Cyclists - how good is your gear?

[speg]

So, I'm hoping to go on some longer bike rides this summer. Like 2 weeks 750+ mile type stuff. But I don't really have any "pro" gear. I bought some $400 off-brand road bike on sale at a department store last year, and it's fine for what I do, but I'm not sure what an extra $1000 would bring to the table.

Why is this stuff so expensive? $1,500 for a bike? What are you getting for that price? Is it just better quality stuff, or am I missing some "pro features" that I don't know about. Any recommendations for beginner touring would be great.

 

[Blieb]

Component quality is about 70% of the difference. You really can feel a difference.
The rest is a LOT more expensive and will be weight related.

Without knowing your components ... it's hard to say ...

 

[Andrew1990]

I would say that the more expensive stuff will endure a little more punishment.

I just use a cheap sekine toruing bike I found in the trash and it works fine except a little maintenance is required.

 

[theblackbox]

Originally posted by: speg
So, I'm hoping to go on some longer bike rides this summer. Like 2 weeks 750+ mile type stuff. But I don't really have any "pro" gear. I bought some $400 off-brand road bike on sale at a department store last year, and it's fine for what I do, but I'm not sure what an extra $1000 would bring to the table.

Why is this stuff so expensive? $1,500 for a bike? What are you getting for that price? Is it just better quality stuff, or am I missing some "pro features" that I don't know about. Any recommendations for beginner touring would be great.

just because it's expensive doesn't make it better. some gear that goes top dollar is just delicate, take dura-ace and xtr for an example. both are incredible, there is no doubt, i used to have a short cage xtr der. that i absolutely loved, shifted like a road bike, smooth, smooth smooth. but the fact is, when they build lighter components, they become more delicate. in some cases, companies offer lower cost beefier components that are just as good as their high end gear, it's just heavier.
campy is a different story, all their stuff clicks and clacks regardless of the price, but thats how the euro riders like it. it's all about weight.

now when you look at frames, cost is a big factor. if you look at cheap aluminum frames made overseas to quality frames, like handmade frames like, say Moots, where each frame is handmade and they back their products. That frame may mean a big difference, especially if you are logging big miles. I hate to use canondale as an example, they make some good frames, but look at touring frames. Personally i wouldn't want to ride any aluminum frame for more then 100 miles at a time. titanium is more supple and forgiving, steel is sooooo supple. moots makes a touring frame (or did) that is just so smooth.

it is my belief though, ride what you like and enjoy it. if you spend your time concerned about how well something you don't have rides, you'll never get the enjoyment out of what you have.

 

[ISAslot]

Quality components + weight savings

 

[FleshLight]

$1500 for an LBS bike gets you the custom fitting, warranty, and tuneups.

For $1500, you should be able to get a full 105 Gruppo or 105/Tiagra gruppo, which will probably last a lifetime given that you don't crash and maintain it once in awhile.

But if you know your size, buying off CL is the way to go.

 

[theeedude]

Up to about $1500, (Aluminium frame bike, with Ultegra level components) you are paying for more durable components that stay in tune and perform better and longer. It is worth spending a little more in this range if you plan to spend a lot of time riding, especially if you are heavier stronger rider who needs more durability.
After that you are paying for reduced weight (Duraace, Red components, carbon fiber frames) and improved frame aerodynamics. This is more for racing and or show, though it does help smaller lighter riders somewhat, and the sky is the limit, while diminishing returns kick in. There are some improvements aside from weight here, like longer warranties, etc, but it's incremental return for doubling of component price.
Ultimately, it depends how much you plan on riding. I would stick to 105 or above level components, preferably Ultegra, but unless you plan on riding a whole lot, probably stop there. I am aiming to make it about 10 cents a mile in terms of equipment. I spent $1300 on my bike, and I am going to ride it at least until 13000 miles before I get a new one

 

[spacejamz]

Originally posted by: senseamp
Up to about $1500, (Aluminium frame bike, with Ultegra level components) you are paying for more durable components that stay in tune and perform better and longer. It is worth spending a little more in this range if you plan to spend a lot of time riding, especially if you are heavier stronger rider who needs more durability.
After that you are paying for reduced weight (Duraace, Red components, carbon fiber frames) and improved frame aerodynamics. This is more for racing and or show, though it does help smaller lighter riders somewhat, and the sky is the limit, while diminishing returns kick in. There are some improvements aside from weight here, like longer warranties, etc, but it's incremental return for doubling of component price.
Ultimately, it depends how much you plan on riding. I would stick to 105 or above level components, preferably Ultegra, but unless you plan on riding a whole lot, probably stop there. I am aiming to make it about 10 cents a mile in terms of equipment. I spent $1300 on my bike, and I am going to ride it at least until 13000 miles before I get a new one

got a full Ultegra setup on my bike for $999...components alone were worth about $1400...on a windsor falkirk frame from cycle spectrum....

been pretty happy with so far....

Can't believe this link still works.... this is pretty much the bike I have except it is a 30 speed...

 

[arrfep]

Trek 520 cost me $1k. Thing is built like a brick shithouse. The wheels that it came spec'ed with were LX hubs laced to Bontrager rims, Mustangs I think. I cannot tell you the kind of punishment I put those things through and after a 4000 mile tour they were still true. In some cases you do get what you pay for.

 

[Cdubneeddeal]

After buying a bike from Bikesdirect and then selling it to step up to a Cannondale XR7, the difference is night and day. Smoother and precise shifts and it just feels sturdier. You might say it's the placebo effect. The only thing I wish my bike had were at least Tiagra shifters rather than the Sora's. They work well though.

 

[Farang]

If you get an old steel frame bike with a wider wheelbase and a perfect fit for your body, and invest in your favorite type of handlebars for it, that is all you need for touring.

 

[iGas]

Shimano Deore LX is the lowest I would go on an MTB. LX is heavier, doesn't last as long, or look as nice as over priced XTR, but it is just about as smooth as XTR groupo.

Shimano 105 is the lowest I would go for a road bike. 105 just as smooth as Durace, but it is heavier, not as durable, and doesn't look as slick as the over priced Durace groupo

My road bike have 105, and MTB have XT.

 

[theblackbox]

Originally posted by: iGas
Shimano Deore LX is the lowest I would go on an MTB. LX is heavier, doesn't last as long, or look as nice as over priced XTR, but it is just about as smooth as XTR groupo.

Shimano 105 is the lowest I would go for a road bike. 105 just as smooth as Durace, but it is heavier, not as durable, and doesn't look as slick as the over priced Durace groupo

My road bike have 105, and MTB have XT.

i've never had lx shift as smoothly as xtr. lx is much more durable then xtr though. i finally scrapped my xtr and moved to XT on my new frame. XT is almost bulletproof. almost.

the LX crank is just as good as the xt crank at a fraction of the cost. the xtr crank is just silly.

sad thing is, all the shimano mtb shifters suck. i moved from xtr short throw to gripshift and at a quarter of the cost i get smoother shifting and the ability to adjust smoothly. plus, the friction shifting of gripshift is right up there with the old deore family thumb shifters.

105 was a great group when it was introduced, a nice low level for shimano (as it used to be shimano road lx), still kind of is as far as two ring sets go.
I always found FULL dura-ace to shift much smoother then 105, but i always enjoyed the 600(ultegra) family as a good compromise of performance and cost.

 

[darkxshade]

:heart: my carbon fiber bike frame... it's like riding on butter