it uses a technique called RET for Resolution Enhancement Technology. (I have a HP4 with enough RAM added to do the 600 dpi it can do, and It's great!) Although it does stick to the 600 dpi system with dot positions fixed in that space, it can alter over some range the actual amount of toner laid down at each dot. I'm not sure what range it has. But just suppose that it can do four possible densities of toner at that spot. That is equivalent to dividing the dot position into a 2x2 array and printing a fixed amount of ink in each of 1, 2, 3 or 4 of those positions. In other words, having 600 dpi with four possible toner intensity levels at each dot is the same as having 1200 dpi with fixed toner levels per dot, at least in terms of ability to produce gray-scale differences. It is not quite the same in terms of ability to reproduce very fine detail, but the truth is that most paper and toner systems used for laser printing do not have the surface smoothness to allow accurate dot reproduction at 1200 dpi.

Now, back to your real question. An X10 system sends out a radio signal on the Hot and Neutral lines of the circuit it is on. Now, most households in North America are fed with a 120 / 240 V AC line from an outside transformer. View it as the two Hot lines are the opposite ends of the transformer's secondary winding that produces 240 V AC, and the Neutral line is a center tap on that winding exactly half way between the ends in terms of voltage. Further, at both the transformer and in your house, the Neutral line is securely connected to Earth Ground, so that establishes a reference point. Within your breaker panel, ALL the circuits share the same Neutral line. Approximately half of the branch circuits get their power from one of the Hot lines; the other half are fed from the other Hot line. So the signal sent out by an X10 transmitter already is being fed to half of your house's branch circuits directly. How do they reach the other half? Three possibilities. There may be some radio signal leakage between circuits within the breaker box, although this is probably small. A main route is all the way out through the feed wires to the transformer, through its secondary winding, and back in on the other Hot feed line. This certainly works, but it may suffer from signal strength loss both because the line is long, and because the transformer winding is an inductive coil with a certain amount of impedance (think like resistance) that is worse at higher radio frequencies. So, if those two mechanisms of signal transfer to the other Hot side are not good enough in your house, the X10 suppliers will sell you a third option. (I used to do this with a home-made device for a wireless baby monitor system years ago.) They will sell you a box that plugs into your electric dryer outlet (IF you have one, it is easy to access), and then your dryer just plugs into this box - does not interfere with your dryer in any way. But a dryer has BOTH Hot leads coming to it so it can use the full 240 V AC for its heater coil. The add-on box contains a suitable capacitor connected to the two Hot lines, and it allows high-frequency radio signals to pass through from one to the other, without letting any significant low-frequency (power line is at 60 Hz) power to leak across. So this device establishes within your house (shorter path) an efficient route for radio signals to reach the other half of your house wiring. That way ALL of your house wiring becomes a signal transmission system for an X10 transmitter's signal, no matter where it is.

Of course, this means that all your signals COULD get out of your house and over to your neighbor's if they also are using X10 and connected to the same transformer. And the other way around. So X10 systems have a way for each householder to set their own unique house code, plus use a set of 256 different device codes that apply within that house code. In that way you and your neighbors all can use these systems without interfering with each other.
 
Thank you Paperdoc, I just read your post and will reread it. I'm wondering if the X10 systems will work in my house. Except for a few outlets that I have physically personally connected the ground to water pipes, the rest of the wiring isn't grounded. I have produced these grounds for my washer/dryer and my refrigerator. I know, it's not "proper" grounding, but I figure it's a lot better than nothing.
 
Glad you were able to establish Ground for a few outlets. As I understand it, X10 systems do not need a Ground, though. They send the signals using the Hot and Neutral leads, with no Ground line involvement.
 
Originally posted by: Paperdoc
Regarding the quality of the print on your HP4M, it uses a technique called RET for Resolution Enhancement Technology. (I have a HP4 with enough RAM added to do the 600 dpi it can do, and It's great!) Although it does stick to the 600 dpi system with dot positions fixed in that space, it can alter over some range the actual amount of toner laid down at each dot. I'm not sure what range it has. But just suppose that it can do four possible densities of toner at that spot. That is equivalent to dividing the dot position into a 2x2 array and printing a fixed amount of ink in each of 1, 2, 3 or 4 of those positions. In other words, having 600 dpi with four possible toner intensity levels at each dot is the same as having 1200 dpi with fixed toner levels per dot, at least in terms of ability to produce gray-scale differences. It is not quite the same in terms of ability to reproduce very fine detail, but the truth is that most paper and toner systems used for laser printing do not have the surface smoothness to allow accurate dot reproduction at 1200 dpi.

