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I think there is a lot of info on this if you Google it but from my experience on all my cars I've gone from Regular to Synthetic and have stuck with it. No problems at the moment. But I don't think you're supposed to jump back and forth too much
 
The only problem you could have is if you have an oil leak is it would probably leak worse with synthetic than it would a dino oil. Other than that they are compatible with one another.
 
I live in a severe-duty climate so I use it. If you don't, you don't really need it. Use what your manufacturer recommends.
 
Centauri said:
Wow. That makes zero sense whatsoever.
Click to expand...

Severe duty climates benefit from synthetics - the rest of the world, not so much. If you manufacturer says run synthetic all the time, I would do that - if they recommend and factory fill with convention oil, I would do that.

You not understanding this has nothing to do with it making sense. :thumbsup:
 
No problem if you've no leaks now...if "weeping" go to a high mileage oil with extra sealants...

If you do go syn...stay with the original weight range to start...expect the syn to do some more cleaning than the conventional you MAY have been using so a bit higher consumption on the 1st OCI....but should be okay afterwards...
 
Severe duty is stop and go short trips when the engine never gets to normal operating temperature. This causes contaminates to build up in the oil instead of boiling off.
 
I use synthetics everywhere in our GX, but I do that because we use it to tow---a lot---and it's facing Southern heat while towing.

Our knock around car(s), currently a '95 Volvo 940 and a '91 Dodge DyNasty, get whatever is on sale.

Buy whatever floats your boat, but realize synthetics are no magic bullet despite what advertising tells you. Are you running your engine flat out for 5 days straight with 1600# in the trunk? If you are, you need a synthetic. Otherwise, no matter what Castrol or Mobil 1 says, you probably don't.
 
Meghan54 said:
I use synthetics everywhere in our GX, but I do that because we use it to tow---a lot---and it's facing Southern heat while towing.

Our knock around car(s), currently a '95 Volvo 940 and a '91 Dodge DyNasty, get whatever is on sale.

Buy whatever floats your boat, but realize synthetics are no magic bullet despite what advertising tells you. Are you running your engine flat out for 5 days straight with 1600# in the trunk? If you are, you need a synthetic. Otherwise, no matter what Castrol or Mobil 1 says, you probably don't.
Click to expand...


Yes, you don't "need" synthetic just like you don't "need" a car to last 200k miles. Just buy a new one at 100k like everybody else!

Synthetic breaks down slower, is more resistant to high temperatuers that occur in an engine, and doesn't become less viscous with age. By definition it protects your engine better. Now you may not care if your engine is performing at 95% or 80% after 150k miles, but some of us do.
 
Switch as much as you want.
The most important thing about considering oil changes is simply the duration in between. Synthetic or not, and brand X vs Y is almost moot for the majority of people.

Racing, Severe duty, Extreme cold play factors, but if you don't fall under these categories then no need to worry.

I'm sure I've missed some points, but its a classic case of no need to overthink it.
 
I use full synthetic (Mobil 1). I don't race or live in a brutally cold climate (Although, it is a brutal climate; Seattle).

But, my bitch reason is because I tend to do WOT city driving with <6 mile trips. I'm also particularly anal about car maintenance and will use whatever I can that is supposedly best for it. If you're like that... then go with something like Mobil 1. (Get it on sale though. It's fucking expensive.)

EDIT: And yeah, you can switch over. I have no idea what was being used when I bought my car. Guess what I did? I switched.
 
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