Solved! CPU Overheat + Corsair H100i v1: ("CPU Fan Error" + "CPU Over Temperature Error”)

[ControlAlternateDelete]

I have a 6-year-old, self-built, AIO water cooled PC (specs below) that for various reasons has only been in regular use for the past 3 years. For those last 3 years, there has been no change in configuration and things have been running smoothly (successful stress test done a year ago). Two days ago, I received a "CPU Fan Error" and “CPU Over Temperature Error” on bootup and on subsequent examination, the CPU was found to be running consistently at 99-100 C at idle (rapid linear increase).

SPECS:

Cooling (liquid): Corsair H100i v1
CPU: Intel i7-4770K
MoBo: Asus Maximus VI Formula
PSU: Corsair HX1000
Case: Corsair Carbide Air 540


From my reading, the possible reasons for this "CPU fan error and overheat" could be:
a) Cable connection issues (to the PSU and/or motherboard)
b) Thermal paste has dried up
c) Poor seating of CPU cooler and/or dust clogged exhaust fans
d) Failure of the AIO water cooler


What I did:

A) Cable Connection Issues: Since the configuration has not changed and the computer has been running smoothly till now, I assume that this cannot be the issue. In any case, all connections were found to be secure (including the three pin "CPU_fan") and I even changed the SATA connection to the PSU with no improvement.

B) Thermal Paste Drying: Old thermal paste was removed and replaced with fresh paste

C) Poor Seating or Clogged Fans: Seating was confirmed to be solid; exhaust fans (horizontal, located at the top of the case) are visibly working and dust free. Mild vibration in pipes is felt.

D) Failure of AIO Water-cooling: When the status of the H100i was checked using Corsair's Link application (screenshot included), it showed coolant temperature at 70-80 C (on average), pump fan speed at around 2500 rpm and exhaust fan speed at around 2700 rpm.



After all this, I still am receiving the same errors.

So, my question is how should I proceed? Everything seems to be working! Despite this, the CPU is not being cooled.

A) Cables seem secure.

B) Thermal paste has been replaced.

C) Despite the CPU fan error thrown up, the Link software shows both the pump fan and exhaust fans are running. In addition, the high temperature of the coolant would seem to indicate that it is taking up the heat from the CPU. Is it sufficient to say the water cooler is working because the fans are working? Could the fans be working and the water cooler still not doing its job? Any way to check that?

D) Additional Question: The CPU is currently running at 100 C at idle/minimum load, as soon as Windows loads. Is that solely because of the lack of heat removal or could the CPU itself be at fault? Shouldn't a CPU at idle run at a much lower temperature even in the absence of cooling?

Finally, where can I find the fan settings in BIOS? I cannot seem to locate them.

I do not want to buy a new CPU cooler only to find out the problem is something else since the refund/return policy where I am is non-existent. Any help is appreciated. If any other information is required, I will try my best to provide it. Thanks for reading.

 

[aigomorla]

can i have a picture of your PC internally?

You might of installed the wrong orientation on the AIO.

Steve from GN discusses it here:

But need more information to be more through.
Because your Corsair Link shows you have pump movement.
So its not a dead pump.

 

[crashtech]

Internal clogging or the impeller coming loose from the pump shaft are things that can't be checked externally. If the PC had been cooling fine before and you've cleaned and repasted, it might just be that the cooler has lived out its life. AIOs like that are disposable, when they stop working, you replace them. A custom water setup is over double the price of an AIO, so perhaps the lack of serviceability is worth it.

 

[ControlAlternateDelete]

aigomorla, thanks for the reply!

can i have a picture of your PC internally?

You might of installed the wrong orientation on the AIO.

Apologies for the potato quality (and partial disassembly) but this should be enough to ascertain orientation:


Radiator is placed horizontally, above the pump, at the top of the case

Steve from GN discusses it here:

Appreciate the link.

But need more information to be more through.
Because your Corsair Link shows you have pump movement.
So its not a dead pump.

Exactly what I thought but then where could the problem be? Coolant block/evaporation? What more information would you need?

 

[aigomorla]

if its not too difficult, can you try to remove the AIO and give a good shake to see how full it is?
a typical AIO should be about 90% filled, so you will know if you had a significant amount of coolant loss over the 6 yrs.

I am guessing 2 points at this.

1. You are missing a significant amount of coolant.
2. Your cpu mount is wrong, and you have a gap somewhere.

The AIO is connected via the SATA connector right? and you didn't just plug it into the motherboard header.
Did you try a remount of the cpu block with new thermal paste?

 

[ControlAlternateDelete]

crashtech, thanks for the reply.

Internal clogging or the impeller coming loose from the pump shaft are things that can't be checked externally.

Just to be clear, can clogging or impeller separation occur without affecting the fan (since the Corsair Link app shows the pump fan is turning)?

If the PC had been cooling fine before and you've cleaned and repasted, it might just be that the cooler has lived out its life. AIOs like that are disposable, when they stop working, you replace them. A custom water setup is over double the price of an AIO, so perhaps the lack of serviceability is worth it.

