Corsair H50 and Residue...

[railven]

Just a quick question:

I'm RMAing my motherboard so had to remove my Corsair H50. Upon doing so I cleaned off the factory thermal paste.

I used Acetone (as I've always used) but after a few minutes of wiping I can't seem to remove all the residue. Sliding my finger across the copper base leaves residue marks.

I was wondering if this would cause an issue if I were to use Arctic Silver 5 when I get my board back.

Or should I buy a specific cleaner that could remove all residue?

Thanks in advance.

 

[frostedflakes]

Getting a soft rag, putting some isopropyl alcohol on it, and then just rubbing the base really good seems to work pretty well to get rid of that. Once the rag starts to get dirty obviously turn it over or whatever so you're not rubbing paste back on the base. Just keep doing this until you get rid of most of the residue.

Or you could just leave it, I think it's just the Arctic Silver getting stuck in all the cracks and imperfections of the contact surface. That's exactly what it's supposed to do and why you use thermal paste. Next time you reapply it to a CPU, the thermal paste will just do the same thing. The only time I bother cleaning the base on a heatsink really good is to try to make it presentable before selling it.

 

[railven]

Getting a soft rag, putting some isopropyl alcohol on it, and then just rubbing the base really good seems to work pretty well to get rid of that. Once the rag starts to get dirty obviously turn it over or whatever so you're not rubbing paste back on the base. Just keep doing this until you get rid of most of the residue.

Or you could just leave it, I think it's just the Arctic Silver getting stuck in all the cracks and imperfections of the contact surface. That's exactly what it's supposed to do and why you use thermal paste. Next time you reapply it to a CPU, the thermal paste will just do the same thing. The only time I bother cleaning the base on a heatsink really good is to try to make it presentable before selling it.

That's my issue, I'm not sure what factory Thermal Paste Corsair uses for their H50. If it were AC5, I wouldn't hesitate to slab some more when I get my board back.

I think its a Corsair brand of Thermal Paste (pre-applied, pre-cured - probably why its a pain to clean fully with normal means - ie my Acetone.)

I'll get some Iso Alc from work tomorrow and give it a shot.

Otherwise, anyone think applying AC5 over it without fully removing their paste would cause issues?

Note: I have zero intentions of hardcore OCing, mild 3.1-3.2ghz out of my Core I7 920.

 

[EarthwormJim]

That's my issue, I'm not sure what factory Thermal Paste Corsair uses for their H50. If it were AC5, I wouldn't hesitate to slab some more when I get my board back.

I think its a Corsair brand of Thermal Paste (pre-applied, pre-cured - probably why its a pain to clean fully with normal means - ie my Acetone.)

I'll get some Iso Alc from work tomorrow and give it a shot.

Otherwise, anyone think applying AC5 over it without fully removing their paste would cause issues?

Note: I have zero intentions of hardcore OCing, mild 3.1-3.2ghz out of my Core I7 920.

Clear it off. It's just asking for problems. It might interfere with proper bonding.

Try some ketchup if you're really having a hard time.

 

[faxon]

if you want to get the same performance out of the H50, you will need to use shin etsu thermal grease or better, just FYI. shin etsu is the stuff they pre-apply for you. im not sure which one it is (i know of at least 3 shin etsu sells) but i think it was one of their best ones. frys was supposed to start carrying it this month actually if you live near one, but no one has it yet, and its almost 3 weeks late now. were stuck with biostar nano diamond as our best paste until then, cause for some reason they decided to stop stocking AS5

 

[zagood]

Try some ketchup if you're really having a hard time.

WTF? Learn something new every day.
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080223112546AAiWPWF

 

[railven]

if you want to get the same performance out of the H50, you will need to use shin etsu thermal grease or better, just FYI. shin etsu is the stuff they pre-apply for you. im not sure which one it is (i know of at least 3 shin etsu sells) but i think it was one of their best ones. frys was supposed to start carrying it this month actually if you live near one, but no one has it yet, and its almost 3 weeks late now. were stuck with biostar nano diamond as our best paste until then, cause for some reason they decided to stop stocking AS5

So you're saying using AC5 wouldn't even be worth it?

Shin Etsu, not sure I've heard of it. I got time before my board returns from RMA so I can order some off newegg. I'll try to match the same brand too (send Corsair an E-Mail.)

And thanks for the tips on the bonding, it is what I sort of figured but was just double checking. Will try ketchup haha.

 

[Zap]

Shin Etsu, not sure I've heard of it.

It is used in a lot of higher end pre-applied applications such as high end graphics cards. Shin Etsu does not market towards the enthusiast, but more towards other businesses. Usually only the more hardcore online retailers (those that specialize in water cooling, for instance) will stock Shin Etsu MicroSI.

This stuff is especially good if you need a TIM that works well in thicker applications (for instance both surfaces not perfectly flat).

As mentioned, Shin Etsu MicroSI comes in various formulations. The best of these outperforms Arctic Silver 5 while the worst trails by a hair.

just FYI. shin etsu is the stuff they pre-apply for you. im not sure which one it is (i know of at least 3 shin etsu sells) but i think it was one of their best ones.

There isn't that huge of a difference. It's like going from cheap white "The Shack" paste to Arctic Silver 5. Yeah, can probably benchmark a couple degrees difference, but in the real world will those 3° make or break your overclock? If so, then woe be the enthusiast who lives in an area where ambient temperatures change seasonally.

