defogger paint did not work? advice please....

deras · Mar 1, 2001

I have a TBIRD 750

the pencil trick worked for me for about a week, then no more..

I just bought the permatex defogger stuff...

have applied it twice, and I am having the same problems as before when I try to overclock at 9.5 multiplier, it boots to 550mhz...

I applied the stuff perfectly twice to the L1 bridges, no overlap between them... and nothing... I am beginning to think this chip is un-unlockable...

Any ideas? suggestions?

Technonut · Mar 1, 2001

I am just taking a guess, but do you have an MSI Pro2A or Turbo? If not, please list your complete system specs.

deras · Mar 1, 2001

Yes I have a MSI pro2s, 256mb ram, sblive, tnt2 vanta video card, 2 7300rpm hard drives - quantum and maxtor..

Is there a relation to my problem and the MSI pro2a board?

Poof · Mar 1, 2001

Could be... I have the same conductive paint on my Duron 700, placed in the Pro2A mobo and can't get it to POST at a multiplier > 9. It took a couple of tries with closing the bridges to even get it to POST > 8.5. Others have had troubles getting it > 8.

I've been seeing posts from people speculating that the MSI's are more sensitive to the amount/consistency of voltage being applied across the newly closed bridges than other KT133 chipset mobos.

Whether this is the case or not, it's still a bit dissapointing.

Technonut · Mar 1, 2001

There have been many issues reported with the Pro2A & Turbo having multiplier adjustment problems.

I had a Pro2A that would not multiplier overclock correctly with 2 Loctite unlocked T-Birds, that would multiplier overclock perfectly on an ABIT KT7. I returned the board, and ended up with another Pro2A that I obtained from a customer that multiplier overclocked fine.

EDIT:

You could look at This, and see if it helps.

bonkers325 · Mar 1, 2001

i have a pro2a and it is fine
probably your board

get a rma

daverules · Mar 1, 2001

I just got a 1.2 ghz t-bird the other day (factory unlocked). I never saw one in 'real life' before. I just don't know how you guys do it. The L1 connections are so incredibly small. I didn't realize that they were so tiny. Not that I can help any, but good luck!

deras · Mar 1, 2001

I kind of followed the directions above... I went into bios and altered my multiplier and then I exited, according to the directions from the link above as the computer is ready to warm boot turn it off... I have no idea what that means, but I interpreted it my own way and I unplugged my computer right when I saw the video card name and mb sized displayed at the top of my monitor...

Then I turned the computer on to proceed to all the other steps and boom it was already booting to 950mhz... all i have to say is finally... now, I only have firewire and general video playback instability issues to contend with in what has been so far a unpleasant upgrade.... but hey all this pc madness is sort of fun...

deras · Mar 1, 2001

Well my success was premature....

it started booting again after 2 or 3 reboots to 550 at 9.5 multiplier (this is a 750 tbird)

I followed the overclockers.com directions more closely and was able to set things up, turn the computer off when it was ready to warm boot... then when I turned it on it did boot at 750 the chips default speed, I went into bios, the 9.5 multiplier was intact so I rebooted again.. and my friend the insidious mr. 550mhz paid me another haunting visit ( I then thew my computer out the window in my mind atleast)

joeblo123 · Mar 1, 2001

I kinda have the same prob....

I hve a K7T Turbo-raid w/ Duron 700

I can't get the system to take the multiplier at all...It took the very first boot after connecting bridges with defogger kit but after, it keeps going back to 700. I've been going mad trying to figure out what the prob is...I'm gonna try doing the bridges over again and see if it helps....

I guess if all else fails, I'll try to get a RMA on the board and see if getting another one helps....

Please let me know what if anything you find Deras....

JHalpin · Mar 1, 2001

I 've got this same problem with a Duron 700 & Pro2a. The system runs rock stable at 864(8x108) with bios 2.4 and voltages at 1.80 and 3.45. I have tried penciling and loctiteing the L1's(several times actually) and have found that 8.5X is unrecoverable(ie I have to clear the cmos to POST) and 9X-10.5X posts as if it's missing the 4X adder(ie 9x-->5x & 10x-->6x. 11x - 12.5x won't POST but that's too much to ask from a 700 part I think... Something strange I've found also is that closing the L7's for a 1.85 default voltage or using the Overclocking bios with any higher voltage actually exacerbates the situation as I can no longer attain a 8X multiplier. Any Ideas.

