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Question Considering build around Intel i7 10700F

balloonshark

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The i7 10700F is on sale for $230 on Amazon today. (see hot deals forum)

Is this the best bang for the buck CPU at this time and do you think it will change anytime soon as in are prices going to drop on certain CPUs soon? How much does a decent MB cost, what features do I need and do any have future compatibility? This CPU is not overclockable correct?

I'm thinking about using my current case, PSU and 2 WD HDDs. I'll also be using my R9 Fury until GPU prices drop. That means I need the CPU, MB, 16 or 32GB RAM (I'm assuming my DDR4-2400 RAM isn't usable?) and a SSD. Would that be around $600 and does that sound like a smart buy? Would my Thermalright Macho Rev.B Cooler work or do I need another cooler?

I'll mainly be using the machine for surfing, gaming and occasionally photo editing. I'm not a bleeding edge gamer and wait for game prices to drop before buying.

Any suggestions are welcome. I bought the CPU so I need to know if I should cancel the order or not.
 
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UsandThem

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I doubt this CPU will go lower than this.

H470 and Z490 motherboards roughly start around $150, and there are numerous good choices in the $150 - $210 range. It will just come down to what you need on the motherboard (rear USB ports, etc.). While this CPU can't be overclocked like an unlocked K CPU, you can practically get this locked CPU to run just like you could with the 10700K (See this detailed review).

The CPU cooler will work, and you likely could reuse the RAM you have (but you will get better performance with a DDR4 2933 on H470 chipset - DDR4 3200 on Z490 chipset).
 
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balloonshark

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I doubt this CPU will go lower than this.

H470 and Z490 motherboards roughly start around $150, and there are numerous good choices in the $150 - $210 range. It will just come down to what you need on the motherboard (rear USB ports, etc.). While this CPU can't be overclocked like an unlocked K CPU, you can practically get this locked CPU to run just like you could with the 10700K (See this detailed review).

The CPU cooler will work, and you likely could reuse the RAM you have (but you will get better performance with a DDR4 2933 on H470 chipset - DDR4 3200 on Z490 chipset).
Thank you! I just remembered that my case only has USB 3.0 front ports so I would need a different case for the new tech. No idea if it would be worth it though. I would also need a windows license and I don't think my cooler will work unless I'm missing something. I think their Macho rev. C cooller would work but I have rev. B. http://thermalright.com/product/macho-rev-b/
 

UsandThem

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According to Thermalright's website, it's compatible with LGA 1151, and from what I understand, the LGA 1200 socket is the same dimensions around the socket for coolers. So it should work and use the same mounting hardware.
 

balloonshark

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According to Thermalright's website, it's compatible with LGA 1151, and from what I understand, the LGA 1200 socket is the same dimensions around the socket for coolers. So it should work and use the same mounting hardware.
Thanks. That is good to hear.

Since the CPU has already shipped I'll be moving forward with the build. I don't follow hardware trends so any suggestions or deals will be appreciated. If the CPU/system will benefit from faster RAM speeds and it's worth the extra MB and RAM costs let's go that way.

Haves:

Intel i7-10700F
SeaSonic G Series SSR-650RM 650W PSU
SAPPHIRE NITRO Radeon R9 Fury 4GB GPU
2- 1TB and 2TB HDD's. (I could omit one of the 1TB drives since it's empty.)

Needs:

Motherboard
16 or 32GB RAM
250 or 500GB SSD or NVME drive
Case?
Thermal compound (something that lasts AR5?)
 

UsandThem

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If I was building, I'd get the Asus Prime Z490-A. There are other options a little cheaper, but that would be one I would buy.

As far as compound, I generally use Noctua paste, but it looks like the NT-H2 is out of stock at most places, so I would instead go for something like Arctic MX-4.

Don't get a 250 GB SSD, as they are lower performing compared to the larger models. Something like a 500GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus, WD SN750, or the HK Hynix P31 would likely be the ones I would decided between.

RAM - I'd likely go with a Crucial DDR4 -3200 CAS16 16GB kit (2 x 8GB), and I would use their RAM finder and find a kit that was certified to work with the motherboard I went with.

