DangerDen WC

[Gnoad]

Ok, so I've decided to look into watercooling my next computer. From everything I've read and searched for, it seems dangerden is the way to go. The problem is figuring out which parts of their's to use. I think the TDX athlon 64 waterblock seems to be the best, but do I want a lucite top or a brass top? And what about picking a radiator? They have options for a dual heatercore, which sounds nice and is cheap, or a normal radiator, which is more expensive. So, which is better? Also, which pump should I get? The d4 12volt or the Eheim 1250? For a resevoir, do I go floppy bay or dual 5 1/4? I think thats about everything, and any help would be appreciated.

 

[HardWarrior]

Picking the basic parts that comprise a water-cooler is something you should learn from basic research. During this process you'll also learn the bits you need to make the process easier in the long run. It'll also be easier to offer advice once you get the basics down:

1. You won't go wrong with a TDX. It's one of the best mass-produced blocks out right now. Lucite or brass is pretty much a matter of how you want the finished product to look. I went with Lucite.

2. Rad or core? That's a subject with lots of good reasons for both options. I decided on a rad because it looked better in my case and was designed for the environment in which it was going to be used. I'm sure someone who prefers cores will be glad to offer their reasons. If not I'll offer my thoughts on them as well. Rads are more expensive. As to which is better, I've yet to see a comparative study. You can find the numbers on rads at DD.

3. Pump? I went with the D4 because it's cool running, gives off very little EMI, is small but powerfu and again was designed for its intended use. Eheim pumps are quality, I used them for years with marine tanks, but I didn't want to try an shoe-horn one of those big, hot things into my case.

4. Part of your initial study will make you aware of the other plumbing options like fill-and-bleed and T-line configurations. Look at all of them before settling on what you want to use. All have pros and cons. As an aside, DD has new res's that aren't held together by glue. If you go res, I suggest one of those.

Where should you start to acquire some basic knowledge? Start HERE. Overclockers' FAQ's were very useful to me when I was getting started. If you have any more questions or need clarifications just ask.

 

[Gnoad]

Thanks for the help. I see in your sig you use a lian li pc75b, which is the case I plan on using. Everything fit snuggly in there? I was thinking if i got the dual 80mm radiator I could attach to one of the dual exhuast ports in the back, but instead bring air into the case and through the radiator. Seem like a good idea?

 

[gotensan01]

Originally posted by: Gnoad
Thanks for the help. I see in your sig you use a lian li pc75b, which is the case I plan on using. Everything fit snuggly in there? I was thinking if i got the dual 80mm radiator I could attach to one of the dual exhuast ports in the back, but instead bring air into the case and through the radiator. Seem like a good idea?

That is a good idea as long as you can exhaust it.

 

[iamtrout]

I remember back in the day of reading horror stories of danger den lucite tops cracking and sending water all over the place. Have the lucite tops gotten better? For this single reason I've always gone with solid metal tops.

 

[HardWarrior]

Originally posted by: Gnoad
Thanks for the help. I see in your sig you use a lian li pc75b, which is the case I plan on using. Everything fit snuggly in there? I was thinking if i got the dual 80mm radiator I could attach to one of the dual exhuast ports in the back, but instead bring air into the case and through the radiator. Seem like a good idea?

My pleasure. Well, yeah everything fit the way I wanted it too. But I didn't start with the stock case. I had it cut to accept the rad I decided on. If you want to install a dual 80mm rad you won't be able to use the ports that are mid on the back easily. There are support rails there that shouldn't be cut because they help hold the I/O plate in place. I installed mine above the PSU.

 

[HardWarrior]

Originally posted by: iamtrout
I remember back in the day of reading horror stories of danger den lucite tops cracking and sending water all over the place. Have the lucite tops gotten better? For this single reason I've always gone with solid metal tops.

Yes, they're actually made of tempered lucite now, not plexi. Also, considering the addon nozzels, more than a few people removed the tops and over-tightened upon replacement. What CPU block do you use trout?

 

[iamtrout]

Good to know. Back in the day I used a BeCooling Jagged Edge. Right now I use a Swiftech MCW6002-64 because it was cheaper than the DD TDX or RBX and has the ability to adapt to future chips by simply changing out the blue bracket.

I think Swiftech has finally started to realize that their blocks look like sh!t and are now planning some cosmetic changes in their next generation of blocks.

 

[HardWarrior]

I read a review of the 6002 series, right after I bought my TDX, that REALLY thought well of them in terms of performance. The replacable bracket is a stroke of genius and shows that Swifty engineers are thinking. You're right, the last gen blocks were straight up butt ugly.

 

[iamtrout]

Are you sure the replacable bracket is a stroke of genius or a "no sh!t sherlock!" kinda thing? I prefer the latter. I have absolutely no idea WHATSOEVER why every waterblock design doesn't incorporate a placeable bracket. It's just, I mean, wow. And the DD TDX doesn't even cover the whole IHS on the A64! I don't think it absolutely needs to, but still...

I just hope Swiftech keeps their function over form philosophy. Shouldn't be a problem considering BillA, the lead engineer, is an a$$hole, but at least knows what needs to be done.

 

[HardWarrior]

In comparison to the meatball, one-shot-charley screw mounting hardware I've had the pleasure of using, it seems to be pretty fly. I'd guess that other manufacturers haven't moved to simplify their mounting HW because they think a bunch of propellor-heads don't mind having to jump through hoops to mount a block. It'll change. A review I read mentioned the same thing about the TDX and the A64 IHS. The truth is that it looks worse than it is. The A64 core is no where near as large as the IHS, but yeah, it would look better if the block covered the entire area. Maybe DD is trying to save a few cubic feet of copper here and there.

Knows what needs to be done? More like he AND the people around him just figured out a solution that works. I'd wager that all sorts of wrinkles on the theme are just around the corner, from all quarters.