• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Core i5 750 reaching high temps

amccabe

Junior Member
I am building a Core i5 750 computer with stock cooling and running at stock speed. The case is an Antec Nine Hundred and the motherboard is a ASUS P7P55D.

After installing Windows 7 64bit, I ran Prime 95 with SpeedFan and CoreTemp. Within 1 minute of starting Prime 95, Core Temp displays the 4 cores between 90 and 99C. Speedfan shows about 10C cooler, but ASUS Probe shows the same temps as CoreTemp. And of course, when they reach the upper 90's the processor lowers the multiplier and clock speed.

I tried taking off the cooler and processor, cleaning both, and using arctic silver today, but temps were the same. They may lower a few degrees when the arctic silver settles, but I need much lower temps.

Anybody seen this? Is this just a little hotter than average or do I need to RMA the processor? Is there anything that I might be missing?

I have built 20+ computers, but this is my first core i5/i7, so any comments are appreciated 🙂
 
Welcome to Anandtech!

I had this problem at first. I reinstalled the stock cooler twice with Arctic Silver 5 but was still getting high 95s. Then I realized my stock cooler wasn't 100% in. I pressed really hard the 3rd time and finally heard the snapping noise for the 4th pin that didnt' want to go in 100% (although underneath the board appeared to be 100% in!!!).

Otherwise, you may want to get a cheap cooler.

Check out this thread for the coolers currently available.
 
Do you notice any fan speed increase under load?

Examine the heat spreader on the CPU and of the heatsink. Check them with a known straight edge and see if they are flat.

What is the core voltage that the P7P55D is supplying to the CPU according to monitoring utility?

EDIT: Russian sensation beat me to it. I was going to add his very comment to my post here.
 
I am at work now, so I can't check the core voltage yet, but I remember that in the BIOS, I changed the CPU fan speed to the highest. I then noticed that ASUSProbe was fluctuating according to CPU temp, although I wasn't watching the fan.

I will check the fins on the heatsink too - Thanks for the suggestion!
 
I will make certain about the snaps on the heatsink too! Those are really tricky, especially when the motherboard is already set in the case...

Thanks for the suggestion! I will post again after I mess with the snaps 🙂
 
When I was home for a little bit, I tried to mess with the 4 snaps on the heatsink and there is definitely something strange going on with 1 or 2 of them.

The first 2 snap into place very cleanly and give good feedback that they are in there correctly. The second 2 just kind of make a lot of little pop and crack noises, but appear to be all the way down.

After booting up and seeing the temps go up to 99C, I shut down and took the heatsink off. I was shocked to see that small amount of arctic silver that I had put on the processor was still in the same pattern, instead of being spread evenly the way it should be. And there were only a couple of spots of compound were on the heatsink.

I put a lot more compound on the processor and re-seated it with the heatsink rotated 90 degrees (there appears to be no difference on this heatsink) and it was better off, but still hit 99 under load.

I inspected the heatsink and processor carefully, but I can not figure out why it isn't making good contact. I have never had this problem before.

Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
 
It does sound like a push pin problem and two of them are not seated properly. Maybe just cut to the chase and get a bolt through kit.
 
I freaken hate those push pins. I mean really why do they exist? What's so hard about having by default 4 bolts that just work over having to deal with crap that never really works right?
 
Originally posted by: AyashiKaibutsu
I freaken hate those push pins. I mean really why do they exist? What's so hard about having by default 4 bolts that just work over having to deal with crap that never really works right?

Because then the HS makers reduce the trouble of install by allowing most anyone to be able to do it - the remove the board, bolt in types are much better, but more trouble for many to install.
 
Originally posted by: Damn Dirty Ape
Originally posted by: AyashiKaibutsu
I freaken hate those push pins. I mean really why do they exist? What's so hard about having by default 4 bolts that just work over having to deal with crap that never really works right?

Because then the HS makers reduce the trouble of install by allowing most anyone to be able to do it - the remove the board, bolt in types are much better, but more trouble for many to install.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I doubt that is the reason for push pins. At the end of the day, its probably a dime or two cheaper to make a mobo with push pins rather than bolts. Plastic is always cheaper than metal.

Plus people tend to understand bolts and nuts, its push pins that are the mystery. They are probably barely adequate for a stock heat sink and fan, but get some big cooler cantilevered out
six or eight inches above the mother board, and it takes only a small shock to the break the plastic
of the push pin or the motherboard.

But but but, gotta save that dime or two.
 
Looks like I finally got the stock heat sink on there correctly (and the stupid snaps) because max temps are now mid to upper 70's 🙂 It only took 6 tries... Thanks to everyone for their help!

I did order the Cooler Master 212, but it is good to at least know that there is noting wrong with my hardware 🙂
 
The first time I had to use Intel Pushpins was when I installed my Q6600 with the stock fan when I sold my old parts. It took me literally 15 min to get it to snap. Worst design ever.

Glad you got it to work. The CC 212 Plus will be a good replacement.
 
Back
Top