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damn..... motor = dead.

Originally posted by: Grey
Didn't you just buy this motor? Did you race it or something?

No it's the original 302 - he's just some a little porting and added some new trick flow heads.

Sucks about your engine - you could always take it somewhere and see how much it would cost to actually get fixed
 
Heh...

That's crazy. Be sure and find out exactly what the failure was so you can take measures to prevent it.

How did you find out? Was it running funny/lacking power?

302 huh? May as well just get a 350. 😛
 
Originally posted by: jeffrey
What's the problem... It sounds like you still have 7 perfectly good cylinders 😎

😀

Yeah, you could probably drive it around for another few thousand miles if you wanted to. 😉
 
absolutely no compression? since you just installed the new heads I am going to hazard a guess that somethign happened with them instead of the motor. unless you punched a hole in a piston.

Sorry dude 🙁
 
Originally posted by: Evadman
absolutely no compression? since you just installed the new heads I am going to hazard a guess that somethign happened with them instead of the motor. unless you punched a hole in a piston.

Sorry dude 🙁

True.. We need to think outside the box. A cylinder doesen't normally just lose all compression.. even if a ring broke. I'm betting a blown head gasket.

Either that or something to do with the valves. I suppose it's possible that it detonated and blew a hole in the piston, but damn.. lol.

 
Originally posted by: Eli
Heh...

That's crazy. Be sure and find out exactly what the failure was so you can take measures to prevent it.

How did you find out? Was it running funny/lacking power?

302 huh? May as well just get a 350. 😛
Add 1 more cube to that 😉

a Sportsman would be cool though NotFred! 😀 😉

You should be able to find a shortblock pretty cheap though.

 
Well, I'm not going to be able to tell for sure what it is until I pull it apart again. And yeah, it's the original 302 with 100,000 miles on it and probably 50 passes or so at the racetrack. It's possible I bent a valve, but I doubt it, we did a pretty good job putting that valvetrain together. I think that the extra airflow from the new heads might have been more than the fuel system could handle, and the car leaned out and burned a hole in the piston, or maybe just the rings. Actually, absolutely no compression isn't totally accurate, I got about 10-20psi.

Anyway, I'm planning on pulling the motor out of the car next chance I guess.
 
well, either way it still sucks ass 🙁 Do you have a dash mounted a/f indicator? if you are good at soldering you can make one that would read from a regular GM o2 sensor. Hell, if you neeed an O2 sensor I got a few, and will give ya one. you would need to weld in a bung though. Jameco sells the indicator kits for like $20
 
I've never been real big on those A/F guages. I'll probably jsut take the car to the dyno after it's together and make sure it's not leaning out.

Not the decision: go the cheapest possible route to fixing it, because I really can't afford to do any more OR buy a brand new 331 stroker on yet more credit.
 
Mebbe it just burned an exhaust valve. How about a leakdown test before you yank the engine?


JC
 
Originally posted by: Eli
Heh...

That's crazy. Be sure and find out exactly what the failure was so you can take measures to prevent it.

How did you find out? Was it running funny/lacking power?

302 huh? May as well just get a 350. 😛
Chevy engine in a Ford? Do something like that in Detroit and you'll get your ass kicked. 😛 Besides, the 351 Cleveland can wipe the floor with a 350.

ZV
 
Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
Originally posted by: Eli
Heh...

That's crazy. Be sure and find out exactly what the failure was so you can take measures to prevent it.

How did you find out? Was it running funny/lacking power?

302 huh? May as well just get a 350. 😛
Chevy engine in a Ford? Do something like that in Detroit and you'll get your ass kicked. 😛 Besides, the 351 Cleveland can wipe the floor with a 350.

ZV

but a chevy 350 costs what? $80 at a junk yard? 😛 I may not be a ford man, but even I would not put a chevy engine in a Ford.
 
Originally posted by: JC
Mebbe it just burned an exhaust valve. How about a leakdown test before you yank the engine?


JC

Yeah. Definately figure the exact cause of the problem before you start.

A/F ratio gauges rule. Why wouldn't you want one? Usually, it seems gearheads will take as much engine running information as they can get.

14.7:1 = most power.
 
Originally posted by: Eli
14.7:1 = most power.

Actually, isn't 14.7:1 just the stoichiometric ratio for perfect combustion? Isn't max power slightly richer, and max fuel economy slightly leaner? Kinda hazy here, it's been awhile.....


JC
 
Originally posted by: Eli
Originally posted by: JC
Mebbe it just burned an exhaust valve. How about a leakdown test before you yank the engine?


JC

Yeah. Definately figure the exact cause of the problem before you start.

A/F ratio gauges rule. Why wouldn't you want one? Usually, it seems gearheads will take as much engine running information as they can get.

14.7:1 = most power.

Air/Fuel gauges rule?
rolleye.gif
I think you meant a Exhaust Gas Temp gauge.
 
Originally posted by: JC
Originally posted by: Eli
14.7:1 = most power.

Actually, isn't 14.7:1 just the stoichiometric ratio for perfect combustion? Isn't max power slightly richer, and max fuel economy slightly leaner? Kinda hazy here, it's been awhile.....


JC

Hmm.. I do believe that you get the most power from a slightly lean mixture, actually.. but it's easy to burn things up.

Originally posted by: TrueBlueLS
Originally posted by: Eli
Originally posted by: JC
Mebbe it just burned an exhaust valve. How about a leakdown test before you yank the engine?


JC

Yeah. Definately figure the exact cause of the problem before you start.

A/F ratio gauges rule. Why wouldn't you want one? Usually, it seems gearheads will take as much engine running information as they can get.

14.7:1 = most power.

Air/Fuel gauges rule?
rolleye.gif
I think you meant a Exhaust Gas Temp gauge.

Uh? No.. I meant an A/F ratio gauge. I am not talking about EGT gauges.

Although, if you had to chose between one of the two, an EGT readout would be more valuble. Like I said, we'll generally take all the information we can get. 🙂
 
an A/F is easier to install, which is why I recomended it. EGT's are the most useful with one sender in each port so you can watch each cyl independently.
 
Originally posted by: Evadman
an A/F is easier to install, which is why I recomended it. EGT's are the most useful with one sender in each port so you can watch each cyl independently.

A/F to me is just for looks and not worthy of accuracy. I have yet to see one that doesn't move like it's going out of style. People who drive Civics can say, "Oh look at me... Rich, lean, rich, lean, lean, lean... Why's my motor blown?"
 
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