Water cooling page up see sig and clear view server project page see link
clear view server project
-sponge
clear view server project
-sponge
May I chime in here?
To answer your questions, for the MCW30 specifically, the best replacement barbs touse are either the D-Tek barbs or the metal Swiftech ones. You may also use the Danger Den barbs as well. The D-Tek barbs have the best finish and quality IMO.
As far as fans, assuming that you are budget oriented since you are using a MCR320, the most cost effective would be Yate Loon SLs (low speed/low noise or medium speed/managable noise) from www.petrastechshop.com. Beware that not all Yate Loons are made equal, so buy only from that shop. They are ulytra cheap at $16 for four fans.
Otherwise, there are other great fans, but they cost as much as $25 each. I hesitent to spell it all out without understanding your preference for airflow vs. noise.
To answer your questions, for the MCW30 specifically, the best replacement barbs touse are either the D-Tek barbs or the metal Swiftech ones. You may also use the Danger Den barbs as well. The D-Tek barbs have the best finish and quality IMO.
As far as fans, assuming that you are budget oriented since you are using a MCR320, the most cost effective would be Yate Loon SLs (low speed/low noise or medium speed/managable noise) from www.petrastechshop.com. Beware that not all Yate Loons are made equal, so buy only from that shop. They are ulytra cheap at $16 for four fans.
Otherwise, there are other great fans, but they cost as much as $25 each. I hesitent to spell it all out without understanding your preference for airflow vs. noise.
- Sep 28, 2005
- 21,080
- 3,582
- 126
overtigten on a crappy barb lead to the oring slipping which lead to it leaking. :T
Bad or poor oring in block which was overlooked can crack and also cause leaking.
Dont ever assume things will go absolutely perfect. Murphy's Law is probably the most powerful law on the universe!
SanAce
Ultra Kaze
Zalman F3's
in order of my favorates. :T
If i remember correctly werent you in love with PAPST?
Well I don't know the term PAPST but IanY is correect I want air flow with low noise I have purchased yateloons from SVC.com are the equivalent to the ones offered from petras? Well I bought 1/2in EK barbs bad choice?
-sponge
-sponge
I like everything Aigomorla quoted:
San Ace 1101: they cost $19 to $22 each. The best
Scythe Ultra Kaze: never tried those but their specs are nice. About $10 each
Zalmans: great fans when silenced with their resistors. Otherwise, a touch noisy but fabulous air flow. Love these.
I like the Papst 4412 FGML. They are very hard to get (more like impossible, unless you go through industrial channels, and costs $22 to $25 each, discounted at $18 to $20 sometimes. Papst is old school industrial, bulletproof and quiet. They can get very expensive. Some models sell for as much as $35 each fan.
Regarding the EK barbs on the MCW30. EK barbs are fabulous. However, they can be outright dangerous around Swiftech barbs. However, there is a quick fix. The problem is in the rubber O-ring. Do not use the o-ring supplied with the EK barb because they are expressedly not made to be used with Swiftech equipment. Logically, you should use Swiftech brabs with Swiftech blocks, and EK barbs with EK blocks. Oh well.
Take out the o-rings from your nylon/plastic Swiftech barbs. Slip those on your new EK barbs. You will see that you absolutely need the Swiftech o-rings to seal the connection at the Swiftech MCW30 block. Otherwise, it may not leak, or it may leak, or it may leak down the road. This is dangerous.
You can either retain the EK o-rings as well (which I would prefer) or discard the EK o-rings in favor of the Swiftech o-rings. It really doesn't matter that much. The key point is that the Swiftech o-ring gets used to seal up any potential leak hazard.
Next time, don't use EK barbs with anything other than EK equipment.
Regarding Yate Loons.
Sorry.. the Yate Loons at Petras are different from all other Yate Loons sold everywhere else, whether SVC, sidewinder, jab-tech, Frozencpu, performance pcs.. any other store.
I myself do not actively shop at Petras, actually do not shop there period, because I am on the east coast.
