CyberPower 425VA UPS $19.99 after $10 easy rebate

[Karaktu]

Originally posted by: dguy6789
I did find this:

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm...m/ccd/productDetail.do

$10 more, no rebates involved, so you pay out of pocket at first the same for this and the one the thread is about, and this one is more powerful.

Will someone please explain to me what automatic voltage regulation is and more importantly, if it would be useful to me or not?

$10 more, but a little "bigger" (550va).

AVR is like line conditioning. If you have noticeable light flickering in your home, AVR would definitely help keep your PC stable.

Definition of: voltage regulator

An electronic circuit used to maintain a level amount of voltage in an electrical line. It eliminates power surges, spikes and brownouts, which can cause harm to sensitive electronics. A voltage regulator "module" (VRM) is a voltage regulator in a replaceable unit.

 

[SunnyD]

Originally posted by: VirtualLarry
Only 230W? Not good enough for a computer. What are you guys planning on using this for?

Cable modem, router, VOIP box and telephone (cordless/base station of course). If any one of those go down in a power outage, you have no phone service. This UPS should easily handle those services for 6-10 hours at least.

 

[dguy6789]

Originally posted by: Karaktu

Originally posted by: dguy6789
I did find this:

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm...m/ccd/productDetail.do

$10 more, no rebates involved, so you pay out of pocket at first the same for this and the one the thread is about, and this one is more powerful.

Will someone please explain to me what automatic voltage regulation is and more importantly, if it would be useful to me or not?

$10 more, but a little "bigger" (550va).

AVR is like line conditioning. If you have noticeable light flickering in your home, AVR would definitely help keep your PC stable.

Definition of: voltage regulator

An electronic circuit used to maintain a level amount of voltage in an electrical line. It eliminates power surges, spikes and brownouts, which can cause harm to sensitive electronics. A voltage regulator "module" (VRM) is a voltage regulator in a replaceable unit.

Alright. Looks like I am going to have to shell out $50 for the one I originally intended to buy:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/...16812106005&Tpk=le1200

 

[Karaktu]

I don't see where that is a battery backup, just an AVR. Theoretically, you could plug your battery backup(s) into this AVR (if they didn't have AVR).

I have 1285va and 1500va UPS(es) w/ AVR at my house, on just about everything (including LCD TVs).

685va w/ AVR $69.99 at Outpost.com

They sometimes have refurbs of these for $39.99.

ProVantage has a new one for $57.20 + shipping (about $12).

Originally posted by: dguy6789

Originally posted by: Karaktu

Originally posted by: dguy6789
I did find this:

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm...m/ccd/productDetail.do

$10 more, no rebates involved, so you pay out of pocket at first the same for this and the one the thread is about, and this one is more powerful.

Will someone please explain to me what automatic voltage regulation is and more importantly, if it would be useful to me or not?

$10 more, but a little "bigger" (550va).

AVR is like line conditioning. If you have noticeable light flickering in your home, AVR would definitely help keep your PC stable.

Definition of: voltage regulator

An electronic circuit used to maintain a level amount of voltage in an electrical line. It eliminates power surges, spikes and brownouts, which can cause harm to sensitive electronics. A voltage regulator "module" (VRM) is a voltage regulator in a replaceable unit.

Alright. Looks like I am going to have to shell out $50 for the one I originally intended to buy:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/...16812106005&Tpk=le1200

 

[jrichrds]

Originally posted by: CybrGuy
Just ordered 5 used a 30$/150 coupon and added a 59cent pack of paper clips. Total price per unit was 15.60 after rebate.

What do you search for to get those 59cent paper clips? Cheapest I found was $1.09.

 

[VirtualLarry]

Originally posted by: jrichrds

Originally posted by: gorcorps

Originally posted by: VirtualLarry
Only 230W? Not good enough for a computer. What are you guys planning on using this for?

Not everybody has a gaming PC, or a desktop for that matter.

My overclocked E7200 system consumes less than 40W from the wall at idle and less than 90W at load. I currently have it on a 350VA/200W UPS.

I call shens on that. At 75% efficiency, that would mean that your entire system, CPU, chipset, HD, video card, and all, takes less than 30W DC. That's not currently possible, AFAIK. I think your Kill-A-Watt device is getting confused by active PFC, that happens I heard.

