Custom water cooling setup has failed Help !

[Markfw]

So, it has water in the reservoir , and all the rad fans are spinning. water is clear. But in bios, it goes to 90c, then shuts down.

Pump bad ? 6 months old for supposedly the best pump/reservoir you can buy ?

This one
XSPC D5 Photon Reservoir/Pump Combo V2, 270mm (SATA Power)

 

[DaaQ]

Are you able to see coolant flow?
First thing to do is determine if you have flow or not? If not, then is it the pump or clogged block?

 

[StefanR5R]

What @DaaQ said. Without hearing, you can check whether the pump runs at all either by the vibrations, or simply by seeing the water move in the reservoir --- when the pump is at full speed. (I don't have this pump myself; but I guess it should be so from my pwm controlled D5 pumps from EK.)

If it turns out that the pump is still operating, then IMO the next thing to do would be to empty the loop, take out the CPU water block, open it, and check for dirt buildup.

But if the pump is defective, and you are thinking about going back to air cooling, then do not get the WraithRipper. The 2990WX air cooler tests which I have seen show WraithRipper as about the worst air cooler for 2990WX, and Noctua still as the best.

 

[Markfw]

The water is so clear that you can't see anything move. I am now deaf, so that out. Will try to see if I can feel anything. When I first built it, the inbound line was warm, and the outbound line (from the cpu) was a little warmer. Now one is HOT and the other cold.

 

[StefanR5R]

When I first built it, the inbound line was warm, and the outbound line (from the cpu) was a little warmer. Now one is HOT and the other cold.

This sounds as if water is still somewhat circulating, but channels in the waterblock been clogged with dirt. This would cause a very high temperature differential from inlet to outlet of the waterblock, without actually cooling the processor.

There could be dirt in the loop for example if the radiator wasn't properly cleaned by the manufacturer. (Which is why it is recommended that buyers thoroughly rinse radiators themselves before putting them into the loop. First with tap water, then with distilled water.)

At least the good news is that there is a chance that your pump is still well and fine.

 

[Markfw]

OK< so I can feel this, and the rpm for the pump (verified in bios) is 0 rpm for quite a while, then jumps to 700, 2100, 3200 (one if these, random) for a second or two then back to zero. The pump definitely is the problem. Or the pump controller, its all one unit. I got this one my recommendation, but I want to replace it long-term. Ifs keeping it at 68f in windows now, but very intermittant.

So what should I get ?

 

[StefanR5R]

Granular dirt in the loop could also destroy a pump. So, when you take the loop apart, better be safe and take the time to open the water block to check for possible contaminants. And if it is easy to open the pump, have a look in there too to further get to the bottom of this defect.

Does anybody know whether XCSP use real Laing D5s, or only some wannabe D5 clones?

My first pumnp was a DDC-like pump in a modular AIO from EKWB. I first expanded that AIO with a GPU waterblock, then with a second radiator, and then the pump broke down and killed the CPU with it. (And the plexi top of the CPU block which I had at that time was killed too; basically the fittings fell out of their threads when the loop overheated. For this reason I now have no plexi in my loops anymore, except for the reservoir shafts.)

Now I have four EKWB D5 pumps, all of the PWM controlled type; two with reservoir top and two standalone with acetal top. The first of these pumps I believe I bought a little less than two years ago. It is now working in my triple-GPU computer with CPU block, three GPU blocks, internal 280 mm radiator, external MoRa 360, and quick disconnect fittings between case and MoRa. The D5 isn't having an easy time with a large loop like this, but is adequate.

 

[Markfw]

Thinking of this one:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...K-XRES_140_Revo_D5-_-9SIAC8W6MG2208-_-Product

EKWB EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 RGB PWM

What do you think ? better than the other ?

 

[DaaQ]

is that a pwm D5? I'm not terribly familiar with the v2.
All v1 were varios.
IIRC there is an issue with PWM contolled D5s or was it Corsair fans?? something about fake PWM or not to spec PWM sorry I really cant remember or find the info about it.

 

[DaaQ]

Not to mention if it is the pump rma and replace the pump.

The Photon uses a Laing D5 XSPC branded.

I still think blockage needs to be checked for

 

[Markfw]

It runs sometimes now for 5-10 minutes, then shuts down, and I don't know why,

 

[Markfw]

OK, the pump quit altogether, so I am up on the dreaded Enermax 360 "failure" AIO. Let see how long it works for, and at what temps. When the old custom block was running, right before it does, it was 68-71c. Its still running 68c on the enermax. Going to try the old OC@1.3 vcore and 3700 and see what happens.

 

[aigomorla]

If water is not circulating, then dont run the system.
Things will just get hotter and hotter, and convection cooling on liquid really sucks.