The Yate SLs at Petras have more curved blades, versus the other Yate SLs sold elsewhere with straighter blades. The Petra Yates are superior fans because of higher radiator air pressure and higher levels of flow per unit noise. Ignore the paper specs (otherwise ThermalTake is the champion). The proof is in the actual practical application, and Vapor at XS has proven the superiority of and the structural differences in Petra's Yates.
Let this be noticed by all here.
Part 2 of Vapor's Review.. warning.. its very comprehensive
http://www.xtremesystems.org/f...howthread.php?t=170224
Part 1 of Vapor's Review
http://www.xtremesystems.org/f...howthread.php?t=137832
Bottom Line: See A Trend ? Now, would you buy a Yate Loon from anyone other than Petra? {I don't support Petra, I don't shop there, and I don't know him from Adam}
Yate Loon D12SH-12 Curved blade from PTS - This is what Petras stocks mostly...it's a very good fan, especially for the price. Especially on the radiator. The 12V and 11V numbers are out-of-line with the expected and with what others experience and I can hear noticeable extraneous noise at those two voltages...probably something wrong with my fan specifically. I still like it too... Like most fans, it improved SLIGHTLY over its 0-hour test numbers.
Yate Loon D12SH-12 Straight blade from PTS - This is what Petras stocks occasionally...it's a very good fan, especially for the price. Especially on the radiator. Mine made no extraneous noises....it's SLIGHTLY better than the curved blade variant on the radiator, but SLIGHTLY worse in open air. I call it a draw overall. Like most fans, it improved SLIGHTLY over its 0-hour test numbers.
Yate Loon D12SH-12 Straight blade NOT from PTS - This is the D12SH-12 available from every place not named Petras Tech Shop. They DO use different suppliers and this fan IS different. It has different internals, scales differently with voltage and noticeably deteriorated from its 0-hour performance. It makes some noises I don't want my fans making: mainly light thuds and clicks. In fact, all but one non-PTS Yate Loon made extraneous noise. Oh, it also doesn't perform that well...look at the graphs.
Yate Loon D12SM-12 Curved blade from PTS - This is what Petras stocks mostly...it's a very good fan, especially for the price. Especially on the radiator. It's not as good as its ratings (56CFM vs. 70CFM rated) but overall the performance is very solid. Like most fans, it improved SLIGHTLY over its 0-hour test numbers. I really like this fan.
Yate Loon D12SM-12 Curved blade from PTS - Yes, exact same fan from the medium speed fan post....see that reference. It's a great fan, even if it is sleeve bearing.
Yate Loon D12SL-12 Blue frame and LED not from PTS - This is the darker of the two varieties from places like Jab-Tech. Like other non-PTS Yate Loons, it performed poorly and differently from PTS varieties. Internals and characteristics differed too. Not impressed with this fan. Considering a better fan for the same price is available from Petras, this fan should be avoided.
Yate Loon D12SL-12 clear frame and blue LED not from PTS - This is the lighter of the two varieties from places like Jab-Tech. Like other non-PTS Yate Loons, it performed poorly and differently from PTS varieties. Internals and characteristics differed too. Not impressed with this fan. Exhibited noticeable excitation as well. Considering a better fan for the same price is available from Petras, this fan should be avoided.
Yate Loon D12SL-12 Blue frame and LED from PTS - This is the translucent blue framed SL from PTS...its a 1200RPM variant because Yate Loon says higher RPM versions perform poorly due to material differences. (the previous two are higher RPM versions...hint hint). This fan performs pretty well but is incapable of being 'silent'....I suspect that this is due to the materials used. This is pretty nice LED fan.
Yate Loon D12BL-12 not from PTS - This is a ball bearing version of the D12SL...only available from places like Jab-Tech. Like other non-PTS Yate Loons, it performed poorly and differently from PTS varieties. Internals and characteristics differed too. This fan flat out sucks.