I have pretty good confidence in those grounds.

When shopping for a printer I was aware of the RET on the HP4/4M printers. Mine was actually an HP4 with 4MB added RAM for the 6MB that comes with the HP4M. I bought it used/practically-new from a guy who somehow didn't think it right for him. I bought the Postscript module (not cheap!) to make it essentially the HP4M. It even has the Applescript card, although I don't know why. I swapped it out for the network card, which I picked up cheap pretty recently. The sharpness of the HP4/4M is IMO astounding! I've looked at prints made from supposedly far higher resolution printers and they never seem to have the razor sharpness of the HP4/4M. Print is virtually as sharp as a magazine. When making my decision, I compared the output with the HP4L, the other printer I was considering, and the difference was incredible. I would never have been happy with the HP4L, which was IIRC a 300 dpi printer. The printer hasn't let me down.

Edit: I just reread your explanation of how X10 systems work. Very interesting! Thanks! In my house, I don't know how well it would work. For one thing, my dryer isn't on a special 240 circuit, just a regular 120 (with my jury rigged ground). However, it might work.
 
I'm surprised to hear you have a clothes dryer that works on 120 V AC - I'm assuming it uses at least a 20 amp circuit with a plug that has two horizontal blades plus the round Ground one. A machine like that probably can use about 2000 Watts for the heating coil function, whereas the more common machines running on 240 V AC typically heat at around 5000 Watts.

Here's a bit of trivia for comparing computer printing with commercial magazine printing. If you get a magnifying glass and examine magazine prints, you will see that they are composed entirely of dots of ink. By far the most common system is called 4-color printing because it is all done with only four ink colors - cyan, magenta, yellow and black. For each color, the dots will be arranged in a square array, but for subtle reasons you can see that the four arrays are not all lined up - they are at different angles. At each dot position the amount of ink laid down appears mainly to vary in the diameter of the dot, from zero diameter (no ink) to slightly too big for its space (full ink coverage). For very good reproduction of small details in intensity of each ink when printing, the ink intensity should be variable through a range of about 256 possible levels - this is the so-called "256-level grey-scale". In computer terms, this can be accomplished if you visualize this ink "cell" location as being composed of a square array of 16 x 16 microdot positions, which gives you 256 possible densities of microdots in the cell.

Now, in commercial printing, the old way to print grey-scale images used a fine mesh screen placed in front of the original artwork when the (offset) printing plate master photograph was made. That screen broke the original image into the square array of ink dot or "cell" positions, and each of those became, on the master photo, a dot whose diameter corresponded to the darkness of the underlying spot on the original artwork. The detail in the final printed image obviously depends on how fine the screen is. Newspapers use anywhere from 60- to 90-line screens (that is, 60 to 90 screen "wires" or lines per inch). Printers using smooth glossy coated papers for sharper detail will use 150-line screens for common magazine work, and 300-line screens (sometimes even higher) for very high quality work like premiere magazines or automobile sales brochures. To translate from "screen lines" to computer printer "dpi" terms, remember that I said the way to define each ink dot position well is to use 16 microdots across the space used for one "screen line". So a 75-line printer's screen pattern can be reproduced well by a 1200 dpi printer. If you're doing 150-line screen work in commercial printing it requires a 2400 dpi printer. And the very best commercial houses will have large 4800 dpi systems and higher to "print" their master plate films. In fact, these commercial plate preparation devices do not print ink on paper. They use light (like a laser printer) to create optically-exposed or activated dots directly on special sensitized printing plates.
 
Originally posted by: Comdrpopnfresh
does the printer have WOL capability?

Um, I don't think so. The model that came out just after the HP4 and HP4M printers (the M was to support the Mac and came with the Postscript card and 6 MB RAM instead of 2 MB) was Energy Star, but the HP4/4M was not. I measured it and it runs at about 25 watts idle, no energy saving state. AFAIK, the only power saving mode is flipping the toggle switch off (or, of course, cutting power to whatever the printer is plugged into).
 
Back
Top