The easiest way to check to see if the pump is working or not, is to just pull the PWM header off and feel the pump.
With the pwm header off, the pump should run at a set speed and not change RPM.
You can then feel the pump.
You will notice it if its on or off by the vibration the pump is making.

If you feel the pump vibrating, then you got something clogged in your system and may require you to tear it down.

I have never heard of a D5 dying this fast.
They usually are about the most reliable pump you can buy.
I even have 2 which are 10yrs old still going on strong.

For now pull the PWM header, and give power to it, and see if it will turn on.

 

[StefanR5R]

The easiest way to check to see if the pump is working or not, is to just pull the PWM header off and feel the pump.
With the pwm header off, the pump should run at a set speed and not change RPM.

The XSPC pump which Mark pointed to in post #1 is controlled by a tiny speed dial, not by PWM.

@Markfw, I agree that it is worthwhile to re-test the pump (either with the intact loop, or if you took the loop apart already, with a minimum test loop consisting of filled resevervoir + pump combo and just a single pipe which connects inlet and outlet).

And after that, independent of the outcome of the pump test, take the CPU waterblock apart and look whether it caught any dirt in its fins.

 

[aigomorla]

The XSPC pump which Mark pointed to in post #1 is controlled by a tiny speed dial, not by PWM.

thats wierd v2 is usually pwm....
pwm usually is controlled by the sense line.

 

[StefanR5R]

Hmm. Maybe it's both? I haven't looked for a manual, just saw some pictures and a brief description at one of the online shops.

 

[Markfw]

I sent pictures to XSPC, the rotor was out of balance, and since it always vibrated, it was since it was new. I had no idea they should not vibrate. Anyway, they are sending me a new rotor or pump, not sure which. Here is a pic:

 

[Markfw]

See the scarring ? thats what make it lock up, They said they would send a rotor, but I want a whole new pump. Where did the brown stuff come from ? its nowhere else in the loop ? CPU block looks fine.

It does not show well, but here is the CPU block, and in the backgroup the resovoir.

 

[aigomorla]

it could be a couple of things.
It could be from the filing down from the impeller.
It could also be from left over residue from the radiator which accumulated in the pump.

It seems like the main pump is fine.
The impeller not being balanced is a new occurrence for me.

You can try to contact RMA department, as request the unit to be replaced and see what they say.
You will most likely have to send the pump out first to get this done tho.

 

[Markfw]

OK< they RMA'ed the pump, and I have another radiator. Question is, that brown stuff... I used distilled water and the silver coil. Should I buy some coolant like this ? : https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-...remix+coolant&qid=1558722810&s=gateway&sr=8-9

And can I mix distilled water with this stuff, as 1000 ml will not fill my reservoir and radiators ?

 

[StefanR5R]

It is not recommended to use a silver coil in a loop which has nickel plated components. (I don't know if you have any.)

You can dilute anti-freeze mixtures further, but not much, as they will lose their biocide property below a certain concentration.

Furthermore, you can buy anti-freeze over at the next petrol station* or chemist*; no need to wait for it to be delivered via mail order.

________
*) I pretend to be British today.

 

[Markfw]

Regular anti-freeze works in water cooling setups for computers ?

 

[StefanR5R]

Yes.

PC watercooling mixtures are either the same as automotive antifreeze, or almost the same. Different dye perhaps (or better: no dye), or/ and moved to a propylene (?) glycol basis instead of ethylene glycol, as the former is not as deadly to pet dogs as the latter.

I am using distilled water mixed with with Glysantin G48 concentrate, which is a common car antifreeze in Europe. (Edit: Of course, while there is little use for the antifreeze feature in PCs, their function in PC watercooling is as biocide, corrosion inhibitor, and pump lubrication.)

 

[aigomorla]

2:8 concentration mix for propylene glycol. 20% propylene... 80% distilled water.

Just make sure its propylene and ethylene for reasons stated above.

The only time i advise in using premixes is if your using a block which has really poor nickle plating, as its the only way you will get an RMA for nickle flaking. So in essense premix's is a sort of warranty protection for nickle plated blocks.

Othwerise if i just dont care about the nickle or am not running any nickle, i will run with a silver coil as its much easier and cleaner on the system.
Silver leaves no residue like premixes and antifreeze does.

 

[Markfw]

I could not find any propylene anywhere, its all ethylene, so thats what I got.

Edit: there is a little residue in the pump, hence why I took the advice to use anti-freeze. See the brown residue ?

BTW, I have a 2nd rad, and am building a new computer (2990wx again) with that Thermaltak 900 tower, and all the parts should be in, in the next 10 days.