Cases are a personal choice, so you'll just have to look and see what works for you and the area it will be in.
 
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OlyAR15

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IMO, there is no point getting a Z-series MB for that chip. A good B or H series MB is fine. Just pick the one that has the features you need. In terms of RAM, if you have to ask, then you don't need 32MB. You can even re-use your existing RAM. You will leave a few % performance, but from what you describe as your uses, it will most likely be negligible.

I would skip the HDD and go all SSD. Even a SATA SSD will be much faster. Spend the money you save from your RAM and MB and put it into the drives.

Honestly, it sounds like you are just throwing money away with this upgrade. Are you sure you need a faster CPU? Have you confirmed that you are hitting the limits of your current CPU? Did you try OCing it? To me, the weakest part of your current system (assuming that is the one in your sig) is the use of the HDD. So it makes absolutely no sense to upgrade the other parts and keep the drives. You probably could save a lot of money by just replacing your mechanical drives with faster SSDs, reformat and re-install Windows and your apps, and forego upgrading the rest of the system.
 
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UsandThem

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IMO, there is no point getting a Z-series MB for that chip. A good B or H series MB is fine.
The problem with going with a non-Z motherboard is the person would be capped at DDR4 2933 as the fastest RAM supported using an i7 CPU.

Plus, the next step down 'H' motherboard series is in extremely short supply, so the one's that are available aren't much cheaper than the lower cost Z motherboards. If a person doesn't need a ton of features, the Z motherboards start around $150ish.
 

OlyAR15

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Oct 23, 2014
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The problem with going with a non-Z motherboard is the person would be capped at DDR4 2933 as the fastest RAM supported using an i7 CPU.

Plus, the next step down 'H' motherboard series is in extremely short supply, so the one's that are available aren't much cheaper than the lower cost Z motherboards. If a person doesn't need a ton of features, the Z motherboards start around $150ish.
From his reported use case, he would lose negligible performance going with the slower RAM. He can even use his current RAM and save the money of buying new RAM in the first place.

There is also the H410 and B460 boards that are really cheap. They work fine with non-OC chips.
 

balloonshark

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Thanks a bunch UsandThem.

Does this look good everyone? (* Note I haven't shopped around for better prices)? https://pcpartpicker.com/list/22FsBc

Also, is a 2x16 kit better than getting 2 separate 16 modules? I can get the same RAM for a little cheaper that way. It's only $5 though. Also, I browse using a sandbox and use a RAMdisk for cache. Just browsing on this PC is using 9GB of my 16GB ram. Would 32GB be worth it since I normally game with my browser open? Prices aren't likely to go much lower I would assume correct?

2 x https://www.newegg.com/ballistix-16gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820164188?Item=N82E16820164188

Do I want Arctic MX-4 2019 edition? I might also go with the SK hynix Gold P31 since it's only $10 more from Amazon if it's worth it.
 
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balloonshark

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@OlyAR15

I already own the HDD's and they store my games, system images and other data. This PC does have a small SSD for Windows. I don't mind games taking longer to load since I don't really game online. Plus I don't completely trust SSDs like I do HDDs since my first SSD, a Samsung 840 EVO up and died on me.

You're right that I don't really need this upgrade. I've always wanted an i7 and this was my chance while I have a little money sitting around. This will most likely be a long term upgrade for me and I can pick up a $200 to $300 GPU once prices settle. I can also sell my current CPU, MB and RAM to make up for some of the cost.
 

UsandThem

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From his reported use case, he would lose negligible performance going with the slower RAM. He can even use his current RAM and save the money of buying new RAM in the first place.

There is also the H410 and B460 boards that are really cheap. They work fine with non-OC chips.
I pointed out he could reuse his current memory, but from all the tests I've seen over the years, a person can leave quite a bit of performance on the table if they go with lower speed RAM. As far as the H410 or B460 motherboards, sure they cost less but most are very stripped down compared to H470 or Z490 motherboards, and I'd rather spend a few extra bucks to get something that I'm not making sacrifices for. But like I mentioned in my recommendations, those are components I would buy if this was my build. The OP can always go with less expensive options if they work for their needs.

Thanks a bunch UsandThem.