If a new cooling unit is ultimately required then that's fine: I just wanted to be (fairly) sure before I committed to a new unit.

 

[aigomorla]

I just wanted to be (fairly) sure before I committed to a new unit.

you dont need an AIO and it can be more headaches then its worth.

I really suggest you buy a FUMA and call it a day:

Amazon.com: Scythe Fuma 2 CPU Air Cooler, Intel LGA1151, AMD AM4/Ryzen, 120mm Dual Towers, Black Top Cover: Computers & Accessories

Buy Scythe Fuma 2 CPU Air Cooler, Intel LGA1151, AMD AM4/Ryzen, 120mm Dual Towers, Black Top Cover: CPU Cooling Fans - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

It should perform near your H110i at stock settings.
And at overclock it shouldn't be that bad.

A better air sink will be a noctua d14, or a bequiet rock pro.

Amazon.com: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4, BK022, 250W TDP, CPU Cooler: Computers & Accessories

Buy be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4, BK022, 250W TDP, CPU Cooler: CPU Cooling Fans - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Honestly, it will save you a lot of headache just to replace it with a FUMA, as the problem seems to lie in your heat exchanger somewhere.

 

[crashtech]

crashtech, thanks for the reply.

Just to be clear, can clogging or impeller separation occur without affecting the fan (since the Corsair Link app shows the pump fan is turning)?

If a new cooling unit is ultimately required then that's fine: I just wanted to be (fairly) sure before I committed to a new unit.

"Pump fan" is probably a bit of a misnomer. It's either pump, or fan. Pumps don't typically have fans, but pumps can appear as a fan to the software, since it's a PWM motor similar to a fan motor. The software can detect that the pump is operating via the 3rd wire in the connector, this is a speed sense wire. There is an off chance that the software could be fooled if the pump is plugged into a different header and the pump header on the motherboard has a regular fan plugged into it.

Also yes, the pump can be turning but not be turning the impeller if it has come loose from the shaft. Also, the pump can be turning but not flowing, particularly if the CPU block is clogged with debris or flora.

 

[ControlAlternateDelete]

if its not too difficult, can you try to remove the AIO and give a good shake to see how full it is?
a typical AIO should be about 90% filled, so you will know if you had a significant amount of coolant loss over the 6 yrs.

Never thought of that. Can do that but will take some time. Will post the result in a while.

I am guessing 2 points at this.

1. You are missing a significant amount of coolant.
2. Your cpu mount is wrong, and you have a gap somewhere.

The AIO is connected via the SATA connector right? and you didn't just plug it into the motherboard header.
Did you try a remount of the cpu block with new thermal paste?

CPU Mount Error/Gap: The comp ran without complaint for three years so I assume it can't be that unless it somehow got separated by itself.

Remount: Yes, I remounted the block with a fresh application of Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut and I ensured there was no gap. No change.

SATA Connection: Yes, SATA is connected. I even changed the cable just to be sure.

Coolant Loss: I'm beginning to think it's this or something coolant linked.

you dont need an AIO and it can be more headaches then its worth.

I really suggest you buy a FUMA and call it a day:

Amazon.com: Scythe Fuma 2 CPU Air Cooler, Intel LGA1151, AMD AM4/Ryzen, 120mm Dual Towers, Black Top Cover: Computers & Accessories

Buy Scythe Fuma 2 CPU Air Cooler, Intel LGA1151, AMD AM4/Ryzen, 120mm Dual Towers, Black Top Cover: CPU Cooling Fans - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

It should perform near your H110i at stock settings.
And at overclock it shouldn't be that bad.

A better air sink will be a noctua d14, or a bequiet rock pro.

Amazon.com: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4, BK022, 250W TDP, CPU Cooler: Computers & Accessories

Buy be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4, BK022, 250W TDP, CPU Cooler: CPU Cooling Fans - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Honestly, it will save you a lot of headache just to replace it with a FUMA, as the problem seems to lie in your heat exchanger somewhere.

Thanks for the recommendation. I was leaning towards air cooling as the eventual replacement if it was needed (seems, like you said, a lot more straight forward). The cooler you mentioned would take some time to be delivered (in my country). What do you think of the "DEEPCOOL Assassin III" or the "Noctua NH-D15"?

 

[ControlAlternateDelete]

"Pump fan" is probably a bit of a misnomer. It's either pump, or fan. Pumps don't typically have fans, but pumps can appear as a fan to the software, since it's a PWM motor similar to a fan motor. The software can detect that the pump is operating via the 3rd wire in the connector, this is a speed sense wire. There is an off chance that the software could be fooled if the pump is plugged into a different header and the pump header on the motherboard has a regular fan plugged into it.

Also yes, the pump can be turning but not be turning the impeller if it has come loose from the shaft. Also, the pump can be turning but not flowing, particularly if the CPU block is clogged with debris or flora.

crashtech, thanks for the detailed reply: really helps to understand the concepts.

I will keep this thread open for a while in the event there are any more inputs but the general consensus seems to be to replace the unit.