Yate Loon D12SL-12 All-Orange (not from PTS) - This is an all-orange version of the D12SL-12. I did not get it from PTS, though it was the only non-PTS Yate that I could not visually tell apart from the PTS fans. It also performed fairly well...although it had problems becoming 'silent.' Overall a confusing fan....it performed pretty well and very unlike its fellow non-PTS fans. Considering every other YL not sold from PTS did not test well AT ALL, I'd probably avoid it in case it was a fluke.
San Ace 1101: they cost $19 to $22 each. The best
Scythe Ultra Kaze: never tried those but their specs are nice. About $10 each
Zalmans: great fans when silenced with their resistors. Otherwise, a touch noisy but fabulous air flow. Love these.
I like the Papst 4412 FGML. They are very hard to get (more like impossible, unless you go through industrial channels, and costs $22 to $25 each, discounted at $18 to $20 sometimes. Papst is old school industrial, bulletproof and quiet. They can get very expensive. Some models sell for as much as $35 each fan.
Regarding the EK barbs on the MCW30. EK barbs are fabulous. However, they can be outright dangerous around Swiftech barbs. However, there is a quick fix. The problem is in the rubber O-ring. Do not use the o-ring supplied with the EK barb because they are expressedly not made to be used with Swiftech equipment. Logically, you should use Swiftech brabs with Swiftech blocks, and EK barbs with EK blocks. Oh well.
Take out the o-rings from your nylon/plastic Swiftech barbs. Slip those on your new EK barbs. You will see that you absolutely need the Swiftech o-rings to seal the connection at the Swiftech MCW30 block. Otherwise, it may not leak, or it may leak, or it may leak down the road. This is dangerous.
You can either retain the EK o-rings as well (which I would prefer) or discard the EK o-rings in favor of the Swiftech o-rings. It really doesn't matter that much. The key point is that the Swiftech o-ring gets used to seal up any potential leak hazard.
Next time, don't use EK barbs with anything other than EK equipment.
Regarding Yate Loons.
Sorry.. the Yate Loons at Petras are different from all other Yate Loons sold everywhere else, whether SVC, sidewinder, jab-tech, Frozencpu, performance pcs.. any other store.
I myself do not actively shop at Petras, actually do not shop there period, because I am on the east coast.
The Yate SLs at Petras have more curved blades, versus the other Yate SLs sold elsewhere with straighter blades. The Petra Yates are superior fans because of higher radiator air pressure and higher levels of flow per unit noise. Ignore the paper specs (otherwise ThermalTake is the champion). The proof is in the actual practical application, and Vapor at XS has proven the superiority of and the structural differences in Petra's Yates.
Let this be noticed by all here.
Part 2 of Vapor's Review.. warning.. its very comprehensive
http://www.xtremesystems.org/f...howthread.php?t=170224
Part 1 of Vapor's Review
http://www.xtremesystems.org/f...howthread.php?t=137832
Bottom Line: See A Trend ? Now, would you buy a Yate Loon from anyone other than Petra? {I don't support Petra, I don't shop there, and I don't know him from Adam}
Yate Loon D12SH-12 Curved blade from PTS - This is what Petras stocks mostly...it's a very good fan, especially for the price. Especially on the radiator. The 12V and 11V numbers are out-of-line with the expected and with what others experience and I can hear noticeable extraneous noise at those two voltages...probably something wrong with my fan specifically. I still like it too... Like most fans, it improved SLIGHTLY over its 0-hour test numbers.
Yate Loon D12SH-12 Straight blade from PTS - This is what Petras stocks occasionally...it's a very good fan, especially for the price. Especially on the radiator. Mine made no extraneous noises....it's SLIGHTLY better than the curved blade variant on the radiator, but SLIGHTLY worse in open air. I call it a draw overall. Like most fans, it improved SLIGHTLY over its 0-hour test numbers.
Yate Loon D12SH-12 Straight blade NOT from PTS - This is the D12SH-12 available from every place not named Petras Tech Shop. They DO use different suppliers and this fan IS different. It has different internals, scales differently with voltage and noticeably deteriorated from its 0-hour performance. It makes some noises I don't want my fans making: mainly light thuds and clicks. In fact, all but one non-PTS Yate Loon made extraneous noise. Oh, it also doesn't perform that well...look at the graphs.