Does this look good everyone? (* Note I haven't shopped around for better prices)? https://pcpartpicker.com/list/22FsBc

Also, is a 2x16 kit better than getting 2 separate 16 modules? I can get the same RAM for a little cheaper that way. It's only $5 though. Also, I browse using a sandbox and use a RAMdisk for cache. Just browsing on this PC is using 9GB of my 16GB ram. Would 32GB be worth it since I normally game with my browser open? Prices aren't likely to go much lower I would assume correct?

2 x https://www.newegg.com/ballistix-16gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820164188?Item=N82E16820164188

Do I want Arctic MX-4 2019 edition? I might also go with the SK hynix Gold P31 since it's only $10 more from Amazon if it's worth it.
I generally buy my RAM in kits so I know they work together. Sometimes modules change over time, and you can get different revisions which could cause issues (rare, but I just like preventing potential issues when building).

Most people don't have a need for 32GB of RAM, so my advice would be to just get a 16GB kit. You can always get an additional kit if that's enough for your use, but I doubt you will need to do that. The NVMe drive is insanely fast, so you really don't even need to mess around with a RAM disk.

As far as the paste, their latest version is the MX-4 2019 revision, so that's yes that's what I would get.
 

blckgrffn

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100% agree you should get at minimum a 500GB boot drive if not 1TB just because you need enough flash to get what NVME can offer.

A WD Black or Crucial P5 at 500GB is OK, but WD Blue or P2 should be 1TB minimum due to QLC flash.

I mean, you can get a $55 WD Black 500GB or something like a $80 1TB P2. Both leave performance on the table compared to their larger capacity brethren but imo that’s the minimum to get.

The 256GB drives tend to be severely cut down, if they have a decent controller and flash then the basically cost the same as a decent 500GB drive.

About the board - if they were available I would get a decent H board around $120. There is usually a lot value there.

But...

You seem like you get nice things and keep them a long time. I would splurge on the board (and the drive!) a bit. A solid Z board should be available around $200 and should also accept a RKL upgrade, I feel those are fated to be really cheap at some point. Get some solid 3200 lower latency memory (also already mentioned) and let it rip! There is a lot value and performance available in that configuration. If it were me and I wanted 32 GB I would get two 16GB sticks to leave the other banks open, but that’s personal preference. I have no qualms with 32 GB in a normal PC, I’ve been doing this more frequently especially when decent kits have been under $100. I love me some Chrome tabs and they love some memory 👀

Like I said, you get mileage out of what you buy. Get some good stuff :)
 

balloonshark

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The CPU showed up today :)

Edit: I went ahead and placed an order. Here's what the entire build will look like. I splurged on a couple of things. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/86x2fP

If anything looks wrong let me know ASAP.

I guess I'll use my existing case unless there is an issue with it.
 
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Shmee

Memory and Storage, Graphics Cards
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Looks good to me. There have been deals on 970 Evo 1TB SSDs for $129 recently, which is great for a good 1TB NVMe, but still a bit more than you paid for the 500 GB 970 Evo Plus. If you need more SSD storage, you can always pick up a cheap 1TB or greater SATA SSD later.
 
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blckgrffn

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Looks good to me. There have been deals on 970 Evo 1TB SSDs for $129 recently, which is great for a good 1TB NVMe, but still a bit more than you paid for the 500 GB 970 Evo Plus. If you need more SSD storage, you can always pick up a cheap 1TB or greater SATA SSD later.
Heck yeah, at least with that drive @ 500GB you are getting good performance.

If he wants later - and as they get cheaper - he can add an additional NVME drive as well and many times fast read/slow very high sustained write NVME drives are cheaper than SATA. If things get really crazy, he could upgrade to RKL and have three NVME drives, I think. I am not sure if all three slots can really be active at the same time, it's a little hard to know for sure right now because without RKL that third slot nearest the CPU Is dead.

I am pretty cool with that build, man. I hope you get a big seat of the pants boost with it, I think you will.
 

balloonshark

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Thanks. I'm pretty excited about this build. It will be the best PC I've owned by far. Hopefully GPU prices drop sooner than later.