 

[ControlAlternateDelete]

An additional question that has just occurred to me (I've will add it to the original post as well, if I can):

The CPU is currently running at 100 C at idle/minimum load, as soon as Windows loads. Is that solely because of the lack of heat removal or could the CPU itself be at fault? Shouldn't a CPU at idle run at a much lower temperature even in the absence of cooling?

 

[crashtech]

Your AIO should be considered to be completely broken at this point, and you should not use your PC while it is this way. Even a stock Intel cooler would be much better than what is happening now. It's unlikely to have been the CPU, but if you continue to run it while it's massively overheating, you may wreck the CPU eventually.

 

[ControlAlternateDelete]

Your AIO should be considered to be completely broken at this point, and you should not use your PC while it is this way. Even a stock Intel cooler would be much better than what is happening now. It's unlikely to have been the CPU, but if you continue to run it while it's massively overheating, you may wreck the CPU eventually.

Thanks for the quick reply, crashtech. So noted.

 

[aigomorla]

What do you think of the "DEEPCOOL Assassin III" or the "Noctua NH-D15"?

very pricey... but if those options are only available, they should do more then fine.
The D15 is a beast, but its also very very pricey, but its a top dog in air heat sinks.

Are you overclocking?
if you are not overclocking, you could also get away with a deepcool gamaxx.
Do they have Vetroo or ID-Cooling in your country?

Amazon.com: Vetroo V5 CPU Air Cooler w/ 5 Heat Pipes 120mm PWM Processor 150W TDP Fan Intel LGA 1200 115X / AMD Ryzen AM4 Universal Socket w/Addressable RGB Lights Sync(V5, Black): Computers & Accessories

Buy Vetroo V5 CPU Air Cooler w/ 5 Heat Pipes 120mm PWM Processor 150W TDP Fan Intel LGA 1200 115X / AMD Ryzen AM4 Universal Socket w/Addressable RGB Lights Sync(V5, Black): CPU Cooling Fans - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: ID-COOLING SE-224-XT RGB CPU Cooler AM4 CPU Cooler 12V 4PIN RGB Cooler 4 Heatpipes CPU Air Cooler 120mm PWM Fan, Intel/AMD: Industrial & Scientific

Buy ID-COOLING SE-224-XT RGB CPU Cooler AM4 CPU Cooler 12V 4PIN RGB Cooler 4 Heatpipes CPU Air Cooler 120mm PWM Fan, Intel/AMD: CPU Cooling Fans - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

If you are overclocking, then go with the assassin 3 or D15.

 

[ControlAlternateDelete]

Are you overclocking?
if you are not overclocking, you could also get away with a deepcool gamaxx.
Do they have Vetroo or ID-Cooling in your country?

Not overclocking, no. Which makes this overheating thing all the more frustrating.

Both of the brands you mention are available but because they are considered "niche" here, product delivery takes weeks. Deepcool and Noctua are next day delivery.

very pricey... but if those options are only available, they should do more then fine.
The D15 is a beast, but its also very very pricey, but its a top dog in air heat sinks.

Okay, thanks: will consider all options you mentioned especially since I have to be careful about cooler size with my current PCI-E card configuration.

P.S. Happy Independence Day to all the Americans here

 

[ControlAlternateDelete]

Parallel thread for replacement air-cooler recommendations:

CPU Cooler Recommendation for Limited Vertical Space Setup

Your opinions would be welcome!

 

[StefanR5R]

When the status of the H100i was checked using Corsair's Link application (screenshot included), it showed coolant temperature at 70-80 C (on average),

One typical cause for such a very high coolant temperature is a clogged cooler, IOW dirt present in the loop and stuck in the cooler's channels.

If the outlet of the cooler is very hot, while at the same time the outlet of the radiator is rather cool, then it is very certain that the cooler is clogged.

Examples for dirt in a watercooling system: corrosion products, or sealant. (Correctly built watercooling systems don't corrode, nor are any sealants used in them. But more than enough AIO watercooling devices are incorrectly built.)

 

[ControlAlternateDelete]

One typical cause for such a very high coolant temperature is a clogged cooler, IOW dirt present in the loop and stuck in the cooler's channels.

If the outlet of the cooler is very hot, while at the same time the outlet of the radiator is rather cool, then it is very certain that the cooler is clogged.

Examples for dirt in a watercooling system: corrosion products, or sealant. (Correctly built watercooling systems don't corrode, nor are any sealants used in them. But more than enough AIO watercooling devices are incorrectly built.)

StefanR5R, thanks for your comment. Your input and the others here, have convinced me the coolant is likely the issue. Regardless, the outcome is the same: the AIO Water Cooler needed replacement.

 

[ControlAlternateDelete]

Went through all your recommendations and based on them, product availability and what PCPartsPicker.com was able to show me about their positioning, finally settled on the Hyper 212 RGB Black Edition.


Installed and working great!




Marking this thread solved, repping and closing (if possible and allowed).

Thank you all for reading and esp. aigomorla and crashtech for your help. You made a complex issue, straightforward.

Apparently the parallel recommendation thread is locked so thanks to
blckgrffn, kschendel and StefanR5R as well!