• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo vs Noctua D14

yes i know, the D14 is the king of air cooler, lol~

but due to the sheer size of it, i am thinking about getting the 212 evo instead because i am not only looking to do mild overclocking, and this so far seemed like a sweet spot between size and performance.

Couple questions if anyone could help me out~

1) how is the thermal compound that comes with it? the D14 comes with the Noctua compound which i think is pretty decent right? how about this one? worth using or need to buy a separate tube?

2) How is the noise? especially compared to the D14?

3) how much of a temp difference compared to D14?

cheers~ PS, the cpu i am planning is i5-4670k or i7-4770k, only plan to do some mild overclocking like 4.2-4.3ish, case would be Fractal Define R4
 
4.2-4.3 maybe be tough with only a 212 EVO. It's Haswell we're talking about, it overclocks even worse than Ivy Bridge and 4.3 was considered the maximum a 212 EVO could handle on Ivy Bridge.

I would recommend a Thermalright HR-02 Macho. I know a few people who use it in the Define R4, it fits fine, stays quieter than 212 EVO and cools quite a bit better.

1) the thermal compound is fine; buying paste separately would only make it more expensive, which means that for the same price you'd be better off with a better cooler to begin with
2 & 3) http://www.anandtech.com/show/6830/...s-from-noctua-silverstone-and-cooler-master/4
 
Why are you wedded to the idea of an air cooler?

Good question. I've googled Corsair water cooler leak, and apparently they do sometimes happen. Obviously the mess of dealing with a leak is very scary to me.

secondly, i've been told that the closed loop water coolers tend to be noisy if their fans are turned up in order to match the cooling of a D14 for instance.

Any comments?
 
I went from push/pull on a kuhler 620 to a D14 with PWM fans.
Same temps, more or less, DH14 much quieter. And a lot more expensive.

I think Noctua makes a smaller air cooler that is well thought of as well.
 
Good question. I've googled Corsair water cooler leak, and apparently they do sometimes happen. Obviously the mess of dealing with a leak is very scary to me.

secondly, i've been told that the closed loop water coolers tend to be noisy if their fans are turned up in order to match the cooling of a D14 for instance.

Any comments?
I strongly suspect that if a Corsair water cooler did leak it is because the person installing it was a bit rough with it trying to bend it into position.

The second point is unfortunately true. I exchanged the standard fans on my Corsair H100i for two Noctua NF-F12 fans.

The watercooler does have the advantage however of placing the weight of the business end where it belongs - attached to the case. If you have a heavy air cooler attached to your motherboard then there is a chance that if you are moving the computer and you drop it inadvertently then the heavy air cooler will break your motherboard.

The cooling efficacy of an air cooler is only as good as the ventilation of your case. In a poorly ventilated case you can end up just circulating ever warmer air.
 
I strongly suspect that if a Corsair water cooler did leak it is because the person installing it was a bit rough with it trying to bend it into position.

The second point is unfortunately true. I exchanged the standard fans on my Corsair H100i for two Noctua NF-F12 fans.

The watercooler does have the advantage however of placing the weight of the business end where it belongs - attached to the case. If you have a heavy air cooler attached to your motherboard then there is a chance that if you are moving the computer and you drop it inadvertently then the heavy air cooler will break your motherboard.

The cooling efficacy of an air cooler is only as good as the ventilation of your case. In a poorly ventilated case you can end up just circulating ever warmer air.

haha Ya dont get me wrong , i know probably 95% of corsair users out there isnt leaking, but it does happen, haha, and i tend to be unlucky...

As for moving around, the same could happen to a water cooler right? during movement, if there is uncessary strain on the plugs somehow, it increases the chance of leaking right?
 
haha Ya dont get me wrong , i know probably 95% of corsair users out there isnt leaking, but it does happen, haha, and i tend to be unlucky...

As for moving around, the same could happen to a water cooler right? during movement, if there is uncessary strain on the plugs somehow, it increases the chance of leaking right?
It's more like in the region of 99.99+% that aren't leaking.

The answer to that would be a categorical NO,

Almost the full weight of the watercooler is carried by the case, i.e. the radiator. The only thing attached to the CPU is the pump and you can basically toss your case around as much as you like, that is in no way going to damage anything.
 
Last edited:
It's more like in the region of 99.99+% that aren't leaking.

The answer to that would be a categorical NO,

Almost the full weight of the watercooler is carried by the case, i.e. the radiator. The only thing attached to the CPU is the pump and you can basically toss your case around as much as you like, that is in no way going to damage anything.

o boy, u are slowly convincing me to buy a water cooler!

do they need to be refilled? I saw in the product sheet that Corsairs its maintenance free
 
212 is the best price/performance/noise air cooler available but you have to maximize its potential with its direct touch heatpipes. While delidding is optimal, since the pipes on it would not all come into contact with the die the lid must remain and getting rid of the crud Intel uses under the IHS is the way to go. Which is what I did with my Hyper 212 and 4670k. Delidding is easy as pie with the right tool. This'll be fine until I get the custom H2O loop.