Yate Loon D12SM-12 Curved blade from PTS - This is what Petras stocks mostly...it's a very good fan, especially for the price. Especially on the radiator. It's not as good as its ratings (56CFM vs. 70CFM rated) but overall the performance is very solid. Like most fans, it improved SLIGHTLY over its 0-hour test numbers. I really like this fan.
Yate Loon D12SM-12 Curved blade from PTS - Yes, exact same fan from the medium speed fan post....see that reference. It's a great fan, even if it is sleeve bearing.
Yate Loon D12SL-12 Blue frame and LED not from PTS - This is the darker of the two varieties from places like Jab-Tech. Like other non-PTS Yate Loons, it performed poorly and differently from PTS varieties. Internals and characteristics differed too. Not impressed with this fan. Considering a better fan for the same price is available from Petras, this fan should be avoided.
Yate Loon D12SL-12 clear frame and blue LED not from PTS - This is the lighter of the two varieties from places like Jab-Tech. Like other non-PTS Yate Loons, it performed poorly and differently from PTS varieties. Internals and characteristics differed too. Not impressed with this fan. Exhibited noticeable excitation as well. Considering a better fan for the same price is available from Petras, this fan should be avoided.
Yate Loon D12SL-12 Blue frame and LED from PTS - This is the translucent blue framed SL from PTS...its a 1200RPM variant because Yate Loon says higher RPM versions perform poorly due to material differences. (the previous two are higher RPM versions...hint hint). This fan performs pretty well but is incapable of being 'silent'....I suspect that this is due to the materials used. This is pretty nice LED fan.
Yate Loon D12BL-12 not from PTS - This is a ball bearing version of the D12SL...only available from places like Jab-Tech. Like other non-PTS Yate Loons, it performed poorly and differently from PTS varieties. Internals and characteristics differed too. This fan flat out sucks.
Yate Loon D12SL-12 All-Orange (not from PTS) - This is an all-orange version of the D12SL-12. I did not get it from PTS, though it was the only non-PTS Yate that I could not visually tell apart from the PTS fans. It also performed fairly well...although it had problems becoming 'silent.' Overall a confusing fan....it performed pretty well and very unlike its fellow non-PTS fans. Considering every other YL not sold from PTS did not test well AT ALL, I'd probably avoid it in case it was a fluke.
More of my two cents.
As far as my experience goes, every "crappy" cheap plastic barb from any manufacturer has sealed extremely well for me. Tubing that's slipped on is next to impossible to remove without cutting off. ***That is the point*** They don't leak.
I have held sexy barbs from D-tek, Danger Den, Alphacool and others, yanked on the tube hard.. and guess what, they slip off. Great for maintaining loops. Dangerous for leak safety.
My view is that the dangerous ones are the metals ones. Of course, the metal ones look better. I myself have no regard for appearances and so I don't care.
Just be careful when someone sells you a bill of goods that barbs are so much better because they are metal. Sometimes, that's just a bunch of hooey.
As far as my experience goes, every "crappy" cheap plastic barb from any manufacturer has sealed extremely well for me. Tubing that's slipped on is next to impossible to remove without cutting off. ***That is the point*** They don't leak.
I have held sexy barbs from D-tek, Danger Den, Alphacool and others, yanked on the tube hard.. and guess what, they slip off. Great for maintaining loops. Dangerous for leak safety.
My view is that the dangerous ones are the metals ones. Of course, the metal ones look better. I myself have no regard for appearances and so I don't care.
Just be careful when someone sells you a bill of goods that barbs are so much better because they are metal. Sometimes, that's just a bunch of hooey.
Wow IanY thanks for the comprehensive education in water/fan lore!. Yes Aig mentioned that I needed to use the swiftec o-rings with the ones installed on the EK barbs. If I had known before what you related here I would have purchased swiftec metal barbs for the chipset cooler. Out of curiosity what cpu are you currently cooling with your water setup and your loaded and unloaded temps?
