I've worked on some 2400s. They're mATX, no full height ATX board will fit. Uses standard size and pinout ATX PSU, though the original is pretty low capacity, can't remember exact capacity but maybe 250W. Given the CPUs they used, it probably has enough 12V capacity for a modern all-integrated system if age hasn't taken it's toll yet, but don't expect to throw much if any video card in the system using original 250W PSU.
Cooling is not a big deal, just remember it is optimized for quiet, not high thermal capacity. It won't be a reasonable gaming system unless you cut a honkin'big hole in the side panel to add another intake fan, preferably blowing across the video card, and of course replace original PSU as mentioned above.
Generally there's a rear exhaust fan mounted in a plastic shroud that drops down to partially cover a passive cpu heatsink. That is not necessarily a problem, you can simply get a normal heatsink w/fan as you would anyway, then with the board positioned where it mounts, bring the shroud towards it's mounting and note where it needs to be cut off with a hacksaw/etc to be short enough to have clearance. In some cases (Not sure about that one in particular) you can just remove the shroud altogether, then you typically need to either drill holes in the rear wall for screw mounting the fan (if enough metal remains), or use something like nylon wire-ties to strap the fan on. If too much area around the fan frame is open with the shroud removed, make a blocking panel out of cardboard and cut a hole in the middle for the fan to block off those holes, or use tape, whatever your imagination suggests, even cut a blank plate out of aluminum for the sturdiest result. It almost takes more time to write about it than do it.
The front panel is another matter, you'll need to trace the circuit back with a multimeter if the connectors aren't labeled well and they are often integrated into one or two larger blocks so you'd need salvage new connectors from an old case, or take an x-acto knife and cut that connector block up into smaller pieces, put the wires in the socket holes they need be in, and glue each top back on if it's an insulation displacement connector with a single bar securing all the wires instead of individual lock-tabs on each wire socket.
It takes a bit of time, but it's not all that hard if you're accustomed to similar tasks. Most of the cases I have at home are redone OEM cases whether they be Dell, HP, Compaq. Many which were more than about 4 years old needed more air intake area cut out in front for anything modern besides an all-integrated low end system build. With the mATX OEM cases they often mounted the HDDs vertically against the case front wall so you also have a limit to how effectively more than one can be cooled if the ambient temp isn't fairly mild (else get 5.25 to 3.5" rail adapters and mount another in an external drive bay).
You could get a case like that ready to use within a half hour if you already had the pinouts for your motherboard handy and know how to use a multimeter, soldering iron if necessary and have access to an old mom-n-pop computer shop for the front panel individual wires and connectors if you dont' have an old case you can cannibalize for them. Might not be worth the time with some cases and intended parts, but I hate to see them go into landfills just so I can pay more for frills I won't care about once the system is finished being built.
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