CoolerMaster MF120R Fans Spinning But Not Lighting

[OsakaMoose]

Hi everyone,

I built my first rig about a month ago, and so far everything has worked like a charm except for the fans.

Initially, I was using the three case fans as exhaust while I used a CoolerMaster ML240R ARGB AIO Liquid Cooler for the intake. All the fans lit up fine, except one of the case fans wouldn't spin (actually, it spun for a few seconds the first time I booted up my computer, but that was it.) I updated the BIOS and plugged it into different headers, but it still refused to spin.

Having one non-spinning fan became a bit of an eyesore. I assumed the fan was just simply broken, so l decided to purchase a pack of three MF120R ARGB fans. The installation went smoothly and the new fans are all spinning no problem... except they're not lighting up at all. They're plugged into one power header on the motherboard using the 3-to-1 cable the fans came in, and they're all plugged into the ARGB controller that came with the AIO cooler.

I've tried fixing this several times. First I tried configuring my fans through CoolerMaster's MasterPlus software. Next, I tried using my motherboard's RGB Fusion configuration software. When I assumed the problem was a power output issue, I reconnected one of the fans to its own header. I also tried disconnecting the AIO fans from the ARGB controller to see if there was an output issue within the controller. I've also plugged the ARGB controller into the D_LED1/D_LED2 and LED_C1/LED_C2 headers. Nothing worked so far.

Any thoughts on what's next? I really don't think all three, brand-new fans were shipped broken. At least, I hope not.

For reference, I'm using a Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Ultra Motherboard, and the non-functioning fans are plugged into SYS_FAN6_PUMP header. The ARGB controller is currently plugged into the LED_C1/LED_C2 header.

 

[Paperdoc]

I think you have your connections from mobo to ARGB Controller wrong.

That controller from Cooler Master is their most advanced unit. It can do all control of its ARGB lights under directions from the Cooler Master software utility you can download and install. For that to work you MUST connect the communication cable from the Controller's USB Software port (bottom edge, middle port) to a mobo USB2 header. That is how the software communicates instructions to the Controller. Of course, the Controller also needs a connection to a SATA power output from the PSU.

The several ARGB lighting units you have (2 intake (Rad) fans, 1 pump, and 3 case fans) all need to be connected to ARGB ports on the right side of the Controller. It has 4 such ports, so you'll need a 3-pin ARGB lighting Splitter to get six items onto those ports. I believe one is supplied with the Controller.

As an alternative you CAN have the Controller controlled not by the Cooler Master software via USB2, but instead by feeding it the ARGB signals from a mobo ARGB header. The manual is not totally clear on how to do this, but there are two items involved at least. One is to select which of the two Controller imput ports is used. See its manual, p10 - 11. The second button from the top seems to be the way to switch back and forth between the two possible input ports. The other is to connect the signal input from the mobo. Once that is done, it is not clear to me whether you can simply NOT run the Cooler Master software, or whether you need to disconnect the USB connection to the mobo to stop it from getting signals that way. (By the way, similarly to use the Cooler Master software and NOT the mobo ARGB header for control, you MAY need to NOT connect a signal to the Controller's ARGB Input Port.)

But here's where your post indicates an error. You say you have the Controller plugged into "the LED_C1/LED_C2 header ". First of all, those are TWO headers, and you should only be using one. MORE importantly, those two both are PLAIN RGB (4-pin) headers, and that's the wrong type! You should be connecting ONE cable from a mobo 3-pin D_LEDn header (it has two of these) to the Controller's 3-pin ARGB input port on the bottom. Near each of those D_LEDn headers also there is a pin-and-jumper set called DLED_V_SWn to be used to set the header to output signals in the 12V or 5 V format. USE the 5-VDC setting becasue that's what your system needs. (The 12 V setting is for another ARGB system not commonly used.)

 

[OsakaMoose]

Thank you for your response. I'm hoping to get to working on my computer sometime later in the week, so sorry if I can't provide feedback on your advice just yet.

I'm glad to see that, as far as I can tell, I've done everything you mentioned up until your last paragraph.