Thanks again,
-sponge
Thanks again,
-sponge
My temps. My temps are lousy 
At least compared to Aigomorla's.
QX9650 at 1.3v (slightly under) and 4.0 Ghz (400 x 10). No, I don't push my cpu all the way. Load temps in the 52 to 56 range. Idle in the 39 to 43 range. Ambient is 22.
I'm not on the cutting edge in terms of equipment, unlike Aigomorla.
Also have a QX6800, a QX6700, a Q6600, a FX62 and a FX60 all under water lol
At least compared to Aigomorla's.QX9650 at 1.3v (slightly under) and 4.0 Ghz (400 x 10). No, I don't push my cpu all the way. Load temps in the 52 to 56 range. Idle in the 39 to 43 range. Ambient is 22.
I'm not on the cutting edge in terms of equipment, unlike Aigomorla.
Also have a QX6800, a QX6700, a Q6600, a FX62 and a FX60 all under water lol
Well not too shabby my Q6600 oced to 3.6ghz is running 63c loaded 1.48vcore your 10c cooler at load idle temps bounce between 37c and 39c
-sponge
-sponge
- Sep 28, 2005
- 21,080
- 3,582
- 126
taking down one of my water rigs to replace it with a passive. And its not cutting edge, but its very high end. :T
Sammy:
http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_1079.jpg
Aigomorla,
Are you trying to out-modest me ?
And what the... is Sammy... wow.. you are being really brave there I wanted to do it to my twin opteron Tyan machine but wisely passed on the idea.
Are you trying to out-modest me ?
And what the... is Sammy... wow.. you are being really brave there
I wanted to do it to my twin opteron Tyan machine but wisely passed on the idea.
- Sep 28, 2005
- 21,080
- 3,582
- 126
Originally posted by: IanY
Aigomorla,
Are you trying to out-modest me ?
And what the... is Sammy... wow.. you are being really brave there
AHAHAHAHAHHAHA..
no never... :T
Sammy is a SMP dual Sossman system. Im gonna replace it with the power hungry quad system i have which only does torrent and file serve.
So that sammy is expected to draw somewhere around 100-110W off the wall fully loaded.
The 2 cpu's are Yonah class Xeon labeled processors. Yes its a dual laptop processor system board hence why i can get away with HR-05 IFX and not TRUE's.
Fully passive system in works.
Yeah but the last two peices are going to be awhile I kind of bought a few things ahead of schedual I'll be bugging you again ina few moths or so....
-sponge
I'll be bugging you again ina few moths or so....-sponge
WoodButcher
Platinum Member
- Mar 10, 2001
- 2,158
- 0
- 76
@ IanY, re; barbs and o-rings, any thoughts on the Bitspower brand? this is what I used and so far so good.
http://www.performance-pcs.com...=393&products_id=23694
http://www.performance-pcs.com...=393&products_id=23694
- Sep 28, 2005
- 21,080
- 3,582
- 126
OEM for DD Fatboy's which is what im hearing.
And yes those are suposidely the TOP barbs martin has tested.
However gonna take one hell of a barb for me to switch off my koolance compression.
WoodButcher
Platinum Member
- Mar 10, 2001
- 2,158
- 0
- 76
Oh yeah, they are nice, biggest ID I've seen yet and the least "clean up" I've ever done. I use a countersink to taper or flare the ID at both ends of all the barbs I use but I was wondering what the concensus was on the o- rings, I used the bitspower rings and on a flat piece of lexan like my res the flange covering the ring still had room to go before bottoming out.
This statement was what raised my curiosity-
This statement was what raised my curiosity-
HardWarrior
Diamond Member
- Jan 26, 2004
- 4,400
- 23
- 81
The last thing I'd plumb in my loop is Home Depot vinyl, not as long as there's 3603, 2705 and silver to be had. :Q
HardWarrior
Diamond Member
- Jan 26, 2004
- 4,400
- 23
- 81
What qualifies as (super) expensive is like most things, relative. 3603 is still worth my $ due to its all around properties. You might give 2705 a try too, if you can use some great anti-kink action and a low plasticizer composition.
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