As far as the noise goes, it is very quiet though I can hear the ticking I attribute to the PWM at lower RPM but only if I put my head next to the case which I don't do normally.

If the fan is too annoying, I scored one of those Cougar fans with a MIR making it cheap and it is dead silent at lower speeds and comes with rubber mounts. Used as an intake fan it moves some air without being annoying.
 
Last edited:
212 is the best price/performance/noise air cooler available but you have to maximize its potential with its direct touch heatpipes. While delidding is optimal, since the pipes on it would not all come into contact with the die the lid must remain and getting rid of the crud Intel uses under the IHS is the way to go. Which is what I did with my Hyper 212 and 4670k. Delidding is easy as pie with the right tool. This'll be fine until I get the custom H2O loop.

As far as the noise goes, it is very quiet though I can hear the ticking I attribute to the PWM at lower RPM but only if I put my head next to the case which I don't do normally.

If the fan is too annoying, I scored one of those Cougar fans with a MIR making it cheap and it is dead silent at lower speeds and comes with rubber mounts. Used as an intake fan it moves some air without being annoying.

delidding sounds too risky @_@ how much of a temp diff would i observe? from my research its 4-5
 
What I find interesting is I use to just post in this forum....
I presently have over 100+ air coolers.
Some things have changed and some things never change....
One that has changed is for the most part there is no one super fantastic Thermal paste. Nowadays almost all coolers are shipped with a descent paste that will do the job and work for a very long time.
One thing that has never changed is you always have people trying to get a few more degrees cooling by sanding and straightening and trying to allow for more contact than just installing the cooler out of the box!

Say you manage to get that 2 or 3 degree difference.......what then??
Is it worth the trouble and possibly even later down the line realizing that you made a huge mistake altering the cooler.....

Have fun.....oh and one more thing.....technically just because cooler A tested better than cooler B on several sites..that does not mean that cooler A is better.
there are a huge amount of variables that are unique to each individuals circumstances.

Peace!!
 
What I find interesting is I use to just post in this forum....
I presently have over 100+ air coolers.
Some things have changed and some things never change....
One that has changed is for the most part there is no one super fantastic Thermal paste. Nowadays almost all coolers are shipped with a descent paste that will do the job and work for a very long time.
One thing that has never changed is you always have people trying to get a few more degrees cooling by sanding and straightening and trying to allow for more contact than just installing the cooler out of the box!

Say you manage to get that 2 or 3 degree difference.......what then??
Is it worth the trouble and possibly even later down the line realizing that you made a huge mistake altering the cooler.....

Have fun.....oh and one more thing.....technically just because cooler A tested better than cooler B on several sites..that does not mean that cooler A is better.
there are a huge amount of variables that are unique to each individuals circumstances.

Peace!!

So Zalman and Cooler master all ship with decent enough paste that doesn't require purchasing a Arctic Silver on the side?
 
delidding sounds too risky @ how much of a temp diff would i observe? from my research its 4-5
Normally it is anywhere from 2-10 degrees but Intel is either using extra crappy stuff with Haswell or the sealant is too thick and is preventing enough pressure onto the die and as a result a lot of users are seeing 20 degree drops under load. Sorry I went straight for the TIM reapplication so I don't have before temps. I always modify the IHS on my CPU's because they hinder heat transfer aside from air coolers with direct touch heatpipes. The paper thin razors I linkied are the safest way because as long as you don't bend the blade or cant it at too high of an angle, which IME with Intel chips since the 775 with the sloped protruding lip doesn't happen because it guides the blade right under it, there is little risk. Just start at the corners and rock it in then go for the flat edges. I did my Haswell in about 40 seconds on lunchbreak.
 
So Zalman and Cooler master all ship with decent enough paste that doesn't require purchasing a Arctic Silver on the side?
It has been my experience that all the major heat sink manufacturers......Zalman....ThermalRight...Cooler Master.....Spire.....Corsair....Tuniq...noctua...Scythe...

They all ship a real descent Thermal paste with their heatsink.
In fact truth be told Arctic Silver is hugely over rated and unless you are going to do some extreme over clocking and even then I would still use what is shipped with the heatsink.

Let me ask you a question -- What good is it to ship a heatsink with crappy thermal paste?? Yet that use to be the case many years ago.
 
The U14 is better, but you pay for it.

I'm using the 212 Evo on a 4770K and am honestly a bit disappointed in the performance. I'll probably replace it with a better air cooler at some point since my case can't fit any of the worthwhile CLC water systems.
 
Back
Top