Cost of waterproofing a basement

mattocs

Platinum Member
Jan 25, 2005
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The wife and I are looking at buying a house. One of them has a problem when there is a lot of rain. A corner of the basement gets damp. I am not talking about a flood, but just some standing water that goes away rather quickly.

My question is: About how much would a contractor charge to water proof a 20 x 20 basement?

Thanks for any and all help!
 
Jan 18, 2001
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there are a lot of things you can do to keep water away from the foundation walls.

1) clean gutters
2) add downspout extensions
3) grade ground to slope away from house
4) install underground water barriers that slop away from house
5) landscape to direct surface water from flowing to house

next time you go by the house go up and look at the gutters and downspouts...
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
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on a somewhat related note ... anyone know how much it would cost to sound proof a condo that is say, 1000 square feet?

i'm just curious because I saw one condo for sale that had sound proofing done on it, and one thing holding me back from wanting a condo is that I love to play my movies and games loud w/my surround sound. i'm curious how much it would cost to do this to a condo that isn't already sound proof.
 

sohcrates

Diamond Member
Sep 19, 2000
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the previous owner of our house paid about $12K to have the basement waterproofed and french drains and a sump pump added
 

mattocs

Platinum Member
Jan 25, 2005
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Originally posted by: sohcrates
the previous owner of our house paid about $12K to have the basement waterproofed and french drains and a sump pump added


Egad. I'd rather just have to wear swim trunks in the basement than pay that!
 

turunturun

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Sep 6, 2000
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The only appropriate way to waterproof a below grade foundation wall is from the outside. That means excavating the foundations so that the walls are exposed. This will enable the application of spray-applied or sheet applied waterproofing over which they should be putting a protection/drainage board. Install foundation drain (pvc pipe perforated at top) around perimeter of problematic foundations and tie into storm system (hopefully it is below the footing elevation). Refill the excavation with drainage gravel to eliminate hydrostatic pressure, leaving a couple feet of soil for plantings at the surface. You will have dryness if all is done correctly.
This is all assuming the watertable is below the footing - if not you got larger problems dude. Buy swim trunks.
Couldn't estimate what a contractor would charge for this - too many variables biggest being region and labor rates.
Don't waste your money on water proofing from the inside, thats like paying someone to paint your tires when you needed them to fix your brakes..
 

turunturun

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Sep 6, 2000
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About soundproofing a condo:
The only thing that stops sound (especially bass) is mass. Then more mass. What type of structural system does the condo building employ? Assuming a concrete building frame like newer buildings you can go whole hog and get a great isolation. If it is a wood frame building you are going to have a harder time of it, because you can't employ heavier materials without overloading the building's structure (you wouldn't want to do that to your neighbors would you).Typical construction for recording studio sound isolation is:
All walls are 12" block with cavities filled with sand. 4-8 inches of air space. 6" wall utilizing staggered studs with 2-3 layers of sheetrock on each side, isolated from stud with resilient anchoring.
But you probably don't need all that, nor would you want to pay for it.
You essentially would be best served by creating a "room within a room" where your A/V equipment will be located. You will then construct 4 new airtight walls, float the floor on resilient rubber "hockey pucks" and install an isolated ceiling (even if you are not concerned with floor/ceiling transmission, they are common flanking paths for wall to wall leak unless you have a concrete frame building and the new sound walls go from concrete floor to the underside of concrete slab floor above). Pay particular attention to the areas where the air conditioning enters the room, power outlets, and doors (those are common sound-leak points).
Any solid mechanical connections will result in bridging, so you always employ airspace, and all fasteners should be anchored into some form of system that employs a resilient rubber isolation element.
A crack of 1/16" by 2 foot long will render the best STC rated construction less effective by 10 fold because sound is worse than water, if there is a leak the other side gets soaked. So you usually employ an acoustical sealant (not regular caulk) to seal all seams, joints, butts, etc.
It can get pricey.
 

mattocs

Platinum Member
Jan 25, 2005
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I work inside a limestone mine, and even though there is hundreds of feet of rock, we still get drips. We use some sort of paint that helps seal out some water...works a little bit...I might just try that to cut down on it.

Thanks everyone!
 

sdifox

No Lifer
Sep 30, 2005
100,517
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I have done this myself, we were getting leakage into the basement although not to actual accumulation level. We (my dad, my bro and me) dug a hole at the side of the foundation wall, about 6-7 feet deep. Wash the wall clean, applied tar and then stuck waterproofing membrane on it. Never had a problem afterwards. I supposed if it is serious you would have to install sump well and sump pump.
 

jadinolf

Lifer
Oct 12, 1999
20,952
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Originally posted by: mattocs
The wife and I are looking at buying a house. One of them has a problem when there is a lot of rain. A corner of the basement gets damp. I am not talking about a flood, but just some standing water that goes away rather quickly.

