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Core i5 750 3.85ghz + H100i issue

netxzero64

netxzero64

Senior member
Hi,

I hope you guys/experts can give some insight on this matter. Yesterday I bought a used H100i from a good friend and installed it. at first run, everything was hotter than my previous cooler (Seidon 120M) by 5-10c. I reseat the cooler and my temps only improved by 2-3c during load and take note that I am on a push configuration only with fans running at top speeds.

I don't mind it being loud or noisy because I want my rig to be running cool. another issue is that the bracket is not that tight plus the manual does not state on what is the function of the clips with "foam" indicated on it like some kind of adhesive stuff to it.

The biggest change that I only noticed is when I am running Prime95 4ghz @ 1.44v because on my seidon (push pull config), I was not able to run it long enough as temps would rise pass 85c so I stop the test when it does. On the other hand, under the H100i, temps would not go higher than 79c. my ambient temps are like 31-33c

1. Is there an issue with the bracket?
2. To H100i users out there, have you experienced the same?

Any insights/inputs would be greatly appreciated!
 
The mounting bracket for all the H series coolers are pretty piss poor honestly. After my experiences with them, I'd highly recommend fashioning your own mounting solution. It's not exceptionally hard to do, and will result in a firm consistent mount. Another thing I'd point out is that the IHS on most Intel CPUs is not even close to flat, so lapping it will help more than a little.

To fashion your own mount you need a good backplate. Many tower coolers come with decent backplates. I personally prefer the backplates and thumb nuts that Xigmatek uses, so I typically pick up a Xigamatek Loki to cannabalize the backplate off of and I use the remaining Xigmatek mounting hardware but get longer M3 screws. You'll need a combination of nylon and steel SAE#4 and SAE#6 washers to space everything out. As an example, to mount my H110 I did M3 Screw -> SAE #4 washer -> backplate -> SAE #4 nylon -> mobo -> Xigmatek Paper -> SAE #4 nylon -> Xigmatek cylindrical thumb-nuts to measured torque/screw length -> 4x SAE #4 washer -> SAE #6 washer -> H110 waterblock/head -> SAE #6 washer -> Xigmatek thumb nuts to full stop

This ensures a very tight mount. It's unfortunate but the mounting hardware that comes with a lot of coolers these days is terrible, and AIO water coolers are no exception. Too much plastic, not enough sense.
 
To find out if poor mounting pressure is causing increased temps, put some pressure on the block while stress testing and see if temps drop.
 
@tristor

I see.. damn man, I was so irritated because the bracket was moving when I am touching it while I am installing the cooler. Sadly, I dont have skills to DIY a bracket or obtain a xigmatek cooler as what you have mentioned because 1. I don't have enough budget to do so anymore. broke as hell. 2. xigmatek coolers are no longer available here in our country for a long time now.

I reseated the cold plate and instead of just hand-tightening it, I also screwed it which I was surprised that I was able to screw it further. but then again, the improvement in temps as I have mentioned earlier already. I am not using the usb and the Y-splitters as i am getting an error on the boot up post. "CPU Fan error" press F1 to resume. bla bla..

@Yuriman

I could try that but the bottom line is I have to reseat it again just in case. I am using one of the best tims (gelid extreme) but frustrated due to the bracket issue.
 
Its already a weak CPU, Expect slowness until you upgrade to SSD... That will be the biggest difference. gl
 
Are you sure you're using the right standoffs? The H100i comes with two sets, one for s2011 and another for everything else. If I'm remembering correctly they're slightly different heights so you may be using the taller ones that prevent a solid seating.
 
@klown12

I am using the one that is taller than the other as what the manual states because the shorter one as indicated is for LGA 2011 and I am well aware of that. Unless you are telling me to use the shorter ones for 1156 sockets?
 
I don't have access to my manual so I'm not completely sure which one is for which, I'm just trying figure out why you're having so much trouble with yours when the 3 that I've installed for myself and others have been trouble free.
 
@klown

well, the longer ones are for the 1155/56 sockets. the shorter ones which probably the ones that you are using is for the 2011.
 
I found the standoffs to be too tall on the H100/H80 when installing it, even without any modifications to the CPU/socket otherwise. This is part of the reason I insist on doing a custom mounting bracket every time. The first time I tried one of the H series, I ended up giving it to my room-mate and going back to my tower cooler because I didn't have time to mess with it and needed my computer working. My temps were 20C higher at load despite getting the firmest mount I could, upon examination the standoffs were so tall as to leave almost a full half millimeter gap between the bottom of the cold plate and the top of the IHS.

I'd really highly suggest making a custom mount and retesting. The mounts that come with the H series are absolutely terrible. For reference, the default standoffs are roughly 13.5mm tall, and the standoffs I've made (xigmatek cylindrical thumb nut + 4x SAE #4 + 1x SAE #6 washers) are roughly 12.9mm tall, so that shaving of just about half a millimeter off the standoff makes a huge difference without putting too much mounting pressure on top, and it also accounts for the difference in my IHS post-lapping/delid.

You may find IDC's thread helpful (I did) when fashioning a custom mount by extrapolating from his work here: http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2285595

I picked up a digital caliper identical to the one he's using at Harbor Freight for like $20, well worth the investment. You're looking at between $20-$25 for a Xigmatek Loki here in the US. Since you're not in the US, I'd suggest just looking through pictures of tower coolers on Newegg until you find another one that's available in your country cheaply that has a half-ass decent mounting bracket. You can see the bracket hardware in the pictures pretty clearly for the most part in the unboxed shots.

Basically what you're looking for is something that has a nice solid METAL backplate with foam/cushioning material that will keep it from shorting anything out and help relieve the pressure on any components solder joints sticking out it may contact. After that, you need to verify that it has a non-retarded retention mechanism on top of the backplate. For example, I do not like the backplates that come with the Cooler Master coolers (like the 212) because it relies on relatively low quality bolts/screws and a pushspring system from the top. Using something like this is still possible to modify but requires more effort and is not going to be as sturdy as a better mounting bracket solution.

I'm not sure if $60 is out of your range to do it, but that's about the total investment you'll need to make to turn your H100 into something incredible, and at least $20 of that (the caliper) is useful for lots of other things down the road.
 
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If your standoffs are too tall, all it takes is a piece of sandpaper and a little time to fix that.
 
@tristor

Thank you so much for your insight bro. I really appreciate it. The items that you have stated costs as much as $100 equivalent here in our country and I don't have that kind of money as of the moment. I searched through the net last night and I found a simple solution though its not as good as what you have told me but it is better than having no solution at all. That is by placing rubber/plastic washers on the backplate.

Washer that measures 4mm x 1.9mm (DxW).

@sm625

I considered that option too but I wanted a better hold for the backplate.
 
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