 

[railven]

Thanks for all the info guys. I do appreciate it. While looking up Shin Etsu at Newegg I found this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835150080

Then I checked my local Microcenter and found this:

http://www.microcenter.com/single_pr...uct_id=0314829

Which of those two would be best? I'm curious since the sites list different vendors.

 

[Zap]

I don't think it would really matter which TIM you use as long as you use any TIM and apply it properly (not too much and not too little).

 

[EarthwormJim]

Thanks for all the info guys. I do appreciate it. While looking up Shin Etsu at Newegg I found this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835150080

Then I checked my local Microcenter and found this:

http://www.microcenter.com/single_pr...uct_id=0314829

Which of those two would be best? I'm curious since the sites list different vendors.

There's honestly a negligible difference between quality TIMs. Mounting technique is more important honestly.

 

[railven]

At this point I'd be more concerned with compatibility then application since even the ketchup didn't get off the residue.

I can still run my finger across the heatsink and get faint traces of TIM.

I'd try to match the TIM i use as best as I could to the one Corsair used, surfing the net I just find Shin-Etsu but no exact name/brand/model. I might just get the local Microcenter brand.

 

[Zap]

Shin Etsu is the manufacturer. Sometimes other companies rebrand it. The number (X23-7762, G751, etc) is the model or formulation. See this roundup

 

[WorldExclusive]

I use Shin Etsu X23-7762 all the time. Excellent stuff but it's only sold by the gram. I buy mine from Petra's Tech Shop here:

http://www.petrastechshop.com/thinma.html

They are the cheapest on shipping. Less than $10 total.
Don't buy the G751 etc., those under perform compared to the X23-7762. I also use alcohol to remove it. I'm buying a H50 and I was even more excited when I heard Corsair uses Shin Etsu.

 

[Jovec]

Chiming in... I've always just bought those alcohol prep pads/swabs that are used to clean your skin prior to injection. Come in a box of 100 for less than $5. Self-contained, individually wrapped, pre-soaked, disposable, etc. 70% Iso

 

[DrMrLordX]

Pre-applied Shin Etsu paste on the H50 is apparently x23-7783D, which is the "good stuff". Generally speaking, I think an unlapped/rough surface might do better with G751, which is why it has won a few benchmarks against 7783D, but obviously Corsair knows what they are doing when using 7783D on their product (presumably because the contact surface is smooth enough for them to not need G751, which has been used on some HSFs like the old Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro/64 Pro). I used to be a major 7783D fanboy until I switched to a more extreme product. As far as "normal" TIM goes, 7783D is top-notch stuff.

And yeah, 91% IPA or better should get the default application of TIM off. I use that + coffee filters + lots of elbow grease.

 

[railven]

The bottom of the H50 is far from what I'd consider smooth.

It is very visibly machined, at least mine is. I've lapped a few heatsinks in the past and the Zalman's I've bought before came with the mirror finish. The H50 is far from an ideal surface - again at least mine.

I'll use the Shin Etsu from Microcenter. Since I can get it locally.

Thanks again for all the info guys.

 

[ModestGamer]

try polishing the mating surface some time. Watch you CPU temps jump. There is a ideal RA for good thermal conductance. Depends on the meterials. however I will go out on a limb here and say that most cooler,cpus,gpus come properly finished.

As to the heat sink grease. Find out what the base stock is "typically linseed type oils" and use the appropriate cleaner. If it is very very stubburn stop by a body shop and grab a small container of Medium Reducer used in urethane paints.

WARNING this solvent is extremly cuastic and should be used with LOTS of ventilation. In fact using indoors is a big no no.

That siad apply sparringly with a q-tip.

Try laqure thinner first.

 

[Yellowbeard]

I have had good luck using Lectra Clean or Berryman's Chemtool for completely removing TIM, residue and all.

 

[Skott]

From what I have heard Corsair's paste is Shin Etsu although it doesn't say so anywhere on the H50 product or in their info. When I was setting up my H50 build (see sig below) I had to take my H50 off due to some mounting problems I ran into at the time during install. I felt the paste need to be reapplied to play it safe. Of course I didn't have more so I used some AS5 that I had on hand. It works fine and still to this day it works fine.

The paste that comes with the H50 has proven to work and work well so use it or if you are one of those worry warts that feel insecure in the product use AS5, Diamond Ice, or your preferred paste and be done with it. Any of the above mentioned will do fine.

 

[alkemyst]

Acetone is a bit strong to start out with. Iso. Alchol 90% or better is safer to use and cheaper

 

[railven]

I picked up some alcohol from work (pays to work at a hospital) and I believe I got all the residue off.

Sliding a white coffee filter across doesn't leave any marks (only around the edges, but the CPU Heatspreader wouldn't make contact there.)

Hopefully I get my board back and rebuild my rig - the temp rig is killing me. haha.

 

[aigomorla]

WTF? Learn something new every day.
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080223112546AAiWPWF

lulz...

Ive left blocks soaked overnight in 7up, and the next morning they come out sparkling clean too..

Seriously, its the acid in these that does all the work.

The 7up i feel is the least dangerous, but at the same time requires the most amount of time.

Wont work on the H5O unless u unassemble the base.