 

[Karaktu]

Originally posted by: VirtualLarry

Originally posted by: jrichrds

Originally posted by: gorcorps

Originally posted by: VirtualLarry
Only 230W? Not good enough for a computer. What are you guys planning on using this for?

Not everybody has a gaming PC, or a desktop for that matter.

My overclocked E7200 system consumes less than 40W from the wall at idle and less than 90W at load. I currently have it on a 350VA/200W UPS.

I call shens on that. At 75% efficiency, that would mean that your entire system, CPU, chipset, HD, video card, and all, takes less than 30W DC. That's not currently possible, AFAIK. I think your Kill-A-Watt device is getting confused by active PFC, that happens I heard.

With onboard or low-grade graphics, it's totally possible (with Speedstep and other power-saving technologies enabled).

 

[dguy6789]

Darn now I am confused, been getting recommended different things from different people. My problem is that my power fluctuation is enough to turn my router on and off sometimes. I just want that to stop happening mainly. I also imagine that just can't be good for my pc anyway. Should I just shell out for this and get peace of mind then?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/...x?Item=N82E16842102044

Edit: No fvcking way. Newegg wants $21 to ship this to me.

 

[Throckmorton]

You can usually find a ~500va UPS for about $40-60 at a local computer store. I bought an APC at Circuit City a while back.

 

[khurios2000]

Originally posted by: CybrGuy

Originally posted by: khurios2000
my E8400 overclocked to 4.25Ghz + 9800GX2 overclocked 700/1750/100 running dual GPU2 folding@home only cunsumes 140W according to kill-a-watt

Kill-A-Watts are cool aren't they!

Just keep in mind it will draw a lot more when not idle. A few people have posted that their 9800gx2s use about 180 watts at peak. Load up a game and check your power usage then. My guess is that your power will go up to about 300W when running a game.

GPU2 stressed more than gaming, since each GPU assigned to a Work unit.

when gaming my system draw 125w (9800gx2 SLI in action).

hard to believe isnt it?

 

[jrichrds]

Originally posted by: VirtualLarry

Originally posted by: jrichrds

Originally posted by: gorcorps

Originally posted by: VirtualLarry
Only 230W? Not good enough for a computer. What are you guys planning on using this for?

Not everybody has a gaming PC, or a desktop for that matter.

My overclocked E7200 system consumes less than 40W from the wall at idle and less than 90W at load. I currently have it on a 350VA/200W UPS.

I call shens on that. At 75% efficiency, that would mean that your entire system, CPU, chipset, HD, video card, and all, takes less than 30W DC. That's not currently possible, AFAIK. I think your Kill-A-Watt device is getting confused by active PFC, that happens I heard.

E7200 CPU is running at 1.02v. And I'm using integrated graphics (single-chip Geforce7050/nForce 610i) and C1E/Speedstep enabled. I do use an Earthwatts 380W with Active PFC, so I don't know if my Kill-a-Watt is giving accurate readings. But I do think that level of energy efficiency is possible.

 

[VirtualLarry]

Originally posted by: jrichrds
E7200 CPU is running at 1.02v. And I'm using integrated graphics (single-chip Geforce7050/nForce 610i) and C1E/Speedstep enabled. I do use an Earthwatts 380W with Active PFC, so I don't know if my Kill-a-Watt is giving accurate readings. But I do think that level of energy efficiency is possible.

1.02v? Is that manually undervolted, or is that what SpeedStep/C1E is doing. I guess after further consideration, 30W is probably possible.

 

[jrichrds]

Originally posted by: VirtualLarry

Originally posted by: jrichrds
E7200 CPU is running at 1.02v. And I'm using integrated graphics (single-chip Geforce7050/nForce 610i) and C1E/Speedstep enabled. I do use an Earthwatts 380W with Active PFC, so I don't know if my Kill-a-Watt is giving accurate readings. But I do think that level of energy efficiency is possible.

1.02v? Is that manually undervolted, or is that what SpeedStep/C1E is doing. I guess after further consideration, 30W is probably possible.

Not that good. By "less than 40W", I meant high 30's.
This particular E7200 has a stock min-max of 1.050-1.0625v, which my board runs at 1.02v idle (C1E) and 1.028v load. Runs fine at 3.16Ghz at this voltage.

I have to take my "energy-efficient" AMD X2 BE-2300 all the way down to 0.8v to get below 40W at idle (once again, measured by a Kill-a-watt on an Active PFC PSU).