Here is an 10700K combo with the MB I bought for $480. It's only $40 more than I paid. https://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails?ItemList=Combo.4223325

The above deal has a $5 coupon for the CPU to bring the combo down to $475. If I knew I could sell the 10700f and mb for what I paid I would go for it but I don't think anyone will bite by the time I add the taxes I paid plus shipping. Oh well. I'm not giving up that much performance with my chip. The igpu would have been nice in case my GPU up and dies.

Edit: I decided to go with the 10700K combo. Now waiting for the parts to arrive.

 
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balloonshark

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I'm assembling this now 10700k build. On the motherboard, do I need both the 8 pin cpu power plug and 4 pin? If I do I think I have one 8 pin for the cpu and 2x4pin that can make an 8 pin plug. I assume it's a plug plug as that was the one I had powering my 6600k.
 
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I'm assembling this now 10700k build. On the motherboard, do I need both the 8 pin cpu power plug and 4 pin? If I do I think I have one 8 pin for the cpu and 2x4pin that can make an 8 pin plug. I assume it's a plug plug as that was the one I had powering my 6600k.
not sure my guess is it is not required unless over clocking.
assuming you have the extra connector I would connect it.
Yes it is an odd connection, make sure you don’t confuse it with the video card 8 pin. Per my googling in 2018 it is possible to mix them up and it can cause a big problem.
 
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balloonshark

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not sure my guess is it is not required unless over clocking.
assuming you have the extra connector I would connect it.
Yes it is an odd connection, make sure you don’t confuse it with the video card 8 pin. Per my googling in 2018 it is possible to mix them up and it can cause a big problem.
Thanks for your reply. My PSU is the 650w on this page. https://seasonic.com/g-series
You can scroll down to the bottom to see connector types and counts. Right now I have the fixed 2x4pin connected (not sure if that's what they call the 8/4). There is a separate modular 8 pin cpu.

My MB manual on page 2-10 or 2.1.7. seems to show hooking it up with an 8 pin or both and 8 and 4. The only 4 I have is the 2x4 fixed cable which I have hooked to the MB as an 8pin to the CPU.

I also can't get this thing to get into the bios consistently when powering up so I have more troubleshooting to do.
 

blckgrffn

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There have been other questions about this in the past, but myself and others have had no issues with only hooking up the primary 8 pin connector for 10 series CPUs.

Obviously hooking them all up is preferable, but the 24 pin and 8 pin really should be sufficient unless you are really pushing the clocks on the K series CPUs.
 
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balloonshark

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There have been other questions about this in the past, but myself and others have had no issues with only hooking up the primary 8 pin connector for 10 series CPUs.

Obviously hooking them all up is preferable, but the 24 pin and 8 pin really should be sufficient unless you are really pushing the clocks on the K series CPUs.
Thanks. That's kind of what my searches were saying but I wasn't familiar with the sources. I don't plan on OCing this thing and if it would only be enough for what a large air cooler could handle.
 

balloonshark

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Would anything else be causing a malfunction in a memory slot besides it being DOA? I need to use B2 and A2 memory slots but I can't get anything to work in A2 and get a yellow MB RAM warning light. I've tried one stick in B2 and it works. I've tried leaving a stick in B2 and moving the A2 stick to B1 and it goes into the BIOS normally. If I try moving the stick in B2 into A2 and leaving the RAM in the middle B1 slot it won't go into BIOS and get the same yellow RAM warning light on the MB. I can't use slot A1 because my CPU fan blocks it.
 

blckgrffn

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Yikes - what does your manual say about the slots to use and in which order? Usually they seem to know now that one closest to the CPU is a bit dicey in terms of priority use.

There may be some stick configurations that really mess with its ability to boot though, that would not surprise me. Only disappoint me ;)
 

balloonshark

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Yikes - what does your manual say about the slots to use and in which order? Usually they seem to know now that one closest to the CPU is a bit dicey in terms of priority use.

There may be some stick configurations that really mess with its ability to boot though, that would not surprise me. Only disappoint me ;)
A2 with one stick. A2 and B2 with 2 sticks. My A2 isn't working best that I can tell. I think I even tried my 2400 stick from my old rig.
 

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