My question is: About how much would a contractor charge to water proof a 20 x 20 basement?

Thanks for any and all help!

IMHO: don't even think about it.
 

mattocs

Platinum Member
Jan 25, 2005
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Originally posted by: jadinolf


IMHO: don't even think about it.

I've never been to a house that didn't have a damp basement. That is all this really is...some water on the floor...not even enough to splash around in. I just was curious if there was a cheap way to make a damp basement into like a second living room.

Edit: errr, don't think about buying the house or trying to waterproof a basement?
 

bctbct

Diamond Member
Dec 22, 2005
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Originally posted by: HomeBrewerDude
there are a lot of things you can do to keep water away from the foundation walls.

1) clean gutters
2) add downspout extensions
3) grade ground to slope away from house
4) install underground water barriers that slop away from house
5) landscape to direct surface water from flowing to house

next time you go by the house go up and look at the gutters and downspouts...


what he said

 

Fritzo

Lifer
Jan 3, 2001
41,920
2,161
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It might be just a matter of making sure you have drainage outside. Maybe hook a hose up to guide the rain away. That'll do it 9/10 times.
 

teckmaster

Golden Member
Feb 1, 2000
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it would most likely be $10,000 to $15,000. Really going to depend on how much digging the do outside of the house or if you have the inside done
 

Jeff7

Lifer
Jan 4, 2001
41,596
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:)
This sounds sort of familiar. Except for the "I am not talking about a flood" part. The basement here fills with about 1.5" of water when it rains a lot. It only reaches that depth because at that point it just starts flowing out the back door. Water comes in through:
2 cracks in the front of the house's foundation
1 crack in the back of the house
The sump
The corner clockwise from the pump
Cracks in the floor
The chimney

The damn place is like a piece of cheese cloth. The last time it rained hard here, at the end of June, we got 6.5" of rain in 48hrs. The sump pump was running continuously, but it just wasn't enough. It's rated 1/3 horsepower with a 1.5" diameter outlet. It still wasn't enough. And it wouldn't have mattered much, since water came in just about everywhere else. The ground slopes toward the house on 3 out of 4 sides too.
The water coming in the front of the house....well, if you're standing in the basement looking at the one crack in the wall, the water can come in at a level about 6' up from the floor = about ground level outside.

What we did:
A contractor came and gave an estimate, and we liked it, so we hired him. He dug a trench to about a foot or so below the bottom of the foundation (10' deep total), from the side of the house around to the front, put a 4" perforated pipe on the bottom, filled a few feet above that with grade 2b crushed stone, put some filter fabric over top, and then filled the rest with dirt.
In addition to that, he did a "core drilling" round the back of the house, in the corner where the water was coming in. As he explained it, the foundation walls go down a few extra feet as a frost barrier. However, this can trap water. Underneath the basement floor is a bed of crushed stone, which is where the water is trapped, so it becomes an underground lake, and its easiest way out is up through the floor. He drilled a hole in the frost barrier at the bottom of the crushed stone layer, and put a pipe into there and cemented it in place. That pipe joined with the one from the trench, and the whole system now drains into a drainage ditch between our lot and the neighbor's property. His work cost about $4,000, which was several hundred less than the estimate. In addition to that, I rented a backhoe for two days and did some other lighter digging at a crack in the foundation in the back of the house, as well as some land grading. Total cost of the project is close to $5,000

I also have no idea yet if it works. It's hardly rained at all since the work was done. Everything in the basement is staying up on 2x4 blocks until we're sure it won't flood again.


Excavating around the entire perimeter of the foundation for water sealing was not feasible, as it would have meant destroying/removing: part of the paved driveway, a flowerbed, a deck, and two porches. So the trench was only dug immediately next to the house on just one side. Around the front, it is several feet away from the house, but that should provide an adequate diversion for the water streaming down the nearby hill.


In any case, enjoy your comparatively dry basement. :p It could be worse. In the same storm that flooded our basement with 1.5" of water, some people got more than 2 feet in their basements.



Your other option: rent a backhoe for a week and dig out the foundation yourself. This of course depends on how well you can get acclimated to hydraulic machinery. For me, it took about 2hrs to get used to the controls, and by the end of the first day I could reliably guide the bucket to dig to within an inch of the foundation. Just be sure to do something to shore up the walls, or else slope them, to avoid cave-ins. OSHA says that a trench more than 4' deep sound be reinforced or sloped. If that much rocky dirt caves in on you, you'll probably suffocate before anyone could dig you out.