No solutions just telling ya what I got happening.....

poorsa · Mar 2, 2001

I have an msi k7t pro 2a and an 850 tbird that I unlocked with defoger paint and it runs perfectly at 1000 mhz. Until I set the voltage up it would only go to 900, now at 1.85 it does 1000 perfectly. I was VERY carefull when I painted the bridges and used a powerfull magnifiying glass and a sharpened tooth pick and it was still hard not to slop paint, I am shure it would not take much to cross two diffrent bridges and without the magnifying glass I do not think I could tell if a TINY amount of paint got across.

HardwareAddicted · Mar 2, 2001

I must be one of the lucky ones...

I have the same board and same defogger fluid.

I am rock solid with my Duron600 @ 10x108 for 1080mhz.

I do have the latest OCn bios and I crossed my L7 too 1.9v....

joeblo123 · Mar 2, 2001

I finally got my Duron 700 running @900...I'm able to go higher but the temp gets too high so I don't want to risk it...

I followed the instructions on the link by Technonut and it worked like a charm....Thanks Technonut!!!

I'm able to get as high as 945(9x105) but the temp gets too high...I guess I should have bought a better HSF then the CoolerMaster crap...

I'm able to change to all the multipliers from 7~9 with no probs...the FSB on the other hand is a different issue...

Also, have you guys noticed that the Core Voltage reading is not the same as what you set it as in the BIOS...i.e Bios-1.65 but reading shows 1.76....Is this a BIOS prob with MSI boards??? I read in other threads that others are having probs too....

HardwareAddicted · Mar 2, 2001

I would highly recommend the Taisol if your ok with trimming the corner off.
Again, lapping and Arctic Silver for best results.

I can also tell you that after crossing the L7 bridges, that I see a .05 jump in my voltage.

Of course, that's why I did it.

My bios says 1.85 and I get 1.9v

Good luck...

Mavo · Mar 2, 2001

Joeblo 123: Have you tried to run your Turbo-R at 133 FSB? Do you loose the 7-9 multipliers when the board is set for 133 FSB?

I am debating if I should flash to the O/C bios. I am still using the bios that came with the board. Any suggestions?

Azratax · Mar 2, 2001

Hmm, i would guess that one of the bridges is not fully closed (or your motherboard is not correctly setting the multiplier). If you look at the bit pattern for 5.5x and 9.5x, they are only one bit apart (the high bit, course). If this is true, i would reccomend that you check the bridge on each end of the L1s. Sorry for the poor explaination here... im not thinking clearly today.
-Az

joeblo123 · Mar 3, 2001

Mavo,

I just change my FSB to 133 today...I flashed with OC'er bios and it works OK now. Before, I couldn't boot up at all @133. I'm currently runnig @6.5x133 or 863mhz @ 1.65v(health says 1.76v). I can run at 7x133 fine but my HSF is not very good so I keep hitting the 50c temp so I lowered the multiplier. I haven't tried any higher FSB yet as I'm checking the stability. So far, I've been running it for 5 or so hours and no crashes at all. I'm gonna up the voltage and try the 7.5 just to test for a few minutes to see if I run into the same probs as everyone else.

If you haven't yet, I would say to flash with OC'er bios.

Let me know what kind of results you get Mavo.

heng1028 · Mar 3, 2001

i have no problem with any multiplier problem on my Pro2-A

could someone RMA their mobo with just multiplier problem??

how do they justify that mobo is defective

Mavo · Mar 4, 2001

I finally flashed to the OC bios. I'm currently running Duron 750 at 866. My temp is at 46C (using an older clip for my FOP32-1 until I get my replacement, I hope temp will be lower with stronger clip). Is 46C too high? Joeblo123, do you get the "Unknown Flash Type" message during boot-up? If not, how did you fix it?

heng1028 · Mar 4, 2001

i got the Unknown Flash Type message but everything works fine

just leave it alone

joeblo123 · Mar 4, 2001

I get the unknown flash type message also...don't think you have to worry about it

Does the clip on the CPU HSF make a difference in cooling? Since it was so hard to put the darn thing on, I used a screwdriver to bend it a bit before installing it on my MOBO. Would this make a diff? If so, how much of a diff?

Mavo · Mar 4, 2001

I think the FOP clip will apply more pressure to the CPU, and provide better contact for heat transfer. I'm not sure how much better it would be vs the clip I'm using now. Hopefully, I'll get the FOP clip in the mail tomorrow and I'll be able to test it out.

I think I may also have applied too much Arctic Silver on core.

As for the Unknow Flash Type Message, it just annoys me to see it. But besides that message, I have had no problems with the MSI Turbo.

defogger paint did not work? advice please....

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