Cyberpower CP850 vs. Mr Coffee 900W 12 cupper

[BarkingGhostar]

I routinely go through Mr Coffee 12-cup non-programmable coffee makers. No big deal as they are cheap as hell in Wally World. Mr. Coffee says these are 900W units. Cool beans.

I have a Cyperpower CPL850 uninterruptible power supply that I had down in my home theater. This unit was bought at least a decade ago but there is a sticker on the bottom of the unit calling it CPL850/20040666 and I may be incorrectly guessing the manufacture date of the unit is from 2004. I just don't know because nothing else on the unit says when it was made and I have not yet removed the RB1290A replacement battery. The battery itself is a 12V/8Amp output unit.

I figured while the UPS was rated for only 510W and the coffee maker 900W then one shouldn't go expecting the UPS to be able to run the coffee maker on battery power alone. But when I pulled the UPS from the home theater it was because the wife and I heard it start clicking for no reason (even when the HT wasn't in use). Recently I brought the UPS upstairs and plugged it in and allowed it to fully charge. Took about 12 hours but the LCD panel reported Normal operating conditions, full capacity and no load with 120V available. I plugged in the coffee maker to the SURGE-only plug and ran the maker without bothering the UPS.

I repeated the experiment the following day only I plugged the maker into the SURGE+BATTERY outlet and as soon as I switched on the maker the UPS tripped, made a persistent wining sound even after I turned the maker off. BTW, the maker actually never turned on as apparently it didn't see enough voltage+current (e.g. 900W @ line voltage). I unplugged the maker and the UPS continued its wining and not the front LCD panel read 50% capacity and no load but now a condition of 0 Volts available.

I know this UPS isn't capable of handling the coffee maker but I wouldn't have thought plugging a load into the SURGE+BATTERY with line voltage readily available to cause a problem and report a UPS condition as it did. Any ideas, thoughts?

The placement battery is apparently only ~$40, but I need something a little more umph, if you will. I need something I can put inline between a Panamx Line Conditioner with all of the HT components plugged into it and the wall outlet. Even with a Cyberpower 1350VA/810W I am concerned about how I originally had the UPS in service to protect only the projectors.

Moved from OT.
admin allisolm

 

[13Gigatons]

The coffee maker needs a steady 900watts from the wall to actually work. That is just to much for a lightweight UPS. The UPS was built for half-loads and less. It also should only be used on PC type stuff. I definitely don't recommend it for a coffee maker. Maybe get a small generator?

 

[BarkingGhostar]

Only on PC type stuff? You are aware they market UPS for a bunch of other applications not related to PCs, right? In fact this one is marketed as AVR, for Audio and Video. They have a separate line for PCs, which is the ST line.

Admin, I wasn't aware that UPS used in the application of home theater and a discussion of what happens when a coffee maker is attached was PC-specific. I felt the Power Supplies chat room was literally for PC PSUs. Should all power discussions be done in the power Supplies chatroom? Examples needing your guidance: Tesla Powerwalls, Panamax Home Theater power conditions, etc.

 

[mindless1]

This is expected and not a sign of a fault (by itself) because that has AVR (automatic voltage regulation), so it is continually powering the load even with AC mains live into it.

It seems like you don't really need an UPS for your home theater, could just use a good surge protector. "Some" people might even say one with AVR has the potential to degrade the sound quality of a good linear (class A or A/B operating within A region) amp. "Other" people might say they can't hear a difference. That's audio.

If you really need a coffee maker to work during a power outage, I suggest looking into 12V units for RVs/etc and powering it direct from a battery. Personally if power is out, I won't be savoring coffee and if I just need a caffeine jolt, I can guzzle down some cold, instant coffee or whatever. Come to think of it, they make canned coffee now, I mean ready to drink as a beverage.

 

[BarkingGhostar]

The problem with UHP-lit projectors is that one cannot easily power them back on with a sudden power loss. For brownout conditions, which my county can experience a couple of times a year, this is essential if I do not want to watch half a movie because I cannot h=get the UHP lamp to relight after a power loss.

What I think I can do is remove the AVR/amps from the Panamax and plug them directly into the SURGE-only part of the UPS, while the Panamax is plugged into the SURGE+Battery. The projectors are about 300-350 Watts (each; only one used at a time) and I would imagine the Blu-ray, Xbox, etc. not much more.

 

[13Gigatons]

The problem with UHP-lit projectors is that one cannot easily power them back on with a sudden power loss. For brownout conditions, which my county can experience a couple of times a year, this is essential if I do not want to watch half a movie because I cannot h=get the UHP lamp to relight after a power loss.

What I think I can do is remove the AVR/amps from the Panamax and plug them directly into the SURGE-only part of the UPS, while the Panamax is plugged into the SURGE+Battery. The projectors are about 300-350 Watts (each; only one used at a time) and I would imagine the Blu-ray, Xbox, etc. not much more.

Protecting the projector makes perfect sense and will only pull 200w in eco-mode. Just make sure you get a UPS with double or triple the load. The battery run time is greatly overstated on the box.

On the other hand a 900w coffee maker needs double or triple that to really work, maybe a hefty 2000 watt model would work.

BTW: My coffee maker is 15 years old.