Damn Civic having issues again - MESSED UP, NEED HELP!

[WoodButcher]

The caliper piston won't retract on its own for a disk brake. They are designed to only go back a mm or 2 to remove pressure from the brake pad. there is no return springs unlike a wheel cylinder on a drum brake.

This... I agree with the C-clamp approach or using 2 of them. I typically just lay a wrench handle sideways where the rotor typically would be and then use another as a pry to force the caliper back. When you push on it, you're forcing fluid back up the line... Think about trying to blow air into a balloon. It's much harder at first, but gets easier....same concept with moving hydraulic fluid...once it starts moving, don't stop...keep pushing on it.

Check your pads. If they're wearing more on one side of the rotor than the other, you may just have a stuck caliper. I'd start by making sure you grease both of the bolts that hold it in place and all lube points so everything moves freely. Typically, there are rubber boots that hold the grease in place around those bolts and keep dirt out(if the assembly on a honda has them...I haven't changed the brakes on a civic in 5-6 years).

Yep, Yep.
and cap on the res off while you compress the cylinder. I use a Big C-clamp w/ a block of wood or the old brake pad over the cylinder.

 

[iamwiz82]

Your caliper is sticking. Replace the caliper/pads and you will be fine. Since you are disconnecting the caliper you will need to bleed the brakes as well. Now is as good a time as any to flush the brake fluid through the entire system.

 

[monkeydelmagico]

Yes a new caliper will probably fix the problem. However, you are possibly chucking a servicable caliper. While the caliper is fully extended inspect the rubber boot. If it is sound and has no cracks or tears slide the rubber boot back. The caliper piston has a groove that the boot fits in. Clean out the gunk that is making the caliper stick. Just use a rag DO NOT USE WD40. Grease the slide area with bearing goo. Slide boot back into place. NOW compress the piston back into the caliper.

 

[iamwiz82]

A pair of front calipers are $40 on RockAuto, for that price it's easier just to replace the entire thing.

 

[monkeydelmagico]

A pair of front calipers are $40 on RockAuto, for that price it's easier just to replace the entire thing.

Holy crap that's cheap. I cant even get calipers for my bicycle for that cheap.

Yeah, might as well just replace them for that price.

 

[Yuriman]

Holy crap that's cheap. I cant even get calipers for my bicycle for that cheap.

Yeah, might as well just replace them for that price.

On my Honda, I recently did rotors and pads all the way around, calipers on the front, and spent less than $100 + about an hour of my time. I love Rock Auto.

 

[slag]

As posted earlier, it was sticking as you can see. The inner brake pad was ground down while the outer one looked new. The slides weren't sliding, which a teardown, cleanup, and regreasing could have fixed, but yeah, with rebuilt calipers as cheap as they are, I'd just go that route.

 

[silicon]

As posted earlier, it was sticking as you can see. The inner brake pad was ground down while the outer one looked new. The slides weren't sliding, which a teardown, cleanup, and regreasing could have fixed, but yeah, with rebuilt calipers as cheap as they are, I'd just go that route.

Which kind of brake fluid will you use...silicon based or the regular type?

 

[phucheneh]

The uneven wear on the pads generally indicates sticking caliper pins and/or pad slides. Clean the pins thoroughly, apply proper high temp caliper grease, and work them in and out of their bores by hand to ensure they are moving freely. People seem to more commonly overlook the actual pad slides in the bracket, though. Aftermarket pads don't always fit quite right, and aftermarket hardware (the stamped steel bits between the caliper bracket and the side of the pads) rarely fits properly. Sometimes the stuff is thicker than factory, sometimes tabs are not quite right and 'adjustments' need to be made. And sometimes the stuff is just all rusty and/or filthy and gets jammed in place. It doesn't take much.

But if you removed the caliper and found that the piston could not be pushed back into the caliper with relatively little force*, then you're left with a hydraulic problem.

*with the proper tool, that is. The generic $5-10 single screw 'speader' generally works fine for occasional use. I have a hand-pumped one that's a little speedier and holds up to daily use better ($20-30). These options are good because they put against the right part of the caliper...the 'big C clamp' or 'huge channel locks' methods can also work fine, but you risk damaging whatever is on the other side of the caliper that you're clamping on- primarily the hose, bleeder, or the caliper body itself.

Open the bleeder valve and try again (you normally don't need to do this to retract a piston- this is merely a diagnostic step). If the piston now moves and fluid is pushed out, your culprit is probably a restriction in the brake hose. If it's still stuck, you need a caliper. The seal that rides the side of the piston (not the external dust boot) is probably swollen, torn, or otherwise causing the piston to hang.

All of this may have already been stated, but I just figured a good condensing of info was in order. You shouldn't be having such headaches over a fairly simple brakejob. Store the knowledge you've gained, combine it with common sense and attention to detail (not saying you lack those things; just pointing out their importance with stuff like brakes. Hell, most car stuff), and you'll be a pro at servicing 90% of the disc brakes out there. It's easy stuff. But easy stuff that is critical to your car being able to stop.