But here's where your post indicates an error. You say you have the Controller plugged into "the LED_C1/LED_C2 header ". First of all, those are TWO headers, and you should only be using one.

My bad, I should have been more precise. I was only using the label my mobo's manual has listed for that header, but rest assured I have only been using one at a time. I believe I should have said "LED_Cn"?

MORE importantly, those two both are PLAIN RGB (4-pin) headers, and that's the wrong type! You should be connecting ONE cable from a mobo 3-pin D_LEDn header (it has two of these) to the Controller's 3-pin ARGB input port on the bottom.

I'm not sure if I was clear in my original post, but I did try connecting to the D_LED1/D_LED2 header (one of those, not both), and they are 3-pin, but it still didn't work. Sorry, I'm not sure if you're referring to a different header entirely (as you can tell I'm still really new to this).

Near each of those D_LEDn headers also there is a pin-and-jumper set called DLED_V_SWn to be used to set the header to output signals in the 12V or 5 V format. USE the 5-VDC setting becasue that's what your system needs. (The 12 V setting is for another ARGB system not commonly used.)

Thanks for pointing this out! I didn't realize that setting was there. I'll take a look at that. Just to make sure I fully understand, it's possible that not switching to 5V could be the reason my LEDs aren't working? I just wanted to be clear on that since the intake fans, which are connected to the same controller as the unlit exhaust fans, are working.

Thanks again for your patience. I really appreciate it.

 

[Paperdoc]

Setting the voltage jumper for the D_LEDn headers wrong might cause them not to work. More importantly, it could even damage the Controller. BUT this would apply to the Controller entirely and ALL its lighting devices, not just to some. So, do check that the jumper is set correctly, but if the lights on some fans are working properly and changing patterns as expected, there has been no permanent damage, clearly.

Don't forget there appear to be three things you must do to get the mob's ARGB signals to take over control of the Controller box. One is to connect to the correct mobo header and Controller port, as you have done. The other is to set the Controller (using 2nd button from the top) to use the ARGB (3-pin port) input, and not the plain RGB (4-pin) port as input. Plus, as I speculated, you MIGHT have to disconnect the cable to the USB2 port to NOT feed it signals from that source. But again, if some of your lights ARE working properly, then this also must be set correctly already.

Now, let me be sure I understand. You have the LIGHTING cables from two rad fans plus the AIO system pump unit connected to three output ports of the Controller, and ALL are doing exactly what you expect of them, right? That usually means that various moving multi-colour patterns are being displayed. Then you have a set of three MF120R ARGB fans connected to the fourth Controller output by using a 3-output ARGB Splitter, but these three ALL are NOT lighting at all. Right? If that is correct, I can suggest five things to try.
1. Check the three non-lighting fans to be SURE they are of the 3-pin ARGB type. Cooler Master also sells a very similar fan type that has the 4-pin plain RGB light system in them. That type will NOT work with the Controller you have.
2. Check the 3-output Splitter. A 4-pin Splitter (has FOUR pins on each output and four holes in its female input connector that goes to a Controller output) CAN be used with some modification for what you are doing, but it requires both changing the pin details and ensuring that the right pins are plugged into the right holes - that is, that the two connectors you join are oriented correctly. So, do you really have a THREE-pin Splitter in which all of the input and output connectors have the (4-1) pin arrangement - that is, space for 4 pins in a line, but missing one pin)?
3. Take one of the fans with WORKING lights and re-connect it to the other output of the Controller to verify that that last output really is working properly.
4. Next, take that working light unit and use the 3-output Splitter to make the connection for it. Try out each of the 3 outputs. Do ALL of them make the know-good fan light work as expected? This checks the Splitter itself. When done, reconnect the known-good fan to its original Controller port.
5. If all that works, let's check the three MF120R ARGB fans' lights singly. ONE at a time, plug one fan's lighting cable into one output of the Splitter (which itself is plugged into the last controller port). Then try the second by itself, and then the third. This will test whether each fan's lights works. If they all do, try combinations of only two fan lights. Lastly try all three again.

I hope that somewhere along that sequence you will find a failure that helps point to the source of your problem.