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Critique Mid Range Build Please

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I bought a DisplayPort to mini DisplayPort cable and have been using that. Is the DVI-D Dual link cable the same as a regular DVI Cable? My next step tonight was to try the HDMI and the DVI and see if they work. I wanted to use the DisplayPort because the 280X only has 1 DVI output and I wanted to run 2 monitors. I know there's multiple ways to skin this cat just figured I would go for the future and use DisplayPort.
 
A "regular" DVI cable would be a single link cable - it has a lower bandwidth, half that of the dual link cable, and can't handle 1080p @ 120hz (or 144hz for that matter).

I would assume that it should work via DP too just fine. Are you sure you've connected the PCIe power connectors on it? And when you power on, the card's fans are spinning, right?
 
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Yep the card is powered up. My old monitor via DVI works just fine on the new video card.

I did actually last minute switch monitors to a 60Hz. Saved a 100 bucks. I figured I wasn't 100% sold on the 120Hz and for the most part I've been very happy with my past monitors.
 
Sounds good. It would be good to know though whether the displayports on the card are actually functional or not... but to test them with your new monitor you'd need a semi-expensive active adapter
 
Yeah that's my issue. I don't know if its the video card, or the monitor, or the cable that is the problem.

I'm thinking I may end up making a run to Best Buy tonight or tomorrow and picking up a monitor with displayport. If it doesn't work then I can attribute the issue to the video card. If it does work then I'll keep it and just return the defective monitor. I've got a sneaky feeling that may be the only way I can get to the bottom of it. I hate to use DVI and make it work and then find out years from now my displayports are busted.
 
Okay. Also, have you tried removing the graphics card and connecting to the DVI or VGA port on the motherboard? I'd do that before buying a new monitor.
 
Regarding the heatsink, does the base actually rotate or is it just the fins that move? The fins moving is completely normal for a tower cooler, but the base should be solid.

As for the display issue, have you gotten picture out of ANY monitor? The reason that I ask is that it's much more likely to have a problem that prevents the PC from POST'ing rather than a bad monitor. All of the fans spinning up on a PC isn't really indicative of anything other than the components having power. There's plenty of other problems that can prevent POST, such as:

- Missing 4/8-pin ATV12V power connector
- Motherboard shorted against case
- Faulty add-in card
- Bad RAM
 
Ok. I got the monitor working. Umm I guess I was kinda tired last night. Issue was I didn't have the cable seated 100% into the monitor... Rookie Mistake oops.

As far as the heatsink goes its not just the fins the base can rotate if you put enough pressure on it. For the most part its really solid and I'm running 32 C. We'll see if I decide to return it. I just don't like the idea of it moving at all.

Now I just need to figure out windows 8... The way it keeps bouncing back and forth between metro and the desktop is weird. I'm going to try and get used to it. I'll start taking bets on how long till I go into permanent classic mode.
 
For the most part its really solid and I'm running 32 C.

Idle temps are rather meaningless and irrelevant. Run Prime95 small FFT's test for example and see what your temperature is in about 5-10 minutes of testing. Monitor with HWMonitor or HWinfo64, for instance
 
Running Prime95 small FFT and using HWinfo64. Under load I'm running about 70C.

I guess I should research what typical temps are in that scenario but it seems a little high to me.
 
Running Prime95 small FFT and using HWinfo64. Under load I'm running about 70C.

I guess I should research what typical temps are in that scenario but it seems a little high to me.

My set-up is pretty similar to yours, and I get a max temp of 67C with that test. I think you're fine.
 
What about the Corsair Power Supplies? I had a Corsair in the past it seemed solid.

The 400R can be comboed with this:

CORSAIR CX Series CX750 750W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply New 4th Gen CPU Certified Haswell Ready
$89.99

I guess I need to figure out if Newegg lets you stack all the discounts.
Most Corsair PSUs are rebranded Seasonic.
I'm going to guess you don't plan on overclocking.That board's not a very good choice @ that price point.AsRock Extreme or Biostar are full-featured.
 
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Since the fan is PWM controlled, it can be set to different cooling modes in the motherboard BIOS. At only 70C, I would guess your motherboard is not pushing the fan on in at 100% - at least that's my experience. I have a Scythe Mugen 2 heatsink with the original fan on, the maximum speed of the fan is 1300 RPM. In Prime95 with my CPU OC'd to 4.2GHz, the temperature only reaches about 70C even though the fan only spins at a very-near-silent 800 RPM controlled by the motherboard using the Standard fan profile (as opposed to Turbo or Silent). On turbo it should spin at max speed.

With your 212 Evo I would expect a similar RPM in % of maximum speed.

Most Corsair PSUs are rebranded Seasonic

No, of the current units in production, only a handful are Seasonics - the rest are from various different OEMs, of which the most common is CWT.

http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page447.htm

I'm going to guess you don't plan on overclocking.That board's not a very good choice @ that price point.AsRock Extreme or Biostar are full-featured.

How is it not a full featured board? It has 8-phase power delivery which is great for OC'ing, excellent sound and LAN chips, SLI&Crossfire support, and a plethora of other features the OP will probably not even use.

Also, Biostar?
 
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Just an update in case anyone is interested. The machine is running great and is having no issues running BF4 on Ultra 4xAA.

Thanks again for everyone's help.
 
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